Make Your Own Pottery Barn Cable Knit Pillow – Willow Bloom Home
Introduction: recreating the cozy shelf appeal, one stitch at a time
There’s something irresistibly comforting about a cable knit pillow. It isn’t just a throw pillow; it’s a tactile invitation to sink into a chair, curl up with a book, and watch a living room come to life with texture and warmth. Pottery Barn has long been a go-to source for classic, magazine-worthy textures, including their iconic cable-knit pillows. The price tag, however, can be a hurdle for many design enthusiasts who want that same high-end vibe without stretching the budget. If you love the look but crave the savings and the satisfaction of a handmade finish, you’re in the right spot.
This guide from Willow Bloom Home is designed to help you Make Your Own Pottery Barn Cable Knit Pillow, with practical steps, clear material lists, and suggestions to tailor the project to your space. Whether you’re a seasoned knitter, a confident crocheter, or a complete beginner ready to learn, you’ll find reliable, actionable instructions here. By the end, you’ll have a premium-looking cable-knit pillow cover that’s tailor-made for your couch, bed, or favorite reading nook—and you’ll have earned the trusty bragging rights that come with a successful DIY project.
What makes a Pottery Barn-style cable knit pillow special?
Before you pick up your needles or yarn, it helps to understand what you’re aiming for. Pottery Barn’s cable knit pillow typically features:
– A bold, central cable motif that runs vertically across the front.
– A clean, modern color palette—neutral tones that pair with almost any decor.
– A soft yet substantial fabric feel, achieved with plush yarns or a wool blend.
– A pillow cover that looks snug and tailored, with crisp edges and neat finishing.
Your DIY version will capture that essence but give you the flexibility to choose the fiber, color, and size that fit your home. The result should be a cushion that looks and feels like a store-bought piece while carrying the charm and personality of something handmade.
Decide on your scope and size
A milk-and-honey step for any sewing or knitting project is to determine the size of your front panel and the size of the pillow insert you’ll use. In most cases, a 18-inch by 18-inch (45 cm by 45 cm) square front with an identical or similarly sized back panel (for a standard envelope closure or zipper) works beautifully for a decorative 18-inch pillow insert. If your insert is 16 inches or 20 inches square, you’ll want to adjust the front panel dimensions accordingly, and you may opt for a slightly larger front to give you a clean border when the pillow is finished.
If you’re aiming for a larger or smaller pillow, here’s a quick guide to scale:
– For a 16×16 insert: knit or crochet a front panel around 16.5 inches square (41.9 cm). Back panels would also be around 16.5 inches, with 0.25 to 0.5 inch seam allowances.
– For a 20×20 insert: aim for a front around 20.5 inches square, with matching back panels.
– If you prefer a snug envelope back that allows the insert to rest within, you can knit or crochet the front to 18×18 inches and finish with back panels that create a gentle but practical overlap.
Where the magic happens: selecting fibers and colors
Fiber choice dramatically affects the final feel of your cable knit pillow.
– Wool or wool blends: These give excellent stitch definition, warmth, and a luxurious hand. They’re ideal for a true cable look and a plush drape, but they’ll typically require care (hand wash or gentle cycle).
– Alpaca blends: For an incredibly soft, sumptuous touch, consider a wool–alpaca blend. It’s cozy but can be pricier and may shed more, depending on the blend.
– Cotton or cotton blends: If you want a lighter, summer-friendly pillow that’s easy to care for, choose a cotton or cotton–poly blend. You’ll still achieve a textured, cable-inspired look, though the fabric will be less lofty than wool.
– Aran or bulky weights: For a bold, chunky cable effect on a quick-knit project, bulky or aran-weight yarns are perfect. They create a big, tactile pattern and a showpiece front that’s visible from across the room.
Color choices:
– Neutral palette: Ivory, cream, heather gray, stone, taupe, or charcoal are classic Pottery Barn-inspired options. They work with virtually any decor.
– Subtle contrast: A pale front with a slightly darker cable panel adds depth (for example, a cream front with a warm gray central cable).
– Rich tones for drama: Deep navy, moss green, or charcoal with a lighter back can create a luxurious, modern look.
– Seasonal twists: Consider warm terracotta or forest green for fall and winter; switch to airy pastels or crisp white for spring and summer.
Special note on color and fiber care: Woolen and wool-blend yarns can pill and felt with rough washing; choose a care plan that matches your fiber. If you want easier care, choose a cotton blend or a yarn labeled as machine-washable. Always check yarn care instructions and perform a small swatch test before diving into the full project.
