Knit Bobble Sheep Pillow Free Pattern in 2 Sizes
There is something undeniably charming about a sheep pillow sitting on a sofa or a child’s bed. The texture, the personality, the little woolly bumps — it brings a kind of handmade warmth to any room that store-bought décor simply cannot replicate. If you have been looking for a fun knitting project that results in something both decorative and functional, this knit bobble sheep pillow pattern is exactly what you need. Best of all, it is completely free, and it comes in two sizes so you can make a small accent pillow or a larger statement piece depending on your space and your mood.
Whether you are a seasoned knitter looking for a satisfying weekend project or an intermediate knitter ready to try something with a bit more personality, this pattern walks you through every step with clear instructions, helpful tips, and all the information you need to cast on with confidence.
Why Knit a Bobble Sheep Pillow?
Bobble stitch is one of those techniques that looks far more complicated than it actually is. Once you get the rhythm of it, adding those little raised puffs to your fabric becomes genuinely enjoyable — almost meditative. Applied to a sheep design, bobbles become the fluffy wool texture of the animal’s body, creating a three-dimensional effect that is incredibly satisfying to work and even more satisfying to display.
These pillows make wonderful gifts for new babies, toddlers, farmhouse-style living rooms, nurseries, and anyone who loves animals or rustic home décor. Because the pattern comes in two sizes — a small version measuring approximately 12 inches and a larger version measuring approximately 18 inches — you can tailor the project to your available yarn stash, your available time, and your intended use.
The small pillow is perfect as a nursery accent or a child’s cuddle companion. The large pillow works beautifully as a sofa or reading nook cushion. You could even knit one of each for a coordinated look.
Materials You Will Need
Before diving into the pattern itself, let’s go over everything you will need to gather. Having your materials organized before you cast on makes the whole process smoother and more enjoyable.
For the Small Pillow (approximately 12 inches square):
You will need approximately 200 yards of bulky weight yarn (size 5 or 6) in white or cream for the sheep’s body, roughly 50 yards of the same weight in black for the face and legs, a pair of size US 9 (5.5mm) knitting needles or a size that gives you a gauge of approximately 14 stitches and 20 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch, a 12-inch square pillow insert, a yarn needle for finishing, and scissors.
For the Large Pillow (approximately 18 inches square):
You will need approximately 400 yards of bulky weight yarn in white or cream, roughly 80 yards in black, size US 10.5 (6.5mm) needles or a size that gives you 12 stitches and 16 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch, an 18-inch square pillow insert, a yarn needle, and scissors.
Optional materials for both sizes: stitch markers, a row counter, and a small amount of stuffing to puff out the bobbles slightly from the back if you want extra dimension.
A Note on Yarn
For a sheep pillow, choosing the right yarn makes a real difference in the final look. For the white or cream body, a yarn with some texture or a slight halo will enhance the woolly effect. A merino wool blend, a chunky wool roving, or even a textured boucle yarn all work beautifully. If you want extra softness for a baby or child’s pillow, look for a superwash merino or a wool-acrylic blend that holds up well to washing.
For the black sections representing the face and legs, a smooth, matte yarn in deep charcoal or true black provides a nice contrast and helps those details read clearly against the textured white body.
If you are knitting on a budget, you can absolutely use acrylic yarn for the entire project. Look for a chunky acrylic with a slightly brushed or textured surface to approximate that woolly feel.
Gauge
Gauge matters for this project because the pillow needs to fit your insert snugly. A too-loose gauge will result in a pillow cover that sags; a too-tight gauge will make it difficult to insert the pillow form.
For the small pillow: 14 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US 9 needles.
For the large pillow: 12 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US 10.5 needles.
Always knit a gauge swatch before starting. It only takes about 20 minutes and can save you from knitting an entire pillow front only to discover it is the wrong size. Block your swatch the same way you plan to block your finished pillow.
