Knit Bobble Sheep Pillow Free Pattern in 2 Sizes

There is something undeniably cheerful about a sheep pillow sitting on a couch or a child’s bed. The fluffy texture, the sweet little face peeking out from a cloud of bobbles — it is the kind of handmade object that makes people stop and ask, “Did you make that?” And now you can say yes, because this free knitting pattern gives you everything you need to create your very own bobble sheep pillow in two sizes: a smaller version perfect for nurseries and children’s rooms, and a larger version that holds its own on a living room sofa.

This pattern is beginner-friendly in its construction, though the bobble stitch does require a little patience. If you have never made a bobble before, do not worry — the technique is explained in full, and after your first dozen you will be flying through them. The result is a pillow that looks impressively intricate while actually being quite achievable on a weekend afternoon.

Whether you are knitting this as a gift, as a nursery decoration, or simply because you love sheep as much as any fiber artist reasonably should, this pattern is here for you. Let us get started.

Materials You Will Need

Before casting on, gather your supplies. Having everything within reach before you begin makes the whole project more enjoyable.

For the Small Pillow (approximately 10 x 10 inches finished):

You will need approximately 150 yards of bulky weight (size 5) white or cream yarn for the body, around 50 yards of worsted weight (size 4) black or dark grey yarn for the face and legs, a pair of US size 8 (5mm) knitting needles, a pair of US size 7 (4.5mm) needles for the face details, a 10-inch square pillow insert, a tapestry needle for finishing, and two small buttons or safety eyes for the face.

For the Large Pillow (approximately 16 x 16 inches finished):

You will need approximately 300 yards of bulky weight (size 5) white or cream yarn for the body, around 80 yards of worsted weight (size 4) black or dark grey yarn for the face and legs, a pair of US size 8 (5mm) knitting needles, a pair of US size 7 (4.5mm) needles for the face details, a 16-inch square pillow insert, a tapestry needle for finishing, and two medium buttons or safety eyes for the face.

For both sizes:

Stitch markers are helpful but not required. A crochet hook in a size that matches your yarn weight can make picking up stitches and joining seams easier. Scissors and a measuring tape round out your basic toolkit.

Yarn Recommendations:

Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick works beautifully for the white body sections. Cascade 220 in black or charcoal is a reliable choice for the face and legs. Any yarn that knits to gauge will work, so feel free to use what you have in your stash — this is a great stash-busting project.

Gauge

Getting gauge is worth checking here, especially because a too-large or too-small pillow cover will not fit your insert well.

For the body (bulky weight on US 8 needles): 14 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch.

For the face (worsted weight on US 7 needles): 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch.

If your gauge is off, adjust your needle size up or down accordingly. Going up a needle size will give you a looser, larger swatch. Going down will tighten things up. Take the extra ten minutes to swatch — future you will appreciate it.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

Standard Abbreviations:

CO = cast on, BO = bind off, K = knit, P = purl, RS = right side, WS = wrong side, St(s) = stitch(es), Rep = repeat, PM = place marker, SM = slip marker.

The Bobble Stitch (MB):

This is the heart of the pattern and what gives your sheep that wonderful fluffy texture. Here is how to work a bobble:

Into the next stitch, work (K1, yarn over, K1, yarn over, K1) — you now have 5 stitches on the right needle where you previously had 1. Turn your work so the wrong side is facing you and purl those 5 stitches. Turn again to the right side and knit those 5 stitches. Turn to the wrong side once more and purl 2 together, purl 1, purl 2 together — you are back to 3 stitches. Turn to the right side and slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over — the bobble is complete and you are back to 1 stitch.

That may sound involved when written out, but after your first few bobbles it will become automatic. Some knitters find it helpful to use a cable needle or crochet hook to manage the bobble stitches until they get comfortable with the technique.

The Pattern: Small Sheep Pillow (10 x 10 inches)

Front Panel — Bobble Body

Using bulky white yarn and US size 8 needles, cast on 36 stitches.

Work 4 rows in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS), beginning with a knit row.

