
10+ Coin Purse Knitting Patterns – Page 3 of 3
Welcome back to the final installment of our three-part series on coin purse knitting patterns! If you’ve been following along from the beginning, you’ve already explored a wide variety of styles, techniques, and finishes for these satisfying little projects. Now we’re wrapping things up with even more creative ideas, helpful tips for finishing your purses professionally, and a few deeper dives into techniques that will genuinely elevate your knitting game.
Whether you’re a beginner just finding your footing with small accessories or an experienced knitter looking for a quick and rewarding project, coin purses are one of those wonderful knitting staples that never go out of style. They make thoughtful handmade gifts, great stall items for craft fairs, and a perfect way to use up yarn scraps sitting in your stash. Let’s get into it.
Pattern 8: The Fair Isle Mini Coin Pouch
Fair Isle colorwork might sound intimidating for such a small project, but a coin purse is actually the ideal canvas for practicing stranded knitting. Because the piece is compact, you’re only ever carrying yarn across a short span of stitches, which makes managing floats much more approachable than it would be on a full sweater or hat.
For this pattern, cast on 36 stitches using a deep navy or charcoal as your main color, then work a simple two-color repeating motif in cream or ivory. Traditional Fair Isle motifs — small diamonds, cross shapes, or simple flower buds — work beautifully here. Aim for a motif that repeats across six to eight stitches so the pattern tiles cleanly around the purse without awkward breaks.
Work the colorwork section over approximately 20 rows, then switch back to your main color for a plain garter or stockinette finish at the top. When you close the purse with a zipper or frame, only the colorwork panel will show prominently, making even a modest effort look polished and intentional.
A key tip for stranded knitting beginners: don’t pull your floats too tightly. The most common mistake when knitting Fair Isle for the first time is cinching the fabric inward by tugging the carried yarn, which creates puckering and stiffness. Let the yarn run loosely across the back of the work, and your finished purse will lie flat and open gracefully.
Pattern 9: The Ribbed Snap Purse
Ribbing is typically associated with sock cuffs and sweater hems, but it creates a wonderfully textured and stretchy fabric for a coin purse — particularly one you plan to close with a snap or button closure rather than a zipper frame.
Cast on 40 stitches in a chunky or worsted weight yarn in any solid or semi-solid color. Work in a simple 2×2 rib (knit two, purl two) for the entire body of the purse, roughly 30 to 35 rows. The natural elasticity of ribbing means the purse will contract slightly when worn in a pocket and spring back into shape when opened. This makes it feel substantial in hand while remaining soft and flexible.
To finish the top edge, switch to stockinette for four or five rows, then fold this plain section over to the inside and whipstitch it down to create a clean hem. Sew your snaps through both layers of this hem so the hardware is anchored securely. Because you’re working through a doubled layer, the snaps will hold firm even after heavy use.
For a refined look, choose snaps with a gold or antique brass tone and pair them with a rich jewel-toned yarn — deep emerald, plum, or sapphire blue. The combination of simple structure and thoughtful detail is what makes handmade accessories feel genuinely luxurious rather than homespun.
Pattern 10: The Seed Stitch Frame Purse
Seed stitch is one of those timeless textures that looks far more complicated than it actually is. Alternating knit and purl stitches on every row creates a pebbly, dimensional fabric that holds its shape exceptionally well — a quality that matters a great deal when you’re fitting your finished knitting onto a metal purse frame.
For this pattern, cast on 50 stitches and work in seed stitch (knit one, purl one, alternating which stitches you knit and purl on every row) until the piece measures approximately five inches. Because seed stitch doesn’t curl like stockinette, your knitting will naturally lie flat throughout the project, which makes it easy to measure and assess as you go.
Block your finished piece gently before attaching the frame. Even seed stitch benefits from a light blocking — the stitches open up and even out, making the fabric look more refined and making the frame attachment process much easier. Lay the knitting flat on a blocking mat, mist it lightly with water, and let it dry completely before moving forward.