Understanding the Bobble Stitch
The bobble stitch used in this pattern is a five-stitch bobble, which creates a nice round, prominent texture. Here is how to work it:
To make a bobble (MB): In the same stitch, knit into the front, back, front, back, and front again — giving you 5 stitches from 1 stitch. Turn your work, purl those 5 stitches. Turn again, knit those 5 stitches. Turn again, purl 5. Turn once more, then use your left needle to pass the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th stitches over the first stitch, one at a time. You are back to 1 stitch, and your bobble sits neatly on the right side of the fabric.
This might feel a bit fiddly the first time, but after two or three bobbles you will have the rhythm and it becomes quite fast. The bobbles are worked on right-side rows, and on wrong-side rows you simply purl across as usual.
Pattern Instructions — Small Pillow (12 Inches)
Front Panel — Body Section (White/Cream Yarn)
Cast on 42 stitches.
Work 4 rows in garter stitch (knit every row) as a bottom border.
Begin the bobble body section. The bobbles are offset every other right-side row to create an all-over texture resembling a sheep’s fleece.
Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Row 3 (RS): K2, MB, K3 repeat to last 4 sts, MB, K3.
Row 4 (WS): Purl across.
Row 5 (RS): Knit across.
Row 6 (WS): Purl across.
Row 7 (RS): K4, MB, K3 repeat to last 2 sts, K2.
Row 8 (WS): Purl across.
Repeat rows 1 through 8 until the white body section measures approximately 7 inches from the cast-on edge, ending on a wrong-side row.
Face and Neck Section (Black Yarn)
Switch to black yarn.
Work 4 rows in stockinette stitch (knit RS, purl WS).
Then work 6 rows in garter stitch to create the face block.
Switch back to white or cream yarn.
Ear Detail (optional, worked separately and seamed on): Cast on 8 stitches in black. Work 6 rows in garter stitch. Decrease row: K2tog across (4 sts). Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitches. Make 2. Sew one on either side of the face section.
Leg Section (Black Yarn)
After the face section, switch back to white for 2 rows of stockinette, then work the leg section as follows:
With black yarn: K6, slip 30 sts with yarn in back (these will be worked in white), K6 — giving you a black border on both outer edges.
Work 8 rows total in this manner, keeping the 6 outermost stitches on each side in black (legs) and the center 30 stitches in white.
Work 4 rows in garter stitch across all stitches in black for a hoof effect.
Bind off all stitches.
Back Panel
Cast on 42 stitches in your main color (white/cream or any coordinating solid).
Work in a simple 2×2 rib (K2, P2 across all rows) for the entire back panel until it measures the same height as the front panel. Bind off in rib.
Pattern Instructions — Large Pillow (18 Inches)
Front Panel — Body Section (White/Cream Yarn)
Cast on 54 stitches.
Work 6 rows in garter stitch as a bottom border.
Begin the bobble body section using the same offset pattern described above.
Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Row 3 (RS): K2, MB, K3 repeat to last 4 sts, MB, K3.
Row 4 (WS): Purl across.
Row 5 (RS): Knit across.
Row 6 (WS): Purl across.
Row 7 (RS): K4, MB, K3 repeat to last 2 sts, K2.
Row 8 (WS): Purl across.
Repeat rows 1 through 8 until the body section measures approximately 10 inches, ending on a wrong-side row.
Face and Neck Section (Black Yarn)
Switch to black yarn and work 6 rows in stockinette stitch followed by 8 rows in garter stitch for the face block.
Add ears using the same construction as the small version, scaling up to 12 stitches cast on for each ear.
Leg Section (Black Yarn)
Work the leg borders as described for the small pillow, adjusting proportions: work 8 stitches on each outer edge in black (legs), and the center 38 stitches in white. Work 10 rows total in this leg section, then finish with 6 rows of garter stitch in black for the hooves. Bind off.
Back Panel
Cast on 54 stitches. Work in 2×2 rib until back panel matches front panel height. Bind off in rib.
Finishing Your Bobble Sheep Pillow
Finishing is where your pillow truly comes to life. Take your time here because careful finishing makes the difference between a pillow that looks handmade and one that looks hand-crafted.
