Free Crochet Koala Pattern – Plush Yarn Amigurumi
There is something undeniably magical about a handmade stuffed animal. It carries warmth that no store-bought toy can replicate — the careful loops of yarn, the tiny sewn-on eyes, the stuffing you packed in just a little too enthusiastically because you wanted it to be extra squishy. Among all the creatures you can bring to life with a crochet hook, the koala holds a very special place. With its round ears, soft grey body, and that enormous, distinctive nose, a crochet koala is one of those projects that earns gasps of delight the moment you pull it out of your project bag.
This free crochet koala pattern uses plush yarn to give your finished amigurumi that irresistibly soft, velvety texture that makes it practically impossible to put down. Whether you are making it as a gift for a baby shower, a comfort toy for a little one, or simply adding another adorable creature to your amigurumi collection, this pattern walks you through every step from the magic ring to the finishing touches.
Let’s get started.
Why Plush Yarn Is Perfect for Amigurumi Koalas
Before we jump into the pattern itself, it is worth talking about yarn choice, because it makes an enormous difference in the finished look and feel of your koala.
Plush yarn — sometimes called velvet yarn, chenille yarn, or cuddle yarn — has a soft, velvety pile that mimics the feel of real fur or plush fabric. When you use it for amigurumi, the result is a toy that looks almost professionally made, with that boutique stuffed-animal quality that people associate with expensive handmade goods. For a koala specifically, the texture is ideal because koalas themselves have thick, coarse-but-fluffy fur, and the plush yarn captures that aesthetic beautifully.
The main thing to be aware of with plush yarn is that it hides your stitches. This is both a blessing and a slight challenge. It is a blessing because any small tension inconsistencies or slightly uneven stitch counts become invisible under all that fluff. It is a challenge because you need to be diligent about counting your stitches and using stitch markers, since you cannot see your work as easily as you can with smooth cotton yarn.
A few tips for working with plush yarn: use a good light source while you crochet, keep your stitch markers in religiously, and do not rush. Once you get into the rhythm, it moves quickly and the results are absolutely worth the extra attention.
Materials You Will Need
To make this crochet koala amigurumi, gather the following supplies before you begin.
For yarn, you will need approximately 200 grams of grey plush yarn in a medium or bulky weight (the most commonly used weight for plush amigurumi is a chunky or super bulky, though you can use medium weight for a smaller finished size). You will also need a small amount of white or cream plush yarn for the inner ears and belly, a small amount of black or very dark grey smooth yarn for the nose detail, and a small amount of dark brown or charcoal smooth yarn for optional additional details.
For your hook, a size 5.0 mm (H/8) crochet hook works well with most medium-weight plush yarns, but always check the tension against your yarn label and adjust as needed. If you are using a chunky or bulky plush yarn, size 6.0 mm (J/10) or even 8.0 mm (L/11) may be more appropriate.
You will also need polyester fiberfill stuffing, two 12 mm or 15 mm safety eyes in black, a yarn needle for sewing parts together and weaving in ends, stitch markers (these are non-negotiable with plush yarn), scissors, and optionally a wire brush or pet slicker brush to fluff up the finished plush surface after completion.
Gauge and Finished Size
With medium-weight plush yarn and a 5.0 mm hook, your finished koala should measure approximately 25 to 28 centimeters (about 10 to 11 inches) tall when sitting. If you use a chunky plush yarn with a larger hook, the koala will be bigger. If you prefer a pocket-sized koala, switch to a fingering or sport weight plush yarn with a correspondingly smaller hook and reduce your stitch counts proportionally.
Gauge is not critically precise for amigurumi in the way it is for garments, but you do want your fabric to be tight enough that the stuffing does not show through the gaps between stitches.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used. MR stands for magic ring. Ch means chain. Sl st means slip stitch. Sc means single crochet. Inc means increase, which is two single crochets worked into the same stitch. Dec means invisible decrease, which involves inserting your hook through the front loops of the next two stitches and crocheting them together. BLO means back loop only. St means stitch. Rnd means round. Rep means repeat.