Tools and materials: a complete checklist
Using a well-thought-outMaterials list makes a big difference in how smoothly your project goes. Below is a practical starter list, with two main pathways: a knit front panel using yarns and needles for a traditional cable-knit look, and a simpler crochet or textured knit alternative for those who prefer a different technique or want to avoid intricate cables altogether.
Knitting route (front panel)
– Yarn: 2 to 3 skeins of a worsted- to bulky-weight yarn (check your gauge; you’ll want roughly 15–18 stitches to 4 inches in stockinette with your chosen yarn). If you’re aiming for a 18×18 front panel, you’ll likely need around 900 to 1200 yards for the front panel when working in size 8–9 (5–5.5 mm) needles, depending on gauge and the exact cable pattern you choose.
– Needles: A pair of straight or circular knitting needles in size US 7 to US 9 (4.5 to 5.5 mm) for worsted weight; for bulky weight, US 9 to US 11 (5.5 to 6.0 mm) is common. Circular needles can be particularly handy if you want to knit in the round or keep a large flat panel more manageable.
– Cable needle: A simple, small cable needle is enough to hold stitches as you cross them to create the central cable motif.
– Stitch markers: To demarcate the edges of your front panel and the center cable zone.
– Tape measure and ruler: For gauge swatches and precise sizing.
– Scissors and tapestry needle: For weaving in ends and finishing.
– Blocking supplies: A spray bottle, a blocking mat or towel, and a gentle iron for shaping, if you plan to block.
– Pillow insert: An 18×18-inch insert is a common choice; adjust depending on your final front/back measurements.
– Backing fabric: Two pieces, typically cotton or a cotton blend, sized to your pillow insert (for envelope closure, two panels around 18×18 each; for a zipper, one large piece sized to 18×18 and a zipper that matches or exceeds the width, commonly 18 inches, depending on seam allowances).
– Sewing supplies: Sewing machine or hand sewing supplies, thread that matches your back fabric, pins, and a ruler for precise seam allowances.
– Optional finishing: A seam ripper, fabric glue or fusible interfacing if you want added stability on the back or near the zipper.
Crochet or textured knit alternative route (front panel)
– Yarn: A bulky or super-bulky yarn can create a dramatic, chunky cable-like look with a simpler technique.
– Crochet hook or knitting needles: If you crochet, you’ll typically use a large hook (size H or K, around 5.0 mm to 6.5 mm, depending on yarn) and a simple textured stitch that imitates a cable (braided or ribbed crochet patterns can resemble a cable look).
– Backing fabric: Same as above.
– Closure option: Zipper or envelope closure, depending on your preference.
Gauge swatch and planning
Take time to knit or crochet a small swatch—at least 4 inches by 4 inches (10 cm by 10 cm)—in your chosen stitch to determine your gauge. This is especially important if you’re aiming for a precise 18-inch front panel. Your gauge will influence how many stitches you cast on to reach the width you want. If your swatch shows you’re getting 18 stitches per 4 inches, you’ll need roughly 81 stitches for a 18-inch width, add a few more to account for edge stitches and a tidy side margin, and you’ll land in the neighborhood of 84–90 stitches.
If you’re crochet-based, measure stitches per inch in your chosen stitch to estimate the total cast-on count needed to reach about 18 inches across.
Pattern options for the front panel: keeping the look faithful and flexible
Option 1: Classic cable panel (knit)
The classic look uses a central cable motif flanked by stockinette or garter stich edges. The exact cable repeats vary, but here’s a simple approach you can adapt:
– Cast on enough stitches to reach roughly 18 inches wide in your chosen gauge. For worsted weight with about 5 stitches per inch, you might cast on around 90 stitches.
– Work a 1- to 2-inch garter or seed-stitch edge to help the sides look neat and to set the fabric’s frame.
– Switch to stockinette for the main body while keeping a central cable motif. The cable panel should be centered and take up a comfortable width—often about 8 to 12 stitches wide, depending on your gauge and the desired prominence. The remaining stitches on the front panel are worked in stockinette, with the edges kept in a rib or seed texture for stability.
– Cable instructions: Use a 6- or 8-stitch central cross with a standard left- or right-leaning twist. A common approach is to cross 3 stitches over 3 stitches, alternating direction every few rows to create a classic rope-like cable. If you’re new to cables, there are many beginner-friendly charts available—look for a “6-stitch cable panel” and adapt it to your 90-stitch front panel. Remember to keep the edges clean and consistent as you work.
Option 2: Faux cable or textured panel (knit or crochet)
If you’d rather skip the actual cable technique, you can achieve a similar look with textures that read as “cable-inspired”:
– Seed stitch or moss stitch: This creates a grid-like texture that has a woven, cable-like vibe when used in a broad panel.
