How to Crochet To Have & To Hold Lacy Mitts: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide

If you’ve been searching for the perfect handmade accessory to add a touch of romance and elegance to any outfit, look no further than the To Have & To Hold Lacy Mitts. These stunning fingerless gloves combine delicate lacework with a practical, wearable design that works beautifully for weddings, special occasions, or simply adding a feminine flourish to everyday style. Whether you’re a confident intermediate crocheter or someone looking to stretch your skills just a little further, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know to create a pair of these gorgeous mitts from start to finish.

What Are To Have & To Hold Lacy Mitts?

The To Have & To Hold Lacy Mitts are fingerless gloves characterized by an open, airy lace pattern that drapes elegantly over the hand and wrist. The name evokes a bridal aesthetic, and it’s easy to see why — these mitts have long been a favorite among makers who want to create handmade wedding accessories or romantic gifts. However, don’t let the bridal association limit your imagination. Made in a rich burgundy, a soft blush, a classic cream, or even a bold jewel tone, these mitts can suit any wardrobe and any occasion.

The design typically features a combination of chain spaces, double crochet clusters, and shell stitches that form a repeating lace motif. The thumb gusset is worked seamlessly into the design, giving the mitts a polished, professional finish that looks far more complex than it actually is to create.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you begin, gather everything on this list so your project goes smoothly from the very first stitch.

Yarn: You’ll want a fingering weight or sport weight yarn for the most authentic lacy look. A yarn with some silk, bamboo, or linen content will add beautiful drape and sheen, which enhances the lacework. Approximately 200–300 yards per pair is typical, though the exact amount depends on hand size. Popular choices include Fingering weight merino blends or cotton-blend sock yarns, which hold stitch definition well while still feeling soft against the skin.

Hook: A 3.5mm to 4.0mm crochet hook is standard for fingering to sport weight yarn, but always check your gauge before beginning. The exact size you need will depend on your personal tension.

Notions: You’ll also need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (removable ones work best), and a measuring tape. A row counter can also be helpful when you’re working through the lace repeats.

Gauge: For most versions of this pattern, a gauge of approximately 20 stitches and 10 rows per 4 inches in the lace pattern is a good benchmark, but always swatch. Because lace opens up significantly with blocking, your pre-blocking gauge will look tighter and denser than the finished fabric.

Understanding Lace Crochet Before You Begin

If you haven’t worked much lace crochet before, taking a few minutes to understand the structure of lace patterns will make the process much less intimidating.

Lace crochet is built on negative space just as much as it is built on yarn. The open areas — formed by chain spaces and yarn overs — are intentional design elements, not mistakes. When you look at your work in progress and it seems a bit floppy or uneven, don’t panic. Lace almost always looks its best after blocking, which is the process of wetting and pinning the finished piece into shape. Blocking opens up the stitch pattern, evens out the tension, and reveals the true beauty of the design.

Lace patterns also tend to use a lot of chain stitches as the connective tissue between clusters and shells. Learning to count your chains carefully and identify the correct chain spaces to work into is one of the most valuable skills you can develop for this type of project. Go slowly at first, and use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round if you find yourself losing your place.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

Here’s a quick reference for the abbreviations you’ll encounter when working the To Have & To Hold Lacy Mitts:

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
ch-sp — chain space
sk — skip
rep — repeat
pm — place marker
yo — yarn over
dc2tog — double crochet two together (a decrease)
shell — typically 5 dc worked into the same stitch or space
V-stitch — (dc, ch 2, dc) worked into the same stitch or space

If you’re new to any of these stitches, take a few minutes to practice them on a small swatch before beginning the pattern. Being comfortable with each component stitch will make the lace repeat feel much more manageable.

Starting the Cuff

The mitts typically begin at the cuff with a foundation chain. The number of chains you start with will determine the circumference of the mitt, so you’ll want to measure your wrist before you begin.

For an average adult wrist measuring 6–7 inches around, chain 48 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring, being careful not to twist your chain. This is your foundation round.

Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), work 1 dc into each chain around, join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning ch-3. You should have 48 dc.

Round 2: Chain 1, sc in same stitch, ch 3, skip 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from to around, ending with ch 3, join with slip stitch to first sc. This creates the foundation for your lace pattern.

Round 3: Slip stitch into the first ch-3 space, chain 3, work 2 dc into the same ch-3 space, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-3 space, repeat from to around, ch 1, join with slip stitch to top of beginning ch-3.

These first few rounds establish the cuff and begin transitioning you into the lace motif. Work 2–3 more rounds of your chosen lace repeat for the cuff, keeping the tension slightly firmer here than in the hand section, which will help the mitt stay in place on the wrist without slipping.

Working the Lace Body

Once your cuff is established, you’ll transition into the main lace pattern that forms the body of the mitt. This is where the design really comes to life.

The classic lace repeat for this style of mitt is worked over a multiple of 6 stitches and looks like this:

Lace Repeat Round: Slip stitch to first ch-sp, chain 4, dc in same space (this creates your first V-stitch), ch 2, skip next ch-sp, shell of 5 dc into next ch-sp, ch 2, skip next ch-sp, V-stitch into next ch-sp, repeat from to around, ending with ch 2, skip last ch-sp, shell into last unworked ch-sp, ch 2, join with slip stitch to third chain of beginning ch-4.

Next Round: Chain 3, work 2 dc into ch-2 space of first V-stitch, ch 2, sc into center dc of next shell, ch 2, shell into ch-2 space of next V-stitch, repeat from to around, end with ch 2, sc into center dc of last shell, ch 2, join to top of ch-3.

These two rounds form your lace repeat. Work them alternately, and the pattern will begin to build in a beautiful, rhythmic way. Most versions of the To Have & To Hold Lacy Mitts work this repeat for approximately 8–10 rounds before reaching the thumb gusset, depending on how long you want the hand portion to be.

As you work, keep your tension loose and consistent. Lace patterns suffer most from tight tension, which closes up the open spaces and makes the fabric stiff rather than fluid. If you tend to crochet tightly, consider going up half a hook size.

Creating the Thumb Gusset

The thumb gusset is what separates a truly wearable fingerless mitt from a simple tube. Working it correctly ensures that your thumb can move freely and comfortably, and that the mitt sits naturally on the hand.

To begin the gusset, identify the position on your mitt where the thumb naturally falls when the piece is held against your hand. Mark this position with a stitch marker.

Gusset Increase Round: When you reach the marked position, instead of continuing in pattern, work 3 sc across the 3 stitches that fall at the base of the thumb opening, placing a marker at each end of these 3 stitches. Continue in pattern for the rest of the round.

On subsequent rounds, increase 1 stitch at each marked position (by working 2 stitches into the stitch before each marker) every other round, 3–4 times total. This will gradually widen the gusset to accommodate the thumb.

Once the gusset has reached the right size — typically after 6–8 stitches sit between your markers — it’s time to separate the thumb. On the next round, place the thumb gusset stitches on a length of scrap yarn or a stitch holder, chain 3–5 stitches across the gap to bridge the opening, and continue working in pattern across the rest of the hand.

Completing the Hand Section

With the thumb gusset on hold, you’ll continue working in your lace repeat across the hand. The hand section is typically shorter than the cuff and wrist section, as most fingerless mitts end just below the knuckles or at the base of the fingers.

Work your lace repeat for 4–6 additional rounds, or until the mitt reaches your desired length. Then finish with 1–2 rounds of single crochet or a simple shell border to create a neat, decorative edge at the top of the mitt.

A common finishing edge is: sc in first st, skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, repeated around, joined with a slip stitch. This creates a small scalloped border that echoes the lacy body of the mitt beautifully.

