Cute Crochet Bunny Keychain Pattern with Pink Hood – Free Amigurumi Idea

If you’ve been scrolling through crafting communities lately, you’ve probably noticed that tiny crocheted keychains are absolutely everywhere — and for good reason. They’re adorable, practical, quick to make, and the perfect project for using up those little scraps of yarn sitting in your stash. Today, I’m sharing a complete free pattern for a Cute Crochet Bunny Keychain with a Pink Hood, a sweet little amigurumi-style accessory that works up in just a few hours and makes the most charming gift or bag charm you can imagine.

Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter who’s made dozens of amigurumi animals or someone who just finished their first granny square and is ready to level up, this pattern is written with you in mind. I’ve included all the abbreviations, materials, stitch counts, and tips you need to bring this tiny pink-hooded bunny to life. Grab your hook, a cup of something warm, and let’s dive in.

Why You’ll Love This Bunny Keychain Pattern

Before we get into the pattern itself, let me tell you a little about what makes this particular design so special.

First, it’s compact. The finished bunny measures approximately 3 to 3.5 inches tall (not including the keychain hardware), which makes it the ideal size to dangle from a backpack zipper, a purse handle, a set of car keys, or even a lanyard. It’s small enough to stay out of the way but large enough to be noticed — and trust me, people will notice it.

Second, the pink hood detail is what really sets this design apart from your standard amigurumi bunny. The bunny wears a little removable-style hood (crocheted directly onto the head for ease) that frames its face perfectly and gives it that cozy, fairy-tale look. It’s the kind of tiny detail that makes people gasp and say, “You made that yourself?!”

Third, this pattern uses very little yarn. If you have a small stash of worsted or DK weight yarn in cream, white, or light beige (for the bunny body) and pink (for the hood), you’re ready to go. No special purchases required.

Materials You’ll Need

Here’s everything you’ll want to gather before you sit down to crochet your bunny keychain:

Yarn: A small amount of cream, white, or beige yarn for the body (worsted or DK weight works well), plus a small amount of pink yarn for the hood and any accent details. Approximately 20–30 grams total is more than enough.

Crochet Hook: Size 2.5mm to 3.5mm, depending on your yarn weight and personal tension. For a tighter, firmer amigurumi fabric (which prevents stuffing from showing through), go smaller rather than larger.

Stuffing: A small amount of polyfill or fiberfill stuffing. You won’t need much — just enough to give your bunny a soft, rounded shape.

Safety Eyes: Two 6mm black safety eyes. If you’re making this bunny for a child under three, use embroidered eyes instead for safety reasons.

Stitch Marker: Just one, to mark the beginning of your rounds.

Yarn Needle: For weaving in ends and sewing pieces together.

Scissors: For cutting yarn.

Keychain Hardware: One split ring keychain (the kind you find in any craft store or online), plus an optional lobster clasp if you want it to be detachable.

Optional Extras: A tiny length of pink embroidery floss for the nose, a small piece of ribbon for a bow, or a dab of blush on the cheeks using a cotton swab and powder eyeshadow.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern is written in US crochet terms. Here’s a quick reference guide:

MR – Magic ring
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec – decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook through the front loops of the next two stitches together, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops)
BLO – back loop only
FLO – front loop only
st – stitch
sts – stitches
rnd – round
rep – repeat

Pattern Notes

All pieces are crocheted in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds unless instructed. Use your stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round so you don’t lose count.

The magic ring (also called a magic circle) is used to start most pieces. If you’re not comfortable with the magic ring, you can chain 2 and work your starting stitches into the second chain from the hook instead.

Leave a long tail when finishing pieces that need to be sewn together — at least 10 to 12 inches. This saves you from having to rejoin yarn before sewing.

The Pattern

Part 1: The Bunny Body

The body is worked from the bottom up.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc rep around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc rep around. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc 3, inc rep around. (30 sts)
Rounds 6–10: Sc in each st around. (30 sts) — 5 rounds even
Round 11: Sc 3, dec rep around. (24 sts)
Round 12: Sc 2, dec rep around. (18 sts)

At this point, begin stuffing the body firmly. Continue stuffing as you close.

Round 13: Sc 1, dec rep around. (12 sts)
Round 14: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining 6 stitches by weaving through the front loops and pulling tight. Weave in the end.

Part 2: The Head

The head is worked from the top down so you can attach safety eyes before closing.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc rep around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc rep around. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc 3, inc rep around. (30 sts)
Rounds 6–10: Sc in each st around. (30 sts) — 5 rounds even

At the end of Round 10, attach your safety eyes between Rounds 7 and 8, approximately 6 stitches apart. Embroider a tiny nose with pink floss between the eyes, just a stitch or two to create a small “Y” shape.

Round 11: Sc 3, dec rep around. (24 sts)
Round 12: Sc 2, dec rep around. (18 sts)

Stuff the head firmly.

Round 13: Sc 1, dec rep around. (12 sts)
Round 14: Dec around. (6 sts)

Close as before. Leave a long tail for sewing the head to the body.

Part 3: The Ears (Make 2)

The ears are flat and don’t require stuffing.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rounds 3–6: Sc in each st around. (12 sts) — 4 rounds even
Round 7: Sc 1, dec rep around. (8 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the ear slightly before attaching — no need to stuff.

For a pink inner ear, cut a small oval from pink felt and glue or sew it inside the ear before attaching it to the head. This optional detail adds a lovely pop of color and gives the bunny a more realistic look.