All rounds in this pattern are worked in continuous spirals unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds unless the pattern specifically says to.
The Pattern
Head
Begin with your grey plush yarn.
Round 1: Start with a MR and work 6 sc into the ring. Pull to close. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* rep around. (18 sts)
Round 4: *Sc 2, inc* rep around. (24 sts)
Round 5: *Sc 3, inc* rep around. (30 sts)
Round 6: *Sc 4, inc* rep around. (36 sts)
Round 7: *Sc 5, inc* rep around. (42 sts)
Rounds 8 through 14: Sc in each st around for 7 rounds. (42 sts)
Round 15: *Sc 5, dec* rep around. (36 sts)
Round 16: *Sc 4, dec* rep around. (30 sts)
At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 6 to 7 stitches apart. With plush yarn it can be tricky to see the exact placement, so take your time, use a pin or stitch marker to test the position before committing, and make sure both eyes are level and symmetrical. Once you are happy with the placement, secure the safety eye backings firmly.
Begin stuffing the head now, adding fiberfill gradually as you continue.
Round 17: *Sc 3, dec* rep around. (24 sts)
Round 18: *Sc 2, dec* rep around. (18 sts)
Round 19: *Sc 1, dec* rep around. (12 sts)
Round 20: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by weaving through the front loops of the 6 remaining stitches and pulling tight. Weave in the end.
Body
Round 1: MR, work 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* rep around. (18 sts)
Round 4: *Sc 2, inc* rep around. (24 sts)
Round 5: *Sc 3, inc* rep around. (30 sts)
Round 6: *Sc 4, inc* rep around. (36 sts)
Rounds 7 through 14: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)
Round 15: *Sc 4, dec* rep around. (30 sts)
Round 16: *Sc 3, dec* rep around. (24 sts)
Round 17: *Sc 2, dec* rep around. (18 sts)
Begin stuffing the body firmly at this point.
Round 18: *Sc 1, dec* rep around. (12 sts)
Round 19: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off and close the hole as with the head. Leave a long enough yarn tail to sew the head to the body later if preferred, or set aside and use a separate length of yarn for assembly.
Belly Patch (optional but highly recommended)
Using white or cream plush yarn, work a small flat oval.
Round 1: Ch 4, sc in second ch from hook, sc 1, inc in last ch. Working on the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc 1, sc 1, inc. (8 sts)
Round 2: Inc, sc 2, inc twice, sc 2, inc. (12 sts)
Round 3: Inc, sc 4, inc twice, sc 4, inc. (16 sts)
Sl st to join and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the oval and sew it to the front of the body, centered, with the narrower end pointing upward.
Ears (make 2 — each with inner and outer sections)
Outer ear (grey):
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* rep around. (18 sts)
Round 4: *Sc 2, inc* rep around. (24 sts)
Rounds 5 and 6: Sc around. (24 sts)
Do not fasten off. Set aside.
Inner ear (white or cream):
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* rep around. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
To assemble the ear, place the inner ear on top of the outer ear with wrong sides together. Using the tail from the inner ear, sew it onto the outer ear piece, stitching around the edge. Then fold the outer ear in half and sl st or sew the bottom edge closed, creating the characteristic rounded koala ear shape. Leave a tail for attaching to the head.
Arms (make 2)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rounds 3 and 4: Sc around. (12 sts)
Round 5: *Sc 1, dec* rep around. (8 sts)
Rounds 6 through 12: Sc around for 7 rounds. (8 sts)
Lightly stuff the arms (just enough to give them shape without being rigid). Flatten the top opening and sc across to close. Leave a long tail for sewing to the body.
