Eyelet and Cable Knit Pattern: Lace Cabled Vines Knitting Stitch
There is something deeply satisfying about a knitting stitch that manages to feel both intricate and timeless. The Lace Cabled Vines stitch is exactly that kind of pattern — a gorgeous combination of delicate eyelets and bold cables that together create the illusion of vines climbing gracefully across your fabric. Whether you are a seasoned knitter looking for your next challenge or an intermediate knitter ready to take the leap into combination stitch work, this pattern offers something genuinely rewarding.
In this post, we will walk through everything you need to know about the Lace Cabled Vines knitting stitch: what makes it special, what materials you will need, how to read the pattern, a full stitch guide, and plenty of tips for making your swatch look its very best.
What Makes the Lace Cabled Vines Stitch So Special
Before we dive into the actual pattern, it is worth taking a moment to appreciate what this stitch is doing structurally. Most knitters think of lace and cables as belonging to two separate worlds. Lace is airy and delicate, built on yarn overs and decreases that create holes and negative space. Cables are bold and sculptural, built on crossing stitches that pull the fabric into pronounced ridges and twists. Combining the two seems, at first glance, like it might produce visual chaos — but in practice, the opposite is true.
The Lace Cabled Vines stitch uses the eyelets to suggest the organic, trailing quality of actual vines. The yarn overs create small, leaf-shaped openings along the edges of the cable, and the cable itself forms the thick, twisting stem. The result looks botanical and flowing, like something you might find pressed between the pages of an old gardening book. On a sweater yoke, a shawl, or a pair of socks, this stitch becomes something truly special.
The other thing that makes this pattern exciting is that, once you understand the repeat, it is far more approachable than it looks. The combination of lace and cable can feel intimidating, but both elements follow a logical rhythm. By the time you have worked a few full repeats, your hands will know what is coming before your eyes even find the next stitch marker.
Skill Level and Prerequisites
This pattern is best suited for intermediate to advanced knitters. You should be comfortable with the following techniques before casting on:
Cables: You will need to know how to work a basic cable cross using a cable needle. This pattern uses both front and back crosses, so familiarity with both is important. If you have knitted any cable pattern before — even a simple two-stitch twist — you have the foundational skill you need.
Yarn Overs: The lace portion of this stitch relies on standard yarn overs to create eyelets. Yarn overs are not complicated, but you need to be consistent in how you place them to keep the lace looking tidy.
Decreases: The pattern uses both knit-two-together (k2tog) and slip-slip-knit (ssk) decreases. These are mirror-image decreases that lean in opposite directions, and using the correct one in each position is what gives the lace its directional quality.
Reading a Chart or Written Instructions: This pattern is offered in written form below, but if you prefer to work from a chart, the repeat is easy to translate into grid form. Working from a chart often helps knitters see the visual structure of the stitch at a glance.
If you are a little shaky on any of these techniques, this pattern is actually a wonderful opportunity to practice them in a context where they work together beautifully. A tension swatch is always a good idea, and it gives you a low-stakes environment to work out any wobbles.
Materials and Gauge
The beauty of a combination stitch like this one is that it works across a wide range of yarn weights. That said, the stitch shows up most clearly in lighter weights where the eyelets can breathe and the cable definition is crisp.
Recommended Yarn: A smooth, plied yarn in fingering, sport, or DK weight will show the most detail. Avoid highly textured or thick-and-thin yarns for your first attempt, as the variations in the yarn’s surface can obscure the lace openings and make the cables harder to read. Wool and wool-blend yarns are ideal because they have the natural elasticity to accommodate the cable crosses without distorting the surrounding stitches.
Needles: Use the needle size recommended for your yarn, or go down one size if you prefer a slightly firmer fabric. For cables and lace worked together, a slightly tighter gauge helps keep the eyelets from becoming too loose and the cables from losing their definition.
Cable Needle: A short cable needle or a simple bent needle works well. Some experienced cable knitters skip the cable needle altogether and work their crosses directly, which is perfectly fine once you are comfortable with the stitch.
Other Tools: Stitch markers are helpful for isolating your repeat, especially when you are first learning the pattern. A row counter is useful for tracking your position in the eight-row repeat. Locking stitch markers or coilless pins are handy for marking the right side of your work.
