Lace-Back Fingerless Gloves: A Complete Knitting Pattern with Three Lace Charts
There is something deeply satisfying about a pair of fingerless gloves that manages to be both practical and beautiful at the same time. Fingerless gloves keep your palms and wrists warm while leaving your fingers free to type, write, scroll, and do all the everyday things that full mittens make awkward. But when you add lace to the back of the hand, the whole project transforms from a simple accessory into something genuinely lovely — the kind of thing people notice and ask about, the kind of thing you find yourself making over and over again for gifts.
This pattern gives you everything you need to knit a pair of lace-back fingerless gloves from the cast-on edge all the way to the fingertip bind-off. It includes three different lace charts so you can choose the design that suits your yarn weight, your skill level, or simply your mood. Chart A is a delicate traveling eyelet vine, perfect for fingering weight yarn and confident beginners. Chart B is a classic diamond lace motif, a timeless choice that works beautifully in a smooth DK weight. Chart C is an intricate leaf panel, the most advanced of the three, and it rewards the extra attention with stunning results.
Whether you’re knitting these for yourself or making a set as a gift, this pattern walks you through every step in plain, clear language. Gauge swatching, thumb gusset shaping, picking up stitches for the thumb, finishing the cuff — it’s all here. Let’s get started.
Materials and Tools
Before you cast on, gather everything you’ll need. Having your materials ready before you sit down to knit saves a lot of interruption.
Yarn: The right yarn depends on which lace chart you plan to use. For Chart A (the traveling eyelet vine), choose a smooth fingering weight yarn with good stitch definition. Something with a bit of silk or a high-twist single will show the eyelets beautifully. You’ll need approximately 200–250 yards per pair. For Chart B (the diamond lace), a smooth DK weight in any fiber works well, though wool or a wool blend will give you the best stitch definition. Plan for 150–200 yards. For Chart C (the leaf panel), fingering weight is again recommended, but the yarn must have excellent stitch definition — a high-twist plied wool is ideal. Plan for 200–250 yards.
Needles: US size 1 (2.25mm) for fingering weight Charts A and C, or US size 3 (3.25mm) for DK weight Chart B. Use double-pointed needles, a short circular for magic loop, or two circulars — whichever method you prefer for small circumference knitting.
Notions: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers (at least four), a cable needle or spare dpn for the leaf panel in Chart C, waste yarn or a stitch holder for the thumb, and small scissors.
Gauge
Getting gauge right on gloves matters more than on almost any other project, because the fit needs to be fairly precise. A glove that’s too loose will bunch and shift; one that’s too tight will be uncomfortable and may not fit at all.
For fingering weight (Charts A and C): 34 stitches and 44 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, blocked.
For DK weight (Chart B): 26 stitches and 36 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, blocked.
Knit a swatch in the round — a small tube works well — and wash and block it before measuring. The lace sections of the back of the hand will stretch when blocked, which is part of the appeal, but the palm and thumb are worked in plain stockinette, and that’s where your gauge determines fit.
Sizing
This pattern is written in three sizes: Small (S), Medium (M), and Large (L).
Hand circumference: S = 6.5 inches, M = 7.5 inches, L = 8.5 inches.
Finished glove circumference (slightly stretched): S = 6.25 inches, M = 7.25 inches, L = 8.25 inches.
Finished length, cuff to fingertip edge: approximately 8.5 inches for all sizes, with the cuff accounting for 2.5 inches and the hand section accounting for 6 inches. The thumb extends approximately 1.5 inches above the gusset join.
Numbers in the pattern are presented as S (M, L). When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.
Abbreviations
k — knit
p — purl
k2tog — knit two stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
yo — yarn over
sl1 — slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in back
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
m1L — make one left-leaning increase
m1R — make one right-leaning increase
cn — cable needle
C4F — slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in front, k2, k2 from cn
C4B — slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in back, k2, k2 from cn
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
rnd(s) — round(s)
The Cuff
Both gloves are worked the same way from the cast-on up to the point where you begin the lace panel on the back of the hand.
