Free Molly the Mouse Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
There is something almost magical about turning a simple ball of yarn into a tiny creature with a personality all its own. Amigurumi, the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed animals and characters, has captured the hearts of crafters around the world for good reason. These little figures are endlessly customizable, satisfying to make, and absolutely irresistible to give as gifts. Today I am sharing a complete free pattern for Molly the Mouse, a sweet little amigurumi mouse with round ears, a delicate tail, and just enough charm to become your new favorite project.
Whether you are brand new to amigurumi or have a basket full of finished critters already sitting on your shelf, this pattern is written clearly enough for beginners while still offering plenty of room for the more experienced crocheter to add their own creative touches. Grab your hook, pick your favorite yarn, and let’s bring Molly to life.
A Little About Amigurumi Before We Begin
Amigurumi originated in Japan and the word itself is a combination of “ami,” meaning crocheted or knitted, and “nuigurumi,” meaning stuffed doll. The style became internationally popular in the early 2000s and has only grown since then. What makes amigurumi so distinctive is the use of the magic ring to start pieces, working in continuous rounds rather than rows, and the characteristic tight gauge that keeps the stuffing hidden inside.
One of the things that makes amigurumi so approachable is that most pieces use only a handful of basic stitches. If you know how to single crochet, increase, and decrease, you have everything you need to make the vast majority of amigurumi patterns, including Molly.
Materials You Will Need
Before diving into the pattern, gather your supplies. Having everything on hand before you start makes the process much smoother.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn in your chosen colors. For a classic mouse, you might choose a soft grey, warm taupe, or even a dusty rose. You will also want a small amount of pink for the inner ears and nose, and a contrasting color or the same color for the tail. A lighter color works beautifully for the belly if you want to add a little detail.
Hook: A 3.5mm crochet hook is ideal for worsted weight yarn when making amigurumi. The tighter-than-usual gauge keeps the stuffing from peeking through.
Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill, enough to firmly stuff the body and head.
Safety eyes: Two 9mm or 10mm black safety eyes. If you are making Molly for a baby or very young child, skip the safety eyes and embroider the eyes with black yarn instead.
Yarn needle: For sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Stitch marker: To mark the beginning of each round.
Scissors.
Optional: A small piece of wire or pipe cleaner for the tail to give it a poseable shape, small scraps of felt for embellishments, or a tiny ribbon for Molly’s neck.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
This pattern uses US crochet terminology.
MR — Magic ring
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook through front loops of next two stitches, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops)
st(s) — Stitch(es)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
Gauge and Finished Size
Using worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook, finished Molly measures approximately 5 to 6 inches tall when assembled. Gauge is not critical for amigurumi as long as your fabric is tight enough that stuffing does not show through.
Pattern Notes
Work in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless the pattern specifically tells you to. Move your stitch marker up at the beginning of each round to keep track of where you are. When stuffing, add fiberfill gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end. This makes it easier to get an even, firm result.
Molly the Mouse Free Crochet Pattern
Head
Start with your main body color.
Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
Round 7: Sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 sts)
Rounds 8 through 14: Sc in each st around. (42 sts, 7 rounds)
Before closing the head further, attach safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 8 to 10 stitches apart. If embroidering, you will add eyes after assembly.
Round 15: Sc 5, dec repeat around. (36 sts)
Round 16: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly now.
Round 17: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 18: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 19: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Finish stuffing.
Round 20: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by weaving through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pulling tight. Weave in the end.
Body
Start with your main body color.
Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Rounds 6 through 9: Sc in each st around. (30 sts, 4 rounds)
If you would like to add a belly detail, switch to your lighter belly color now and work the next two rounds. Otherwise, continue in your main color.
Rounds 10 through 14: Sc in each st around. (30 sts, 5 rounds)
Round 15: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 16: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
Begin stuffing the body firmly here.
Round 17: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Finish stuffing.
Round 18: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off and close as for the head. Leave a long tail for sewing to the head.
Ears (Make 2 outer ears in main color, 2 inner ears in pink)
Outer Ear:
Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Inner Ear:
Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
To assemble each ear, hold the inner ear on top of the outer ear (wrong sides together). The inner ear is slightly smaller and will sit neatly inside. Using your yarn needle and the inner ear tail, whipstitch the inner ear to the outer ear around the edges. Flatten the ear and sew the bottom edges together at a slight angle, creating a gentle curve that will make the ear stand naturally on Molly’s head.
Arms (Make 2)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rounds 3 and 4: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 5: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (8 sts)
Rounds 6 through 12: Sc in each st around. (8 sts, 7 rounds)
Stuff lightly, just enough to give the arms a little body without making them stiff. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Legs (Make 2)
Round 1: MR, 8 sc into ring. (8 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (16 sts)
Round 3: Sc in each st around. (16 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Rounds 5 through 10: Sc in each st around. (12 sts, 6 rounds)
Stuff moderately. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Tail
You can make the tail in two ways depending on your preference. The crocheted chain method is the simplest, while the twisted yarn cord method gives a rounder, more finished look.
