Free Amigurumi Noso Koala Crochet Pattern: Your Complete Guide to Making an Adorable Stuffed Koala

If you’ve been scrolling through crochet communities lately, chances are you’ve come across the utterly charming world of Noso-style amigurumi. These soft, chubby, nose-heavy stuffed animals have taken the handmade community by storm, and the koala might just be the most lovable of them all. Today, I’m sharing a complete free amigurumi Noso koala crochet pattern that’s approachable for intermediate crocheters and satisfying enough to keep experienced makers engaged from start to finish.

Whether you’re making this for a baby shower gift, a child’s birthday, a decorative accent for a nursery, or simply for the joy of making something cute with your own hands, this koala is going to become one of your favorite projects. So grab your hook, pull out that gray yarn, and let’s get started.

What Is Noso-Style Amigurumi?

Before diving into the pattern itself, it helps to understand what makes Noso amigurumi different from traditional stuffed animals. “Noso” refers to the Japanese word for nose, and Noso-style amigurumi are characterized by their oversized, rounded noses that dominate the face in the most delightful way possible. The face is usually flat or very lightly curved, the eyes are set close together above the prominent nose, and the overall shape tends toward round and squishy rather than elongated or realistic.

This aesthetic suits koalas perfectly. Real koalas already have those iconic large, leathery noses that make them instantly recognizable, so translating that feature into a Noso plush feels completely natural. The result is a crochet toy that’s unmistakably koala while also being whimsical and soft in a way that actual koalas, let’s be honest, are not always willing to be.

Materials and Tools You’ll Need

Having the right supplies before you begin makes the whole process smoother and more enjoyable. Here’s what you’ll need to complete this free amigurumi Noso koala crochet pattern.

Yarn: You’ll need worsted weight yarn in light gray (the main color for the body, head, and limbs), dark gray or charcoal (for the ears and nose), white or cream (for the ear inner circles and tummy), and black (for the eyes, if you’re using safety eyes that are black or for any embroidered details). If you prefer a more natural look, you can substitute pale lavender-gray for the main color, as some koala amigurumi makers love that slightly purple-toned gray that mimics real koala fur.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4mm crochet hook works best with worsted weight yarn for amigurumi purposes. You want your stitches tight enough that the stuffing won’t show through, so go down a size from what your yarn label recommends.

Safety Eyes: Two black safety eyes, 9mm or 12mm depending on the final size you want. If you’re making this for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes instead using black yarn or embroidery floss for safety reasons.

Polyfill Stuffing: Standard polyester fiberfill works beautifully. Have more than you think you’ll need — amigurumi always seem to absorb more stuffing than expected.

Stitch Markers: These are essential for amigurumi. You’ll use them to mark the beginning of each round so you don’t lose your place.

Tapestry Needle: For sewing pieces together and weaving in ends. A blunt tip is ideal so you don’t split your yarn.

Scissors: Sharp, small scissors for trimming yarn ends cleanly.

Optional: If you want to add blush or color to the cheeks, a cosmetic blush or chalk pastel in light pink applied with a cotton swab after your piece is complete gives an adorable finishing touch.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout. Here are the abbreviations you’ll encounter.

MR — magic ring
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops of next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
st — stitch
rnd — round

Pattern Notes

This koala is worked in continuous rounds using the amigurumi method. Do not join rounds unless the pattern specifies. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round and move it up as you go. The finished koala stands approximately 6 to 7 inches tall when made with worsted weight yarn on a 3.5mm hook, making it a perfect palm-sized companion.

All pieces are made separately and then assembled at the end. I recommend completing all the pieces before assembling so you can lay everything out and plan your placement before committing to any sewing.

The Pattern

Head

Using light gray yarn and starting with a magic ring:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around (18)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around (24)
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat around (30)
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat around (36)
Rnd 7: (Sc 5, inc) repeat around (42)
Rnd 8: (Sc 6, inc) repeat around (48)
Rnds 9–16: Sc around in each st (48) — 8 rounds even
Rnd 17: (Sc 6, dec) repeat around (42)
Rnd 18: (Sc 5, dec) repeat around (36)

At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, approximately 8 to 10 stitches apart. If you’re embroidering instead, you’ll add those after the head is complete and stuffed.

Rnd 19: (Sc 4, dec) repeat around (30)

Begin stuffing the head firmly. Keep stuffing as you close the remaining rounds.

Rnd 20: (Sc 3, dec) repeat around (24)
Rnd 21: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around (18)
Rnd 22: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around (12)
Rnd 23: Dec around (6)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use your tapestry needle to close the remaining hole by weaving through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pulling tight. Weave in the end securely.

Nose

This is the defining feature of the Noso koala and deserves special attention. Using dark gray or charcoal yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around (18)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around (24)
Rnds 5–7: Sc around in each st (24) — 3 rounds even
Rnd 8: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around (18)

Lightly stuff the nose. It should be firm but still have a slight give when pressed. A fully rigid nose won’t look as cute when sewn onto the face.

Rnd 9: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around (12)
Rnd 10: Dec around (6)

Fasten off with a long tail and close the hole the same way as the head. Set aside.

Body

Using light gray yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around (18)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around (24)
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat around (30)
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat around (36)
Rnds 7–16: Sc around in each st (36) — 10 rounds even
Rnd 17: (Sc 4, dec) repeat around (30)
Rnd 18: Sc around (30)
Rnd 19: (Sc 3, dec) repeat around (24)

Stuff the body at this point. It should be firm and hold its oval shape well.

