Cuteness Overload: Free Amigurumi Crochet Bunny Pattern!

There is something undeniably magical about turning a simple ball of yarn into a tiny, soft creature with floppy ears and a little button nose. Amigurumi — the Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed animals and characters — has taken the crafting world by storm, and for good reason. These little handmade creatures make perfect gifts, nursery decorations, photography props, and comfort toys. And today, I am sharing one of my all-time favorite makes: a free amigurumi crochet bunny pattern that is perfect for beginners and experienced crocheters alike.

Whether you are brand new to amigurumi or you have a basket full of finished critters already sitting on your shelf, this pattern is going to delight you. The bunny works up relatively quickly, uses only basic crochet stitches, and results in the most adorable little rabbit you have ever seen. Get your hook ready, because we are diving in!

What Is Amigurumi?

Before we get into the pattern itself, let me take a moment to talk about what amigurumi actually is, in case you are coming to this craft for the very first time. Amigurumi is a Japanese word combining “ami,” meaning crocheted or knitted, and “nuigurumi,” meaning stuffed doll. The style originated in Japan and became internationally popular in the early 2000s, largely thanks to the internet and crafting communities sharing patterns online.

Traditional amigurumi figures are worked in continuous rounds rather than rows, which gives them their characteristic smooth, seamless appearance. They are typically stuffed with polyfill fiberfill to give them a soft, three-dimensional shape, and features like eyes, noses, and limbs are either sewn on or crocheted separately and attached. The result is an incredibly charming, compact little creature that looks like it stepped straight out of a cartoon.

The bunny is one of the most popular amigurumi designs in the world, and it is easy to see why. Those long ears, round tummy, and tiny features are practically irresistible.

Materials You Will Need

One of the best things about amigurumi is that it does not require a lot of supplies. Here is everything you need to make this free crochet bunny pattern:

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (size 4) works beautifully for this pattern. You will need a main color for the body — any soft, pastel shade works wonderfully, think blush pink, pale lavender, soft mint, creamy white, or warm gray. You will also want a small amount of a contrasting color for optional details like a belly patch or inner ears. Approximately 100–150 yards of main color yarn is plenty for one bunny.

Crochet Hook: A 3.5mm (US size E/4) crochet hook is ideal for worsted weight yarn in amigurumi. Using a hook slightly smaller than what the yarn label recommends helps you create tighter stitches so the stuffing does not show through.

Safety Eyes: Two 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes. If this bunny is for a child under three years old, skip the safety eyes and embroider the eyes with black yarn instead for safety reasons.

Polyfill Stuffing: A small bag of polyester fiberfill stuffing, available at any craft store. You will be surprised how much you use — stuff firmly but not so hard that you distort the shape.

Yarn Needle: Also called a tapestry needle or darning needle, this is used for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.

Stitch Marker: A simple split ring stitch marker or a piece of scrap yarn to mark the beginning of each round.

Scissors: A small, sharp pair for snipping yarn.

Optional embellishments include a tiny ribbon bow tied around the neck, a small pompom tail (or a crocheted one, which I will include in the pattern), and embroidery floss for a little embroidered nose and smile.

Gauge and Sizing

Gauge is not critical in amigurumi the way it is in garment making, but it does affect the final size of your bunny. Using worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook, the finished bunny will measure approximately 7–8 inches tall from the bottom of the body to the tips of the ears. If you use a bulkier yarn or larger hook, your bunny will turn out bigger. If you use fingering or sport weight yarn with a smaller hook, your bunny will be daintier and more miniature.

All sizes are adorable, so feel free to experiment!

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern is written in US crochet terminology. Here are the abbreviations you will encounter:

MR — Magic ring (also called a magic circle)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops only of next two stitches, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops)
st(s) — Stitch(es)
BLO — Back loop only
FO — Fasten off
PM — Place marker

All rounds are worked in continuous spirals unless otherwise stated. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless instructed.

Free Amigurumi Crochet Bunny Pattern

Head

Round 1: Start with MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat around. (36 sts)
Round 7: [Sc 5, inc] repeat around. (42 sts)
Rounds 8–14: Sc in each st around. (42 sts) — 7 rounds even
Round 15: [Sc 5, dec] repeat around. (36 sts)
Round 16: [Sc 4, dec] repeat around. (30 sts)

At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 8–10 stitches apart. If embroidering the eyes, you will do that after the head is finished and stuffed. Stuff the head firmly.

Round 17: [Sc 3, dec] repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 18: [Sc 2, dec] repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 19: [Sc 1, dec] repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 20: [Dec] repeat around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by weaving through the front loops of all 6 stitches and pulling tight. Weave in the end.

Nose and Cheeks (optional): Using pink or dusty rose embroidery floss or yarn, embroider a small triangle or Y-shape for the nose between the eyes, roughly 3 rounds below them. You can also add a small curved smile. For rosy cheeks, use a cotton swab and a tiny dab of blush-colored chalk or a pink colored pencil to add a soft blush to each side.

Body

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat around. (36 sts)
Rounds 7–14: Sc in each st around. (36 sts) — 8 rounds even
Round 15: [Sc 4, dec] repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 16: Sc in each st around. (30 sts)
Round 17: [Sc 3, dec] repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 18: Sc in each st around. (24 sts)
Round 19: [Sc 2, dec] repeat around. (18 sts)

Stuff the body firmly before the opening gets too small.

