Knit Bobble Sheep Pillow Free Pattern in 2 Sizes
There is something quietly magical about a handknit pillow that sits in the corner of a sofa and makes everyone who walks into the room smile. If you have been searching for a project that combines texture, whimsy, and genuine usefulness, this knit bobble sheep pillow pattern is exactly what you need. Better yet, it comes in two sizes, so whether you want a smaller accent cushion or a generous, sprawling statement piece, you can cast on with confidence. This is a free pattern written for knitters with some experience working in the round and making bobbles, but adventurous beginners should not be intimidated — the techniques here are repetitive, satisfying, and very forgiving.
Let me walk you through everything: materials, gauge, sizing, the full stitch-by-stitch instructions, finishing tips, and some ideas for customizing the design to suit your home.
Why a Bobble Sheep Pillow?
Sheep and knitting have always had a special relationship. The wool comes from the sheep, the sheep shows up on the pillow — it is a full circle moment, and knitters everywhere seem to appreciate that irony with great warmth. Beyond the charm, bobble texture is one of the most satisfying knitting techniques to work. Each little puff of yarn that forms beneath your needles builds up into a fabric that looks incredibly complex but is made entirely of basic knit and purl movements. The finished pillow has a wonderfully dimensional face, with the sheep’s body formed entirely from clusters of bobbles that mimic the fluffy, cloud-like texture of real wool.
These pillows make fantastic gifts for baby showers, housewarming parties, or as a treat for a fellow knitter who appreciates the craft behind a finished object. They also make lovely decorations for a nursery, a living room reading nook, or a bedroom with a farmhouse or cottagecore aesthetic.
Materials and Tools
Before you cast on, gather everything you will need. Having your supplies organized before starting a textured pattern saves a lot of interruption mid-row.
For the Small Pillow (approximately 12 x 12 inches finished):
You will need approximately 200 yards of bulky weight yarn (yarn weight 5) in white or cream for the sheep body, 50 yards of the same yarn in black for the head and legs, US size 9 (5.5mm) straight or circular needles, a tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends, stitch markers, a 12-inch square pillow insert, and two small black buttons or safety eyes for the face.
For the Large Pillow (approximately 18 x 18 inches finished):
You will need approximately 400 yards of bulky weight yarn in white or cream, 100 yards in black, US size 9 (5.5mm) needles, a tapestry needle, stitch markers, an 18-inch square pillow insert, and two small black buttons or safety eyes.
Optional but helpful: a cable needle if you choose to add a decorative border, a row counter to track your bobble placement, and locking stitch markers to hold sections in place.
For yarn choices, almost any bulky wool or wool-blend yarn works beautifully here. Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick, Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky, and Cascade Yarns Magnum all give excellent stitch definition for the bobbles. If you are knitting this for a baby or young child, look for a superwash wool or a soft acrylic to ensure the pillow is machine washable.
Gauge
Gauge: 14 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US size 9 needles.
Always, always knit a gauge swatch before beginning. Bobble fabric draws in more than plain stockinette, so your gauge swatch should include at least one bobble row so you can account for any compression in the fabric width. If your swatch is too large, go down a needle size. If it is too small, go up a needle size. The finished size of your pillow depends on accurate gauge, and even half an inch off per four inches becomes noticeable across an 18-inch span.
Abbreviations and Special Stitches
k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together
ssk: slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
MB (Make Bobble): Knit into the front, back, front, back, and front of the same stitch (5 stitches made from 1). Turn work. P5. Turn work. K5. Turn work. P2tog, p1, p2tog (3 stitches). Turn work. K3tog (1 stitch remains). One bobble complete.
st(s): stitch(es)
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
rep: repeat
pm: place marker
sm: slip marker
The bobble technique described above creates a firm, round little puff that sits on the right side of your work. If you prefer a slightly softer bobble, you can reduce the rows inside the bobble to just the knit and purl turns without the decreases and simply pass all stitches over the last one. Try both on your swatch and see which you prefer.
The Pattern: Small Bobble Sheep Pillow (12 inches)
Front Panel
Cast on 42 stitches using white or cream yarn.
Row 1 (WS): Purl across.
Row 2 (RS): Knit across.
