Free Knitting Pattern for a Melodica Coin Purse

There is something deeply satisfying about knitting a small, functional object that you can finish in an evening and actually use every day. Coin purses sit in that sweet spot between practical and charming, and this Melodica Coin Purse pattern is one of those projects that draws compliments every single time you pull it out at the register. The textured stitch pattern gives the finished purse an almost musical, rippling quality — hence the name — and the compact construction makes it a wonderful stash buster for leftover fingering or DK weight yarn.

Whether you are a beginner looking to move past scarves or an experienced knitter who wants a quick, satisfying make between larger projects, this free pattern has everything you need. Below you will find a full materials list, gauge information, abbreviations, step-by-step instructions, finishing tips, and plenty of notes to help you customize the purse to suit your own style.

Why You Will Love This Pattern

Before diving into the stitches, it helps to understand what makes this particular coin purse design worth your time. The Melodica Coin Purse is worked flat in two matching panels, then seamed on three sides with a simple zipper inserted along the top. There is no picking up stitches around a curved edge, no fiddly short-row shaping, and no complicated colorwork chart to follow.

The stitch pattern itself — a combination of knit and purl stitches arranged in a simple wave sequence — creates a gentle horizontal texture that looks far more complex than it actually is. Once you have knitted the first eight rows, you will find that your fingers fall naturally into the rhythm without needing to consult the pattern at all.

The finished purse measures approximately four inches wide by three inches tall, which is the perfect size for coins, folded bills, a lip balm, a spare key, or a transit card. It fits inside a larger bag without adding bulk, and it is sturdy enough to survive daily use thanks to the tight gauge and the structure the seaming provides.

Materials You Will Need

Getting your materials together before you cast on will make the whole process smoother. Here is what you need for one completed coin purse.

Yarn: Approximately 40 to 50 yards of fingering weight yarn (or 30 to 40 yards of DK weight for a slightly chunkier version). Almost any fiber works well here. A wool or wool-blend yarn gives you excellent stitch definition, which really lets the wave texture shine. Cotton is a wonderful choice if you want a purse that is a bit more structured and holds its shape very firmly. Acrylic works beautifully if you want easy-care washability or if you are working from stash yarn. This is also a perfect project for those small leftover skeins that are too beautiful to discard but too small to use in a larger project.

Needles: US size 1 (2.25mm) for fingering weight, or US size 3 (3.25mm) for DK weight. You can use straight needles, double-pointed needles, or a short circular — whatever you are most comfortable with for flat knitting. The key is achieving a fabric that feels firm and dense rather than floppy, so do not be afraid to go down a needle size from what the yarn label recommends.

Notions: One four-inch zipper in a coordinating or contrasting color, a tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends, scissors, locking stitch markers (optional but helpful), and sewing thread with a hand-sewing needle to attach the zipper. A small amount of fabric glue or zipper tape can also help hold the zipper in place while you stitch it down, though this is entirely optional.

Gauge

Fingering weight: 34 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch after blocking

DK weight: 26 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch after blocking

Gauge matters more than people often expect on a small project like this, because even a small difference in stitch size will change the finished dimensions enough to affect whether your zipper fits correctly. Take ten minutes to knit a small swatch, wash it the same way you plan to wash the finished purse, let it dry, and then measure. If your gauge is off, adjust your needle size accordingly. For this pattern specifically, erring slightly on the tighter side produces a nicer result than erring on the looser side.

Abbreviations

Reading a knitting pattern is much easier once you have the abbreviations sorted. Here is a quick reference guide for everything used in this pattern.

CO — cast on
BO — bind off
K — knit
P — purl
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
St/sts — stitch/stitches
Rep — repeat
Sl1 — slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in back (unless otherwise noted)
PM — place marker
SM — slip marker
K2tog — knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
SSK — slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
YO — yarn over

Pattern Notes

A few things worth reading before you begin.

The purse is worked in two identical panels. You will knit the same set of instructions twice, producing a front panel and a back panel. The panels are then placed with right sides facing outward (not together) and seamed along the bottom and two side edges using a mattress stitch. This method creates a clean, nearly invisible seam on the outside of the purse.

The wave stitch pattern used here is an eight-row repeat over a multiple of six stitches plus three. The stitch count for this purse is 39 stitches for the fingering weight version and 29 stitches for the DK weight version. Both give you the correct width to accommodate a four-inch zipper.

