Cleome Cardigan Free Knitting Pattern: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide for All Skill Levels
There is something quietly magical about a cardigan that manages to feel both effortless and intentional at the same time. The Cleome Cardigan is exactly that kind of project — a wearable, beautiful garment that knitters return to again and again because it works. Whether you are a seasoned knitter looking for your next wardrobe staple or an intermediate crafter ready to take on a full garment, this free knitting pattern for the Cleome Cardigan has everything you need to get started, stay on track, and finish with a piece you will genuinely love wearing.
In this guide, you will find the full free pattern, detailed instructions for each section of the cardigan, tips for customizing the fit, yarn substitution advice, and answers to the most common questions knitters ask when they tackle this design. Pull up a chair, pour yourself something warm, and let’s get into it.
What Is the Cleome Cardigan?
The Cleome Cardigan takes its name from the cleome flower — also known as spider flower — a bloom known for its delicate, airy, slightly wild beauty. That spirit is exactly what this cardigan captures. It features a relaxed silhouette with a slightly oversized fit, making it the kind of piece you reach for on a cool morning, throw over a sundress in summer, or layer under a heavier coat when the seasons start to shift.
Structurally, the Cleome Cardigan is worked from the top down in one piece, which means you knit the yoke first, then separate the sleeves from the body, and continue down without any seaming required for the main structure. The front bands are picked up and knitted after the body is complete, giving you clean, tidy edges and a polished finish. The construction is logical and satisfying, with each section building naturally on the last.
The stitch pattern is primarily stockinette with subtle textural details along the yoke and button band, giving the cardigan visual interest without demanding constant attention to a complex chart. It is the kind of knit you can work on while watching a film or sitting in conversation, while still producing something that looks thoughtfully crafted.
Materials and Yarn Requirements
Before you cast on, gathering everything you need makes the process far smoother. Here is what you will need for the Cleome Cardigan.
Yarn: Approximately 1,000 to 1,400 yards of worsted weight yarn, depending on your size. The pattern works beautifully in a smooth, plied wool or wool blend, which gives the stitch definition the clarity it deserves. If you prefer plant fibers, a cotton-linen blend can work well, though the drape will be softer and slightly less structured. For a luxurious feel, a merino-alpaca blend adds warmth and a gorgeous halo.
Needle Size: US 7 (4.5mm) circular needles, 32 inches or longer, for the body. You will also want a shorter circular or a set of double-pointed needles in the same size for the sleeves, unless you prefer to use the magic loop method.
Gauge: 20 stitches and 28 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch. Gauge is genuinely important for garments, so please swatch before you begin. A difference of even one stitch per inch over the width of a cardigan body can change your finished measurements by several inches.
Notions: Stitch markers (at least 6), stitch holders or scrap yarn for holding sleeve stitches, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, and 5 to 7 buttons approximately three-quarters of an inch in diameter. The button count depends on your chosen size and personal preference — more buttons give a more structured look, while fewer buttons keep things casual and easier to slip on and off.
Sizing
The Cleome Cardigan is written in sizes XS through 3X, with finished bust measurements ranging from approximately 36 inches to 56 inches. The pattern is designed with 4 to 6 inches of positive ease, meaning the finished garment is intentionally larger than your actual bust measurement. If you prefer a slightly closer fit, size down by one size. If you love an oversized, drapey feel, stay true to your measurement or size up.
Here are the approximate finished measurements for each size:
XS fits a 30–32 inch bust with a 36-inch finished measurement. Small fits a 33–35 inch bust with a 39-inch finished measurement. Medium fits a 36–38 inch bust with a 42-inch finished measurement. Large fits a 39–41 inch bust with a 45-inch finished measurement. XL fits a 42–44 inch bust with a 49-inch finished measurement. 2X fits a 45–47 inch bust with a 53-inch finished measurement. 3X fits a 48–51 inch bust with a 56-inch finished measurement.
Body length from underarm to hem is approximately 14 inches for all sizes, but this is easy to adjust. If you want a longer or cropped cardigan, simply knit more or fewer rows before the hem. The sleeve length is approximately 18 inches from underarm to cuff, again easily adjustable.
Pattern Abbreviations
Before the instructions begin, here is a quick reference for the abbreviations used throughout this pattern.