Row 3: Purl across.
Row 4: K3, MB, k5, MB; rep from to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 5: Purl across.
Row 6: Knit across.
Row 7: Purl across.
Row 8: K6, MB, k5, MB; rep from to last 5 sts, k5.
Continue alternating bobble rows as set above (bobbles staggered by 3 stitches each right-side row they appear) for a total of 22 rows of bobble fabric. This creates the main body of the sheep.
After row 22, cut white yarn and join black yarn.
Row 23 (WS): Purl across in black.
Row 24 (RS): Knit across.
Row 25: Purl across.
Row 26: K4, k2tog, k10, ssk, k8, k2tog, k10, ssk, k2. (38 sts)
Row 27: Purl across.
Row 28: K4, k2tog, k8, ssk, k6, k2tog, k8, ssk, k2. (34 sts)
Row 29: Purl across.
Row 30: Knit across.
Bind off all stitches. This shaped section at the bottom of the front panel creates the illusion of legs emerging from the body.
Leg Details (make 4 small rectangles)
Using black yarn, cast on 4 stitches. Work in stockinette for 10 rows. Bind off. These small strips will be sewn to the lower edge of the pillow as stubby little legs. Set aside.
Ear Details (make 2)
Using black yarn, cast on 6 stitches. Work 4 rows in stockinette, then k2tog at the beginning and end of the next row (4 sts). Bind off. Fold slightly and sew with a few gathering stitches at the cast-on edge to create a rounded ear shape.
Back Panel
Using white or cream yarn, cast on 42 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) for 60 rows. Bind off. The back is kept plain to save yarn and to make the pillow insert easy to slip in and out if you seam on three sides and use buttons or snaps for the fourth.
The Pattern: Large Bobble Sheep Pillow (18 inches)
Front Panel
Cast on 63 stitches using white or cream yarn.
Row 1 (WS): Purl across.
Row 2 (RS): Knit across.
Row 3: Purl across.
Row 4: K3, MB, k5, MB; rep from to last 5 sts, k5.
Row 5: Purl across.
Row 6: Knit across.
Row 7: Purl across.
Row 8: K6, MB, k5, MB; rep from to last 3 sts, k3.
Continue alternating and staggering bobble rows as established for a total of 34 rows of bobble fabric.
After row 34, cut white yarn and join black yarn.
Row 35 (WS): Purl across in black.
Row 36 (RS): Knit across.
Row 37: Purl across.
Row 38: K5, k2tog, k15, ssk, k11, k2tog, k15, ssk, k5. (59 sts)
Row 39: Purl across.
Row 40: K5, k2tog, k12, ssk, k9, k2tog, k12, ssk, k5. (55 sts)
Row 41: Purl across.
Row 42: Knit across.
Bind off all stitches.
Leg Details (make 4)
Using black yarn, cast on 5 stitches. Work in stockinette for 15 rows. Bind off.
Ear Details (make 2)
Using black yarn, cast on 8 stitches. Work 6 rows in stockinette, then k2tog at each end of the next row (6 sts). Work 2 more rows, then bind off.
Back Panel
Cast on 63 stitches in white or cream. Work in stockinette for 90 rows. Bind off.
Finishing and Assembly
This is the step that transforms a collection of flat knitted pieces into something that looks like it belongs in a boutique home shop, so take your time here.
Block both panels before assembly. Wet blocking bulky yarn softens the fabric and evens out any uneven bobbles. Lay the pieces flat on a blocking mat, pin to measurements, and allow to dry completely — ideally overnight. The difference in the bobble definition before and after blocking is remarkable.
To assemble, hold the front and back panels with wrong sides together. Using your tapestry needle and a length of matching yarn, seam three sides using mattress stitch for a nearly invisible join. If you want a clean border, you can pick up stitches along the edge and work a few rounds of single rib or garter stitch all the way around before seaming — this gives the pillow a slightly more polished, structured look.
Before seaming the final side, insert your pillow form. A pillow insert that is one inch larger than your knitted cover gives the pillow a plump, full appearance rather than a limp one. Once the insert is in, seam the final side closed, or, if you prefer to be able to remove the insert for washing, sew three or four buttons along that edge and pick up stitches on the front panel to create simple button loops using a small crochet hook or a worked i-cord button loop.