Begin by blocking both the front and back panels. Wet blocking works best for wool or wool blends. Gently soak your knitted panels in cool water for about 20 minutes, then squeeze out excess water without wringing. Lay flat on a blocking mat, pin to the correct dimensions, and allow to dry completely — usually 24 hours. Blocking will even out your bobbles and give your fabric a more polished finish.
Once blocked and dry, seam the back panel to the front panel on three sides using a mattress stitch or a whip stitch with your yarn needle. Mattress stitch creates the most invisible seam on the sides, while whip stitch along the outer edges gives a slightly decorative look.
Insert your pillow form through the open side. If the insert feels snug, that is ideal — a snug fit gives the pillow its shape and helps the bobbles stand out. Sew the final side closed.
If you made the optional ears separately, sew them onto either side of the face section now, using the yarn tail to secure them firmly. A couple of small embroidered eyes in black or white yarn will bring the sheep’s face to life. You can also embroider a small nose with a few horizontal stitches in pink or dark gray.
Customization Ideas
One of the best things about this pattern is how much room there is for personalization. Here are a few ways you can make your sheep pillow uniquely yours.
You could add a pop of color by knitting the back panel in a soft sage green, dusty blue, or warm terracotta to complement your room’s palette. The ribbed back in a contrasting color looks particularly striking.
For a farmhouse or rustic theme, try using a naturally undyed wool in its raw grey or brown form for the sheep body and a rust-colored yarn for the back panel. This earthy combination works beautifully in living rooms with wooden accents and woven textiles.
If you are knitting for a child, consider adding a little ribbon bow or a small felt flower near one of the ears. You could also embroider the child’s initial on the back panel before seaming.
For a holiday variation, swap the white yarn for a chunky red or green yarn and knit the sheep body in that color instead. A festive sheep pillow makes an unexpected and delightful seasonal decoration.
You can also experiment with bobble density. Working the bobble repeat every 2 stitches instead of every 4 creates an even denser, fluffier texture that is particularly lush on the large pillow.
Tips for Knitting Success
A few practical tips will help this project go smoothly from start to finish.
When working the bobble stitch, keep your tension slightly looser than usual on the rows where you work the bobbles. This makes it easier to work the multiple stitches into one and helps the bobbles sit neatly rather than puckering the fabric around them.
When switching between black and white yarn, always twist the yarns together at the join on the wrong side of the fabric to avoid gaps or holes. Weave in your ends as you go whenever possible — a pillow this size can accumulate a surprising number of yarn tails, and dealing with them at the end all at once can be tedious.
If you find that your bobbles are not as prominent as you would like, try poking each one gently from the back with a blunt pencil or the tip of your yarn needle after blocking. This helps them puff forward and stand out more clearly.
Keep a row counter handy throughout the body section. Because the bobble offset pattern repeats every 8 rows, it is easy to lose track of where you are, especially if you put the project down between sessions.
Caring for Your Finished Pillow
To keep your bobble sheep pillow looking its best, remove the pillow insert before washing. Hand wash the cover in cool water with a gentle wool wash detergent, gently squeezing rather than rubbing. Roll in a clean towel to remove excess water and lay flat to dry away from direct sunlight or heat sources.
If you used an acrylic yarn, you may be able to machine wash on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag. Always check your yarn label for specific care instructions.
Store the pillow away from direct sunlight when not in use to prevent the colors from fading over time, especially if you used naturally dyed wool.
Final Thoughts
This knit bobble sheep pillow pattern is the kind of project that becomes a joy to work from the very first bobble. It is tactile, fun, and produces something genuinely beautiful. Whether you are making the small version as a gift for a new parent or the large version to anchor a cozy reading corner, the finished pillow carries all the warmth and personality that only a handmade object can.
The combination of the bumpy, textured body and the clean black face and legs creates a design that is simple but immediately recognizable and endlessly loveable. It sits somewhere between folk art and contemporary home décor, which makes it versatile enough to feel at home in many different kinds of spaces.
Knit one, give one away, knit another — this pattern is the kind you will return to again and again, and each time it will be a pleasure to make.
Happy knitting!
