How to Make a Quick Herringbone Knitted Blanket

There is something deeply satisfying about knitting a blanket. It is one of those projects that begins with a simple skein of yarn and ends with something that will be draped over shoulders, tucked around toes, and carried from couch to couch for years. But blankets have a reputation for being slow, and that reputation is not entirely unearned. Most blanket patterns are large, repetitive, and can start to feel like a marathon somewhere around the third week of the same stockinette stitch. That is where the herringbone stitch changes everything.

The herringbone knit stitch is one of those techniques that feels like a secret once you learn it. It looks intricate, like something you might find on a tailored wool coat or an expensive heirloom throw, but it works up faster than you expect and creates a fabric with a satisfying density and drape. If you have been looking for a blanket pattern that feels genuinely rewarding to knit while also producing something beautiful enough to give as a gift or feature on your sofa, this is the project for you.

This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from choosing the right yarn and needles to casting on, working the herringbone stitch, and finishing your blanket cleanly. Whether you are an intermediate knitter looking for a new challenge or someone who has made a few scarves and wants to graduate to something bigger, you will find this project approachable and genuinely enjoyable.

What Is the Herringbone Stitch in Knitting?

Before we get into the pattern itself, it is worth understanding what makes the herringbone stitch special. The herringbone pattern gets its name from the skeleton of a herring fish, where the bones angle out symmetrically from a central spine. In fabric, this translates to a series of V-shaped chevrons that interlock and create a dense, diagonal texture across the surface.

In knitting, the herringbone stitch is achieved by knitting or purling two stitches together but slipping only the first stitch off the needle, then continuing across the row. This technique creates a twisted, interlocking fabric that is thicker than standard stockinette and has a lovely elasticity. The resulting texture is directional and dynamic, giving even a simple blanket a visual complexity that looks far more labor-intensive than it actually is.

One of the biggest advantages of the herringbone stitch for a blanket project is that the thicker, more tightly structured fabric means you will naturally reach your target dimensions faster than you might with a lighter stitch. The fabric builds up quickly on the needle, which is deeply motivating when you are working on a large project.

Materials You Will Need

Getting started with the right supplies makes a significant difference in how your blanket looks and how enjoyable it is to make. Here is what you will need for a standard throw-sized herringbone blanket measuring approximately 50 by 60 inches.

Yarn: Choose a bulky or super bulky weight yarn for the fastest results. Look for something in the weight category of 5 (bulky) or 6 (super bulky) on the yarn weight scale. A washable wool or wool blend is ideal because it has natural elasticity that works beautifully with the herringbone technique, and it can be thrown in the washing machine without too much anxiety. Acrylic blends are a practical choice if the blanket will be used by children or people with wool sensitivities. You will need approximately 800 to 1,200 yards depending on your yarn weight and your gauge. A super bulky yarn will require fewer yards and fewer hours; a bulky yarn will give you a slightly finer finished fabric.

Needles: For bulky yarn, US size 13 (9 mm) needles work well. For super bulky, go up to US size 15 (10 mm) or even US size 17 (12 mm). Circular needles are strongly recommended even if you are knitting flat, because the weight of a blanket in progress becomes substantial, and circular needles allow the work to rest in your lap rather than hanging from straight needles.

Notions: You will need a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers if you find them helpful, and a measuring tape. A row counter, either a physical one or an app on your phone, will help you keep track of your progress.

Gauge and Sizing

Gauge matters more for a blanket than you might think, not because a blanket needs to fit a body precisely, but because being off by even half a stitch per inch can change your finished dimensions by several inches across a large project.

Before you cast on your full blanket, knit a small gauge swatch of at least 4 by 4 inches in the herringbone stitch. Wash and block the swatch as you plan to care for the finished blanket, because yarn can shift significantly after washing. Measure your stitches per inch and your rows per inch, then adjust your cast-on number accordingly.