If you would like to adjust the size of the purse, simply cast on any multiple of six stitches plus three, and adjust the number of rows until the panel reaches your desired height. Keep in mind that you will also need to source a zipper to match any resized width.

The Pattern

Casting On and Beginning the Wave Texture

Using your chosen needles and yarn, cast on 39 stitches (fingering weight) or 29 stitches (DK weight).

If you are unfamiliar with the long-tail cast on, this is a wonderful pattern to practice it on, because the long-tail cast on creates a neat, elastic bottom edge that will sit beautifully at the base of the seam. A simple knitted cast on also works perfectly well.

Setup Row (WS): Purl across all stitches.

Now begin the wave stitch pattern.

Row 1 (RS): K3, YO, K1, YO, K2tog, K3; rep from to end.

Row 2 (WS): P3, P2tog tbl, P1, P2, P3; rep from to end.

Note: P2tog tbl means purl two stitches together through the back loop. This creates a neat, left-leaning decrease on the wrong side that mirrors your yarn overs on the right side.

Row 3 (RS): K3, YO, K1, YO, K2, SSK; rep from to end.

Row 4 (WS): P across all stitches.

Row 5 (RS): K2tog, K3, YO, K1, YO, K2, SSK; rep from to last 3 sts, K3.

Adjust the beginning and end of Row 5 slightly based on your stitch count if needed. The key is that decreases and yarn overs balance each other so your stitch count stays the same across every row.

Row 6 (WS): P3, P2, P2tog tbl, P1, P2; rep from to end.

Row 7 (RS): SSK, K2, YO, K1, YO, K2, SSK; rep from to last 4 sts, YO, K1, YO, K3.

Row 8 (WS): P across all stitches.

These eight rows form one complete repeat of the wave pattern. Work the eight-row repeat a total of four times (giving you 32 pattern rows plus the setup row), then work Rows 1 through 4 once more. This brings the panel to the correct height for a three-inch finished purse.

If you are working in DK weight, work the eight-row repeat three times, then work Rows 1 through 4 once more. The thicker yarn will bring you to the correct height with fewer repeats.

Once you have completed all your pattern rows, end with a wrong side row so that your needle is ready to bind off on the right side.

Bind Off Row (RS): Bind off all stitches loosely in knit. The bind off edge will become the top of the purse where the zipper is attached, so keeping it loose and even is important. If you tend to bind off tightly, try using a needle one or two sizes larger for this row alone.

Cut your yarn, leaving a six-inch tail, and pull through the last loop.

Repeat these instructions from the beginning to create the second panel. Both panels should be identical when you finish.

Finishing the Purse

The finishing process is what transforms two flat rectangles into a polished, functional coin purse. Take your time here and the results will look truly professional.

Blocking the Panels

Before seaming, block both panels. For wool or wool-blend yarns, wet blocking works beautifully: soak the panels in cool water for about fifteen minutes, gently press out the excess water in a clean towel (do not wring), and then lay the panels flat on a foam blocking mat or a folded towel. Pin them to the correct dimensions — approximately four inches wide by three and a half inches tall — and allow them to dry completely. The wave pattern will open up and become much more defined after blocking, and the panels will be easier to seam when they are flat and even.

Cotton and acrylic yarns can be steam blocked if you prefer, holding an iron a few inches above the surface without touching the fabric directly.

Seaming the Panels

Place both panels with their right sides facing outward (public side toward you) and their bind-off edges aligned at the top. Thread a tapestry needle with a length of yarn in the same color as your purse, roughly eighteen inches long.

Using mattress stitch, seam the bottom edge of the purse first. To work mattress stitch on the cast-on edge: lay the two panels flat with their cast-on edges touching, and pick up the bar between the first and second stitch on one panel, then the corresponding bar on the other panel. Continue in this way across the entire bottom edge, pulling the yarn snug as you go but not so tight that it puckers. When you reach the corner, secure the seam with a small knot on the wrong side and weave in the end.

Next, seam the two short side edges in the same way, working from the bottom corner up to the top of the panels on each side. Leave the top edge (the bind-off edge) completely open — this is where your zipper will go.

When both side seams are complete, weave in all remaining yarn tails on the wrong side of the work.