Crocheted Chain Tail: Using your main color or a contrasting color, make a chain of 25 to 30 stitches. Slip stitch back along the chain for a slight curl, or leave it as a simple chain for a more delicate look. Fasten off with long tails on each end for attaching.
Twisted Cord Tail: Cut three strands of yarn each approximately 30 inches long. Tie them together at one end, anchor that end (a door handle works well), and twist the strands tightly in one direction. Fold the twisted length in half and let it twist back on itself. Tie off the open end. This creates a lovely, smooth cord about 6 to 7 inches long.
Nose
Using pink yarn, embroider a small triangular or oval nose just below center on the front of the head, approximately at round 12. Use three or four satin stitches layered over one another for a plump, dimensional look. You can also add a few tiny straight stitches in dark yarn beneath the nose for a simple mouth if you like.
Assembling Molly
Assembly is where your mouse truly comes to life, and taking your time here pays off beautifully.
Head to body: Position the head on top of the body. The flat bottom of the head should rest on the top of the body. Use your yarn needle and the long tail from the body to whipstitch the two pieces together, working all the way around. Add a pinch more stuffing through the opening before you close it completely if things look a little flat.
Ears: Position the ears on either side of the top of the head, roughly between rounds 3 and 6. The slight curve you created at the base of each ear should face forward. Pin them in place before sewing if you like. Sew each ear securely using the remaining tail.
Arms: Pin the arms on either side of the body, roughly at the shoulders, between rounds 15 and 17 of the body. The rounded end (the hand) should face downward. Sew each arm in place securely, going through the body fabric and back through the arm several times for stability.
Legs: Attach the legs to the bottom sides of the body, pointing downward. Position them so that Molly can sit stably. Sew each leg on firmly.
Tail: Attach the tail to the very back center of the body at the bottom, just above where the body closes. Sew the tail on securely, hiding the knot inside the body seam.
Personalizing Your Molly
One of the greatest joys of making amigurumi is that no two finished pieces ever look exactly alike, and Molly is a perfect canvas for your own creative touches.
Color variations: A white Molly with pink accents is sweet and classic. A deep charcoal or brown mouse feels more realistic. Try a lavender or teal mouse for something whimsical and unexpected. Yarn with a slight sheen or soft halo can completely change the character’s personality.
Accessories: A tiny crochet bow (just a small chain folded and tied) sewn between the ears transforms Molly into a little lady. A miniature crocheted scarf wrapped around the neck is a perfect autumn or winter touch. Use a scrap of ribbon for a delicate collar.
Expressions: Small changes to the face make a big difference. Eyebrows embroidered with two small stitches above the safety eyes can give Molly a worried, curious, or happy expression. A tiny open mouth embroidered with a curved stitch adds instant sweetness.
Outfits: If you want to go further, there are countless tiny doll clothing patterns online that can be adapted for a mouse Molly’s size. A simple gathered skirt or a tiny pair of overalls would be absolutely darling.
Tips for the Best Results
Working in amigurumi requires a slightly different mindset than other types of crochet, so here are some things to keep in mind as you work through this pattern.
Tension is everything. Crochet a little more tightly than you naturally would. If you can see gaps in your fabric, your tension is too loose and the stuffing will show. Try going down a hook size if needed.
Stuff firmly and evenly. Lumpy stuffing leads to lumpy finished pieces. Add fiberfill in small amounts, poking it into every corner with a chopstick or the eraser end of a pencil.
Count your stitches every round. It is easy to lose track, especially in the longer even rounds. Using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round and counting at the end of each round saves a lot of frustration.
Weave in ends carefully. With small pieces, there is not a lot of real estate inside for hiding ends, so run them through several layers of fabric in different directions before trimming them short.
Do not rush the assembly. Taking time to pin pieces before sewing and checking the placement from multiple angles results in a much more polished finished mouse.
Caring for Your Finished Molly
If Molly will be used as a toy, it is a good idea to make her washable from the start. Choose acrylic yarn rather than wool (which can felt when agitated in water), and use polyfill stuffing that can go through a washing machine. Hand washing in cool water is gentlest and will help Molly keep her shape for years. If using safety eyes, these are machine wash safe; just place Molly in a mesh laundry bag for extra protection.
For display mice made with more delicate fibers, spot cleaning with a slightly damp cloth is the safest approach.
Sharing Your Molly
If you make Molly, I would absolutely love to see her. Sharing your finished projects is one of the most rewarding parts of the crafting community, and every crafter’s interpretation of the same pattern brings something new and delightful. Tag your photos on social media, share them in amigurumi groups, or send a photo to a friend. Handmade gifts carry a warmth and meaning that store-bought ones simply cannot match, and a crocheted mouse made with care is a treasure.
This pattern is completely free to use for personal projects and for gifts. If you would like to sell finished items made from this pattern, please do so but give a credit back to the pattern. Do not reproduce or redistribute the written pattern itself without permission.
Final Thoughts
Molly the Mouse is the kind of pattern that works up quickly enough to feel satisfying and is detailed enough to feel like a real accomplishment. She makes a wonderful first amigurumi for a beginner who has already learned basic single crochet, and she is a relaxing and enjoyable project for an experienced maker looking for something charming to work