Using your preferred stretchy cast-on (long-tail is a reliable choice), cast on 56 (64, 72) stitches. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a marker for the beginning of the round.
Work 2×2 ribbing (k2, p2) for 20 rounds, or until the cuff measures approximately 2.5 inches. The ribbing creates a snug, stretchy band that holds the glove in place on your wrist without being constricting.
Setting Up the Hand
After the cuff, you’ll establish the basic structure of the hand. The palm is worked in stockinette throughout. The lace panel runs up the back of the hand. A thumb gusset is worked on the palm side.
Rnd 1 (Setup Round): K28 (32, 36) for the palm half, pm, then k28 (32, 36) for the back-of-hand half.
The first marker you placed at the cast-on is the beginning-of-round marker. The second marker you just placed divides the palm from the back of the hand.
On the next round, you’ll begin the lace chart of your choice on the back-of-hand section. Read through the appropriate chart section before continuing.
Lace Chart A: Traveling Eyelet Vine
This 14-stitch, 8-row repeat creates a graceful vine of eyelets that climbs diagonally across the back of the hand, occasionally branching to suggest leaves. It’s rhythmic and relatively easy to memorize after the first two repeats, making it an excellent choice if you’re new to lace knitting in the round.
The chart is worked over the center 14 stitches of the back-of-hand section. Work the remaining stitches on either side of it in stockinette.
Chart A (14 stitches, 8-round repeat):
Round 1: k2, yo, k2tog, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k3tog, yo
Round 2: Knit all stitches
Round 3: k1, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1
Round 4: Knit all stitches
Round 5: yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k3, yo, k3tog, yo, k2, ssk, yo
Round 6: Knit all stitches
Round 7: k1, yo, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k1
Round 8: Knit all stitches
Repeat Rounds 1–8 for the length of the hand section. The vine naturally travels across the panel, giving the glove a lovely organic movement.
Lace Chart B: Diamond Lace
This is the most classic of the three charts, and probably the most universally flattering. The diamond shape is symmetrical and structured, which makes it pair beautifully with the curves of the hand. It’s worked over a 16-stitch panel with a 16-round repeat, and while it takes a bit longer to memorize than Chart A, the pattern logic is very clear once you see how the diamonds form.
Chart B (16 stitches, 16-round repeat):
Round 1: k7, yo, ssk, k7
Round 2 and all even rounds: Knit all stitches
Round 3: k6, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k5
Round 5: k5, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k4
Round 7: k4, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k3
Round 9: k3, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k2
Round 11: k4, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k3
Round 13: k5, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k4
Round 15: k6, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k5
Repeat Rounds 1–16, adjusting the surrounding stockinette stitches so the panel sits centered on the back of the hand. The diamonds will stack one above the other as you work upward, creating a clean lattice effect.
Lace Chart C: Leaf Panel
This is the most ambitious of the three charts, and it’s worth every bit of extra concentration. The leaf panel uses cables alongside lace to create raised, three-dimensional leaves with an open lacework background. This chart is 20 stitches wide and has a 24-round repeat. It is appropriate for knitters who are comfortable with both basic cables and lace, and who don’t mind consulting a chart frequently — at least until the motif becomes familiar.
Chart C (20 stitches, 24-round repeat):
Round 1: k2, C4B, k2, yo, ssk, k2, C4F, k2
Round 2 and all even rounds: Knit all stitches
Round 3: k1, C4B, k1, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k1, C4F, k1
Round 5: C4B, k2, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2, C4F
Round 7: k3, yo, k2tog, k1, C4F, k1, ssk, yo, k3
Round 9: k4, yo, k2tog, C4F, ssk, yo, k4
Round 11: k3, yo, k2tog, k6, ssk, yo, k3
Round 13: k2, yo, k2tog, k2, C4B, k2, ssk, yo, k2
Round 15: k1, yo, k2tog, k3, C4B, k3, ssk, yo, k1
Round 17: yo, k2tog, k4, C4B, k4, ssk, yo
Round 19: k1, ssk, yo, k2, C4F, k2, yo, k2tog, k1
Round 21: k2, ssk, yo, C4F, yo, k2tog, k2
Round 23: k3, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, k3
Repeat Rounds 1–24. The leaf shape builds slowly but becomes unmistakable around Round 9, which tends to be the most satisfying moment in this chart. Block the finished gloves firmly to fully open the lace and define the cable ribs.
