Bergamot: A Free Lace Knitting Stitch Pattern

There is something quietly magical about lace knitting. The way a simple arrangement of yarn overs and decreases can transform a plain length of yarn into something that looks like frost on a windowpane, or the shadow of leaves on still water. If you have been knitting for a while and have been eyeing lace patterns with a mixture of longing and mild terror, the Bergamot stitch is the perfect place to begin your journey. And if you are already a seasoned lace knitter looking for a fresh pattern with a bit of personality, Bergamot will not disappoint you either.

This post is dedicated to the Bergamot lace knitting stitch pattern — what it looks like, how it works, what you can make with it, and of course, the full free pattern so you can cast on today. Welcome to String Geekery, where we believe yarn is best enjoyed with a hot cup of tea and absolutely no apologies for the size of your stash.

What Is the Bergamot Stitch Pattern?

The Bergamot stitch is a lace pattern characterized by delicate, repeating floral or medallion-like motifs arranged in an offset grid. The name evokes the bergamot orange — a citrus fruit with a floral, slightly spicy fragrance that you will recognize immediately if you have ever sipped a cup of Earl Grey tea. The stitch pattern captures some of that same quality: refined, aromatic, a little unexpected, and deeply satisfying.

Structurally, Bergamot is built from a combination of yarn overs, knit-two-togethers, and slip-slip-knits. These are the fundamental tools of lace knitting, and if you are familiar with any of them, you already have the technical vocabulary to work this pattern. The motifs are small enough to be manageable but complex enough to stay interesting across a larger project like a shawl or a table runner.

What makes Bergamot particularly appealing is its versatility. The pattern creates an open, airy fabric with well-defined motifs that read clearly even in variegated or semi-solid yarn, though it really sings in a solid or tonal colorway where the structure can fully show off. It is one of those stitch patterns that photographs beautifully, which is a small but very real joy when you want to share your finished work.

A Little About Lace Knitting

Before we get to the pattern, it is worth taking a moment to appreciate what makes lace knitting what it is — both for newcomers and as a refresher for the experienced.

Lace knitting creates open, decorative holes in fabric through the deliberate use of yarn overs. A yarn over is exactly what it sounds like: you bring the yarn over the right needle, creating an extra loop that becomes a new stitch on the next row. Because each yarn over adds a stitch, it must be paired with a decrease somewhere nearby to keep the stitch count even. Those decreases are the knit-two-together (k2tog) and the slip-slip-knit (ssk), which are essentially mirror images of each other — k2tog leans to the right, ssk leans to the left. Together, they give lace its characteristic diagonal lines and flow.

What distinguishes lace knitting from other textured techniques like cables or colorwork is that lace works with absence as much as presence. The holes are intentional. The spaces are part of the design. This can feel counterintuitive at first, especially if you are used to avoiding accidental yarn overs like they are a personal failing. In lace, you lean into them. You celebrate them. You put them exactly where they are supposed to go, and the fabric rewards you.

Blocking is the other great secret of lace knitting. Many lace patterns look like a crumpled, indecipherable mess fresh off the needles, and this is completely normal. When you wet block lace — soaking it in cool water, pressing out the excess moisture, and pinning it flat to dry — the stitches open up, the yarn relaxes, and the pattern reveals itself fully. If you have never blocked lace before, the transformation is genuinely astonishing. Keep this in mind as you work the Bergamot pattern. Trust the process, and trust the blocking.

Yarn and Needle Suggestions

Lace knitting works in almost any fiber, but some choices will serve you better than others depending on what you want to make.

For a traditional, heirloom-quality look, wool and wool blends are excellent choices. Wool has memory, meaning it springs back to shape after blocking and holds its structure well over time. A fingering-weight single-ply or lightly plied wool will give you an airy fabric with beautiful stitch definition. Merino is a popular choice because of its softness against the skin, and a merino-silk blend adds a subtle sheen that makes the yarn overs really glow.

For something more summery or for a piece like a table runner or decorative throw, plant-based fibers like cotton, linen, or bamboo work wonderfully. These fibers do not have the same elasticity as wool, so blocking behaves slightly differently — they tend to stay where you put them, which is actually an advantage for home decor projects. Keep in mind that plant fibers can feel stiff before washing, and they tend to soften beautifully with use.