Finishing the Thumb

Return to your held thumb gusset stitches and join your yarn. Work in rounds around the thumb opening, picking up stitches along the chain bridge you made earlier and working in simple single crochet or a 1–2 round lace border. Keep the thumb section short — typically 2–4 rounds is enough to create a neat cuff without restricting movement.

Fasten off and weave in your ends securely.

Blocking Your Lacy Mitts

Blocking is not optional for lace — it is essential. No matter how beautiful your stitchwork, the true design will only reveal itself after blocking.

To block your finished mitts, wet them thoroughly in cool water and gently squeeze out the excess moisture. Never wring or twist lace; this can distort the fibers. Roll them in a clean towel to absorb more water, then lay them flat on a blocking board or foam mat.

Using rust-proof pins, gently pin the mitts into shape, stretching the lace pattern open slightly to reveal all the beautiful details. Pay particular attention to the chain spaces and shell stitches, which should open up into clear, defined shapes. Allow the mitts to dry completely — this can take anywhere from a few hours to overnight depending on the yarn fiber and room humidity.

When you remove the pins, you’ll be amazed at the transformation. The fabric will have relaxed and evened out, the stitch pattern will be clearly visible, and the mitts will have a soft, flowing drape that simply wasn’t there before.

Tips for Customizing Your Mitts

One of the great joys of making your own accessories is the ability to customize them to your exact preferences. Here are a few ideas for making the To Have & To Hold Lacy Mitts uniquely yours.

Adjust the length. Add more rounds of lace repeat to the cuff for a dramatic, arm-covering effect, or remove rounds to create a shorter, daintier style that barely covers the wrist.

Add embellishments. Small pearl buttons sewn along the cuff, beads worked directly into the lace pattern (thread them onto your yarn before you begin), or a simple ribbon threaded through a row of chain spaces can all add a special finishing touch — perfect if you’re making these as wedding accessories.

Change the yarn weight. Working the pattern in a DK or worsted weight yarn with a correspondingly larger hook creates a chunkier, cozier version of the mitts that’s perfect for autumn and winter. The lace pattern will be more open and dramatic in a heavier yarn.

Try a variegated or tonal yarn. Semi-solid and tonal yarns interact beautifully with lace patterns, creating subtle depth and movement. Highly variegated yarns can compete with the pattern, so if you go that route, look for one with longer color repeats.

Make them as a pair of gifts. These mitts work up relatively quickly once you have the pattern memorized, making them a wonderful gift project. A skein of luxurious yarn in someone’s favorite color, transformed into a pair of these mitts, makes a deeply personal and impressive present.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

The lace pattern looks closed up and dense. Check your tension — you’re likely crocheting too tightly. Try a larger hook, consciously loosen your grip, or practice working chain stitches more loosely. Blocking will also help open the pattern.

The mitt is too large or too small. Adjust your starting chain count up or down in increments of 6 (to keep the pattern repeat intact). Alternatively, adjust your hook size.

The thumb gusset puckers or feels awkward. Make sure you’re picking up the right number of stitches along the chain bridge when returning to work the thumb. A small seam or gap can usually be closed when weaving in ends.

My lace repeat looks uneven. Count your chain spaces at the end of each round before proceeding to the next. Losing or gaining a chain space is the most common source of unevenness in lace patterns, and it’s easiest to catch and correct it immediately rather than several rounds later.

Final Thoughts

The To Have & To Hold Lacy Mitts are one of those patterns that reward patience and care with results that feel genuinely special. There’s something deeply satisfying about working through a lace repeat and watching a delicate, intricate fabric grow stitch by stitch under your hands. Whether you’re making these for yourself, for a bride, for a friend, or simply because you love the beauty of lace crochet, the process is as enjoyable as the finished piece.

Keep your tension relaxed, trust the pattern, don’t skip the blocking step, and above all, enjoy the journey. Lace crochet is one of the most meditative and rewarding corners of the fiber arts world, and once you’ve made your first pair of mitts, you’ll find yourself reaching for this pattern again and again.

Happy crocheting.