Free Simone Ankle Socks Pattern – Top-Down Lace Socks

There is something deeply satisfying about knitting a pair of socks from scratch. The process of watching a few skeins of yarn transform into a wearable, functional piece of clothing never gets old, and ankle socks in particular offer a wonderful balance between a manageable project size and a finished object that you will actually reach for every single day. The Simone Ankle Socks are exactly that kind of pattern — elegant enough to feel like a treat, practical enough to wear with anything, and written in a way that makes them approachable for knitters who are ready to try lace for the first time or who simply want a reliable go-to pattern they can knit again and again.

This pattern is worked top-down, which means you begin at the cuff and work your way down through the leg, the heel, the foot, and finally the toe. Many knitters prefer this construction because it gives you a traditional heel flap and gusset — a combination that produces a beautifully fitted, reinforced heel that holds up wonderfully to everyday wear. The lace panel running down the leg and across the top of the foot adds just enough visual interest to make the socks feel special without turning the project into something stressful or complicated.

Whether you are a seasoned sock knitter looking for something new to cast on this weekend or a beginner who has been wanting to try socks for the first time, keep reading. Everything you need to get started is right here.

About the Simone Ankle Socks

The Simone Ankle Socks were designed with simplicity and elegance in mind. The name feels fitting for a pattern that carries itself with a quiet kind of sophistication — nothing fussy, nothing overdone, just clean lines and a pretty repeating lace motif that catches the light in a way that makes people ask where you bought your socks, and then blink in genuine surprise when you tell them you made them yourself.

The lace pattern used in this design is a straightforward eyelet rib, which means it is built on a combination of yarn overs and decreases that create small, evenly spaced holes in the fabric. This type of lace is sometimes called “easy lace” or “beginner lace” because it does not require you to keep track of complex stitch counts or work multiple types of decreases in a single row. Once you have worked the first repeat, the pattern becomes intuitive and you will find yourself knitting from memory before you have even finished the cuff.

The socks are ankle length, meaning the leg portion is relatively short — roughly two to three inches of pattern before you move into the heel. This makes them an excellent choice if you are working with a limited amount of yarn, if you are new to sock construction, or if you simply prefer a lower-cut sock for warmer weather or athletic shoes.

Materials You Will Need

Before you cast on, gather everything on this list. Having your materials ready before you begin will make the process much smoother and more enjoyable.

Yarn: You will need approximately 350 to 400 yards of fingering weight sock yarn for a women’s medium size. Sock yarn should ideally contain a nylon content of at least 20 percent, which adds durability and helps the heels and toes resist wearing through over time. Any fiber blend works beautifully here — wool and nylon, merino and nylon, or even a cotton-nylon blend for a cooler, more breathable sock. Choose a yarn with good stitch definition so that the lace eyelets show up clearly. Heavily textured or handspun yarns can obscure the lace detail.

Needles: Use US size 1 (2.25 mm) double-pointed needles, or a long circular needle if you prefer the magic loop method. The needle size given in most sock patterns is a starting point; your gauge swatch will tell you whether you need to go up or down. Because the fit of a sock depends so much on gauge, swatching is worth the extra hour before you dive in.

Notions: You will need a set of stitch markers, a tapestry needle for finishing, scissors, and a cable needle or spare dpn for holding stitches during the heel. A row counter is helpful but optional.

Gauge

20 stitches and 28 rows equals 2 inches in stockinette stitch, blocked, on US size 1 needles. Gauge in lace patterns can be slightly looser than in plain stockinette, so be sure to wash and block your swatch before measuring.

Getting gauge right is especially important in socks because the fit depends entirely on the circumference of the fabric. A gauge that is even slightly off can result in socks that are too tight and uncomfortable or so loose that they bunch and slide down inside your shoe. Take the time to swatch, and your future self will thank you.

Sizing

This pattern is written for a women’s shoe size 7 to 8, with a foot circumference of approximately 8 inches. Notes for adjusting the size are included throughout the pattern.

To make a smaller sock (shoe size 5 to 6, approximately 7.5 inches circumference), cast on 60 stitches instead of 64 and reduce the foot length slightly before beginning the toe.