To attach the legs, sew each of the four small black rectangles to the lower edge of the front panel, evenly spaced, with the sewn end tucked under the last row of black knitting so they hang down from beneath the sheep’s body. A few firm stitches through both the leg piece and the front panel at each attachment point will keep them secure even with regular use.
For the ears, sew one on each upper corner of the black section of the front panel. The gathering stitch at the base of each ear creates a slight curve that makes them stand up adorably.
Finally, sew on two small black buttons or attach safety eyes in the appropriate position on the black section of the front panel to create the sheep’s face. If you are making this pillow for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead of using buttons or safety eyes to eliminate any choking hazard.
Customization Ideas
One of the great joys of a pattern this simple in its overall construction is how easy it is to make it your own.
Color variations: A pale grey sheep with a charcoal black face is a lovely alternative to the classic white and black. You could also make a black sheep with white accents for an unexpected twist, or go completely fanciful with a lavender or pastel pink body for a child’s room.
Bobble density: For a denser, cloudier texture, reduce the spacing between bobbles to every third stitch instead of every fifth. For a more subtle texture that allows the sheep silhouette to read more clearly, increase the spacing to every seventh stitch.
Face details: Adding a tiny embroidered smile with a curved stitch of black yarn beneath the safety eyes gives the sheep an instantly more characterful expression. A little pink nose worked in satin stitch adds another touch of personality.
Border treatments: A seed stitch border worked all the way around both panels before assembly gives the finished pillow a crisp, neat frame that makes the bobble body pop visually. Alternatively, a contrast color border in the black yarn used for the sheep’s head creates a cohesive, deliberate design statement.
Appliqué additions: A tiny knitted flower, a small embroidered daisy chain, or even a miniature knitted bow sewn onto one of the ears can make the sheep distinctly female, which works beautifully for a nursery or gift.
Multiple sheep: For a truly showstopping decorative piece, consider knitting a larger pillow with two sheep side by side, each facing the center of the pillow. It requires more planning and increases the stitch count substantially, but the effect is charming and the construction principles are identical.
Tips for Knitting Bobbles Without Frustration
Bobbles are one of those techniques that knitters either love immediately or find maddening for the first few attempts. A few practical notes will help.
First, when you are making your bobbles, keep the yarn fairly loose during the increases. Tight increases make the subsequent rows inside the bobble very difficult to work and lead to distorted, flat bobbles rather than plump round ones. Second, use the tip of your needle to nudge each completed bobble to the right side of the fabric as soon as you finish it — once you have completed the k3tog at the end, that bobble wants to pop through to the front, and a gentle push from the wrong side while you are still on that row ensures it sits properly. Third, remember that the purl rows between bobble rows are your breathing rows. Do not rush them. A smooth, even purl row gives your bobbles the background they need to look their best.
If a bobble turns out looking slightly smaller or larger than its neighbors, do not worry. The beauty of a sheep is that real wool is wonderfully irregular. A slightly lumpy bobble just adds to the organic charm of the piece.
Caring for Your Finished Pillow
If you used a wool yarn, hand wash the pillow cover in cool water with a gentle wool wash and lay flat to dry. Avoid wringing or agitating, which will cause the bobbles to felt together. If you used a superwash wool or an acrylic yarn, the cover can generally be machine washed on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag and dried flat or on a low tumble setting.
Remove the pillow insert before washing and reinsert once the cover is fully dry. Store the pillow in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to preserve the color of your yarn over time.
A Final Note
This bobble sheep pillow pattern is the kind of project that gets noticed. People will pick it up, squeeze the bobbles, smile at the little legs, and ask where you bought it — at which point you get to say you made it yourself, which is the best possible answer to that question. Both sizes have their own particular appeal: the small pillow is a quick, satisfying knit that you can finish in a weekend, while the large pillow is a more substantial project that rewards your time with a genuinely impressive finished object.
Whether you are knitting this for your own home, as a gift, or simply because you wanted to finally try bobbles and needed the right excuse, this is your pattern. Cast on, take your time, push those bobbles to the front, and enjoy every single stitch.
Happy knitting.