– Mock cable with knit/purl stripes: Alternate rows of K and P to create vertical ridges that echo the cable’s height. For example, work a 6- or 8-row pattern of knit 1, purl 1 in the middle, surrounded by rib-like edges.
– If you crochet, you can imitate the look using combination stitches (front post/back post stitches in crochet variations) to create raised columns that resemble cables.
Option 3: Crochet front panel for a different texture
Using a bulky yarn in crochet, a simple “rib” or “bobble” pattern may approximate a cable-like texture. A repeating pattern of front post stitches can create vertical ridges that visually mimic the cable design. Combine a few rows of the crochet texture with stockinette-like rows (in crochet terms, rows of single or half-double crochet) to create a balanced look.
Knitting the front panel: step-by-step (a practical workflow)
If you’re knitting the front, follow these steps to build a front panel that’s approximately 18 inches square, then adjust as needed for your yarn and gauge.
1) Cast on the required number of stitches. Based on your gauge swatch, this will likely be around 84 to 90 stitches for an 18-inch width with worsted-weight yarn. Use a long-tail cast-on for a neat edge.
2) Establish your edges. Work a 1- to 2-inch garter or seed-stitch edge to stabilize the sides and prevent rolling.
3) Establish the cable or texture section. In the center, allocate roughly 8 to 12 stitches for the cable panel, with stockinette or a simple rib on each side to frame it. If you’re following a cable chart, place markers at the edges of the central panel to guide your cable crossings and ensure symmetry.
4) Knit the main portion. Alternate the body in stockinette (K one row, P the next) with your cable panel crossing every few rows according to your pattern.
5) Finish the front panel. When your panel reaches roughly 18 inches square (measured unstretched), bind off loosely to avoid stiff edges.
6) Block your panel. It’s often worth blocking a knitted front panel to even out stitches and flatten edges. Gently wet block or steam-press according to your fiber’s care instructions.
7) Weave in ends. If you used multiple skeins, weave in the starting and ending ends securely on the wrong side.
8) Prepare the back panels. For a standard envelope closure, you’ll cut two back fabric panels in the same width as the front (18 inches), but you may shorten one to create overlap if you want a neat closure. If using a zipper, prepare a single back panel and a zipper that matches the width.
Back panels and closure options: envelope or zipper
Envelope closure (two back panels)
– Cut two back panels to match the front (18×18 inches, with a little extra for seam allowances, often 18.25×18.25 inches).
– Position the front panel right side up. Place back panels behind it with their right sides facing down. One back panel should be placed slightly higher than the other to create the overlap (roughly a 6-inch overlap is common, but you can adjust to taste). Pin around all four sides.
– Sew around three sides (two sides and the bottom) using a 1/4 to 1/2 inch seam allowance. Leave the top edge open or leave a small opening for a hand to reach and turn the pillow.
– Turn the pillow right side out, insert your pillow insert, and press lightly with a clean fabric to set the shape.
Zipper closure (one back panel)
– Cut one back panel to 18×18 inches (or your chosen size) with generous seam allowance along the back edge for a zipper insertion.
– Install the zipper along the edge you prefer (commonly the left or right edge). A standard method is to use a separate zipper foot on your sewing machine and sew the teeth to the back panel edge, then align and sew the front panel to the back panel along the sides and bottom, leaving the top edge open to insert the insert.
– Turn right side out, insert insert, and close with the zipper.
Blocking and finishing touches that elevate your project
Blocking is optional but highly recommended for a crisp, professional finish.
– Wet block the front panel after knitting. Gently rinse or spray with water and lay the panel flat on a blocking mat, shaping it to the exact 18×18 dimension. Smooth the edges and let it dry completely.
– If you chose a textured or faux-cable look, you may want to do a light steam press around the edges to keep lines sharp. Check your yarn label for safe steaming guidelines.
– For back panels, a light press with a steam-safe cloth can help them lay flat and align evenly with the front.
– Weave in every loose end securely. A good weave ensures a clean finish that holds up to regular use.
Care instructions for your DIY cable knit pillow
– If you used wool or wool-blend yarn, follow the yarn’s care label. Many wool blends tolerate gentle hand wash and flat air drying. Do not wring.
– If you used cotton, you can often machine-wash on a gentle cycle with cold water; air-dry flat to maintain shape.
– Consider a cushion cover with a removable insert so you can launder without worrying about the pillow form.
Care tips for color and fiber longevity:
– Avoid direct sunlight for long periods to prevent fading.
– Store the pillow away from sharp edges or pets that could snag the knit.
– If pilling appears on wool or wool-blend fibers, use a fabric shaver or de-pilling comb carefully to avoid shedding.
