Free Cardigan Knitting Pattern: Lace and Cable Cardigan
There is something deeply satisfying about wearing a cardigan you made yourself. The weight of the fabric against your shoulders, the way the stitches catch the light, the knowledge that every stitch passed through your own hands — it is a different experience from anything you can buy in a store. And when that cardigan combines two of the most beautiful techniques in knitting — delicate lace and sculpted cables — the result is something truly special.
This free cardigan knitting pattern brings lace and cable work together in a design that is elegant enough for a dinner out and comfortable enough for a lazy Sunday morning. It is written for knitters with intermediate experience, meaning you should be comfortable with basic increases, decreases, and reading a chart. If you have knit a few scarves and hats and are ready to level up, this project will teach you a great deal. If you are already experienced, you will find plenty here to enjoy.
Let us get into everything you need to know.
About This Design
The Lace and Cable Cardigan is a classic open-front design with a relaxed, flattering silhouette. The body features a central lace panel that runs from the hem to the neckline, framed on either side by a traditional rope cable. The sleeves are plain stockinette at the lower portion and transition into a matching lace panel near the upper arm, creating a cohesive look without making the sleeve knitting tedious.
The cardigan does not have buttons. Instead, it is designed to drape open or be fastened with a single brooch or shawl pin at the chest. This makes it endlessly versatile — wear it casually over a t-shirt or dressed up over a blouse.
The finished fabric has a soft, slightly drapey quality that works beautifully in fingering or DK weight yarn. The pattern is written for DK weight, but notes are included for adjusting to fingering weight.
Materials
Yarn: Approximately 900–1,200 yards of DK weight yarn, depending on size. A smooth, plied yarn works best for showing off cable and lace detail. Wool or a wool blend is ideal for stitch definition. Recommended fibers include merino, a merino/silk blend, or a wool/alpaca blend for extra drape.
Needles: US size 5 (3.75 mm) circular needles, 32 inches or longer. You will also want a set of double-pointed needles or a second circular needle in the same size for the sleeves if you prefer to avoid magic loop.
Cable needle: Any style works. Some knitters prefer a bent cable needle; others use a straight one or simply a short DPN.
Notions: Stitch markers (at least 6), stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle for finishing, and one shawl pin or brooch if desired.
Gauge: 22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, blocked. Gauge is important here, particularly for sizing, so please swatch and wash your swatch before starting.
Sizing
This pattern is written for sizes XS through 3XL with the following approximate finished bust measurements:
XS: 32 inches, S: 36 inches, M: 40 inches, L: 44 inches, XL: 48 inches, 2XL: 52 inches, 3XL: 56 inches.
The cardigan is designed with 2 to 4 inches of positive ease, meaning it will be slightly larger than your actual bust measurement for a relaxed, comfortable fit. If you prefer a more fitted look, size down. If you prefer an oversized fit, size up.
Throughout the pattern, stitch counts for each size are written in order separated by slashes: XS / S / M / L / XL / 2XL / 3XL. If only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.
Abbreviations
Before diving in, here are the abbreviations used throughout:
k — knit, p — purl, k2tog — knit two together (right-leaning decrease), ssk — slip slip knit (left-leaning decrease), yo — yarn over, C6B — cable six back (slip 3 stitches to cable needle and hold to back, knit 3, then knit 3 from cable needle), C6F — cable six front (slip 3 stitches to cable needle and hold to front, knit 3, then knit 3 from cable needle), pm — place marker, sm — slip marker, RS — right side, WS — wrong side, rep — repeat.
Stitch Patterns
Lace Panel (worked over 17 stitches)
Row 1 (RS): k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Purl all stitches.
Row 3: k2, yo, k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2.
Row 4: Purl all stitches.
Row 5: k3, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3.
Row 6: Purl all stitches.
Row 7: k4, yo, sk2p, yo, k7, yo, sk2p, yo, k4.
Row 8: Purl all stitches.
These 8 rows form the lace panel repeat.
Note: sk2p is a double decrease: slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over. This creates a centered decrease that forms the elegant V shapes characteristic of traditional lace.
Rope Cable (worked over 12 stitches)
Rows 1, 2, 3, 4 (setup): Knit on RS, purl on WS.
Row 5 (cable row, RS): C6B, C6F.
Rows 6 through 12: Knit on RS, purl on WS.
Row 13: C6B, C6F.
These 12 rows (after the initial setup) form the cable repeat, with the cable cross happening every 8 rows.
Pattern Instructions
Back
Cast on 89 / 97 / 109 / 121 / 133 / 145 / 157 stitches using a long-tail cast on or your preferred stretchy cast on.
Work 10 rows in 1×1 rib (knit 1, purl 1, repeat to end, ending with k1) for the hem ribbing.
On the next RS row, set up your stitch pattern as follows:
Work 36 / 40 / 46 / 52 / 58 / 64 / 70 stitches in stockinette, pm, work the 17-stitch lace panel, pm, work remaining 36 / 40 / 46 / 52 / 58 / 64 / 70 stitches in stockinette.
Continue in pattern as established, working the center lace panel between markers every RS row and purling it on WS rows, until the back measures 13 / 13.5 / 14 / 14 / 14.5 / 15 / 15 inches from cast on, ending with a WS row.
Armhole Shaping: Bind off 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Then decrease 1 stitch at each end every RS row 5 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 times. You will have 71 / 77 / 85 / 93 / 101 / 109 / 117 stitches remaining.
Continue straight until the armhole measures 7.5 / 8 / 8.5 / 9 / 9.5 / 10 / 10.5 inches from the start of shaping, ending with a WS row.
