5 Leaf Lace Cardigan Free Knitting Pattern
There is something quietly magical about a lace cardigan. It sits at the intersection of practicality and artistry — a garment you can layer over a summer dress, drape across your shoulders on a cool autumn evening, or wear with jeans on a lazy Sunday when you want to feel put-together without trying too hard. The leaf motif has been a beloved choice in knitting for generations, echoing the natural world in a way that feels timeless rather than trendy. This free knitting pattern for a 5 Leaf Lace Cardigan gives you all of that beauty in a wearable, approachable design that works well for confident beginners and experienced knitters alike.
Whether you are new to lace knitting or you have been working yarn overs and decreases since your grandmother first handed you a pair of needles, this pattern walks you through everything you need. From materials to gauge, from stitch instructions to finishing details, consider this your complete guide to creating a stunning leaf lace cardigan you will reach for again and again.
Why Knit a Leaf Lace Cardigan?
Before diving into the pattern itself, it is worth pausing to appreciate why this particular style of project is so rewarding to make.
Lace knitting has a reputation for being intimidating, and that reputation is not entirely undeserved. Early lace work, particularly traditional Shetland or Orenburg styles, involved fine thread, tiny needles, and charts so dense they required a magnifying glass. But modern lace patterns — especially those built around a single repeating motif like a leaf — are far more accessible. Once your fingers learn the rhythm of the repeat, the work almost flows on its own. There is a meditative quality to lace knitting that many knitters describe as deeply satisfying in a way that plain stockinette simply cannot match.
A cardigan, as opposed to a pullover, is also an excellent project choice for several practical reasons. You never have to struggle with a neckline you cannot get over your head. You can try it on as you go. And a well-fitted cardigan is genuinely one of the most versatile pieces in any wardrobe. Knitting your own means you control the length, the sleeve style, the fiber, and every detail that makes a garment truly yours.
The five-leaf design in this pattern creates a cascading, botanical look down the fronts and across the body of the cardigan. Each leaf is formed through a series of yarn overs and decreases that build a central spine flanked by gentle curves. When the leaves are stacked and offset, they create an impression of foliage caught in a light breeze. It is a beautiful effect that looks far more complicated than it actually is to knit.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials together before you cast on saves frustration later. Here is what this pattern calls for.
Yarn: Approximately 800–1,200 yards of DK weight yarn, depending on your size. A yarn with good stitch definition works best for lace, so look for a smooth plied yarn rather than a fuzzy or heavily textured one. Natural fibers like merino wool, cotton-linen blends, or bamboo blends all work beautifully. Superwash wool is a practical choice if you want easy care. For a lighter, more drapey cardigan, consider a silk blend or a linen-cotton. Avoid pure acrylic for this design, as it tends to obscure lace detail.
Needles: US size 4 (3.5mm) circular needle, at least 32 inches long, for working the body. A set of US size 4 double-pointed needles or a second short circular needle for the sleeves. You may also want a US size 3 (3.25mm) needle for the ribbed edges.
Notions: Stitch markers (at least 8), stitch holders or waste yarn, a tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends, blocking mats and pins, and 5 to 7 small buttons of your choice. A row counter is highly recommended when you are first learning the leaf repeat.
Gauge: 22 stitches and 30 rows over 4 inches in stockinette on US size 4 needles after blocking. Lace opens up significantly when wet-blocked, so please do not skip the blocking step at the end. Your gauge in the lace pattern itself should be approximately 24 stitches and 32 rows over 4 inches. Always swatch and block your swatch before beginning.
Sizing
This pattern is written for sizes XS through 3XL. The finished bust measurements are as follows, with 2 to 4 inches of positive ease built in for a comfortable, relaxed fit.
XS: 34 inches / S: 38 inches / M: 42 inches / L: 46 inches / XL: 50 inches / 2XL: 54 inches / 3XL: 58 inches
Instructions are written for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parentheses throughout. When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.
Understanding the Leaf Lace Pattern
The leaf motif in this cardigan is worked over a multiple of 12 stitches plus 1. Each leaf takes 16 rows to complete, and the leaves are staggered so that as one group of leaves finishes, the next begins, creating a continuous vertical flow of foliage.