Begin Bobble Section:

Row 5 (RS): K3, MB, K3, rep from to last stitch, K1.
Row 6 (WS): Purl all stitches.
Row 7 (RS): K1, MB, K3, rep from to last 3 stitches, MB, K2.
Row 8 (WS): Purl all stitches.

Repeat rows 5 through 8 until the piece measures approximately 7.5 inches from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Work 4 rows in stockinette stitch.

Bind off all stitches loosely.

Face Panel

Using black worsted weight yarn and US size 7 needles, cast on 18 stitches.

Work in stockinette stitch for 2.5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Bind off all stitches.

This face panel will be seamed onto the front of the pillow.

Legs (make 4)

Using black worsted weight yarn and US size 7 needles, cast on 6 stitches.

Work in stockinette stitch for 2 inches. Bind off.

Roll each leg lengthwise and seam along the long edge to form a small tube. These will be attached along the bottom of the pillow.

Ears (make 2)

Using white bulky yarn and US size 8 needles, cast on 6 stitches.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Row 3: K2tog, K2, K2tog — 4 stitches remain.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K2tog twice — 2 stitches remain.
Row 6: P2tog. Break yarn and pull through.

Back Panel

Using white bulky yarn and US size 8 needles, cast on 36 stitches.

Work in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 10 inches from cast-on edge.

Bind off all stitches loosely.

The Pattern: Large Sheep Pillow (16 x 16 inches)

Front Panel — Bobble Body

Using bulky white yarn and US size 8 needles, cast on 56 stitches.

Work 6 rows in stockinette stitch, beginning with a knit row.

Begin Bobble Section:

Row 7 (RS): K3, MB, K3, rep from to last stitch, K1.
Row 8 (WS): Purl all stitches.
Row 9 (RS): K1, MB, K3, rep from to last 3 stitches, MB, K2.
Row 10 (WS): Purl all stitches.

Repeat rows 7 through 10 until the piece measures approximately 12 inches from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Work 6 rows in stockinette stitch.

Bind off all stitches loosely.

Face Panel

Using black worsted weight yarn and US size 7 needles, cast on 28 stitches.

Work in stockinette stitch for 4 inches, ending with a WS row.

Bind off all stitches.

Legs (make 4)

Using black worsted weight yarn and US size 7 needles, cast on 8 stitches.

Work in stockinette stitch for 3 inches. Bind off.

Roll and seam each leg into a tube as described for the small version.

Ears (make 2)

Using white bulky yarn and US size 8 needles, cast on 8 stitches.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Row 3: K2tog, K4, K2tog — 6 stitches remain.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K2tog, K2, K2tog — 4 stitches remain.
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: K2tog twice — 2 stitches remain.
Row 8: P2tog. Break yarn and pull through.

Back Panel

Using white bulky yarn and US size 8 needles, cast on 56 stitches.

Work in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 16 inches from cast-on edge.

Bind off all stitches loosely.

Finishing Your Sheep Pillow

This is where your sheep comes to life, and it is genuinely one of the most satisfying parts of the whole project.

Attaching the Face:

Position the face panel in the lower quarter of the front bobble panel, centered horizontally. For the small pillow, this means roughly 1.5 inches from the bottom edge. For the large pillow, place it about 2.5 inches from the bottom edge. Pin it in place, then use a tapestry needle and matching yarn to seam it on using a whip stitch around the perimeter. Keep your stitches neat and even for the cleanest look.

Adding the Eyes:

Sew on your buttons or attach safety eyes approximately 1 inch apart on the upper half of the face panel. If this pillow is intended for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes instead using a simple French knot in white yarn, which is safer than any button or hardware. Even for older children, embroidered eyes have a sweet, vintage quality that many knitters prefer.

Attaching the Ears:

Fold each ear piece slightly at the base to give it a little dimension, then sew them to the top of the front panel on either side, just above where the face panel sits. The ears should angle outward slightly, like a real sheep’s ears do.

Attaching the Legs:

Pin the four leg tubes along the bottom edge of the front panel, with two on each side of the face panel. Stitch them securely in place. They should hang below the bottom of the pillow cover once the panels are seamed together, giving the finished pillow a three-dimensional quality that people absolutely love.