To make a larger sock (shoe size 9 to 10, approximately 8.5 inches circumference), cast on 68 stitches and add a small amount of length to the foot section before the toe.

Understanding the Lace Chart

The lace motif in the Simone Ankle Socks is based on a six-stitch, four-row repeat. Here is what each symbol means:

A knit stitch is worked on the right side and purled on the wrong side. A yarn over creates a new stitch by wrapping the yarn around the needle before working the next stitch — this is the hole you see in the finished lace. A knit two together (k2tog) is a right-leaning decrease that removes one stitch. A slip, slip, knit (ssk) is a left-leaning decrease that also removes one stitch.

Because this pattern is worked in the round, you will never see a wrong side row. Every round is a right-side round, which simplifies things considerably. The yarn overs and decreases balance each other out within each repeat, meaning your stitch count will remain consistent throughout the lace section.

The Pattern

Cast On

Using your preferred stretchy cast-on method, cast on 64 stitches. The long-tail cast on works well here and gives a neat, elastic edge. Divide the stitches across your needles — if using double-pointed needles, place 16 stitches on each of four needles. If using the magic loop method, place 32 stitches on each side of the loop.

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Cuff

Work in 2×2 rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 1 inch. This creates a snug, stretchy cuff that will hug the ankle and keep the sock in place throughout the day. For a more pronounced cuff, you can work the ribbing for up to 1.5 inches.

Leg

The leg of the sock is where the lace panel begins. The panel is centered on the front of the sock (the half of the stitches that will sit on top of the foot) and runs straight down to the heel.

The lace panel is worked over 32 stitches, and the remaining 32 stitches are worked in plain stockinette. You can divide your stitches so that the lace stitches are on your first two needles (or the front half of your magic loop) and the stockinette stitches are on your back two needles (or the back half of your loop).

Lace Pattern (worked over 32 stitches, 4-row repeat):

Round 1: Knit 1, yarn over, knit 2, slip slip knit, knit 1 — repeat this six-stitch sequence across the 32 lace stitches, ending with knit 2. Knit the remaining 32 stitches in stockinette.

Round 2: Knit all stitches.

Round 3: Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, yarn over, knit 1 — repeat across the 32 lace stitches. Knit the remaining 32 stitches.

Round 4: Knit all stitches.

Repeat these four rounds until the leg measures approximately 2.5 inches from the bottom of the cuff, or until you have reached your desired leg length. For a taller ankle sock, work the lace repeat for 3 to 3.5 inches. For a true no-show sock, work just an inch of lace before moving into the heel.

Heel Flap

The heel is worked back and forth over the 32 stockinette stitches on the back half of your sock. Leave the 32 lace stitches on hold — you will come back to them later.

Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, purl to end of heel stitches. Turn.

Row 2 (right side): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, knit 1 — repeat across the row. Turn.

Repeat these two rows until the heel flap measures approximately 2.5 inches, ending after a right-side row. The slipped stitches on the right-side rows create a neat chain of edge stitches that you will pick up later when you work the gusset. You should have approximately 25 to 28 of these chain stitches along each side of the flap.

Heel Turn

The heel turn transforms the flat heel flap into a three-dimensional cup that cradles the back of your foot. It uses short rows and a technique called “working stitches together at the gap” to eliminate the holes that would otherwise form.

Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1, purl 17, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn.

Row 2 (right side): Slip 1, knit 5, slip slip knit, knit 1, turn.

Row 3: Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before the gap, purl 2 together (using the stitches on either side of the gap), purl 1, turn.

Row 4: Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before the gap, slip slip knit, knit 1, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all heel stitches have been worked. You should have 18 stitches remaining on your heel needle.

Gusset

Resume working in the round. Knit across the 18 heel stitches, then pick up and knit one stitch in each of the chain edge stitches along the right side of the heel flap. Place a marker, work across the 32 held lace stitches continuing the established lace pattern, place a second marker, then pick up and knit along the left side of the heel flap. Knit to the end of the heel stitches, stopping at the center of the heel. This is your new beginning of round.

Your stitch count will be higher than 64 at this point — typically somewhere around 80 to 90 stitches depending on how many stitches you picked up. The gusset decreases will bring you back down to 64.