To attach a kiss-lock or sew-in frame, fold the top edge of your knitting over to meet the inside of the frame channel and use a sturdy needle and waxed thread or thin yarn to whipstitch through both the knitted fabric and the small holes along the inside of the frame. Work slowly and evenly to ensure the gathers are distributed consistently — nothing detracts from a beautiful frame purse quite like uneven bunching at the top.
Pattern 11: The Log Cabin Patchwork Coin Bag
If you have a collection of yarn scraps in different colors that you’ve been meaning to use up, this pattern is practically tailor-made for your stash. Inspired by the log cabin quilt pattern, this coin purse is built by knitting small rectangular strips and seaming them together into a patchwork panel before assembling the final purse.
Start with a small center square — approximately ten stitches by ten rows — then knit progressively longer strips around each side of the square, rotating 90 degrees each time you add a new strip. This creates the characteristic log cabin effect where concentric rectangles radiate outward from the center. Change yarn colors with each new strip to maximize the patchwork effect.
Once your panel measures roughly four inches by four inches, make a second identical panel and seam the two together along three sides before adding your chosen closure. Because you’re working with so many yarn tails and seams, take extra care to weave all ends in securely and on the inside — a coin purse endures a lot of opening and closing, and loose ends will quickly become a problem if they’re not fully anchored.
This pattern is also a wonderful teaching project. Because each strip is only a few stitches wide and a few rows long, knitters who are new to color changes or yarn management can practice these skills in a very low-stakes, short-segment format. Mistakes are easy to spot and fix before they compound.
Finishing Techniques That Make All the Difference
No matter which pattern you choose, the finishing stage is where good coin purses become great ones. It’s tempting, especially after a long knitting session, to rush through the final steps — but a few extra minutes of careful work at this stage will add years to the life of your purse and make it look genuinely professional.
Blocking is worth repeating here because it’s so often skipped. Blocking relaxes the stitches, evens out any inconsistencies in tension, and allows the yarn fibers to bloom slightly. Even for a tiny project like a coin purse, blocking takes less than fifteen minutes of active effort and makes a noticeable difference in the finished result. Wet blocking works best for natural fibers like wool, alpaca, and cotton. For acrylic yarns, a light steam blocking or a damp press cloth under a warm iron will achieve a similar effect without felting or damaging the synthetic fibers.
Lining your coin purse is another finishing step that dramatically extends its lifespan. Even the most tightly knitted fabric will eventually stretch, fray at the opening, or allow small coins to slip through tiny gaps. A simple fabric lining sewn from quilting cotton or a scrap of woven fabric solves all of these problems. Cut your lining fabric about a quarter inch larger than your knitted panel on all sides, fold the raw edges under, and slip-stitch it to the inside of the purse. The lining will also protect the zipper tape from catching on your yarn, which is a very common frustration with unlined knitted zipper pouches.
Stabilizing the opening is particularly important if you’re attaching a zipper. The top edge of a knitted coin purse is prone to stretching as you pull it open and close it repeatedly. Before attaching your zipper, run a row of small running stitches along the very top edge of your knitting using a thin strand of the same yarn. This stabilizes the opening and prevents the edge from distorting. You can also apply a very thin line of fabric glue or seam sealant along the top edge before stitching the zipper in place, which will help anchor the knitting to the zipper tape and prevent it from shifting over time.
Choosing the Right Yarn for Coin Purses
Yarn selection is one of the most important decisions you’ll make for a coin purse project, and it’s worth thinking about more carefully than you might for a project like a scarf, where yarn choice is more forgiving.
Durability should be your primary consideration. Coin purses take a lot of abuse — they’re shoved into bags, stuffed with heavy metal coins, zipped and unzipped hundreds of times, and occasionally dropped. Yarns with some nylon content, like many sock yarns, offer excellent durability and wear resistance. If you prefer pure natural fibers, a tightly spun wool like a DK or sport weight merino will hold up well over time.
Avoid very fluffy or halo yarns like mohair or angora for the main body of a coin purse. These fibers may look beautiful but they catch on zippers, shed onto the contents of the purse, and pill quickly with friction. Save those luxurious yarns for the decorative elements — a fluffy pom-pom on the zipper pull, for example — and use a smoother yarn for the body.