Gauge: Because this is a textural stitch used for pattern swatching, gauge will depend on your specific yarn and needle combination. Always knit a swatch of at least four-by-four inches before beginning any project, and block your swatch before measuring. Blocking opens up the eyelets beautifully and also relaxes the cables slightly, giving you a much more accurate picture of your finished fabric.
Understanding the Stitch Structure
The Lace Cabled Vines stitch is worked over a repeat of 12 stitches, plus any edge stitches you choose to add. The repeat itself is 8 rows tall. Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7 are right-side rows where all the interesting action happens. Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8 are wrong-side rows where you simply purl across (or knit if you prefer a garter-based background).
The cable in this stitch is a 6-stitch cable that crosses on rows 1 and 5, creating a gentle twist rather than a dramatic fold. The eyelets appear on either side of the cable on rows 3 and 7, creating a staggered, asymmetrical lace that mimics the way real vines branch off from a central stem.
This staggering is important to understand before you begin. The eyelets do not appear in the same position every time. On row 3, they lean to the right of the cable; on row 7, they lean to the left. This is what gives the stitch its organic, vine-like quality. If you find yourself confused about where the eyelets should land, look back at your previous rows and follow the visual logic of the vine rather than counting from scratch each time.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
Before the written instructions, here is a quick reference for all abbreviations used:
k — knit
p — purl
yo — yarn over
k2tog — knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
C6F — cable 6 front: slip 3 stitches to cable needle and hold in front, knit 3, then knit 3 from cable needle
C6B — cable 6 back: slip 3 stitches to cable needle and hold in back, knit 3, then knit 3 from cable needle
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
rep — repeat
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
The Lace Cabled Vines Pattern: Written Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 12 stitches, plus 4 for selvedge (2 at each edge).
For a sample swatch, cast on 28 stitches. This gives you two full repeats of 12 stitches, plus the 4 selvedge stitches.
Row 1 (RS): K2 (selvedge), C6F, k6, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2 (selvedge).
Row 2 (WS) and all even rows: K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 3 (RS): K2, k1, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k4, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 5 (RS): K2, k6, C6B, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 7 (RS): K2, k4, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 8 (WS): K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat rows 1 through 8 for pattern.
Step-by-Step Breakdown of Each Right-Side Row
Sometimes written instructions can feel abstract until you understand what each row is actually building. Here is a closer look at what is happening visually on each right-side row and why.
Row 1 — The First Cable Cross: This row introduces the cable twist that forms the central vine stem. By crossing 6 stitches to the front (C6F), you create a left-leaning cable that begins the twist. At this point, the fabric will look like a classic cable with no eyelets, and that is exactly right. Think of this as laying down the main branch of the vine.
Row 3 — Right-Side Eyelets: This is where the lace element first appears. The yo-k2tog pairing near the beginning of the repeat creates a right-leaning eyelet, and the ssk-yo pairing near the end creates a left-leaning eyelet. Together, they frame the center of the repeat like two small leaves emerging from the right side of the vine stem. The stitches surrounding the eyelets remain as plain knit, forming the background.
Row 5 — The Second Cable Cross: This row crosses the cable to the back (C6B), creating a right-leaning twist that counters the first cable. The alternating direction of the cables is what keeps the vine looking gently undulating rather than rigidly repeating. If you compare rows 1 and 5, the cable twists in opposite directions, which together create a gradual spiral effect over the full 8-row repeat.
Row 7 — Left-Side Eyelets: This row mirrors row 3 but shifts the eyelets to the opposite side of the repeat. Instead of appearing near the beginning of the 12-stitch repeat, the eyelets now appear near the end. This creates the impression that the vine’s leaves are alternating from side to side as the vine climbs upward — exactly how real climbing plants grow.
Tips for Working This Pattern Successfully
Mark your repeat clearly. When you first cast on, place stitch markers between each 12-stitch repeat. This helps enormously when you are counting out your yarn overs and decreases, and it makes it easy to identify if you have lost or gained a stitch before you have worked too far.
Count after every right-side row. Because this pattern involves both yarn overs (which add a stitch) and decreases (which remove a stitch), the stitch count within each repeat should always remain constant at 12. If your count is off, it is almost always because a yarn over was missed or a decrease was worked twice. Catching this early saves you from having to rip back multiple rows.