Attaching the Zipper

Turn the purse so you are looking at the inside. Place your four-inch zipper inside the opening at the top of the purse with the zipper pull on the right side (the outside) and the zipper tape facing the inside of the purse. The teeth of the zipper should sit just below the top edge of the knitting, with the tape sandwiched between the two layers.

If you find it helpful, use a few pins or a small amount of fabric glue tape to hold the zipper in position while you stitch. Allow any adhesive to dry fully before sewing.

Thread a hand-sewing needle with a length of thread that matches either your yarn or your zipper tape. Using a small, firm backstitch, sew the zipper tape to the knitted edge on both the front and back panels. Work slowly and keep your stitches even, picking up only the top layer of yarn at the bind-off edge rather than sewing all the way through both panels. When you reach the end of the zipper on each side, tuck the zipper tape ends neatly toward the inside of the purse and secure them with a few stitches.

A whip stitch also works well for attaching the zipper if you prefer it to backstitch — some knitters find it easier to keep the stitches even with a whip stitch. Either method produces a secure result.

Customization Ideas

One of the joys of a small pattern like this is how easy it is to make it your own. Here are a few ideas to inspire you.

Stripes: Work the wave pattern in two alternating colors, switching every two rows to create a striped effect that interacts beautifully with the wave texture. Carry the unused color loosely up the side edge to avoid extra ends.

Colorwork Border: Work the first and last four rows of each panel in a contrasting color for a simple, striking frame around the wave texture.

Embroidery: Once the purse is finished and the zipper is attached, add a small embroidered motif — a flower, a star, initials, or any simple design — to the front panel. Wool yarn takes embroidery especially well.

Lining: Cut a piece of cotton lining fabric slightly smaller than the inside dimensions of the finished purse, fold the raw edges under, and whip stitch it in place on the inside. This hides the seams, protects the knitted fabric from the inside, and gives the purse a very professional, gift-worthy finish.

Wrist Loop: Before attaching the zipper, fold a short length of ribbon or a crocheted cord in half and position the folded end at one of the top corners of the purse, sandwiching it between the zipper tape and the knitting. Sew it in place securely as you attach the zipper. This creates a small loop you can slip around your wrist when paying for things, so the purse never accidentally falls.

Tips for Knitting Success

A few final thoughts that will make your knitting process smoother from start to finish.

Check your stitch count at the end of every right-side row, especially when you are first learning the wave pattern. The yarn overs and decreases should always balance out, leaving you with the same number of stitches you started with. If you ever find yourself with extra or missing stitches, it is much easier to find and fix the error on the current row than to discover the problem six rows later.

Use locking stitch markers at the beginning and end of each row if you tend to lose track of where your row starts. On a small project, it is very easy to accidentally pick up a stitch from the cast-on tail or skip the last stitch of a row.

If the wave pattern feels confusing at first, try working it with a plain, light-colored worsted weight yarn on larger needles as a practice swatch before committing to your chosen project yarn. Seeing the wave emerge at a larger scale makes the logic of the stitch much easier to understand.

When attaching the zipper, sewing in good light is genuinely helpful. Knitted fabric has a slight texture that can hide your stitches as you work, and bright light helps you keep them even.

A Note on Gift-Giving

Handknitted coin purses make exceptional gifts, and the Melodica Coin Purse is particularly well-suited to giving because it is small enough to finish in one or two evenings and polished enough to feel genuinely special. Consider knitting a set of three in coordinating colorways and nesting them together as a gift — one for coins, one for lip products, one for a spare key or earbuds. Tied together with a ribbon, they make a thoughtful and personal present for birthdays, holidays, teachers, bridesmaids, or anyone who appreciates handmade things.

The small size of the project also makes it an excellent way to use up those precious single skeins of special yarn that have been sitting in your stash waiting for the right project. A fifty-yard skein of beautiful hand-dyed fingering weight that you picked up at a fiber festival and never quite knew what to do with? This is exactly where it belongs.

Final Thoughts

The Melodica Coin Purse is the kind of pattern that earns a permanent place in your project rotation. It is small enough to carry in your bag and work on during a lunch break, satisfying enough to hold your attention through the whole project, and useful enough that you will actually want to make it again and again in different yarns and colors. Once you have knitted the wave pattern a few times, it becomes genuinely relaxing — the kind of project your hands can do while your mind wanders, or while you are watching television, or sitting in the garden on a quiet afternoon.

If you make this purse, we would love to see it