Shoulder Shaping: Bind off 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows. Place the remaining 35 / 35 / 37 / 39 / 41 / 43 / 45 stitches on a holder for the back neck.
Left Front
Cast on 44 / 48 / 54 / 60 / 66 / 72 / 78 stitches.
Work 10 rows in 1×1 rib for the hem.
Set up pattern on next RS row: Work 6 stitches in rib for the front band, pm, work 5 / 9 / 12 / 15 / 18 / 21 / 24 stitches in stockinette, pm, work 12-stitch rope cable, pm, work 17-stitch lace panel, pm, work remaining stitches in stockinette.
The front band of 6 stitches in rib (knit 1, purl 1 across) is maintained throughout to create a clean, structured edge for the open front.
Continue in pattern until the front measures the same as the back to the armhole, ending with a WS row.
Armhole Shaping: At the beginning of the next RS row, bind off 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 stitches for the armhole. Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge every RS row 5 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 times.
Continue straight until the armhole measures 5 / 5.5 / 6 / 6.5 / 7 / 7.5 / 8 inches, ending with a RS row.
Neck Shaping: On the next WS row, bind off 8 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 stitches at the neck edge (this will be at the front band side). Then decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge every RS row 9 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 times.
Continue straight until the armhole matches the back armhole depth. Shape the shoulder to match the back, binding off 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 stitches at the armhole edge on alternate rows 3 times.
Right Front
Work as for the left front, reversing all shaping. The cable and lace panel placement is mirrored: from the armhole edge inward, work stockinette, then the 17-stitch lace panel, then the 12-stitch rope cable, then remaining stockinette, then the 6-stitch front band in rib. Armhole shaping begins on WS rows and neck shaping on RS rows.
Sleeves
Cast on 45 / 47 / 49 / 53 / 55 / 59 / 63 stitches.
Work 12 rows in 1×1 rib for the cuff.
Continue in stockinette, working a sleeve increase row (k1, m1L, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1) every 8 / 7 / 7 / 6 / 6 / 6 / 5 rows until you have 71 / 77 / 83 / 91 / 97 / 107 / 115 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 14 / 14 / 14.5 / 15 / 15 / 15.5 / 16 inches from the cast on (or desired length to underarm), introduce the lace panel. Work to the center of your sleeve stitches and, centering the 17-stitch lace panel at the center, begin working the panel on RS rows. Continue until the sleeve cap shaping begins.
Sleeve Cap: Bind off 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end every RS row 14 / 15 / 16 / 18 / 19 / 21 / 23 times. Then decrease every row (RS and WS) 5 / 5 / 5 / 5 / 5 / 5 / 5 times. Bind off remaining 15 / 17 / 19 / 21 / 23 / 25 / 27 stitches.
Finishing
Once all four pieces are complete, block everything thoroughly before seaming. Lace in particular needs to be wet blocked to open up the pattern and allow it to reach its full, airy potential. Pin your pieces to measurements on a blocking board or clean towel, wet them with cool water, and allow them to dry completely. Do not rush this step — it transforms the fabric entirely.
After blocking, seam the shoulders using Kitchener stitch for a seamless join or three-needle bind off for a slightly visible but very tidy ridge. Sew the side seams and sleeve seams, then set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve cap into the armhole.
Neckband: With RS facing, pick up and knit stitches evenly around the neck opening, beginning at the right front band edge and working along the right front neck, across the back neck stitches from the holder, and down the left front neck. The exact number of stitches will vary based on your tension, but aim for an odd total so the 1×1 rib begins and ends consistently. Work 8 rows of 1×1 rib, then bind off loosely.
Weave in all ends. Give the finished cardigan one final light blocking if needed, paying attention to the front bands to ensure they lie flat.
Tips for Success
The most common challenge with lace and cable patterns is keeping track of where you are in the repeat, especially on the lace panel. Use a magnetic board or sticky note to mark your row as you go. Many experienced knitters also suggest placing a stitch marker between the lace panel and the cable to make it easier to count stitches at a glance.
If you make a mistake in the lace section, do not panic. Drop down to the error stitch using a crochet hook to fix it row by row — it is far less frightening than it sounds once you try it. Cables are forgiving in a different way: if you do a cable cross on the wrong row, the pattern still looks lovely, just with a slightly different rhythm.
When choosing yarn, resist the temptation to use a heavily textured or variegated colorway for this pattern. Lace and cable detail disappears into busy color changes. Instead, opt for a semi-solid, tonal, or solid color that lets the stitch patterns shine. Heathered yarns can work beautifully if the color variation is subtle.
For fingering weight substitution, use US size 2 or 3 needles and plan on approximately 1,400 to 1,800 yards of yarn, depending on your size. The finished fabric will be finer and more delicate, giving the cardigan an almost vintage quality.
Yarn Suggestions
If you are looking for yarn recommendations, any smooth DK weight wool will serve you well. Cascade 220 Superwash in DK, Rowan Felted Tweed DK, Malabrigo Rios, and Berroco Ultra Alpaca Light are all wonderful choices. For a special treat, a merino-silk blend like Madelinetosh Tosh DK or Malabrigo Sock (used at a heavier gauge) will give you incredible sheen and drape that makes the lace sections look almost architectural.
A Few Words on Learning as You Go
If this is your first time working cables or lace, this cardigan is a wonderful introduction because neither technique is especially complex here. The rope cable is one of the most beginner-friendly cable patterns — it requires you only to hold a few stitches to the back or front and knit them in a different order. Once you understand