Here is the stitch key you will use throughout:
K — knit
P — purl
YO — yarn over
K2tog — knit two stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
SSK — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
SK2P — slip one, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over (central double decrease)
Leaf Lace Chart (12-stitch repeat, worked flat)
Row 1 (RS): K5, YO, K1, YO, K5, SK2P; repeat from to last stitch, K1
Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl all stitches
Row 3 (RS): K4, SSK, YO, K3, YO, K2tog, K4; repeat from to last stitch, K1
Row 5 (RS): K3, SSK, K1, YO, K3, YO, K1, K2tog, K3; repeat from to last stitch, K1
Row 7 (RS): K2, SSK, K2, YO, K3, YO, K2, K2tog, K2; repeat from to last stitch, K1
Row 9 (RS): K1, SSK, K3, YO, K3, YO, K3, K2tog, K1; repeat from to last stitch, K1
Row 11 (RS): SSK, K4, YO, K3, YO, K4, K2tog; repeat from to last stitch, K1
Row 13 (RS): K1, YO, SSK, K3, SK2P, K3, K2tog, YO; repeat from to last stitch, K1
Row 15 (RS): K2, YO, SSK, K2, SK2P, K2, K2tog, YO, K1; repeat from to last stitch, K1
Row 16 (WS): Purl all stitches
This 16-row sequence forms one full leaf. The pattern repeats continuously up the body of the cardigan, with leaves staggered by offsetting the starting point of alternating leaf columns by 8 rows.
Take time to read through this chart before you begin. Work it on a small swatch — perhaps 25 stitches over 32 rows — until the movements feel natural. Most knitters find that by the second or third repeat, they can work the right-side rows from memory.
Pattern Instructions
Casting On and Back
Using your longer circular needle and the long-tail cast-on method, cast on the following number of stitches for your size:
XS: 97 / S: 109 / M: 121 / L: 133 / XL: 145 / 2XL: 157 / 3XL: 169
Work 8 rows of 1×1 ribbing (K1, P1) for the hem. On the last row of ribbing, place markers to divide the back from the two fronts as follows: work 24 (27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42) stitches for the right front, place marker, work 49 (55, 61, 67, 73, 79, 85) stitches for the back, place marker, work 24 (27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42) stitches for the left front.
Begin working the Leaf Lace pattern across all stitches, keeping the first and last 3 stitches of each front in garter stitch (knit every row) for the button bands. Continue until the body measures 14 (14, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15, 15) inches from the cast-on edge, ending on a wrong-side row.
Armhole Shaping: At the beginning of the next two rows, bind off 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) stitches for the armholes. You will now work each piece separately. Place the back stitches on a holder and work each front individually.
Right Front
With the right side facing, rejoin yarn to the right front stitches. Continue in the established lace pattern, working the armhole edge as follows: decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge every right-side row 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) times. Continue even until the armhole measures 7 (7.5, 8, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 9) inches.
Neck Shaping: At the beginning of the next wrong-side row (the neck edge), bind off 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) stitches. Then decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge every right-side row 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) times. Continue even until the armhole measures 9 (9.5, 10, 10, 10.5, 10.5, 11) inches. Place remaining shoulder stitches on a holder.
Work the left front to match, reversing all shaping.
Back
Return the back stitches to your needle. Rejoin yarn and work armhole shaping to match the fronts. Continue even until the back armhole matches the fronts in length. Work a three-needle bind-off to join the shoulders, or place all stitches on holders and seam using Kitchener stitch for a seamless finish.
Sleeves
This pattern features three-quarter length sleeves that end just below the elbow, which keeps the leaf lace visible on the forearm. For full-length sleeves, simply add additional length as desired.
Using double-pointed needles or your preferred method for small circumferences, pick up and knit the following number of stitches evenly around the armhole opening:
XS: 72 / S: 80 / M: 88 / L: 96 / XL: 104 / 2XL: 112 / 3XL: 120
Work the Leaf Lace pattern in the round, noting that wrong-side rows become knit rounds (since you are now working in the round, purl the wrong-side rounds if working the pattern flat around a joined circle, or adapt as needed). Place a marker at the underarm to mark the beginning of the round.
