June Bunnies Shawl – Free Pattern
There is something quietly magical about a handknit shawl. It wraps around your shoulders like a soft embrace, carries the story of every stitch you placed, and becomes one of those pieces you reach for again and again without quite knowing why. The June Bunnies Shawl is exactly that kind of project — charming, wearable, and filled with the kind of whimsy that makes knitting genuinely joyful. Whether you are an intermediate knitter looking for a rewarding weekend project or someone who has been wanting to try a shaped shawl for the first time, this pattern has something to offer you.
This post walks you through the full free pattern for the June Bunnies Shawl, along with notes on yarn selection, shaping, the bunny motif, and finishing. Pull up a comfortable chair, grab a cup of something warm, and let’s knit something beautiful together.
What Is the June Bunnies Shawl?
The June Bunnies Shawl is a crescent-shaped shawl knit from the top down, beginning with a simple garter tab cast-on and growing outward through a series of yarn-over increases. The body of the shawl is worked in a delicate lace mesh with a repeating motif border, and the lower edge features an adorable row of bunny silhouettes worked in a combination of slipped stitches and simple colorwork. The result is a shawl that feels airy and light but looks intricate and considered — the kind of thing that earns compliments every single time you wear it.
The name came about almost naturally. June is the month of long light, garden mornings, and a certain softness in the air. Bunnies, of course, are the universal symbol of gentle sweetness. Put them together in a shawl knit with a pale, warm yarn and you have something that feels like the very best kind of June day rendered in fiber.
Materials You Will Need
Before casting on, gather your materials. Having everything ready before you begin makes the knitting process smoother and more enjoyable.
Yarn: Approximately 400 to 500 yards of fingering weight yarn. The pattern works best in a single-ply or lightly plied yarn with good stitch definition, as this helps the bunny motifs read clearly. A yarn with a touch of silk or alpaca gives the finished shawl a beautiful drape, but a standard merino fingering works wonderfully too. For the bunny border, you will need a small amount — about 50 yards — of a contrasting color. Classic pairings include white or cream against a soft grey, dusty rose against oatmeal, or pale sage against ivory.
Needles: US 4 (3.5 mm) circular needles, 32 inches or longer. The long cable is important here because the shawl grows quite wide. You may also want a spare needle of the same size for the three-needle bind-off if you choose that finishing method.
Notions: Stitch markers (at least four), a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, blocking wires or blocking pins, and a spray bottle or basin for wet blocking.
Gauge: 22 stitches and 32 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch after blocking. Gauge is not critical for this shawl since the finished dimensions are flexible, but checking it will help you predict your final size. A looser gauge produces a more drapey, open fabric; a tighter gauge gives more structure.
Sizing and Finished Dimensions
The pattern as written produces a shawl approximately 60 inches wide and 22 inches deep at the center point after blocking. This is a generous, wrap-able size suitable for most adults. If you prefer a smaller shawl — something more like a neck wrap or a decorative accessory — you can stop the increases four to six rows earlier and proceed directly to the bunny border. For a larger shawl, simply continue working the body pattern for additional repeats before beginning the border section.
Abbreviations
Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used:
CO — cast on; BO — bind off; k — knit; p — purl; yo — yarn over; k2tog — knit two stitches together; ssk — slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease); sl1 — slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in back; pm — place marker; sm — slip marker; RS — right side; WS — wrong side; MC — main color; CC — contrasting color.
Pattern Notes
This shawl is worked flat, back and forth in rows, on circular needles. The circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches as the shawl grows — you are not knitting in the round.
All wrong-side rows in the body section are purled across unless otherwise noted. Markers are placed at the center spine and at each end of the shawl to guide your increases.
The bunny motifs are worked using a simple two-color stranded technique. You do not need to carry the yarn very far at any point — the bunnies are small and self-contained — so even knitters who find colorwork intimidating should find this section manageable.
When blocking, wet blocking is strongly recommended. The lace mesh in the body opens up significantly with blocking and the bunnies become much more defined. Do not skip this step.
The Pattern
Section One: Garter Tab Cast-On
The garter tab is a tidy way to begin a top-down shawl. It creates a small horizontal tab of fabric at the center back of the neck, from which you pick up stitches to begin the main body.