For a throw measuring roughly 50 by 60 inches using bulky weight yarn on US 13 needles, a typical gauge is around 9 to 10 stitches per 4 inches in the herringbone pattern. This would give you a cast-on of approximately 112 to 120 stitches. For a super bulky version, gauge might be closer to 7 to 8 stitches per 4 inches, bringing your cast-on to around 90 to 96 stitches.

Always adjust based on your own gauge rather than assuming your numbers will match exactly. Knitting tension is personal, and two knitters using the same yarn and needles can produce fabrics that differ by a full inch or more.

How to Work the Herringbone Stitch

The herringbone stitch is worked flat in this blanket, meaning you will knit back and forth in rows rather than in the round. The stitch pattern has two rows that repeat throughout the body of the blanket.

Row 1 (Right Side): Insert the right needle into the first two stitches on the left needle as if to knit them together. Knit them together, but do not drop both stitches off the left needle. Instead, slip only the first stitch off the left needle. One stitch remains on the left needle. Repeat this process across the row: always inserting your needle into the current stitch and the next stitch together, knitting them, and slipping only the first stitch off. When you reach the last stitch, knit it normally on its own. Turn your work.

Row 2 (Wrong Side): This row mirrors the right side but is worked in purl. Insert the right needle into the first two stitches purlwise and purl them together, slipping only the first stitch off the left needle. Repeat across the row. Purl the last stitch alone. Turn your work.

These two rows form the complete herringbone stitch repeat. You will work them alternately throughout the entire blanket. The pattern looks complicated written out, but after a few rows it becomes almost automatic, and the rhythm of the stitch is genuinely pleasant to work.

A helpful tip: keep your tension slightly looser than you might for other stitch patterns. The herringbone stitch naturally creates a denser fabric, and working too tightly can make it difficult to insert your needle into two stitches at once. If you find yourself struggling to get your needle in, try going up half a needle size or consciously relaxing your grip on the yarn.

Step-by-Step Blanket Instructions

Now that you understand the stitch, here is the full pattern from start to finish.

Step 1: Cast On

Using a long-tail cast-on or a stretchy cast-on method, cast on your required number of stitches. The herringbone stitch looks best with an even number of stitches. For a throw-sized blanket on bulky yarn with US 13 needles, cast on 112 stitches. Adjust this number based on your gauge swatch.

A long-tail cast-on is recommended because it creates a neat, slightly elastic edge that complements the body of the herringbone fabric. If you prefer a cable cast-on or a knitted cast-on, those will work as well, though the edge will have a slightly different character.

Step 2: Work the Border

Many knitters choose to begin a blanket with a few rows of a simple border stitch to create a clean, stable edge. Working 4 to 6 rows of garter stitch (knit every row) before beginning the herringbone pattern gives the blanket a tidy bottom edge that does not curl. Garter stitch is also used at the beginning and end of every row throughout the blanket, with 3 to 4 stitches of garter on each side acting as a selvedge. This means you will knit the first 3 and last 3 stitches of every row in garter stitch, regardless of whether the body of the row is worked on the right side or the wrong side.

Step 3: Begin the Herringbone Pattern

After your border rows, begin working the herringbone stitch in the body of the blanket. Remember to knit your 3 selvedge stitches at the beginning and end of each row before and after the herringbone section. Work Row 1 and Row 2 alternately, and continue until your blanket reaches approximately 2 inches less than your target length.

As you work, you will notice the fabric building up in a satisfying way. The diagonal texture of the herringbone creates a beautiful woven appearance on both the right side and the wrong side of the work, which means your blanket is reversible, a lovely bonus.

Step 4: Work the Top Border

Once you have reached your desired length, work 4 to 6 rows of garter stitch to mirror the bottom border. This creates a balanced, professional-looking finish.

Step 5: Bind Off

Bind off loosely in knit on the right side. A loose bind-off is important here because a tight edge can cause the top of the blanket to gather and pull. If you tend to bind off tightly, try using a needle one or two sizes larger for the bind-off row only. An elastic bind-off method such as the Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off is also a good option.