CO means cast on. BO means bind off. K means knit. P means purl. K2tog means knit two stitches together, a right-leaning decrease. Ssk means slip, slip, knit, a left-leaning decrease. PM means place marker. SM means slip marker. M1R means make one right, a right-leaning increase. M1L means make one left, a left-leaning increase. RS means right side. WS means wrong side. St or sts means stitch or stitches. Rep means repeat.
The Pattern: Cleome Cardigan Free Knitting Instructions
Casting On and the Neckline
Using a long-tail cast on or your preferred stretchy cast on method, CO the following number of stitches according to your size: XS: 72 sts, S: 78 sts, M: 84 sts, L: 90 sts, XL: 96 sts, 2X: 102 sts, 3X: 108 sts.
These stitches form the back neck, and you will be working flat from this point through the yoke. Setup row (WS): P across all stitches.
Row 1 (RS, increase row): K3, PM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM — continue placing markers and working increases at each of the 8 raglan points. The eight marked sections correspond to the left front, left sleeve, back, right sleeve, and right front, with increases worked at each side of each section.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across, slipping all markers.
Continue working these two rows, increasing 8 stitches every right-side row, until the yoke measures the depth required for your size. The yoke depth from the cast-on edge to the underarm should be approximately 8 inches for XS through M, and 9 inches for L through 3X. At this point you will have accumulated a substantial number of stitches — this is expected and is what creates that beautiful, seamless raglaned yoke.
Separating the Sleeves
On the next RS row, work across the left front stitches, then transfer the sleeve stitches to a stitch holder or scrap yarn. CO a small number of underarm stitches (typically 4 to 8 depending on your size) using the backward loop method, then continue working across the back, transfer the second sleeve, CO the second underarm, and finish across the right front.
Your sleeve stitches will rest on holders while you complete the body. The underarm cast-on stitches become a small bridge that joins the front and back and creates the foundation for picking up the sleeve stitches later.
The Body
You now have only the body stitches on your needle. Continue working in stockinette (knit on RS, purl on WS) until the body measures approximately 12 inches from the underarm, or until your piece is about 2 inches shorter than your desired finished length.
At this point, work the hem ribbing: switch to a K2, P2 rib pattern and work for 2 inches. BO all stitches in pattern, being careful not to bind off too tightly. A stretchy bind off such as the Russian bind off or a simple slipped-stitch bind off works well here.
The Sleeves
Transfer one sleeve’s held stitches back to your needle. Pick up the underarm stitches, PM to mark the center of the underarm, and join to work in the round. Knit one full round, then begin sleeve decreases.
Decrease round: K1, K2tog, knit to 3 stitches before marker, Ssk, K1.
Work the decrease round every 8th round until the sleeve is the length you want minus 2 inches for the cuff ribbing. Then work K2, P2 rib for 2 inches and BO in pattern. Repeat for the second sleeve.
The Button Bands
With the RS of the right front facing you, pick up stitches along the entire front edge at a rate of approximately 3 stitches for every 4 rows. The exact stitch count will vary depending on your cardigan length, but the goal is a band that lies flat without pulling or ruffling.
Work 5 rows of K1, P1 rib. On the third row (for the buttonhole band, which is typically the left front for women’s garments), work evenly spaced buttonholes as follows: work to the buttonhole position, BO 2 sts, then CO 2 sts in their place on the following row. Space buttonholes evenly, beginning about half an inch from the bottom hem and ending about half an inch below the neckline.
After completing the button bands, pick up stitches along the back neck and work 5 rows of K1, P1 rib before binding off. This creates a tidy collar finish that lies flat and frames the neckline beautifully.
Finishing Touches
Weave in all ends carefully using your tapestry needle, working the yarn tail in two different directions to secure it. Block your finished cardigan by soaking it in cool water with a small amount of wool wash, pressing out the excess water gently in a towel, and laying the garment flat to dry in its final measurements. Blocking is not optional for garments — it evens out the stitches, opens up the fabric, and can genuinely transform a good knit into a great one.
Sew your buttons to the button band (not the buttonhole band) using a length of your project yarn or a sturdy thread in a matching color. Position each button directly opposite its corresponding buttonhole, pin in place, and sew through all layers several times before securing the thread.
Yarn Substitution Tips
One of the great joys of having a free knitting pattern is the flexibility to choose whatever yarn suits your budget, your stash, or your climate. The Cleome Cardigan works in any smooth worsted weight yarn, but here are a few specific suggestions based on different priorities.