Seaming the Pillow:

Place the front and back panels together with right sides facing each other. Using your tapestry needle and a length of white yarn, seam along three sides using a mattress stitch or whip stitch. Leave one side open. Turn the cover right side out, insert your pillow form, and seam the final edge closed. If you would like to be able to remove the cover for washing, you can leave the bottom edge open and add a few snaps or a length of ribbon ties to close it.

Weaving in Ends:

Before you consider the project finished, go back and weave in all your yarn tails carefully. Each bobble creates a small tail if you cut your yarn between bobbles (some knitters work bobbles in a continuous yarn, others cut between — both methods work). Take your time with this step. A well-finished pillow will last for years.

Tips for Knitting Beautiful Bobbles

If you are new to bobble stitch, a few tips will save you a lot of frustration.

Keep your tension consistent. Bobbles that are too tight sit flat and do not puff properly. Bobbles that are too loose look sloppy. Practice on a swatch until you find the tension that creates a nicely rounded bobble.

Use a longer needle if you are struggling to work the five stitches of each bobble. A needle that is too short makes maneuvering awkward. Circular needles can also help because you have more needle length to work with.

Do not skip the turning rows. It is tempting to try to shortcut the bobble by skipping the turn-and-work-back steps, but those turns are what create the three-dimensional puff. Without them, you end up with something that looks like a blister rather than a bobble.

For very fluffy bobbles, try using slightly thicker yarn or a slightly larger needle than the pattern calls for just for the bobble stitches themselves, then return to your regular needle for the rest of the row. This is an advanced tweak, but it can produce spectacular results.

Variations and Customization Ideas

One of the best things about this pattern is how easy it is to personalize.

Color variations: A black sheep pillow made with all-black bobbles on the body and a white or cream face is charming and unexpected. You could also knit the bobble body in a soft grey for a more muted, sophisticated palette that would look at home in a Scandinavian-style living room.

Embroidery details: Use a single strand of pink yarn to embroider a small nose and mouth onto the face panel. A simple upside-down Y shape for the mouth and a tiny vertical stitch for the nose is all it takes to give your sheep a complete expression.

Add a tail: A small pompom in white yarn attached to the center back of the pillow is an adorable detail that many knitters add. Use a pompom maker or simply wrap yarn around two fingers about forty times, slide it off, tie it tightly in the middle, and trim the loops.

Size adjustments: If you need a size between the two offered here — say, a 12-inch pillow — simply adjust your cast-on count proportionally and maintain the four-row bobble repeat. The pattern scales gracefully.

Gift wrapping: If you are giving this as a gift, stuff it lightly with polyfill instead of a pillow insert so the recipient can adjust the firmness to their preference, or use it as a decorative stuffed toy rather than a functional pillow.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a different weight yarn? Yes, with adjustments. If you use worsted weight throughout rather than bulky, your pillow will simply be smaller. Check your gauge and adjust your stitch count accordingly.

Can I knit this in the round? The flat construction of this pattern makes seaming straightforward, but you could certainly adapt it for knitting in the round if you prefer to avoid seaming. You would work the front and back as one tube, then seam the top and bottom.

What if my bobbles are not lining up correctly? Double-check that you are starting each RS bobble row from the correct position. It helps to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each row and count carefully until the pattern becomes intuitive.

How do I wash this pillow? That depends on your yarn. Always follow the care instructions on your yarn label. Many acrylic and acrylic-blend yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle, which makes this pillow practical for children’s rooms. Pure wool will require hand washing and flat drying.

A Few Words About the Joy of This Project

Handmade pillows occupy a particular place in the world of knitting projects. They are practical enough that no one questions why you made one, beautiful enough that they genuinely enhance a room, and small enough that you can finish one in a weekend without the commitment of a sweater or a blanket. The bobble sheep adds personality and whimsy to any space it inhabits.

There is also something deeply satisfying about the repetitive motion of knitting bobble after bobble. Once you find your rhythm, the work becomes almost meditative — each bobble building on the last, the texture growing under your hands, the sheep gradually taking shape row by row. If you have been looking for a project that is engaging enough to