
Page 2 of the Ember Leaf Shawl pattern
Knits by Sachititle
Welcome back to the second installment of the Ember Leaf Shawl pattern. If you’re joining us here, you’ve already seen Page 1, where the foundation of the shawl takes shape with a simple garter border and the first touches of the leaf lace motif. Page 2 picks up right where that left off, expanding the motif across the body of the shawl, adding fullness, and guiding you toward a finished, drapey piece you’ll be proud to wear or gift. In this post you’ll find deeper pattern notes, practical tips for working the second page, advice on yarn substitutions, gauge considerations, and a complete, easy-to-follow plan for completing the shawl with confidence.
If you came here looking for a quick recipe to copy paste into your knitting notebook, you’ll still find that clarity in these pages. But what makes a Page 2 post truly useful for gardeners of yarn and fabric alike is the blend of technique, theory, and practical how-to that lets you make the design your own while staying true to the designer’s intention. The Ember Leaf Shawl is designed to be forgiving to various yarns and tensions, as long as you respect the gauge guidelines and maintain a consistent tension. Page 2 takes you through the heart of the pattern—where the leaves weave their rhythmic dance along the shawl, and where the edging begins to emerge in earnest.
Pattern idea and design notes
The Ember Leaf Shawl is inspired by late-summer forests where sun and shadow play across a tapestry of leaves. The pattern combines a sturdy garter stitch base with an openwork leaf lace motif that travels along the length of the shawl. This pairing creates a fabric that is warm without being heavy, with an airy lace that catches the breeze when you wear it draped over your shoulders.
On Page 1, you established the garter border and the initial sections of the leaf motif. Page 2 is where the motif grows, where the lace pattern becomes more pronounced, and where the shaping for a natural, wrap-able drape starts to take form. You’ll notice a consistent rhythm in Page 2: rows built to form leaf shapes, rows that “rest” the eye with purling or simple stitches, and rows that push the edge toward a poised, finished look.
Materials and tools recap
While Page 2 dives into the heart of the pattern, having the right materials on hand is still essential to a smooth knitting experience. Here’s a concise recap to keep you in the groove as you begin Page 2.
– Yarn: A light-to-medium weight yarn works beautifully for this shawl. The sample uses a soft worsted-to-light-worsted weight in a colorway that reads as a forest floor shade—think olive, moss, or a muted teal. If you’re substituting yarns, aim for a yarn with good drape and a slight elasticity so the lace opens up without becoming too brittle. Approximately 900–1200 yards is a reasonable range for a standard rectangular shawl of this size; exact yardage depends on your chosen gauge and the finished dimensions you aim for.
– Needles: A circular needle is preferred for comfort and reach, especially in a shawl pattern. A typical choice is US size 6 or 7 (4.0–4.5 mm), with a cable length of 24 to 40 inches to accommodate your work as it grows.
– Notions: Stitch markers, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, a row counter if you like to track the pattern easily, and a soft tape measure for final blocking assessment.
– Notions for blocking: A ways to pin the shawl as it dries—blocking mats or a clean cloth on a flat surface works well. Blocking is essential to open up the lace motif and achieve the drape that makes the Ember Leaf Shawl sing.
Gauge and size considerations
Gauge is the compass that keeps your pattern consistent across different yarns and needle choices. The aim is to knit at a gauge where the leaf motifs retain their shape without becoming too dense or too open. The recommended gauge for this project is approximately 18 stitches by 28 rows for a 4-inch square in the main fabric (garter stitch base). Of course, your gauge will vary with your yarn and needles; the most important thing is to remain consistent within your finished piece.
As for sizing, the Ember Leaf Shawl is designed to be a generously sized wrap, flexible and flattering on many body types and wearing preferences. Page 2 handles the middle and upper portions of the shawl, where the width remains wide enough to drape gracefully while the length grows as you continue working. If you’d like a shorter or longer shawl, adjust your cast-on count in Page 1 and re-check the number of pattern repeats per row in Page 2. In general, a slightly longer version is achieved by adding more leaf-motif repeats along the length before you begin final edging or bind-off.
Pattern notes and technique reminders
– Working in the round vs. flat: This shawl is typically worked flat and later blocked to shape. Page 2 continues in the flat-knitting mode, with occasional edges turned and readied for edge finishing. If you prefer to work in the round, you can adapt by knitting two of the same halves and grafting later, but that’s an advanced option and not necessary for the standard version.
– Leaf motif repetition: The leaf motif is designed on a multiple of 12 stitches (or another defined multiple depending on your width). Keeping a reliable stitch count is crucial to maintaining the symmetry of the leaves along the shawl. If your width differs from the designer’s, you’ll want to recalculate the number of motif repeats so that you still end up with a balanced look at the top edge.
– Edge treatment: The garter border remains a consistent, sturdy frame for the lace. The edge stitches are there to anchor the lace motif and prevent curling as the shawl grows. When you reach the top edge, you will add the final finishing rows as described toward the end of the page.
