How to Knit Trimmings: A Complete Guide to Decorative Edges, Borders, and Embellishments
Knitting trimmings is one of those skills that transforms a good project into a truly polished one. Whether you’re finishing a handmade garment, decorating a blanket, or adding personality to a pillow cover, knowing how to knit trimmings opens up a world of creative possibilities. In this guide, you’ll learn everything from the basics of what knitted trimmings are to step-by-step techniques for creating beautiful borders, fringes, tassels, applied cords, and decorative edges that will elevate every piece you make.
What Are Knitted Trimmings?
Knitted trimmings are decorative elements worked in yarn that are either knitted directly onto a project or created separately and sewn or attached afterward. They include a wide range of styles: ruffled edges, picot hems, I-cord borders, seed stitch bands, lace edgings, fringes, and much more. Unlike finishing techniques that simply neaten a raw edge, trimmings are intentionally decorative. They add color, texture, dimension, and visual interest.
Trimmings have a long history in handcrafted textiles. Victorian knitters were particularly fond of intricate lace edgings on household linens and shawls. Today, modern knitters use trimmings to personalize everything from baby blankets to structured jackets. The best part is that most trimming techniques are accessible to knitters at all skill levels, and even simple methods produce results that look impressive.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Before you start, gather the right supplies. The materials you choose will depend on the type of trimming you plan to make, but here are the essentials:
Yarn: Choose a yarn that complements your main project in weight and fiber content. For delicate lace edgings, fingering or lace-weight yarn works beautifully. For chunky I-cord or fringe, bulkier yarns create more visual impact. Consider using a contrasting color for trimmings that are meant to stand out, or match your main yarn for a cohesive look.
Knitting needles: Most trimmings use the same needle size as the main project, but going down a needle size can help create a tighter, more defined edge. For I-cord, you’ll need double-pointed needles (DPNs). For attached edgings, circular needles are often helpful.
Scissors and a tapestry needle: These are essential for weaving in ends and, for separately knitted trimmings, for seaming or attaching them to your work.
Stitch markers and a row counter: These help you keep track of repeating patterns, which is especially useful in lace edgings.
How to Knit Basic Borders and Edgings
The simplest way to learn how to knit trimmings is to start with basic borders. These are worked directly on the edges of your knitting, either as you go or picked up afterward.
Garter Stitch Border
A garter stitch border is one of the most popular trimming choices because it lies flat, prevents curling, and works with almost any project. To add a garter stitch border to a stockinette piece, simply knit the first and last three to five stitches of every row. When working in the round, you’ll need to pick up stitches along the edge afterward and work several rows of garter stitch (knitting one row, purling the next when worked flat) before binding off.
This method works beautifully on scarves, blankets, and sweater fronts. The key is consistency: always keep the same number of border stitches throughout the project so the edge is even.
Seed Stitch Border
Seed stitch alternates knit and purl stitches in every row, creating a textured, bumpy surface that also lies flat and resists curling. To work a seed stitch border, alternate between knit one, purl one across the border stitches, making sure to knit the purl stitches and purl the knit stitches on the following row. The result is a more sophisticated-looking edge than garter stitch, with a lovely pebbly texture that adds visual interest without being overwhelming.
Rib Border
Ribbing, typically in a one-by-one or two-by-two pattern, is most commonly seen at the cuffs and hems of sweaters, but it makes an excellent trimming for any project where you want a stretchy, neat edge. To add ribbing, pick up stitches along the edge of your work and alternate knit and purl stitches for the desired length before binding off loosely. Use a stretchy bind-off, such as the Jenny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off, to ensure the edge doesn’t constrict.
How to Knit a Picot Hem
A picot hem is a dainty, decorative edge that creates a series of tiny points along the bottom of a piece. It’s a classic trimming choice for baby garments, delicate shawls, and feminine tops.
To work a picot hem, you’ll knit a facing (a small extra section of fabric that folds back on itself) and join it to the main piece at a row of yarn-overs that form the picot points.
Start by casting on your stitches and working a few rows in stockinette stitch for the facing. On the turning row, work across in this pattern: knit two together, then yarn over. Repeat this across the entire row. This creates a row of eyelets that will become the points of the picot edge when folded. Continue knitting for the same number of rows as the facing, then fold the facing to the wrong side along the eyelet row and seam it in place using a tapestry needle. When finished, the eyelet row creates a beautiful zigzag of small points along the hem.
How to Knit I-Cord Trim
I-cord is a narrow, tubular length of knitting that resembles a round rope or cord. It’s one of the most versatile trimmings you can learn, suitable for necklines, armholes, bag handles, button loops, and decorative borders.
To knit I-cord, you need at least two double-pointed needles. Cast on three to five stitches (three is the most common for fine cord, four or five for a chunkier look). Knit across all stitches. Without turning your work, slide the stitches to the other end of the needle. Pull the yarn firmly across the back of the stitches from left to right, then knit across again. Repeat this process, always sliding the stitches to the right-hand end without turning. After a few rows, the stitches will begin to form a tube. Pull gently to encourage the cord to take its tubular shape.
For an applied I-cord edge, which is attached directly to an existing piece, pick up one stitch from the edge of your project on each row. At the end of every row, before sliding, knit the last cord stitch together with the picked-up edge stitch. This draws the cord along the edge as you work, creating a neat, polished border that lies flat and covers raw edges beautifully.
How to Knit Lace Edgings
Lace edgings are one of the most beautiful and traditional forms of knitted trimming. They can be worked separately and attached to a project, or they can be picked up and worked directly from the edge. Lace edgings typically feature yarn-overs paired with decreases to create intricate openwork patterns.
