Koala Amigurumi Pattern – Free – Hooked On Hook
There is something undeniably charming about a tiny crocheted koala sitting on your shelf, staring back at you with its button eyes and oversized ears. Whether you are new to amigurumi or have a basket full of finished critters to prove your dedication, this free koala amigurumi pattern is designed to be both satisfying to make and genuinely adorable when finished. At Hooked On Hook, we believe that free patterns should be just as thorough and well-written as any paid download, so we have packed this post with every detail you need to bring your little koala to life.
Before we dive into the pattern itself, let us talk about what makes a koala such a wonderful amigurumi subject. Koalas have a very recognizable silhouette — round body, large round ears with fluffy inner tufts, a prominent wide nose, and a compact little face. In crochet form, these features translate beautifully into simple shapes. Most of the pieces are worked in the round, which is the foundation of amigurumi, and the assembly is straightforward once you have all your pieces laid out. The result is a small stuffed koala that looks polished and professional even if you have only completed a handful of projects before.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials organized before you begin will make the process much smoother. Here is everything you need for this free koala amigurumi pattern.
Yarn: You will need a light gray yarn and a dark gray or charcoal yarn for the body, head, and ears. A small amount of white or off-white yarn is useful for the inner ears and belly if you want that two-tone look. Worsted weight yarn works well for a koala that sits comfortably in the palm of your hand, but you can go up or down in weight depending on the size you prefer.
Hook: A 3.5 mm crochet hook is recommended for worsted weight yarn to keep your stitches tight and prevent the stuffing from showing through. If you are working with a lighter yarn, scale down to a 2.5 mm or 3.0 mm hook accordingly.
Safety eyes: Two 9 mm or 12 mm black safety eyes give your koala that characteristic wide-eyed expression. If you are making this for a small child under three years old, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead and skip the safety hardware.
Fiberfill stuffing: Polyester fiberfill is the standard choice. Use enough to give your koala a firm, round shape without making it lumpy.
Stitch markers: A few locking stitch markers help you keep track of your magic ring and round beginnings, especially as you get into longer rounds.
Yarn needle: You will need a blunt tapestry needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Scissors: A sharp pair dedicated to your craft supplies makes a real difference.
Optional: A small amount of pink embroidery floss or yarn for the nose detailing and a few lengths of black embroidery floss for the mouth.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
This pattern is written in standard US crochet terminology. Here is a quick reference for the abbreviations used throughout.
MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook into the front loop of the next two stitches and single crochet them together)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
st — Stitch
sts — Stitches
rnd — Round
rep — Repeat
If you are new to amigurumi, the magic ring is one of the first techniques worth practicing before you start. It allows you to start working in the round without leaving a hole in the center of your piece. There are plenty of video tutorials available online if written instructions feel unclear.
Gauge
Exact gauge is not critical for amigurumi the way it is for garments, but here is a general reference so you can anticipate the finished size. Working with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5 mm hook, 6 single crochets and 7 rounds should measure approximately 2 inches by 2 inches. The finished koala worked in worsted weight will be approximately 5 to 6 inches tall when assembled.
The Pattern
Head
The head is worked in light gray yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc rep 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc rep 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc rep 6 times. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc rep 6 times. (42 sts)
Rnd 8 through Rnd 13: Sc in each st around. (42 sts)
Rnd 14: Sc 5, dec rep 6 times. (36 sts)
Rnd 15: Sc 4, dec rep 6 times. (30 sts)
At this point, attach your safety eyes between rounds 9 and 10, approximately 10 to 12 stitches apart. This spacing gives the face a wide, open expression that reads as very koala-like. Once your eyes are placed and secure, continue decreasing.
Rnd 16: Sc 3, dec rep 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 17: Sc 2, dec rep 6 times. (18 sts)
Stuff the head firmly now. Add stuffing gradually and check the shape as you go. The goal is a smooth, round sphere without any flat spots.
Rnd 18: Sc 1, dec rep 6 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 19: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by weaving through the front loops of all 6 stitches and pulling tight.
Body
The body is worked in light gray yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc rep 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc rep 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc rep 6 times. (36 sts)
Rnd 7 through Rnd 11: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)
Rnd 12: Sc 4, dec rep 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 13: Sc in each st around. (30 sts)
Rnd 14: Sc 3, dec rep 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 15: Sc in each st around. (24 sts)
Rnd 16: Sc 2, dec rep 6 times. (18 sts)
Stuff the body firmly.
Rnd 17: Sc 1, dec rep 6 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 18: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off and close, leaving a long tail for sewing to the head.
Arms (Make Two)
The arms are worked in light gray yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3 through Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 1, dec rep 4 times. (8 sts)
Rnd 7 through Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (8 sts)
Stuff the paw portion only, leaving the upper arm unstuffed. Flatten the opening and sl st across to close. Leave a long tail for sewing.
Legs (Make Two)
The legs are worked in light gray yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3 through Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 1, dec rep 4 times. (8 sts)
Rnd 7 through Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (8 sts)
Stuff the foot portion and flatten the opening. Sl st across to close, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Ears (Make Two Outer Ears and Two Inner Ears)
Outer ear (worked in light gray):
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc rep 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5 through Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (24 sts)
Do not stuff the ears. Flatten and set aside.