Reading order and what to expect on Page 2
Page 2 is the meat of the shawl pattern—the part where the leaf motif expands and the edge takes on a defined, elegant shape. The page is structured to keep your workflow smooth: it begins with a quick checklist of the sections you’ll tackle, followed by the actual instructions for the center and side sections, and then the long, satisfying edging sequences. You’ll see a blend of written instructions and pattern notes. If you’re a visual person, you’ll still appreciate the level of detail because it translates well into your notes in a knitting notebook or a pattern journal.
Important: If you are following a PDF copy of the pattern, Page 2 will continue directly from Page 1, so keep your place in your document. If you’re reading this as a blog post, feel free to take notes and jot down your questions to revisit in your next session. The aim is to help you finish with a scarf or shawl you love wearing.
Working the center motif on Page 2
The center motif is where the magic happens. It’s where the leaves begin to appear more clearly and where the fabric gains its distinctive lacey texture. The technique largely centers on a careful balance of increases and decreases that shape the stitch pattern into leaf-like forms.
– Setup: You’ll begin this section after completing the initial garter border and the first portion of the leaf motif from Page 1. Ensure you have an accurate stitch count before you proceed. A row counter or a quick tick on your notes helps you stay aligned with the motif’s rhythm.
– Pattern repeat: The center motif repeats in a defined sequence over a set number of stitches. Maintaining a consistent repeat helps the leaves appear evenly along the shawl’s length.
– Tension and consistency: Lace sections are more forgiving than tight ribbing or stockinette, but you still want to be consistent in your tension to prevent the leaves from looking uneven. If your gauge is looser, consider going up a needle size slightly; if your gauge is tighter, you may be comfortable keeping the same size or moving down a half size to preserve the lace’s openness.
Written walkthrough example (high-level)
Here is a high-level illustration of how the center motif progresses on Page 2. This is intended to guide your understanding rather than replace the actual row-by-row instructions you’ll find in the pattern notes. For precise row numbers and exact stitch counts, refer to your Page 2 text in the original pattern:
– RS rows: You work a sequence of stitches that forms a leaf shape as you progress across the center, followed by a short stretch of garter or purl rows to anchor the motif before the next leaf forms.
– WS rows: These rows provide the “breathing room” and maintain the fabric’s structure, often containing just a purl sequence with occasional slip stitches to keep edges stable.
– Increases and decreases: The leaf shapes are achieved through carefully placed increases (often yarn overs or M1s) and decreases (like SSK or K2tog). The balance between increases and decreases creates the curved, natural silhouette of a leaf rather than a rigid, geometric shape.
– Color and texture: If you’re using a lightly variegated or subtly shaded yarn, the lace will catch the light differently across sections, which can enhance the leaf shapes. If you’re using a solid color, the texture itself becomes the focal point, so remember to block well to maximize the pattern’s visibility.
Edge refinement and finishing on Page 2
After you’ve established the center motif, you’ll move toward a more finished, journalist-style edge. The edging typically includes longer rows that emphasize the shawl’s width and a final row that anchors all stitches before you cast off. The finishing sequence is designed to avoid curling and to provide a smooth drape.
– Blocking preparation: Soak the shawl gently in lukewarm water with a mild wool wash. Do not agitate aggressively. Gently roll in a towel to remove excess water, then lay flat on blocking mats or a clean surface to air-dry.
– Pinning strategy: When pinning, aim to spread the lace to open the motifs without overstretching the fabric. For broader shawls like Ember Leaf, pin a loose rectangle shape to guide the top edge and ensure symmetry from one end to the other.
– Final wash and set: After blocking, you may give a light steam (from a distance) to settle the fibers if needed. Avoid direct heat or pressing with a hot iron, which can flatten the lace and ruin the drape.
– Care instructions for the finished piece: Hand wash in cool water, lay flat to dry, and store flat when possible. If you’re using a natural fiber, a light misting with a textile-safe spray can rejuvenate the lace’s crispness after wear.
Gauge, substitutions, and tips for success
– Substituting yarns: If your yarn is bulkier or thinner than the sample, expect changes in drape and width. You may need to adjust the number of pattern repeats across your shawl to maintain the intended look. For a drapier result with a lighter yarn, you might opt for a larger needle size, which helps the lace breathe. For a warmer, more substantial finish, a slightly heavier yarn with a complementary needle size can work well.
– Needle considerations: The exact needle size isn’t universal across all yarns. A good approach is to knit a swatch that mirrors your Page 2 section and measure its gauge. If your swatch gauge matches the target, you’re on track. If not, adapt by choosing a new needle size and knitting another swatch. The goal is to achieve the pattern’s open lace without it becoming too loose or too tight.
– Blocking and fiber content: Wool blends generally block very well and hold lace structure nicely. If you’re using a superfine merino or a silk blend, you might find the lace opens up even more after blocking, which can be delightful for the shawl’s finished look. Cotton-based yarns tend to need a bit more careful blocking to prevent the lace from feeling stiff.