Styling ideas: making the look truly Pottery Barn-inspired
– Pair your cable-knit pillow with a coordinating throw or another knit in a similar hue to create a cohesive look.
– Place the pillow on a neutral sofa with a textured or smooth blanket to balance the texture.
– Experiment with scale: add a smaller 12×12 or 14×14 motif pillow nearby to play with composition and depth.
– Use different fabrics for the back—linen, cotton, or velvet—to shift the aesthetic between casual and refined.
– Layer with natural elements in the room—wooden coffee tables, woven baskets, and greenery—to echo the soft, organic vibe that the Pottery Barn style embodies.
Quick design variations to customize your look
– Color-blocked version: Use a lighter front panel and a contrasting cable center to create a bold focal point.
– Neutral with a pop: Choose a creamy front and a deep, saturated cable panel (think charcoal or navy) for a dramatic but timeless look.
– Textured edge finish: Add a garter-stitch or moss-stitch border around the front to frame the cable motif and give a handmade touch.
– Petite version: Scale down to a 14×14 inch front panel and smaller back panels to fit a smaller insert; the technique remains the same—adjust gauge and stitches accordingly.
Troubleshooting common issues
– Curling edges on stockinette fronts: Add a small garter-stitch border or a ribbed edge to stabilize the sides.
– Uneven cable crossings: Use a cable needle and keep the crossing counts consistent. If you’re new to cables, practice on a swatch before starting the full panel.
– Inconsistent gauge: Knit a gauge swatch and adjust the cast-on count to meet your desired width. If you’re too tight, switch to a larger needle size; if you’re too loose, switch to a smaller one.
– Back panel misalignment: Use a light marking on your fabric to align front and back edges before stitching. Baste the back panels in place first as a guide for sewing.
A note on value, time, and satisfaction
The joy of making your own Pottery Barn-style cable knit pillow goes beyond the finished product. It’s the process—choosing the yarn, knitting or crocheting the design, blocking to a crisp shape, and assembling with careful seams—that delivers a sense of accomplishment. You’ll have learned techniques you can reuse for future projects, and you’ll own a textile piece that was made by your hands, tailored to your space, and designed to last.
Estimated time and effort:
– Planning and swatching: 1–2 hours (including choosing colors and verifying gauge).
– Front panel knitting or crochet: 6–12 hours depending on weight, pattern complexity, and your pace. A bulky yarn with a simple faux-cable texture may be faster; a traditional cable panel will take longer.
– Back panel assembly and closures: 2–4 hours (depending on whether you sew two fabric panels for an envelope closure or install a zipper).
– Blocking, finishing, and assembly: 1–2 hours.
– Total time: Depending on your rhythm, this project can be completed in a few days or a weekend.
Where to buy supplies and how to save
– Local yarn shops often carry ready-to-use bulky or worsted-weight yarns with a rich palette of naturals that fit a Pottery Barn aesthetic.
– Large craft stores regularly stock affordable skeins in neutrals and soft whites, perfect for experimenting with color before committing to a higher-end yarn.
– If you want premium fiber with a show-stopping finish, consider a wool–merino blend or a high-quality cotton blend.
– For the fabric back, choose a medium-weight cotton or cotton-linen blend for structure without too much stiffness.
Final thoughts: bring the Pottery Barn look home with your own twist
A DIY Pottery Barn cable-knit pillow is more than just a decorative item. It’s a small, tangible expression of design taste and craftmanship. The process invites you to slow down, choose a palette that resonates with your room, and create something beautiful that will be a staple in your space for years to come. The result is a pillow that looks both polished and personal—the kind of accessory you’ll reach for again and again as your home evolves.
Willow Bloom Home hopes this guide helps you feel confident about making your own Pottery Barn–style cable knit pillow. If you’ve enjoyed the process, consider expanding the project: knit a second pillow in a different color for contrast, or create a set of two or three pillows with complementary cable patterns and textures. You might find that layering textures—cable knits, woven throws, and soft linens—creates a space that feels thoughtfully curated rather than styled.
Ready to start? Gather your yarn, pick a color palette, and lay out your front panel plan. Set up a comfortable workspace, and give yourself permission to enjoy the process as much as the finished piece. Whether you’re an avid knitter or a curious beginner, this project is designed to be approachable, satisfying, and ultimately rewarding.
If you’d like, you can share photos of your finished pillow or your work-in-progress in the comments. We’d love to see how your Pottery Barn-inspired cable knit pillow turns out and how you’ve styled it in your home. The Willow Bloom Home community thrives on shared creativity, inspiration, and the joy of making something with your own hands.
Thank you for reading, and happy stitching, from Willow Bloom Home.