A simple lace edging to try is the following four-row pattern worked on five stitches:
Row 1 (right side): Slip one, knit one, yarn over, knit two together, yarn over, knit one.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit across.
Row 3: Slip one, knit two, yarn over, knit two together, yarn over, knit one.
Row 4: Bind off two stitches, then knit to the end.
Repeating these four rows creates a pointed lace edging with a scalloped outer edge. Once your edging is long enough, block it gently to open up the lace pattern, and then sew or graft it to your finished piece.
Blocking is especially important for lace. Wet-blocking (soaking in cool water, pressing out excess moisture in a towel, then pinning to shape on a foam mat) opens up the yarnovers and defines the lace pattern dramatically. You’ll be amazed at how different the piece looks after blocking.
How to Knit Ruffles and Flounces
Knitted ruffles are a fun, playful trimming that adds movement and femininity to garments, bags, and home décor projects. The basic principle is simple: you use many more stitches than the edge requires, creating excess fabric that gathers and ruffles naturally.
To knit an attached ruffle, pick up stitches along the edge of your project, then increase into every stitch (or every other stitch for a more subtle ruffle) on the next row. Continue in stockinette stitch for several inches, then bind off loosely. The extra stitches cause the fabric to flare outward, creating a ruffle.
For a more dramatic effect, you can triple or even quadruple the number of stitches in the pickup row, then work only a few rows before binding off. This creates a very full, gathered frill. Choose a lightweight, smooth yarn for the most pronounced ruffle, as heavier yarns tend to droop.
How to Make Knitted Fringe
Fringe is not technically knitted in the same sense as other trimmings, but it’s a natural partner to knitting and deserves a place in any guide on the subject. Fringe adds length, movement, and texture to shawls, scarves, and blankets.
To make fringe, cut lengths of yarn about twice the desired finished length of the fringe (since it folds in half). Group two to four strands together, fold them in half, and use a crochet hook to pull the folded loop through a stitch along the edge of your piece. Thread the cut ends through the loop and pull firmly to secure. Repeat evenly across the entire edge.
For an even more decorative look, try knotting the fringe. After attaching all the fringe groups, divide each group in half and knot half of one group together with half of the neighboring group, about an inch down from the edge. You can continue knotting further down for a diamond or net pattern. Trim the ends evenly with sharp scissors when you’re finished.
How to Knit Tassels
Tassels are another classic trimming option, particularly popular on the corners of pillows and blankets, the ends of drawstrings, and the tips of hats. Making a tassel is straightforward.
Wrap yarn around a piece of cardboard that is the desired length of the finished tassel. Wrap it twenty to forty times, depending on how full you want the tassel. Slide a separate length of yarn under all the strands at the top of the cardboard and tie it tightly in a secure knot. Slide all the strands off the cardboard. Wrap another length of yarn around the bundle about a quarter of the way down from the top, winding it around several times and knotting it to create the tassel’s neck. Cut through all the loops at the bottom, then trim the ends evenly. Use the long tail from the top knot to sew the tassel onto your project.
Tips for Picking Up Stitches for Trimmings
Picking up stitches along an edge is a foundational skill for attaching most knitted trimmings, and the technique has a few nuances worth knowing.
Along a cast-on or bound-off edge, pick up one stitch for every stitch. Along a vertical (selvedge) edge, pick up approximately three stitches for every four rows, as knitting rows are shorter than they are wide. Along a curved edge, such as a neckline, pick up stitches evenly around the curve, skipping occasional stitches in the corners to avoid bunching.
Use a crochet hook or the tip of your needle to pull the working yarn through each stitch at the edge. Work from the right side of the fabric unless the pattern specifies otherwise. Distribute your pickup evenly and use stitch markers to divide the edge into sections before you begin, counting to make sure each section has the same number of pickup stitches.
Blocking and Finishing Your Trimmings
No matter which trimming you choose, finishing and blocking make an enormous difference to the final result. After completing a separately worked edging or border, weave in all ends carefully on the wrong side, threading each tail through several stitches in different directions to secure it without bulk.
If attaching a separately knitted trimming, use a tapestry needle and the mattress stitch or whipstitch to sew it in place. Match the stitch count as evenly as possible to avoid puckering or stretching.
Block your finished project, including the trimmings, together. For wool and plant fibers, wet-blocking gives the best results. For acrylic, steam-blocking with a damp cloth and a warm iron (held slightly above the surface, not pressed down) relaxes the fibers and evens out the stitches.
Combining Trimmings for Maximum Effect
Once you’re comfortable with individual trimming techniques, don’t be afraid to combine them. A shawl might have a seed stitch border along the straight edge and a lace edging along the curve. A baby blanket might combine a garter stitch border with tassels at each corner. A market bag might feature I-cord handles and a ruffle at the top.
The key to combining trimmings successfully is proportion. Choose trimmings that are scaled appropriately to the weight of your yarn and the size of your project, and make sure the colors and textures work together harmoniously. When in doubt, swatch your trimming idea before committing it to a finished piece.
Final Thoughts on How to Knit Trimmings
Learning how to knit trimmings is one of the most rewarding investments you can make in your knitting skill set. Trimmings are where a project graduates from handmade to heirloom, from functional to truly beautiful. Whether you choose the clean simplicity of an I-cord edge, the delicate charm of a picot hem, the drama of a lace border, or the playfulness of fringe and tassels, every trimming you add is a signature of care and craftsmanship.
Start with one technique that appeals to you and practice it on a small sample before applying it to a larger project. Build your repertoire gradually, and you’ll soon find that choosing and adding trimmings is one of the most enjoyable parts of the entire knitting process.
