Lace Fingerless Gloves Knitting Pattern: Cashmere or Mohair (PDF Pattern)
There is something quietly magical about a pair of lace fingerless gloves. They sit at the intersection of practicality and artistry — keeping your hands warm enough for a chilly morning without sacrificing the dexterity you need to type, hold a coffee cup, or turn the pages of a book. When you knit them in cashmere or mohair, that magic intensifies. The yarn itself becomes part of the story: the whisper-soft drape of cashmere, the luminous halo of mohair, the way either fiber catches light and transforms a simple lace stitch into something that looks impossibly delicate and impossibly elegant.
This lace fingerless gloves knitting pattern is designed to help you create that experience at home, whether you are a confident intermediate knitter looking for a satisfying weekend project or an adventurous beginner who has already worked a few basic patterns and wants to try something with a little more depth. The PDF format means you can download it, print it, annotate it with your own notes, and refer to it at the table, on the couch, or anywhere your knitting basket happens to travel.
Let’s talk about everything you need to know before casting on: yarn choices, needle sizes, the anatomy of the lace pattern itself, sizing, finishing techniques, and a few tips that will make the process feel effortless.
Why Cashmere and Mohair Are the Perfect Yarns for Lace Fingerless Gloves
The yarn you choose for a lace project does an enormous amount of work. Lace knitting depends on the contrast between the stitches themselves and the negative space created by yarnovers and decreases. A yarn that is too dense or too textured will fill in those holes and flatten the design. A yarn with the right qualities will let the lace breathe, hold its shape after blocking, and feel extraordinary against the skin.
Cashmere and mohair both meet those requirements, though they do it in different ways, and understanding those differences will help you choose the right fiber for your vision.
Cashmere is a luxurious fiber combed from the undercoat of cashmere goats. It has an incredibly fine, smooth texture with a natural sheen that makes lace stitches appear crisp and well-defined. Because cashmere has very little halo, the individual stitch structures — the yarnovers, the k2togs, the SSKs, the central double decreases — read with remarkable clarity. A cashmere lace fingerless glove has a refined, almost architectural quality. The finished object looks precise and intentional. Cashmere also has a beautiful weight and drape; it sits against the skin like something poured rather than knitted, and it warms without bulk. The trade-off is price. True cashmere is expensive, which is one reason so many knitters look for a cashmere blend — something in the range of 50% to 80% cashmere mixed with silk, merino, or nylon — to get that characteristic softness and handle at a more accessible cost.
Mohair comes from the Angora goat and offers a completely different visual effect. The long, silky fibers that make up mohair have a tendency to bloom outward from the yarn, creating what knitters call a halo: a soft, ethereal cloud of fiber that surrounds each stitch. Lace knitted in mohair — particularly in a lace-weight or kid mohair blend — has a dreamy, romantic quality that is unlike any other textile. The individual stitch structures are slightly softened by that halo, which gives the fabric a more impressionistic look. Kid mohair, which comes from young Angora goats, produces the finest and softest halo of all, and it is almost always blended with silk to add tensile strength and a beautiful luster. The most beloved construction for mohair lace is the classic “mohair held with a strand of lace-weight silk” approach, and many commercial yarns are specifically designed for this pairing.
For this pattern, you can use either fiber family, and the instructions include notes on how your gauge and finished dimensions might differ slightly depending on your choice. A lace fingerless glove knitted in cashmere will have a more structured silhouette; one knitted in mohair will have a softer, more fluid drape. Both are stunning. Both are worthy of the hours you will spend knitting them.
Materials You Will Need
Before you begin, gather everything so that your knitting sessions are uninterrupted and enjoyable.
For the yarn, you will need approximately 200 to 250 yards of lace-weight or fingering-weight cashmere, cashmere blend, kid mohair blend (such as a 70/30 kid mohair and silk), or mohair-silk held double with a separate strand of silk or lace-weight yarn. The exact yardage will depend on your hand size and tension, but a single skein of most lace-weight yarns in this weight range will comfortably complete both gloves with a small amount left over.