Use a lifeline before you cable. If you are new to combining cables with lace, threading a lifeline (a thin piece of contrasting yarn threaded through all live stitches on your needle) just before a cable row gives you a safe ripping-back point if something goes wrong with the cross. This is especially useful on row 1 before you have built up enough of a pattern to easily read your work.
Block your swatch generously. The Lace Cabled Vines stitch transforms dramatically with blocking. Before blocking, the eyelets may look pinched and the cables may dominate the fabric entirely. After a good wet blocking and gentle pinning, the lace opens up and the two elements come into balance. If you are disappointed by how your swatch looks off the needles, do not give up until you have blocked it.
Work with good light. The combination of dark yarn and fine needles can make it difficult to see individual stitches clearly, which matters a great deal when you are trying to identify the yo or count the stitches in a cable. Work near a window or under a daylight lamp, especially when you are learning the pattern. Save the moody candlelit knitting for a simpler project.
Practice the cable cross on its own first. If you are new to cables, spending five minutes working a simple 6-stitch cable swatch before you begin this pattern will pay dividends. The cable needle manipulation becomes faster and more intuitive with just a little practice, and you will be less likely to accidentally drop stitches mid-cross.
Project Ideas for the Lace Cabled Vines Stitch
Once you have mastered the repeat and feel confident working it without constant reference to the instructions, the possibilities for applying this stitch to actual projects are wide and lovely.
Shawls and Wraps: This stitch is particularly beautiful in a large rectangular shawl worked in a fingering-weight yarn. The vine motif, repeated across a wide span of fabric, creates a garden-like surface that is elegant and sophisticated. Work the border in a simple ribbing or garter stitch to let the central pattern speak for itself.
Sweater Yokes: A circular yoke knit in the round is a natural home for this stitch. Because the pattern repeat is a clean multiple of 12, it works beautifully around a yoke in most standard sizes. The lace portion keeps the yoke from feeling too heavy, which is a common challenge with all-cable yokes.
Cuffs and Sleeve Bands: If you are intimidated by committing to this stitch for an entire garment, start with the cuffs. A band of Lace Cabled Vines worked at the hem of a sleeve adds enormous visual interest to an otherwise simple sweater, and it is a manageable amount of pattern work.
Scarves and Cowls: A long scarf or an infinity cowl is arguably the perfect vehicle for this stitch. The serpentine quality of the vine repeat lends itself naturally to a vertical format, and a scarf gives you enough length to really fall into the rhythm of the pattern repeat.
Table Runners and Home Textiles: For the knitter who loves home décor projects, this stitch worked in a smooth cotton or linen yarn makes a beautiful table runner or placemat. Cotton will not have the same elasticity as wool, so your gauge may need adjustment, but the fabric that results has a crisp, heirloom quality.
Caring for Your Finished Piece
Regardless of the project you choose, proper care will keep your Lace Cabled Vines fabric looking its best for years to come.
If you have used a wool or wool-blend yarn, hand washing in cool water with a gentle wool wash is the safest approach. Lay the piece flat to dry rather than hanging it, as the weight of water can stretch a lace-heavy fabric out of shape. Re-block as needed — many knitted lace pieces benefit from a light blocking every few washes.
For cotton or linen projects, you may have more flexibility with machine washing, but always check the specific fiber content and manufacturer’s recommendations. When in doubt, a cool, gentle hand wash and a flat dry will serve almost any fiber well.
Store your finished pieces folded rather than hung, and keep them away from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, which can fade colors and weaken fibers over time.
Final Thoughts
The Lace Cabled Vines knitting stitch is the kind of pattern that reminds you why knitting is an art form and not just a craft. It asks you to hold two different structural logics in your mind at once — the open geometry of lace and the sculptural tension of cables — and weave them together into something that is greater than the sum of its parts. The result is a fabric that looks like it could have come from a Victorian pattern archive or a contemporary knitwear designer’s atelier.
If you have been curious about combination stitch work, this pattern is one of the most rewarding entry points you will find. Take it one repeat at a time, trust the rhythm, block your swatch, and enjoy the process. The vines will grow beautifully.