Part 4: The Arms (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rounds 3–5: Sc in each st around. (12 sts) — 3 rounds even
Round 6: Sc 1, dec rep around. (8 sts)
Rounds 7–8: Sc in each st around. (8 sts)

Lightly stuff the lower portion (the “hand”) and leave the upper arm unstuffed so it stays flat and floppy — this makes sewing much easier and gives the bunny a sweet, soft look.

Fasten off with a long tail.

Part 5: The Pink Hood

This is the star of the whole design. The hood is worked flat (in rows) and then seamed along the back.

With pink yarn:

Foundation chain: Ch 22. Turn.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (21 sts) Turn.
Rows 2–12: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (21 sts) Turn.

At the end of Row 12, do not fasten off. Fold the piece in half (bringing the short edges together) and slip stitch across the top to create the back seam of the hood. This seam will run up the back of the bunny’s head.

Fasten off and weave in the short tail at the top.

Now, along the front opening of the hood, work a single crochet border: starting at the bottom corner of one side, sc evenly up the side, across the top seam, and down the other side. Join with a slip stitch and fasten off. This gives the hood a tidy, polished edge.

To attach the hood: Slip the hood over the bunny’s head. Using pink yarn and a yarn needle, tack the bottom edge of the hood loosely to the neck area with a few invisible stitches on each side. You want the hood to look like it’s sitting naturally on the bunny’s head, not stretched or pulled.

Part 6: The Tail

Using cream or white yarn:

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 4: Dec around. (6 sts)

Stuff lightly and close. Attach to the back lower portion of the body.

Assembly

Once all your pieces are finished, it’s time to put everything together. Lay all your pieces out on a flat surface first so you can plan where everything will go.

Start by sewing the head to the body. Use the long tail you left and a yarn needle to stitch them together, making sure the head sits centered and upright. Work all the way around the neck opening for a secure join.

Next, pin the ears in place on top of the head. Position them so they frame the face nicely — typically about 4 to 5 stitches apart, leaning very slightly outward. Sew each ear securely with its long tail.

Attach the arms to either side of the body, roughly at the level of Round 10 on the body. Stitch them so they point slightly downward and outward.

Attach the fluffy tail to the center back of the body at the bottom.

Finally, slip the hood over the head and tack it gently in place as described above.

Attaching the Keychain Hardware

Use your yarn needle and a short length of yarn to create a loop through the top of the bunny’s head — just a few stitches back and forth through the top center of the hood and head — and slip your split ring or lobster clasp through this loop before you pull it tight. Knot it securely and weave in the end.

Alternatively, you can insert a small metal jump ring through the top stitches and attach your keychain hardware to that for a cleaner, more professional look.

Tips for the Best Results

Working at a tight tension is the single most important thing you can do when crocheting amigurumi. If your stitches are loose, the stuffing will peek through and the finished piece will look less polished. If you’re naturally a loose crocheter, drop down a hook size.

When stuffing, don’t overfill. The body and head should feel firm and round but not stretched. Overstuffing can distort the shape and pull your decreases open.

If you’re planning to give this bunny keychain as a gift and it will be around young children, replace the safety eyes with embroidered ones using black yarn or embroidery floss. It only takes a minute and makes the keychain completely safe for little ones.

A tiny dot of blush powder on each cheek (applied with a cotton swab) gives your bunny the sweetest rosy glow. This is completely optional but highly recommended — it takes five seconds and looks adorable.

Variations to Try

Once you’ve made one of these little bunnies, you may find it hard to stop at just one. There are so many ways to personalize this pattern and make each bunny feel unique.

Try swapping the pink hood for a lavender, mint, or pale yellow one to create a whole collection of seasonal bunnies. A white hood with silver yarn details makes a gorgeous winter bunny. A deep dusty rose hood looks stunning with a warm brown or caramel body.

You can also add a tiny scarf by crocheting a small rectangle in a contrasting color and tying it loosely around the bunny’s neck. A miniature bow made from ribbon or crocheted chain looks precious too.

For a Halloween version, make the hood in orange or black. For Christmas, deep red with a tiny pompom on top of the hood turns this bunny into the coziest holiday ornament.

Gifting and Display Ideas

These bunny keychains make extraordinary handmade gifts. Package them in a small clear cellophane bag with a handwritten tag and a piece of ribbon, and you have the most thoughtful present imaginable for a birthday, baby shower, Valentine’s Day, Easter, or just because.

They’re also popular as market items if you sell your crochet work. Because they’re small and work up quickly, you can create a significant inventory without burning out. A basket of colorful hooded bunny keychains at a craft fair will draw people in from across the room.

If you’re a teacher or you run a crochet club, this is an excellent beginner-to-intermediate project for introducing students to amigurumi techniques without overwhelming them with complex shaping.

Sharing Your Makes

If you use this pattern, I’d absolutely love to see what you create. Please share your finished bunnies on social media and tag the post so others in the crafting community can find this free pattern too. Seeing your finished makes — each one slightly different, slightly personal — is genuinely one of the best parts of sharing patterns.

Whether your bunny turns out perfectly symmetrical or has one ear slightly taller than the other, it’s handmade with care and that makes it beautiful. Every imperfection in an amigurumi tells the story of the hands that made it.

Happy crocheting, and enjoy every single stitch of your tiny pink-hooded bunny.