Using MC and the long-tail cast-on method, CO 3 stitches. Knit 12 rows (6 ridges of garter stitch). Do not turn. Rotate your work 90 degrees and pick up and knit 6 stitches along the left-hand edge of the tab (one stitch per garter ridge). Rotate 90 degrees again and pick up and knit 3 stitches from the cast-on edge. You now have 12 stitches on your needle.
Set-up row (WS): K3, pm, p2, pm, p2, pm, p2, pm, k3.
The outermost 3 stitches at each edge are your garter selvedge — knit every row. The markers divide the shawl into sections that will grow with each right-side row.
Section Two: Increase Body
All RS rows follow this increase formula: K3, sm, yo, knit to next marker, yo, sm, k1, yo, sm, knit to next marker, yo, sm, k3.
All WS rows: K3, sm, purl to last marker, sm, k3.
This adds 4 stitches every RS row — one yarn over at each side of each marker pair. Continue in this manner until you have 162 stitches total, ending with a WS row.
Section Three: Lace Mesh Body
The lace mesh section adds visual lightness and creates the airy, flowing quality that makes this shawl so wearable. It is worked over a 6-row repeat.
Row 1 (RS): K3, sm, yo, k1, yo, k2tog; repeat from to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, yo, sm, k1, yo, sm, k1, yo, k2tog; repeat from to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, yo, sm, k3.
Row 2 (WS): K3, sm, purl to last marker, sm, k3.
Row 3 (RS): K3, sm, yo, knit to next marker, yo, sm, k1, yo, sm, knit to next marker, yo, sm, k3.
Row 4 (WS): K3, sm, purl to last marker, sm, k3.
Row 5 (RS): K3, sm, yo, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, yo, sm, k1, yo, sm, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, yo, sm, k3.
Row 6 (WS): K3, sm, purl to last marker, sm, k3.
Work this 6-row lace repeat 8 times total (48 rows). You will have approximately 258 stitches after completing all repeats. End with a WS row.
Section Four: The Bunny Border
This is where the shawl becomes truly special. The bunny border is worked over 18 rows and uses both MC and CC. Read through all of the colorwork rows before beginning and have both yarns ready.
The bunnies are worked using a simple slip-stitch colorwork method for most of the motif, with a small amount of stranding at the ears. Each bunny takes approximately 14 stitches horizontally. The border begins with a plain stripe and ends with a picot or standard bind-off.
Transition Row (RS, MC): Remove all shaping markers. K3, then knit across the row without working any increases. K3. You are now working without the marker system — this section is worked flat without further shaping.
Row 1 (WS, MC): Knit across (this creates a garter ridge that separates the body from the border).
Row 2 (RS, MC): Knit across.
Row 3 (WS, MC): Knit across.
Row 4 (RS, join CC): With MC in back, k3 MC, sl1 CC, k7 MC, sl1 CC, k2 MC; repeat from across, ending k3 MC.
Row 5 (WS): With MC in front for purling, p3 MC, sl1 CC, p1 MC, sl1 CC, p5 MC, sl1 CC, p1 MC, sl1 CC; repeat from across, ending p3 MC.
Row 6 (RS): K3 MC, k1 CC, k1 MC, k1 CC, k3 MC, k1 CC, k1 MC, k1 CC, k2 MC; repeat from across, ending k3 MC.
Row 7 (WS): P2 MC, p1 CC, p3 MC, p1 CC, p5 MC, p1 CC; repeat from across, ending p2 MC.
Row 8 (RS): K1 MC, k1 CC, k5 MC, k1 CC, k5 MC, k1 CC; repeat from across, ending k1 MC.
Row 9 (WS): P1 CC, p7 MC, p1 CC, p4 MC; repeat from across, ending p1 CC. (This creates the rounded body of each bunny.)
Row 10 (RS): K1 MC, k1 CC, k5 MC, k1 CC, k5 MC, k1 CC; repeat from across, ending k1 MC.
Row 11 (WS): P2 MC, p1 CC, p3 MC, p1 CC, p6 MC; repeat from across, ending p2 MC.