Legs (make 2)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* rep around. (18 sts)
Round 4: BLO sc around. (18 sts) — this creates the heel ridge
Rounds 5 and 6: Sc around. (18 sts)
Round 7: Sc 5, dec 4 times, sc 5. (14 sts)
Round 8: Sc 5, dec twice, sc 5. (12 sts)
Rounds 9 through 14: Sc around. (12 sts)
Stuff the legs moderately. Flatten the top and sc across to close. Leave a long tail for sewing.
Nose
Using black smooth yarn (not plush — smooth yarn shows up much better for small detail pieces):
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* rep around. (18 sts)
Rounds 4 and 5: Sc around. (18 sts)
Do not stuff. Flatten and leave a long tail for sewing to the face.
Assembly
Assembly is where your koala truly comes to life, and taking your time here is what separates a beautiful finished toy from a slightly lopsided one.
Start by attaching the nose to the lower center of the face, roughly between rounds 15 and 18 of the head. The nose should sit prominently and centrally — this is the defining feature of the koala face, so positioning matters. Pin it in place before sewing to confirm you are happy with it. Use the yarn tail and your yarn needle to sew around the entire perimeter of the nose securely.
If you want to add a smile, use a short length of dark yarn and a yarn needle to embroider a small curved line just below the nose. Keep it subtle — just a gentle U-shape gives the koala a sweet, peaceful expression.
Next, attach the ears to the top sides of the head. Koala ears sit wide apart, almost on the sides of the head rather than the very top. Position them roughly around rounds 2 and 3 of the head (the very top) but shifted outward toward each side. Pin both ears and step back to check they look symmetrical before sewing them down firmly.
Sew the head to the body, aligning the seam at the back. The neck joint should be secure — sew all the way around and then go around a second time for extra stability, especially if this toy is intended for a young child.
Attach the arms to the sides of the body at approximately rounds 8 through 10 from the top, positioning them so they angle slightly forward and downward.
Attach the legs to the bottom of the body, angling them forward so the koala can sit upright. You may need to adjust positioning slightly depending on how firmly you stuffed each piece.
Finishing Touches
Once all pieces are assembled, give your koala a gentle brush with a wire slicker brush or pet brush. Use short, light strokes to lift the pile of the plush yarn, especially around the seams and any areas where the stitching compressed the fibers. This step transforms a good-looking koala into a spectacular one — the fluffing gives it that premium, soft toy appearance.
Check all your sewn joints and give any loose ends a final tug to make sure everything is secure. Trim any remaining yarn tails close to the surface.
If you are giving this koala to a baby or young toddler, double-check that all safety eyes are absolutely secure. For infants under 12 months, it is safer to embroider the eyes using yarn or felt pieces sewn firmly in place instead of using safety eyes at all.
Pattern Notes and Customization Ideas
This pattern is quite versatile. You can make a darker grey koala for a more realistic look, or go entirely off-script with a pastel pink or lavender koala for a whimsical twist. Some crocheters like to add a tiny eucalyptus leaf in the koala’s arm using green yarn — you can create a simple leaf shape with a small flat oval worked in green smooth yarn, then tuck it under one of the arms before sewing it closed.
If you want a larger koala, simply go up a hook size and use a chunkier yarn. If you want a koala keychain or bag charm, use fingering weight plush yarn with a 2.5 mm hook and reduce your stitch counts by one third.
For a mama and baby version, make one large koala using the pattern as written and a second smaller one at half scale, then sew the smaller one onto the back of the larger one, peeking over the mama koala’s shoulder. It makes for an incredibly sweet gift for a new parent.
Tips for Beginners Trying Amigurumi for the First Time
If this is your first amigurumi project, welcome to one of the most addictive corners of the crochet world. A few pieces of advice will make the whole process smoother.
Always use stitch markers, and move them up every single round. This is non-negotiable, especially with plush yarn. Missing a stitch or accidentally working into the wrong round can throw off your entire piece, and with plush yarn you may not notice until the piece is finished.
Make the magic ring slightly tighter than you think you need to, because a loose center shows up as a small hole at the top or bottom of your amigurumi and is