Inner ear (worked in white or off-white):
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep 6 times. (18 sts)
Flatten and set aside.
To assemble the ears, place the inner ear on top of the outer ear and whip stitch or single crochet them together around the edge, joining three sides and leaving the bottom open for attachment to the head. The inner ear piece will be slightly smaller and will sit neatly in the center, giving that fluffy, layered look that real koala ears have.
Nose
The nose is the feature that really brings a koala’s face together. You have a couple of options here.
Option one: Using dark gray or charcoal yarn and your yarn needle, embroider a wide oval shape directly onto the face between rounds 10 and 12, centered between the eyes. Build up multiple layers of horizontal stitches until you have a slightly raised, prominent nose. Finish with a vertical stitch running down from the center of the nose, then branch into a small V-shape for the mouth.
Option two: Crochet a small flat oval in dark gray and sew it onto the face. To make the oval, chain 4, then work 3 sc into the second chain from the hook, sc in the next chain, and 3 sc into the last chain. Rotate and work back along the other side of the chain. Join with a sl st and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Either method gives a satisfying result. The embroidered version is faster; the crocheted oval has a bit more dimension.
Assembly
Assembly is where your koala truly comes to life, and taking your time here pays off in a finished piece that looks intentional and professional.
Start by pinning all your pieces in place before you commit to sewing anything. Use straight pins or stitch markers to position the head on the body, the ears on the head, and the limbs on the body. Step back and look at the overall proportions from different angles. Koala ears sit quite high on the head and fairly far apart, almost at the top. Getting this right is the difference between a koala that reads as a koala and one that looks like a generic bear.
Once you are happy with the positioning, sew the head to the body using your yarn tail and a yarn needle, working through the stitches of both pieces in a consistent pattern. Use a whip stitch and pull firmly but not so tightly that you distort the shape. Go around the joining line at least twice for security.
Sew the ears to the top of the head next. Leave a small gap between them — koala ears look best when they are clearly separated, not touching at the crown. Stitch down the entire bottom edge of each ear so it sits flat and secure.
Attach the arms to the sides of the body just below the neck, angling them slightly forward. Sew the legs to the lower front of the body. If you want your koala to be able to sit upright on its own, position the legs so that they extend forward slightly rather than hanging straight down.
Finally, sew or embroider the nose onto the face and add the mouth. A few stitches of black embroidery floss in a gentle curve give a subtle, sweet smile that suits the koala’s peaceful expression perfectly.
Tips for the Best Results
Working amigurumi with tight tension makes the biggest difference in how your finished piece looks. If you can see the stuffing through your stitches, try going down half a hook size. Your fabric should feel dense and have no visible gaps.
The invisible decrease is worth taking the time to learn if you have not already. It creates a much smoother surface than a standard decrease and makes the decreasing rounds on the head and body look nearly seamless.
When stuffing, add fiberfill gradually rather than cramming a large amount in at once. This gives you much more control over the final shape and helps you avoid lumps and flat spots.
If your yarn has any fuzz or halo to it, like a mohair blend, it can obscure your stitch definition but also create a wonderfully soft, lifelike texture for an animal like a koala, which actually does have fairly fuzzy fur. This is one project where a slightly textured yarn works beautifully.
Customization Ideas
One of the great things about amigurumi is how easily they can be personalized. Here are a few directions you might take this pattern.
Try working the body and head in a slightly darker shade of gray and the ears and belly area in a lighter or white-tipped yarn to mimic the variation in a real koala’s coat. You can also add a tiny eucalyptus leaf prop by crocheting an elongated oval in green and tucking it into one of the koala’s arms.
For a baby koala, simply use a thinner yarn and a smaller hook, scaling everything down while keeping the same stitch counts. The proportions will stay correct and the resulting joeys are absolutely tiny and irresistible.
Want to make a koala with a bit more personality? Try adjusting the eye placement or adding embroidered eyebrows. A set of slightly furrowed brows in a darker yarn gives your koala a wise, contemplative look that feels very on-brand for an animal famous for sleeping up to twenty-two hours a day.
How to Use Your Finished Koala
These crocheted koalas make wonderful gifts for all ages, with appropriate adjustments for young children as noted above. They are popular as nursery decor, desk companions, travel-sized comfort toys, and additions to nature-themed amigurumi collections. If you make several, they can be arranged as a small family grouping, which looks particularly sweet on a bookshelf or windowsill.
They also photograph beautifully for social media. Natural light and a simple wooden or plant-filled background tend to complement the gray tones of the yarn. If you share your finished koala online, we would love to see it — tag your photos so the Hooked On Hook community can cheer you on.
Final Thoughts
Free crochet patterns should make you feel supported from the first magic ring to the final sewn-on ear, and that is exactly what this free koala amigurumi pattern was designed to do. Whether this is your first amigurumi or your hundredth, the process of turning a few skeins of yarn and a little fiberfill into a creature with personality is one of those crafting experiences that never really gets old.
Take your time, trust the process, and do not be discouraged if