Decrease Round: Knit to 3 stitches before the first marker, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip marker, work lace pattern across 32 stitches, slip marker, knit 1, slip slip knit, knit to end.

Plain Round: Knit to marker, work lace pattern across 32 stitches, knit to end.

Alternate these two rounds until you have 64 stitches total — 32 on the sole and 32 on the instep.

Foot

Continue working in the round, maintaining the lace pattern on the instep stitches and working the sole stitches in plain stockinette. Work until the foot measures approximately 1.75 inches shorter than your total desired foot length. For a size 7 to 8 foot, this means working until the foot is approximately 7 inches from the back of the heel.

Toe

The toe is worked in plain stockinette with decreases on each side to taper the fabric to a point.

Set-up: If you are not already positioned at the beginning of the sole stitches, rearrange your stitches so that the 32 sole stitches are on the back needle(s) and the 32 instep stitches are on the front. Place markers at each side of the sock — at the junction between the sole and instep stitches.

Decrease Round: Knit 1, slip slip knit, knit to 3 stitches before the next marker, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip marker, knit 1, slip slip knit, knit to 3 stitches before the end, knit 2 together, knit 1.

Plain Round: Knit all stitches.

Repeat these two rounds until 32 stitches remain. Then work only the decrease round every round until 16 stitches remain.

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail of approximately 12 inches. Divide the remaining stitches evenly between two needles — 8 stitches on each. Graft the toe closed using Kitchener stitch.

Finishing

Weave in all ends with your tapestry needle, taking care to work the ends into the fabric in a way that follows the direction of the stitches and won’t work loose over time. Soak the finished sock in cool water with a small amount of wool wash for 15 minutes, then gently press out the excess water and block flat or over a sock blocker. Blocking opens up the lace beautifully and evens out the stitches in a way that makes the finished sock look polished and professional.

Repeat the entire pattern for the second sock. Many knitters find it helpful to keep track of their round counts so that both socks match precisely — a small notebook or row counter app works well for this.

Tips for Success

The most common challenge knitters face when trying socks for the first time is understanding how the different sections relate to each other. Think of the sock as a series of distinct modules: the cuff, the leg, the heel flap, the heel turn, the gusset, the foot, and the toe. Each module has a clear beginning and end, and none of them is as complicated as it might initially appear. If you feel lost, stop, count your stitches, and look at the actual fabric in your hands. The sock will usually tell you where you are.

If the gusset pick-up round feels intimidating, work it slowly and count your picked-up stitches as you go. It is better to pick up a few more than you need and then decrease an extra round or two than to end up with holes along the sides of the heel.

For a more durable heel, you can reinforce the heel flap by holding a second strand of matching thread alongside your yarn as you work the slipped-stitch rows. This technique is popular among hikers and runners who put significant wear on their heels.

Yarn Recommendations

Almost any good sock yarn will work beautifully in this pattern, but a few stand out as particularly lovely choices. Malabrigo Sock is a single-ply merino yarn that has exceptional stitch definition and comes in the most gorgeous hand-dyed colorways — ideal if you want the lace to really pop. Cascade Heritage is a workhorse of the sock yarn world, affordable and durable with a wide range of solid and heathered colors. Opal Sock Yarn prints can add a playful striped or pooling effect to the design, though highly variegated colorways may obscure the lace slightly. For a lighter, more breathable sock, Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend offers a cotton and nylon mix that is perfect for warm weather.

Making the Pattern Your Own

One of the great joys of knitting is the ability to modify a pattern to suit your own taste. If you want a taller sock, simply work more rounds of the lace pattern in the leg section. If you prefer a denser sock without lace, substitute the lace pattern rounds with plain stockinette — the construction remains exactly the same. You can also swap the lace motif for a simple cable if you have cable knitting experience and prefer the look of twisted stitches.

The cuff can be extended for a more dramatic folded cuff effect, or shortened to just half an inch for a minimal, barely-there edge. If you want to add a contrasting color, the cuff is the natural place to introduce it — cast on in your contrast color, work the ribbing, then switch to your main color