For needles, you will need a set of double-pointed needles or a short circular needle in US size 1 (2.25mm) or US size 2 (2.75mm). Most knitters working in cashmere find a US 1 gives a beautifully firm, defined lace fabric, while mohair typically benefits from a slightly larger needle — US 2 or even US 3 — to let the halo develop fully and keep the lace from looking crowded. Always swatch before committing to a needle size.
Additional materials include a set of stitch markers (at least six, though having more on hand never hurts), a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, a cable needle or spare double-pointed needle if you choose to include a small cabled accent in the cuff variation, a tape measure, and a bowl of cool water and rust-proof blocking pins or a blocking mat for finishing.
Gauge
For the cashmere version: 32 stitches and 44 rounds over 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US 1 needles, after blocking.
For the mohair version: 28 stitches and 40 rounds over 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US 2 needles, after blocking.
Gauge matters more in accessories than many knitters expect. Even a half-stitch difference per inch can translate to a glove that is either too tight to pull over the knuckles or so loose it slides down the hand. Knit a swatch, wash and block it the way you will wash and block your finished gloves, and measure carefully.
Sizing
This pattern is written for three sizes: Small (to fit a hand circumference of approximately 6.5 to 7 inches), Medium (7 to 7.75 inches), and Large (7.75 to 8.5 inches). Instructions for each size are presented in the pattern with Medium as the default and Small and Large noted in brackets where changes occur.
The finished circumference of the glove at the hand is approximately 6.25 (7, 7.75) inches with roughly 1 inch of negative ease, which gives a snug fit that holds the lace flat and shows off the pattern.
Understanding the Lace Pattern
The lace motif used in this pattern is a variation of a classic leaf-and-eyelet design, worked in a 12-stitch repeat over 16 rounds. It is entirely achievable for any knitter who understands the basic mechanics of yarnovers and decreases, and the PDF pattern includes both written row-by-row instructions and a charted version so that visual learners and chart readers can work in whatever way feels most natural.
The lace panel runs along the back of the hand — the dorsal side — while the palm is worked in plain stockinette, which keeps the glove comfortable to wear and practical to knit. If you want lace on both sides, the pattern includes a note on how to mirror the motif for the palm panel, though the plain palm version is recommended for first-time lace glove knitters.
The 16-round lace repeat creates a single full leaf motif, and depending on the length of your finished glove (which you can adjust to your preference), you will work one to two full repeats on the back of the hand. The cuff is worked in a simple twisted-rib variation that grips the wrist softly without squeezing, and the pattern offers a second cuff option with a small four-stitch cable that frames the lace panel beautifully if you want a slightly more ornate look.
The thumb gusset is worked in plain stockinette with paired increases every third round, creating a wedge-shaped gusset that accommodates the base of the thumb naturally. Once the thumb stitches are placed on hold, you close the gap, continue the hand, and finish with a simple bind-off above the knuckles. The thumb itself is worked as a short tube and bound off in a stretchy method so it does not cut into the skin.
Step-by-Step Construction Overview
The gloves are knitted in the round from the cuff upward, which is the most intuitive construction for fingerless gloves and results in the fewest seams to sew. Here is the broad sequence so you know what to expect before you dig into the detailed instructions in the PDF.
You begin by casting on using a long-tail cast-on or a German twisted cast-on, both of which produce an elastic edge well-suited to a cuff that needs to slide over the wrist. The cuff is worked in twisted rib for approximately 2 inches, or until the cuff reaches your preferred length. From there you transition into the body of the glove, establishing your lace panel marker positions and beginning the charted motif.
The thumb gusset begins after the first complete repeat of the lace chart and continues until you have the correct number of gusset stitches for your size. At that point you place the gusset stitches on a length of waste yarn or a stitch holder and cast on the appropriate number of bridge stitches to close the gap at the side of the hand. You then continue working the lace panel until the hand reaches just below the knuckles — approximately half an inch below where the fingers diverge. The PDF pattern includes a note about how to measure this correctly on your own hand so you can customize the length.
The top bind-off is worked in a stretchy method — the Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy bind-off works beautifully for this — and then you return to the held thumb stitches, pick up the bridge stitches, and work the thumb tube for about an inch before binding off in the same stretchy method.