Decrease 1 stitch each side of the underarm marker every 8 rounds 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) times. Work even until sleeve measures 10 (10, 10.5, 10.5, 11, 11, 11) inches from the pickup row. Work 8 rows of 1×1 ribbing, then bind off loosely in pattern.
Finishing the Cardigan
Finishing is where a handknit garment transforms from a collection of fabric pieces into a true wearable treasure. Do not rush this stage.
Seaming: Use a mattress stitch to join any remaining side seams if you have worked the pieces flat. Mattress stitch creates a nearly invisible seam on the right side and is well worth learning if you haven’t already. Work slowly, picking up the bars between the first and second stitches on each side alternately.
Button Band: If you worked the garter stitch edges throughout, these will serve as your button bands. On the right front (for a woman’s cardigan), use a yarn needle to sew your buttons evenly spaced along the band, with the first button approximately 1 inch from the bottom edge and the last approximately 1 inch below the beginning of the neck shaping. Space the remaining buttons evenly between.
On the left front band, use a crochet hook or the tip of your knitting needle to create small yarn-over buttonholes at each position corresponding to your buttons. Alternatively, work a separate button band by picking up stitches along the front edge and working a few rows of ribbing with yarn-over buttonholes worked on the second row.
Collar: For a simple finishing touch, pick up stitches evenly around the neck opening and work 1 inch of 1×1 ribbing. Bind off loosely. A loose bind-off is essential here — a tight neckline is one of the most common finishing mistakes in cardigan knitting.
Weaving in Ends: Thread each tail onto your tapestry needle and weave it in by following the path of the existing stitches for at least an inch in two directions. In lace knitting, where the fabric has open holes, weaving in ends carefully is especially important to prevent them from working their way through to the right side.
Blocking Your Cardigan
Blocking is not optional with lace — it is the step that truly opens the pattern and transforms the fabric. Without blocking, even beautifully worked lace can look lumpy and undefined. After blocking, the same fabric becomes crisp, open, and breathtaking.
To block your finished cardigan, soak it in cool water with a small amount of wool wash for about 20 minutes. Gently press out excess water without wringing or twisting the fabric. Lay it flat on your blocking mats and pin it to the finished measurements, taking time to open up the leaf motifs by pinning around the edges of each leaf repeat. Allow it to dry completely before unpinning — this may take 24 hours or more depending on your climate and yarn fiber.
If you used a plant fiber like cotton or linen, a light pressing with a damp cloth and a warm iron can also be effective.
Tips for Success
A few notes from experience that can make this project significantly more enjoyable from start to finish.
Use a lifeline. Thread a piece of smooth contrast-colored yarn through your live stitches every 16 rows (at the end of each complete leaf repeat). If you make an error and need to rip back, you will only ever have to go back to the most recent lifeline rather than all the way to the beginning.
Mark your right-side rows. A simple locking stitch marker on the right side of the fabric at the beginning of a row helps you keep track of which direction you are working, especially when you put the project down and come back to it later.
Read the chart before knitting each row. Take a moment to look at the full row before beginning it. This helps you anticipate where the yarn overs and decreases fall and catch potential errors before they happen.
Count your stitches after every right-side row for the first few repeats. Lace patterns live and die by the stitch count. A single dropped yarn over can throw off the count and leave you debugging rows later.
Choose your buttons thoughtfully. Small, simple buttons in a natural material — shell, wood, or bone — complement the botanical theme of this design beautifully. Avoid large or heavily decorative buttons that compete with the lace.
Adapting This Pattern
One of the great joys of knitting your own garments is the ability to adapt a pattern to suit your preferences.
If you prefer a longer cardigan, simply work additional rows in the body before beginning the armhole shaping. For a cropped version, subtract length from the body section. The lace repeat is 16 rows, so try to add or subtract in multiples of 16 to keep the leaf motifs complete.
To make this cardigan sleeveless, simply skip the sleeve section and finish the armhole edges with a few rows of ribbing picked up around the opening.
For a more open, beach-cover style cardigan