Needle size will depend on your yarn weight and your personal gauge, but as a general starting point, fingering-weight yarn pairs well with US size 2 to US size 4 needles (2.75mm to 3.5mm), and laceweight yarn can go even smaller. For lace, many knitters find that going up a needle size or two compared to what the yarn label recommends creates a more open, airy fabric — which is usually exactly what you want. Swatch and block your swatch before committing to a large project, and do not skip this step even if you are confident in your gauge.

Abbreviations and Techniques

Here is a quick reference for all the abbreviations used in the Bergamot pattern:

k — knit

p — purl

yo — yarn over: bring yarn to front between needles, then over the right needle to create a new stitch

k2tog — knit two together: insert right needle through two stitches as if to knit, knit them together (right-leaning decrease)

ssk — slip, slip, knit: slip two stitches one at a time knitwise, then insert left needle through the front of both slipped stitches and knit them together (left-leaning decrease)

rep — repeat

pm — place marker

sm — slip marker

RS — right side (the side that faces outward in the finished piece)

WS — wrong side (the side that faces inward)

If you are new to any of these techniques, there are excellent video tutorials available for all of them. The ssk in particular trips up newer knitters sometimes because of the two separate slip steps, but once you have done it a dozen times it becomes completely automatic.

The Bergamot Lace Stitch Pattern

This pattern is written for a flat swatch worked back and forth in rows, which means it is easy to incorporate into shawl designs, scarves, stoles, blankets, or any flat project. For knitting in the round, you will need to adjust the wrong-side rows, working all purl stitches as knit stitches and vice versa, and reverse the direction of your yarn overs accordingly — this is a common adjustment for circular lace projects and becomes second nature with practice.

The Bergamot pattern is worked over a multiple of 10 stitches plus 1, with a 12-row repeat.

Setup: Cast on a multiple of 10 stitches plus 1. For a sample swatch, 31 stitches (three full repeats plus the edge stitch) works well.

Row 1 (RS): K1, yo, k3, ssk, k2tog, k3, yo, k1; rep from to end.

Row 2 (WS): Purl across.

Row 3 (RS): K1, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k2; rep from to end.

Row 4 (WS): Purl across.

Row 5 (RS): K1, k2, yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo, k3; rep from to end.

Row 6 (WS): Purl across.

Row 7 (RS): K1, k3, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k4; rep from to end.

Row 8 (WS): Purl across.

Row 9 (RS): K1, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3; rep from to end.

Row 10 (WS): Purl across.

Row 11 (RS): K1, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2; rep from to end.

Row 12 (WS): Purl across.

Repeat rows 1 through 12 for pattern.

Work at least three full repeats of the 12-row sequence to see the full Bergamot motif develop. The pattern creates a series of elongated diamond shapes with open centers, offset from row to row in a way that gives the fabric a flowing, organic rhythm. The yo-and-decrease pairs on rows 7 through 12 create the second half of the motif as a mirror image of the first, which is what gives the finished fabric its balanced, medallion-like quality.

Tips for Working the Pattern Successfully

Lace knitting rewards careful attention, and a few simple habits will make working the Bergamot pattern much more pleasant.

Use a row counter. The 12-row repeat is straightforward once you are familiar with it, but in the early rows of a new project, it is easy to lose your place. A row counter — either a physical one you click after each row or an app on your phone — removes the guesswork and lets you relax into the rhythm of the stitches.

Place markers between repeats. If you are working multiple repeats across a wide project, markers between each 10-stitch repeat will help you catch mistakes before they travel too far. When a yarn over and its corresponding decrease are both present within a single marked section, you know that section is correct. If you have an extra stitch or one missing, the marker helps you pinpoint where the error occurred.

Read your knitting. This is one of the most empowering skills in lace knitting, and it means learning to identify what each stitch should look like based on the stitch before it. As you become familiar with the Bergamot pattern, you will begin to recognize where the yarn overs should fall, where the decreases should lean, and what the developing fabric should look like row by row. This skill lets you correct mistakes as they happen rather than discovering them rows later.