Fingering and sock weight yarns are the classic choice for knitted coin purses because they create a fine, dense fabric that holds its shape. However, DK weight works perfectly well if you prefer a softer, chunkier result or want to knit up a project even faster. Just be aware that heavier yarn will produce a slightly bulkier purse that may not fit as neatly inside a small handbag pocket.
Colorwise, have fun. Coin purses are small enough that even the boldest color combinations or most complex variegated yarns can work beautifully. Self-striping sock yarns are particularly satisfying — you get the visual complexity of multiple colors without any yarn management on your part.
Gift-Giving and Selling Your Coin Purses
Handmade coin purses are perennial favorites as gifts and craft fair items, and with good reason. They’re personal, practical, and obviously hand-crafted in a way that feels meaningful without being impractical. A coin purse takes anywhere from two hours to a full weekend depending on complexity, which makes it possible to produce multiples for holiday gifts or market stalls without burning out.
If you’re selling your coin purses, think about presentation as carefully as you think about the knitting itself. Small coin purses can be displayed inside shallow wicker baskets at craft fairs so shoppers can pick them up and handle them. Consider tying a small tag to each purse with the fiber content and care instructions — buyers appreciate knowing whether their purchase is machine washable or needs hand care.
Pricing handmade goods fairly is always a challenge, but don’t undervalue your work. A well-finished coin purse that uses quality yarn and hardware — a metal zipper frame, a good quality zipper, solid snaps — represents real skill and real materials. Research comparable items in your local market and price accordingly, factoring in your yarn costs, hardware costs, and a reasonable hourly rate for your time.
For gift-giving, consider the recipient’s style. A Fair Isle coin purse in traditional colors would delight a friend who loves heritage crafts and classic aesthetics. A sleek seed stitch purse in a sophisticated neutral suits someone who prefers minimal, refined accessories. A playful log cabin patchwork version would make a wonderful gift for a fellow knitter or quilter who appreciates the craft behind the finished object.
Quick Tips for Every Knitter
Before we wrap up this series, here are a few quick insights gathered from experienced knitters who have made dozens of coin purses over the years.
Always make a small swatch and block it before beginning your main piece. Blocking can significantly change the dimensions of your fabric, and a coin purse that starts at five inches wide might measure six inches after blocking, throwing off your zipper fit. Swatching takes an extra twenty minutes and saves a great deal of frustration.
Keep a dedicated collection of coin purse hardware — zippers in several lengths, a variety of kiss-lock frames, snaps in multiple sizes, and some decorative rings or D-rings for strap attachments. Having hardware on hand means you can start a new purse the moment inspiration strikes, without waiting for a shipping order to arrive.
When seaming your purses, use a blunt tapestry needle and the mattress stitch for side seams. Mattress stitch creates an almost invisible join that lies flat and doesn’t add bulk at the sides of the purse. It’s worth learning this technique properly — the difference between a mattress-stitched seam and a simple whipstitch is immediately visible on a small project like a coin purse, where every detail shows.
Finally, don’t be afraid to experiment with closures beyond the standard zipper. Magnetic clasps can be sewn into the lining of a top-down coin purse and snap together invisibly when you close the flap. Decorative buttons with a loop closure add personality. Leather cord ties give a rustic, artisanal feel. The closure you choose becomes part of the overall design, so treat it as a creative decision rather than just a functional afterthought.
Wrapping Up the Series
We hope this three-part collection of coin purse knitting patterns has given you plenty of inspiration to cast on something new. Whether you’ve bookmarked a single favorite or you’re planning to work your way through every pattern on the list, these small projects offer enormous creative satisfaction for a relatively modest investment of time and materials.
Coin purses are the kind of project that reminds many knitters why they fell in love with the craft in the first place — the tactile pleasure of working with beautiful yarn, the satisfaction of a finished object you can hold in your hand, and the joy of making something useful and lovely from a simple length of fiber. These purses may be small, but they carry a lot of heart.
Happy knitting, and don’t forget to share your finished makes — we’d love to see what you create.