Step 6: Weave in Ends and Block

Using a tapestry needle, weave in all your yarn ends securely. Then block your blanket by soaking it in cool water, pressing out the excess water (do not wring), and laying it flat to dry. Blocking evens out the stitches, opens up the herringbone texture, and helps the blanket reach its full dimensions. It also helps the finished fabric relax and soften, making it noticeably cozier.

Tips for Making Your Herringbone Blanket Faster

The beauty of this pattern is that it already works up quickly compared to many blanket stitches, but there are a few ways to make the process feel even more efficient.

Work in sessions with intention. Rather than knitting a few stitches here and there throughout the day, try setting aside dedicated knitting time of 30 to 45 minutes where you can focus. You will make more visible progress per session, which keeps motivation high.

Use yarn from the same dye lot. When you purchase your yarn, buy all the skeins at once from the same lot number. Dye lots can vary subtly, and on a large project like a blanket, a shift in color from one skein to the next will be noticeable. Join new skeins at the beginning of a row rather than in the middle to make the transition as clean as possible.

Choose a yarn you love to touch. This sounds obvious, but it matters more than you might expect on a long project. If your yarn is scratchy, stiff, or unpleasant to work with, every session will feel like a chore. Choose something soft and enjoyable, and the hours of knitting will feel like relaxation rather than work.

Yarn Recommendations for a Herringbone Blanket

There are many wonderful yarns on the market that are well-suited to this project. For a super bulky option, look for yarns like Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Quick, Cascade Magnum, or Paintbox Simply Super Chunky. These yarns are widely available, affordable, and come in a generous range of colors.

For a bulky option with a more luxurious feel, Malabrigo Chunky, Quince and Co. Puffin, or Brooklyn Tweed Quarry are excellent choices. They tend to have a beautiful halo and depth of color that showcases the herringbone texture particularly well.

If you are knitting on a budget, there are many acrylic bulky yarns that work beautifully for this pattern. Red Heart With Love Chunky and Caron Simply Soft Party are two examples that are easy to care for and available at most craft stores.

Color Ideas and Design Variations

The herringbone stitch is stunning in a single solid color, where the texture does all the work and the blanket has an elegant, understated look. But it also lends itself beautifully to stripes. Because the herringbone pattern is worked in two-row repeats, you can switch colors every two rows to create a striped herringbone effect with a wonderfully woven appearance.

Two-color blankets in contrasting tones like cream and charcoal, dusty blue and warm tan, or forest green and cream are particularly striking. You can also work a gradient by transitioning through several related shades, moving from a deep teal through medium blue to a soft sky, for example, for a blanket that seems to shift in the light.

For a bolder look, try a wide stripe pattern where you alternate between two colors every 10 to 20 rows. The herringbone texture will carry through both colors and unify the blanket beautifully.

Caring for Your Finished Blanket

Once your blanket is finished, caring for it properly will keep it looking beautiful for many years. Always check the care instructions on your yarn label, as these will give you the most accurate guidance for your specific fiber content.

Most wool and wool blend blankets can be hand washed in cool water with a gentle wool wash and laid flat to dry. Avoid putting wool in the dryer, as heat and agitation can cause it to felt irreversibly. Acrylic blankets are generally machine washable and can often go in a low-heat dryer, making them an ideal choice for everyday use or for gifts going to families with young children.

Store your finished blanket folded rather than rolled, away from direct sunlight, which can fade colors over time. Cedar blocks or lavender sachets can be placed nearby to discourage moths if the blanket contains natural fibers.

Final Thoughts

A herringbone knitted blanket is one of those projects that rewards you on multiple levels. It teaches you a new technique that you will reach for again and again in future projects. It produces a fabric that is genuinely impressive in its appearance and texture. And it results in something functional, beautiful, and lasting, the kind of object that gets handed down and treasured.

If you have been on the fence about tackling a knitted blanket, this is the pattern to start with. The herringbone stitch is forgiving enough for intermediate knitters, engaging enough to keep your attention through a long project, and satisfying enough that you will likely have a second blanket on your needles before you have even finished weaving in the ends on the first.

Grab your yarn, find a comfortable spot, and cast on. Your quick herringbone blanket is waiting.