Do not tink or frog lace in a hurry. “Tinking” is knitting backward stitch by stitch to undo a mistake, and while it is slower than frogging (pulling the needle out and unraveling), it is far safer for lace. The yarn overs are particularly vulnerable to being lost or twisted when you frog quickly. If you do need to rip back multiple rows, go slowly, and check each stitch as you pick it back up on the needle.

Consider a lifeline. A lifeline is a length of smooth, contrasting yarn threaded through every stitch of a completed row using a tapestry needle or the small hole in some interchangeable needle hubs. If something goes wrong, you can rip back to your lifeline with confidence, knowing every stitch is safely accounted for. Many lace knitters place a lifeline every 12 rows — that is, at the end of every full pattern repeat — so that the worst-case scenario is only losing one repeat’s worth of work.

Project Ideas Using the Bergamot Stitch

One of the most satisfying aspects of a stitch pattern like Bergamot is seeing how it transforms across different projects and scales. Here are a few ideas to spark your imagination.

A crescent shawl is probably the most natural home for a stitch pattern like this. The gentle increases along the spine of a crescent shape give you room to watch the Bergamot motifs unfold across a curved canvas, and the finished piece drapes beautifully around the shoulders. Worked in a fingering-weight merino-silk blend and blocked generously, a Bergamot crescent shawl is the kind of thing people stop you to ask about.

A rectangular stole worked in laceweight wool over five or seven pattern repeats gives you a classic, versatile accessory that works equally well over a summer dress or a winter coat. Because the stitch pattern is the same on both ends, it has the pleasing symmetry of something planned and intentional.

A table runner in cotton or linen brings the Bergamot pattern into your home. Work it in a natural undyed cotton for something that looks almost antique, or choose a crisp white linen for a bright, modern aesthetic. The open lace motifs let light and color from beneath the fabric show through, which creates a beautiful layered effect on a wooden table.

Smaller projects like bookmarks, ornament covers, or the border of a knitted washcloth are wonderful practice pieces. Working just two or three repeats of the Bergamot stitch lets you memorize the pattern before committing to a large project, and you end up with something charming and useful along the way.

Caring for Your Lace Knitting

Once you have finished your Bergamot project, a little care will keep it beautiful for years to come.

Hand wash lace in cool or lukewarm water with a small amount of gentle wool wash or mild shampoo. Do not agitate or wring the fabric. Support the full weight of the wet piece when lifting it from the water, as wet yarn is heavy and can stretch unexpectedly.

Press out excess water gently by rolling the piece in a clean towel and pressing — never twisting. Then lay it flat on a blocking mat, pin it to your desired dimensions using rust-proof pins, and allow it to dry completely before unpinning. This can take anywhere from a few hours to overnight depending on the fiber and the thickness of the fabric.

Store finished lace pieces folded loosely or rolled in acid-free tissue paper in a dry place away from direct sunlight. Wool lace in particular benefits from cedar or lavender sachets to discourage moths.

Why Lace Knitting Is Worth Your Time

There is a certain kind of knitter who looks at a lace pattern and immediately closes the tab, convinced it is not for them. If that is you, let me offer a gentle counterargument.

Lace knitting is slower than stockinette, yes. It requires more attention. It is easier to make mistakes and sometimes harder to fix them. But the process is also deeply absorbing in a way that plain knitting sometimes is not, and the results are extraordinary. There is real satisfaction in counting out those yarn overs and decreases, in watching a piece of plain string become something intricate and open and beautiful.

The Bergamot pattern is a particularly good entry point because the 12-row repeat is consistent and logical. After a few repeats, most knitters find they can work it without constantly referring to the written pattern. The rhythm becomes natural. The hands know what to do. That is the moment when lace knitting stops feeling like a puzzle and starts feeling like a conversation between you and the yarn — and that conversation, once started, is a hard one to put down.

Whether you are casting on your very first lace swatch or adding Bergamot to a long line of lace projects, I hope this pattern brings you many satisfying hours of knitting. If you make something with it, please share — there is nothing better than seeing what different knitters do with the same stitch pattern. Every yarn, every set of hands, every finished piece is a little different. That is the other magic of knitting, and it never gets old.

Happy knitting, and may your yarn overs always land exactly where they should.