Blocking: The Step That Transforms Everything
If you have never blocked a lace project before, you are about to experience one of the most satisfying transformations in all of knitting. Lace knitting straight off the needles tends to look cramped and unimpressive — the yarnovers are squished together, the decreases are close, and the negative space that defines lace is barely visible. Blocking changes all of that.
To block your cashmere or mohair lace fingerless gloves, soak them in cool water with a small drop of gentle wool wash for about 20 minutes. Do not agitate or wring them; simply let the fiber absorb the water until it is thoroughly saturated. Press gently against the side of the bowl to remove excess water, then roll the gloves in a clean dry towel and press again. Lay them flat on your blocking mat and gently stretch them to your target measurements, pinning the lace points open if you want a more dramatic lace effect. Leave them flat until completely dry.
Cashmere opens up beautifully with a gentle block, and the lace stitches will settle into precise, graceful definition. Mohair responds to blocking by relaxing and blossoming; the halo softens further and the lace takes on that romantic, slightly blurred quality that makes mohair so distinctive. In both cases, the finished gloves will look dramatically more polished and intentional after blocking than before it.
Tips for Knitting with Cashmere and Mohair
Cashmere is generally straightforward to work with, but it is a fragile fiber at fine weights. Avoid tugging or dropping your work in progress — cashmere can develop weak spots if it is handled roughly. Use smooth wooden or bamboo needles if you find the yarn slipping too easily on metal, and take care when frogging (unraveling) if you need to correct a mistake, as cashmere does not always frog cleanly.
Mohair requires a different kind of patience. The halo that makes it beautiful also makes it nearly impossible to rip back once the fiber has bloomed and locked into itself. The cardinal rule of knitting with mohair is to get it right the first time. Work slowly, read your chart carefully before you begin each round, and count your stitches at the end of every pattern row. If you do need to frog mohair, working from a lifeline — a length of smooth thread run through all live stitches at the end of a completed repeat — is the safest way to give yourself an emergency retreat point without losing your entire project.
For both fibers, strong consistent lighting makes a real difference. Fine yarn in deep or jewel-toned colors can be surprisingly difficult to read stitch by stitch, especially on smaller needles. Knit in good natural light when you can, or use a bright daylight lamp in the evening.
Yarn Suggestions
Some of the most beloved yarns for this kind of project include Habu Textiles A-1 Cashmere, which is a 100% cashmere available in a fine lace weight with extraordinary drape; Jade Sapphire Lacey Lamb (a cashmere-silk blend); Rowan Kidsilk Haze, which is perhaps the most iconic kid mohair and silk yarn in the market and an absolute dream for lace; and Drops Kid-Silk, a more budget-friendly alternative that performs beautifully for lace work. Any lace or fingering weight yarn from a quality cashmere or mohair source will work well with this pattern, provided you swatch for gauge and adjust your needle size accordingly.
What Is Included in the PDF Pattern
The downloadable PDF pattern includes full written instructions for all three sizes, a charted version of the lace panel with a symbol key, notes on yarn substitution and fiber selection, a gauge swatch guide, instructions for both the plain ribbed cuff and the cabled cuff variation, step-by-step thumb gusset instructions, blocking and finishing notes, and a small troubleshooting section for common lace questions. The layout is clean and printer-friendly, formatted so that the chart and the written instructions can be printed on opposite pages and referred to simultaneously.
A Few Final Thoughts
Lace fingerless gloves in cashmere or mohair are one of those projects that feel like a gift to yourself — meditative to knit, beautiful to look at while they are in progress, and deeply satisfying to wear or to give. They work up relatively quickly compared to larger lace projects, and the construction is simple enough that the lace pattern itself becomes the focus: a place to slow down, pay attention, and enjoy the particular pleasure of watching something intricate emerge from a single strand of extraordinary yarn.
Whether you choose the cool clarity of cashmere or the romantic halo of mohair, this pattern gives you a framework to create something that is entirely your own. Change the colorway. Lengthen the cuff. Add the cable detail or leave it plain. Block them dramatically open or let them settle into a softer drape. The PDF is your starting point, not your ceiling.
Cast on, and enjoy every stitch.