Color ideas and styling tips
– Monochrome elegance: A single, deep shade gives the lace pattern a classic, refined look. The leaf motifs become the focal point when the color remains consistent across the shawl.
– Subtle tonal range: A yarn with a gentle color progression or a subtly variegated yarn can add depth without distracting from the leaf motif. Keep the range balanced so the lace remains clearly visible.
– Contrasting border options: If you’re feeling bold, consider a two-tone approach where the leaf panel is in one color and the borders or edging are in a complementary shade. This can highlight the lace shapes and provide a modern twist to a traditional pattern.
– Styling: Drape the scarf over the shoulders to show off the openwork. The textural warmth works beautifully with a light coat or a simple top. When you wear it, allow the points of the leaves to align toward the front or side; the shawl’s geometry will create pleasing lines along the neck and collarbone.
Pattern maintenance and sharing
– Pattern usage: This Ember Leaf Shawl pattern is shared with the knitting community for personal use. If you wish to feature the pattern on your blog, social media, or pattern roundups, please credit Knits by Sachititle and link back to the original pattern page. If you’re sharing files or PDFs, ensure you have the rights to do so and that you maintain the integrity of the design.
– Printing hints: For readers who want to print Page 2 for offline use, consider a printer-friendly version that reduces clutter and preserves the essential steps. A clean, simple layout improves readability and can support beginners who prefer a hard-copy reference while knitting.
Troubleshooting common issues on Page 2
– Issue: Lace looks too dense, and leaves aren’t clearly defined.
What to do: Check tension and ensure you’re not over-twisting stitches when you execute increases and decreases. Try a slightly looser approach around the leaf sections, or block more aggressively to open up the lace.
– Issue: Edge curling.
What to do: Revisit your garter border; make sure you’re maintaining a consistent stitch count on the border and across the center motif. Blocking can dramatically reduce curling, and a gentle steam can help set the edge in the desired direction.
– Issue: Uneven leaves or irregular spacing of motifs.
What to do: Recount your stitches regularly, especially after completing a repeated section. It’s easy to drift by one stitch or two and throw off alignment. The best fix is to be methodical with stitch counts and use markers to delineate motif repeats.
How Page 2 integrates with the larger pattern journey
Page 2 is not the end—it is a bridge between the foundational structure laid in Page 1 and the final flourish that comes with the edging and finishing. It’s where your fabric transitions from a simple, sturdy fabric into something with lyrical, nature-inspired grace. The journey from the garter border into the leafy openwork is where you see the shawl begin to take its identity. This approach—start with a strong border, then let the motif bloom, followed by a refined top edge—gives you a piece that’s both reliable in construction and expressive in texture.
If you’ve made it this far in the Ember Leaf Shawl pattern, you’re ready to bring Page 2 to life. Take your time with the center motif and savor the rhythm of the stitches as they transform into leaf shapes. Remember, this is a design that rewards patience and care. The effort pays off as you reach the top edge and begin to see the shawl’s true silhouette emerge.
Planning ahead: what to do next
– If you’re following Page 2 exactly, take stock of your progress after completing a full repeat of the center motif along the shawl. Ensure your stitch counts align and your gauge is consistent. Then move on to the edging sequence, which is typically a set of targeted rows designed to anchor the top edge while preserving the lace’s lightness.
– If you’re new to lace knitting, consider practicing the leaf pattern on a smaller swatch first. It gives you confidence with increases, decreases, and yarn overs without committing to the entire shawl right away.
– If you’re experienced, you can tailor Page 2’s motif density by adjusting the number of repeats. The key is to maintain symmetry and avoid ending a row with an uneven stitch count that would throw off the edge.
Final notes and encouragement
The Ember Leaf Shawl is a labor of love that rewards careful attention, consistent tension, and patience. Page 2 is where the pattern’s heart truly beats—where the eye is drawn to the elegant leaf shapes and the fabric’s natural drape begins to form. It’s normal for lace to feel fragile at times, especially when you’re working on the central motif. If you find that the lace isn’t too open or too tight, revisit your blocking plan and adjust as needed. Remember: a well-blocked lace project will reveal its structure and its beauty more clearly.
If you’re sharing your progress on social media or in a knitting community, consider posting photos at different stages: after finishing Page 2’s central motif, after the edging is completed, and after the final blocking. Not only will you receive encouragement, but you also provide inspiration to others tackling the same pattern.
Thank you for joining me on Page 2 of the Ember Leaf Shawl pattern by Knits by Sachititle. I hope this post helps you approach the second page with confidence, curiosity, and the joy of knitting something that’s both technically satisfying and aesthetically rewarding. If you enjoy this pattern, stay tuned for Page 3, where we wrap up with final tips, a few alternative edging options, and a quick guide to choosing the perfect gift-ready shawl version for the upcoming season.
Would you like this post to be easier to print or save as a PDF for your notes? Tell me your preferred format, and I’ll tailor a reader-friendly version you can keep in front of you as you knit. And as always, happy knitting, and may your leaves stay crisp and your yarn stay soft on your fingertips.