Rnd 20: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around (18)
Rnd 21: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around (12)
Rnd 22: Dec around (6)

Fasten off and close the hole. Set aside.

Arms (Make 2)

Using light gray yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12)
Rnds 3–4: Sc around (12)
Rnd 5: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around (9)
Rnds 6–14: Sc around (9) — 9 rounds even

Do not stuff the arms, or stuff very lightly just at the paw end. Flatten the top of the arm and sc across both layers together to close (approximately 4–5 stitches). Fasten off with a long tail for sewing. Set aside.

Legs (Make 2)

Using light gray yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around (18)
Rnds 4–6: Sc around (18)
Rnd 7: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around (12)

Stuff the foot/paw area firmly.

Rnds 8–14: Sc around (12) — 7 rounds even

Flatten and close the top of the leg the same way as the arms. Fasten off with a long tail. Set aside.

Ears (Make 2 — Outer Ear in Dark Gray, Inner Ear in White or Cream)

Outer Ear (make 2 in dark gray or charcoal):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around (18)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around (24)
Rnds 5–6: Sc around (24)

Fasten off with a long tail. Do not stuff the ears.

Inner Ear (make 2 in white or cream):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around (18)

Fasten off with a long tail.

To assemble the ears, place the inner ear piece centered on the outer ear piece and sew it on using your tapestry needle and the yarn tail. Keep the inner ear flat and centered. The outer edges of the dark gray ear will show around the cream center, creating that classic fluffy koala ear look. Once the inner ear is attached, fold the ear slightly in half to give it a cupped shape, and sew a few stitches at the base to hold that curve. Set the assembled ears aside.

Tummy Patch (Optional but Recommended)

Using white or cream yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around (18)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around (24)

Fasten off with a long tail. Flatten slightly into an oval shape by gently pressing with your fingers. Set aside.

Assembly

This is where your koala really comes to life, and taking your time with assembly is worth every extra minute.

Attach the nose first. Position the nose on the lower center of the face, roughly between rounds 14 and 19 of the head. The nose should feel prominent and pushed forward slightly — that’s the whole Noso aesthetic. Pin it in place if you have sewing pins handy, then sew all the way around the base using the yarn tail and a tapestry needle. Sew through both the nose base and the head, pulling the stitches firm so the nose sits flush without any gaps.

Add any facial details. If you’re embroidering a mouth, use black yarn or embroidery floss to make a small curved line below the nose. A simple upside-down V shape looks sweet and natural. You can also add nostrils to the nose with two small straight stitches if you want extra realism.

Attach the ears. Position both ears on top of the head, one on each side, roughly between rounds 1 and 5. Angle them slightly outward and upward. Sew each ear securely around its entire base so it won’t wobble. The ears should sit firmly upright.

Attach the head to the body. Position the head on top of the body, centered and facing forward. The head should sit slightly tilted forward for that classic amigurumi cub look. Sew all the way around the neck join, stitching through both the bottom of the head and the top of the body. Go around twice for extra security.

Attach the arms. Pin the arms to the sides of the body, roughly at the shoulder level, about 4 to 5 rounds down from the neck join. The flat closed end of the arm gets sewn to the body. Position them so they angle slightly downward and forward. Sew firmly in place.

Attach the legs. The legs attach to the bottom front of the body, angled outward and slightly forward. Sew them on securely. For a sitting koala, angle the legs so they splay out naturally as if the koala is seated, which also helps the finished piece balance and sit upright on its own.

Add the tummy patch. If you made the optional tummy patch, sew it to the front center of the body, roughly between rounds 8 and 15. It doesn’t need to be stuffed — just sew it flat onto the body surface and it will give your koala that adorable light-colored belly.

Finishing Touches

Once everything is assembled and all ends are woven in, take a few minutes to look your koala over from every angle. Adjust the positioning of any pieces that seem off. Sometimes after sewing an arm or leg on, you’ll notice it could sit just a little higher or lower, and a few extra stitches can reposition it slightly.

If you’re using a cosmetic blush technique for the cheeks, apply a tiny amount of pink blush with a cotton swab to the cheeks just beside the nose. Build the color gradually rather than applying too much at once. You can also apply a touch of color to the inner ears for a warm, rosy effect.

If any seams look a bit uneven, running the tip of your tapestry needle along the join and gently pulling the stitches into alignment can tighten things up beautifully.

Sizing Variations

One of the best things about this free amigurumi Noso koala crochet pattern is how easily it scales. If you use bulky weight yarn with a 5.5mm or 6mm hook, your finished koala will be significantly larger — closer to 10 or 12 inches — which makes it an impressive gift or display piece. If you use sport weight yarn with a 2.5mm or 3mm hook, you’ll get a miniature koala that’s absolutely tiny and precious, perfect for a keychain or bag charm if you add a small jump ring to the top.

Adjusting yarn weight is the easiest way to resize without recalculating any stitch counts, and the pattern works proportionally at any size.

Care Instructions for Your Finished Koala

Amigurumi made with acrylic yarn can typically be hand washed in cool water with a gentle soap and then laid flat to dry. Avoid machine washing if possible, as it can distort the shape. If the polyester fiberfill gets lumpy, gently massaging the piece after washing while it’s still