Row 12 (RS): K3 MC, sl1 CC, k1 MC, sl1 CC, k3 MC, sl1 CC, k1 MC, sl1 CC, k2 MC; repeat from across, ending k3 MC.
Row 13 (WS): With MC only, purl across.
Row 14 (RS, MC): Knit across.
Row 15 (WS, MC): Knit across (second garter ridge).
Row 16 (RS, MC): Knit across.
Row 17 (WS, MC): Knit across.
Row 18 (RS, MC): Knit across. Break CC if you have not already.
You may now either bind off on the next wrong-side row using a standard bind-off, or work a picot bind-off for a delicate, decorative edge.
Picot Bind-Off: CO 2 stitches using the knitted cast-on, BO 4 stitches; repeat from to end. This creates tiny points along the lower edge that complement the bunny motifs beautifully.
Finishing
Once you have bound off, weave in all ends securely using your tapestry needle. Pay particular attention to the ends from joining the CC — tuck them in along the colorwork section so they are completely invisible from the right side.
Soak the shawl in cool water with a small amount of wool wash for 15 to 20 minutes. Gently press out excess water by rolling the shawl in a clean towel — do not wring. Lay the shawl flat on a blocking surface, pin or wire the upper edge straight, and gently open and stretch the lower edge to the full width. Pin every picot point if you used that bind-off. Allow to dry completely before removing pins. This can take 12 to 24 hours depending on your yarn and the humidity in your space.
The difference between an unblocked and blocked version of this shawl is remarkable. Blocking is what transforms a finished knitting project into a finished piece.
Yarn Substitution Notes
The June Bunnies Shawl is designed to be accessible with almost any fingering weight yarn, but a few properties will make the knitting more enjoyable and the result more beautiful. Look for a yarn that has good elasticity — this makes the lace rows easier to work and gives the finished shawl a pleasant bounce. A smooth surface will help the bunny motifs read crisp and clear. Very textured or heavily plied yarns can obscure the colorwork, so lean toward smoother constructions for your CC in particular.
If you want to emphasize the playful, springtime feel of the shawl, consider soft pastels or warm naturals. If you prefer something more sophisticated, deep jewel tones in the body with a metallic or high-contrast CC for the bunnies creates a striking effect. The shawl works at any point on the color spectrum — its structure is versatile enough to carry many different moods.
Tips for Success
A few things will make your experience with this pattern smoother. Use stitch markers that are easy to move and won’t snag your yarn — locking markers or simple loops of scrap yarn work well. Count your stitches at the end of every RS row during the increase section until you are confident in the rhythm. Lace is forgiving in many ways, but catching a missed yarn over two rows later is much easier than discovering it much further along.
When you begin the bunny border, work a loose tension. The colorwork rows tend to pull in if you knit tightly, and you want the border to lie flat and match the width of the body. If you notice the border pulling in, try going up a needle size for those rows.
Finally, trust the blocking. Lace always looks a little uncertain before it has been blocked. The mesh may look uneven, the bunnies may seem blurry, and the whole thing might feel smaller than you expect. Blocking fixes all of these things. It is not optional — it is the last step of the pattern.
Making It Your Own
One of the pleasures of a free pattern like this one is that it is genuinely yours to adapt. The lace body repeat can be lengthened or shortened to suit your yardage and preferred size. The bunny border can be replaced with a simple striped border if colorwork is not your preference, or the bunnies can be repeated twice for a deeper border. You could work the bunny motif in a single color using just slipped stitches for a subtler effect.
Some knitters have worked this shawl in a DK weight yarn on larger needles for a cozier, heavier version that works beautifully in autumn. Others have used hand-dyed yarns where the color variations in the MC create a soft, painterly effect across the lace section. The structure of the pattern supports creative interpretation, so do not be afraid to make adjustments that suit your vision.
Why Knit the June Bunnies Shawl?
There are so many knitting patterns in the world, and choosing which ones to spend your time and yarn on is a genuine decision. The June Bunnies Shawl earns a place on your needles because it grows in a satisfying way — each row is a little longer than the last, and the shawl visibly develops with every sitting. The lace is rhythmic and meditative once you have learned