Thumb Gusset
The thumb gusset begins after you’ve worked 8 rounds of the lace pattern on the back of the hand (or after the cuff, if you prefer to place it earlier). It’s worked entirely on the palm side of the glove.
Setup Round: K1, pm (gusset marker 1), m1L, k1, m1R, pm (gusset marker 2), knit to end of palm stitches, sm, work lace chart across back-of-hand stitches.
You now have 3 gusset stitches between your two gusset markers.
Increase Round: Knit to gusset marker 1, sm, m1L, knit to gusset marker 2, m1R, sm, knit to end of palm, sm, work lace chart.
Plain Round: Work all stitches without increases, keeping lace chart in pattern.
Alternate the Increase Round with 2 Plain Rounds until you have 15 (17, 19) stitches between the gusset markers.
After the final increase round, work 3 plain rounds even.
Placing the Thumb on Hold: On the next round, work to gusset marker 1, remove marker, slip the gusset stitches onto waste yarn, remove gusset marker 2, cast on 3 stitches using the backward loop method over the gap, and continue in pattern to the end of the round. You’ve rejoined the hand into a smooth tube and your thumb stitches are waiting to be picked up later.
Upper Hand
Continue working in the round, with stockinette on the palm and your chosen lace chart on the back of the hand, until the glove reaches just below your knuckles — roughly 1.5 to 2 inches above the thumb gap. Try the glove on as you go; everyone’s hand is slightly different, and knitting a custom fit is one of the pleasures of making your own accessories.
Fingertip Edging
When the glove reaches just below your knuckles, work one final round of the lace chart. Then work 8 rounds of 2×2 ribbing (k2, p2) across all stitches to create a neat, stretchy edge at the top of the glove.
Bind off using a stretchy method. A tubular bind-off works beautifully here and gives a very professional finish, but a simple k2tog-style stretchy bind-off is also excellent.
The Thumb
Return to the gusset stitches on your waste yarn. Pick them up onto your needles, then pick up and knit 5 stitches from the cast-on stitches across the thumb gap. You’ll have 20 (22, 24) stitches total.
Work in the round in stockinette for 12 rounds, or until the thumb reaches just below your first knuckle. Work 6 rounds of k2, p2 ribbing, then bind off with the same stretchy method you used for the fingertip edge.
Finishing
Weave in all ends carefully with a tapestry needle, working the yarn through the backs of the stitches for at least an inch in each direction so nothing pulls loose with wear. Pay particular attention to the ends at the base of the thumb, which experience the most movement and stress.
Wet block both gloves together. Fill a small basin with cool water and a drop of wool wash, submerge the gloves, and let them soak for 15 minutes. Gently squeeze out the water — don’t wring or twist — and roll them in a clean towel. Lay them flat on a blocking mat and use blocking wires or pins to open the lace panels to their full width. The transformation that happens during blocking is always remarkable; the stitches relax, the lace blooms open, and the pattern becomes crisp and clear.
Allow them to dry completely before wearing or gifting.
A Few Tips for Success
Reading lace charts in the round is a skill that gets easier with practice. On every right-side row (and since you’re working in the round, every row is a right-side row), read the chart from right to left. Mark your place in the chart with a sticky note or a magnetic chart holder to avoid losing your row.
If you’re a tight knitter, consider going up one needle size for the lace sections. Lace needs a bit of room to breathe, and needles that are too small can make the yarn overs difficult to work and leave the lace looking pinched.
Using a lifeline — a smooth piece of cotton thread run through all live stitches at the