Round 20: [Sc 1, dec] repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 21: [Dec] repeat around. (6 sts)

Fasten off and close the hole the same way as the head, or leave a long tail for sewing to the head. Set aside.

Ears (Make Two)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around. (18 sts)
Rounds 4–16: Sc in each st around. (18 sts) — 13 rounds even
Round 17: [Sc 1, dec] repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 18: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Do not stuff the ears. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the base of each ear slightly before attaching.

Optional inner ear: Using a contrasting color, embroider or surface slip stitch a thin oval shape down the front of each ear for a cute inner ear detail. Alternatively, you can crochet the inner ear in a contrasting color by working in the back loop only of one side of the ear.

Arms (Make Two)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rounds 3–10: Sc in each st around. (12 sts) — 8 rounds even
Round 11: [Sc 2, dec] repeat around. (9 sts)

Lightly stuff the arms — just enough to give them a little body without making them stiff. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Legs (Make Two)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around. (18 sts)
Rounds 4–5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Round 6: [Sc 1, dec] repeat around. (12 sts)
Rounds 7–14: Sc in each st around. (12 sts) — 8 rounds even

Stuff the legs firmly. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Tail

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Round 5: [Sc 1, dec] repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 6: [Dec] repeat around. (6 sts)

Stuff lightly and close. Leave a long tail for sewing to the back of the body.

Alternatively, you can make a pompom tail using a small pompom maker or by wrapping yarn around two fingers several times, tying it in the middle, and trimming into a fluffy ball. A pompom tail gives an extra-soft, fluffy look.

Assembling Your Bunny

Assembly is where your little bunny really comes to life, and it is also where a bit of patience pays off. Here is how to put everything together for the most polished result.

Start by positioning the head on top of the body and pinning it in place with a few sewing pins or holding it steady with your fingers. Use the long yarn tail from the body or head and a yarn needle to whipstitch around the entire opening, catching stitches from both pieces as you go. Make sure the seam is tight and even, and that the head sits centered and upright on the body. Pull firmly and secure with a knot hidden inside the body.

Next, position the ears on top of the head. For a classic bunny look, place them roughly in the center of the top of the head, about 4–5 stitches apart, with the base of each ear angled very slightly outward. For a more floppy bunny, you can position the ears further toward the sides of the head and let them drape naturally. Sew each ear securely with the tail yarn, going around the base at least twice for stability.

Attach the arms to either side of the body, about 2–3 rounds down from where the head meets the body. Sew them flat against the sides for a sweet, natural sitting position, or angle them slightly forward for a more hugging pose.

Sew the legs to the bottom of the body, positioning them toward the front so your bunny sits upright without tipping forward. Leave a little gap between them so the bunny sits flat and stable.

Finally, attach the tail to the back of the body, centered and about 3–4 rounds up from the very bottom. The tail sits best when it is sewn on snugly so it puffs outward rather than flopping to one side.

Once everything is assembled, weave in all remaining yarn ends thoroughly and trim. Give your bunny a gentle squeeze to make sure all seams feel secure.

Tips for Making the Perfect Amigurumi Bunny

A few extra tips can take your bunny from sweet to absolutely stunning.

Use a magic ring for every piece. A clean magic ring eliminates the hole that sometimes appears at the top of a piece when you chain and join. If you are not comfortable with the magic ring yet, there are wonderful video tutorials online — it is worth learning.

Count your stitches every round. Amigurumi is very sensitive to stitch counts. Missing an increase or a decrease throws off the shape more noticeably than in other crochet projects. Use a stitch counter app or simply mark every ten stitches.

Stuff as you go. Once the opening on any piece gets smaller than about 10 stitches across, it becomes very difficult to add stuffing. Stuff each piece before that point.

Use the invisible decrease. The standard single crochet decrease creates a visible bump on the outside of amigurumi. The invisible decrease, worked through the front loops only, creates a smooth, almost undetectable join that gives the finished piece a much more polished look.

Choose yarn with good stitch definition. Smooth, tightly spun yarns show the individual stitches clearly and create a neater fabric. Fluffy or fuzzy yarns can obscure the stitches and make counting harder, though they do produce an adorably soft texture.

Block your finished pieces lightly if needed. A very light mist of water and gentle shaping can help smooth out any uneven areas, especially around the ears.

Customizing Your Bunny

One of the most joyful things about making amigurumi is the infinite room for personalization. Here are a few ideas for making your bunny uniquely yours.

You can dress your bunny in a tiny crocheted outfit — a simple tube top worked in rounds or a tiny pair of pants can add so much personality. Tie a satin ribbon bow around the neck for an instant elegant touch. Add a little embroidered heart on the chest. Give your bunny a tiny carrot to hold, made from a small orange cone shape with green yarn embroidered at the top.

For a spring or Easter version, try a pastel yellow or lilac colorway with embroidered flowers on one ear. For a Halloween bunny, use gray or black yarn with orange safety eyes and add a tiny crocheted pumpkin. For Christmas, a jolly red-and-white striped bunny with a tiny santa hat is beyond adorable.

You can also make a whole family of bunnies in different sizes by adjusting your yarn weight. A sport weight bunny next to a worsted weight bunny is the sweetest little parent-and-child pair imaginable.

Why Make Amigurumi?

Beyond the sheer cuteness of the finished product, crocheting amigurumi offers a genuinely wonderful creative and mental health experience. The rhythmic, repetitive motion of crochet is well-documented as a stress-reducing activity, similar to meditation. Amig