For a classic, warm, and widely available option, a standard merino wool like Lion Brand Wool-Ease, Cascade 220, or Paintbox Simply DK in a held double strand all produce lovely results. For a budget-friendly choice, Caron Simply Soft or Red Heart Soft are readily available at craft stores and knit up smoothly. For a more luxurious option, Malabrigo Rios, Rowan Pure Wool, or Brooklyn Tweed Shelter add beautiful depth and texture. For warmer climates or spring and summer wear, a cotton blend like Paintbox Cotton DK or Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton keeps things lightweight and breathable.
Whatever you choose, always check that your gauge matches before casting on for the full garment.
Customization Ideas
One of the best things about a simple, well-constructed free knitting pattern is how easy it is to make your own. The Cleome Cardigan lends itself beautifully to customization.
You could add a lace panel down each front edge, working a simple eyelet repeat alongside the main stockinette for a more decorative finish. You could work the entire yoke in seed stitch or moss stitch instead of stockinette, creating a textured, tweedy look without changing any of the shaping. You could work the hem and cuffs in a contrasting color to create a striped accent. You could even omit the button bands entirely and wear the cardigan open as a duster-style layer.
The body length is perhaps the easiest adjustment to make. For a cropped version, end the body at 7 or 8 inches from the underarm rather than 12. For a longline cardigan, extend the body to 18 or even 20 inches before the hem ribbing. The stitch count does not change; only the row count does.
Common Questions and Troubleshooting
My yoke seems puckered or tight — what went wrong? This usually means your gauge is slightly off or your increase rows are not being worked consistently. Check that you are placing your raglan markers correctly and that your yarn over or M1 increases sit neatly on the needle. Blocking will also help smooth out any unevenness in the yoke area.
The button band is ruffling at the edges. This means you picked up too many stitches. Rip back the band and try again, picking up slightly fewer stitches. A good rule of thumb is to pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows of knitting.
My sleeve is too tight at the underarm. Cast on a few extra underarm stitches — going from 4 to 6 or even 8 — and the sleeve opening will have more breathing room. You can also pick up a stitch or two at the corners of the underarm to close any small gaps that form there.
Can I knit this in the round instead of flat? Yes, with modifications. You would need to add steek stitches at the front opening or plan to cut your work open at the end, which is an advanced technique but absolutely achievable. For most knitters, working flat is simpler for a cardigan.
Why Knitters Love Top-Down Cardigans
The top-down construction used in the Cleome Cardigan is genuinely one of the most beginner-friendly approaches to garment knitting, and it is worth understanding why. Because you begin at the neckline and work downward, you can try the garment on as you go. Before separating the sleeves, you can slip the work onto a length of scrap yarn and put it on to check that the yoke depth and neck opening feel right. After separating the sleeves, you can check the body length directly on your body before deciding when to start the hem. This try-as-you-go approach takes so much of the anxiety out of garment knitting and makes size adjustments genuinely accessible rather than theoretical.
There is also the satisfaction of producing a seamless fabric. No sewing up side seams, no shoulder seams to graft, no sleeves to set in. The structure emerges organically as you knit, which feels a little like watching something grow rather than assembling something from parts.
A Note on Gauge and Sizing
It bears repeating, because garment knitting is different from accessory knitting in this one crucial way: gauge matters enormously. A hat that comes out a little large can be blocked down or simply pulled on; a cardigan that comes out three inches too wide at the body is a significant rework. Take the time to knit a proper gauge swatch — at least 6 inches by 6 inches — wash and block it the same way you intend to treat the finished garment, and measure it once it is dry. If your stitch count is off, adjust your needle size and swatch again. This step saves hours of potential frogging later.
Final Thoughts on the Cleome Cardigan
The Cleome Cardigan is one of those rare free knitting patterns that earns a permanent place in your project queue. It is accessible enough for an intermediate knitter to tackle with confidence, satisfying enough for an experienced knitter to enjoy without boredom, and wearable enough that the finished piece will see years of regular use. The construction is clean, the sizing is generous, and the design is timeless without being plain.
If you make this cardigan, take a photo and share it with the knitting community — whether that is on Ravelry, Instagram, or a local knitting group. Seeing how different yarns and colorways transform the same pattern is one of the great pleasures of the knitting world, and your version might be exactly the inspiration someone else needs to cast on their own.
Now, gather your yarn, check your needle size, and cast on. Your new favorite cardigan is waiting.
