Honeycomb Cable Knitting Patterns: Bracelet, Headband, and Ear Warmer
There is something deeply satisfying about the honeycomb cable stitch. It looks impossibly intricate at first glance — a series of interlocking diamonds and crossing stitches that seem to require years of practice to master. In reality, honeycomb cables are one of the friendlier cable patterns for knitters who are ready to move beyond ribbing and stockinette. Once you understand the basic mechanics of holding stitches to the front or back with a cable needle, the rhythm of the honeycomb repeat becomes almost meditative.
This guide covers three projects that make great use of the honeycomb cable pattern: a bracelet, a headband, and an ear warmer. Each project uses the same foundational stitch but scales up in size and complexity, which makes this collection ideal whether you are brand new to cabling or looking for a satisfying afternoon project that lets you practice the technique across different applications. All three items make wonderful handmade gifts, and none of them require a large investment of yarn or time.
Before jumping into the patterns, let’s take a careful look at the honeycomb stitch itself, the materials you will need, and the abbreviations used throughout.
Understanding the Honeycomb Cable Stitch
The honeycomb cable gets its name from the visual texture it creates: a dense, raised pattern of interlocking oval shapes that resembles the cells of a beehive. Unlike traveling cables that move diagonally across the fabric, the honeycomb stitch creates a grid-like pattern where cables cross in alternating directions across every right-side row (or every other row, depending on the variation).
The stitch is worked on a multiple of four stitches and relies on two cable crossings: a back cross (abbreviated as C4B or 4-stitch cable back) and a front cross (C4F or 4-stitch cable front). The back cross leans to the right, and the front cross leans to the left. By alternating these two crossings in a specific arrangement across two cable rows, you create the enclosed oval cells that define the honeycomb look.
Here is the core logic of the honeycomb repeat on a panel of 8 stitches:
On the first cable row, you work C4B over the first four stitches and C4F over the next four stitches. On the second cable row (worked a few plain rows later), you shift by two stitches and work C4F over stitches 3 through 6, while the outer stitches travel in opposite directions. This offset creates the interlocked effect. If it sounds confusing on paper, it makes much more sense once you have your yarn on the needles and can see the cells forming row by row.
Materials and Tools
For all three projects in this guide, you will want a smooth, plied yarn that shows stitch definition clearly. Cables can get lost in fuzzy or overly textured yarns, so stick with something with good twist and a clean surface. A wool or wool-blend yarn in a worsted weight is ideal for the headband and ear warmer. For the bracelet, you can use sport or DK weight for a more delicate look.
Yarn: 100% wool or wool-acrylic blend, worsted weight for the headband and ear warmer, DK or sport weight for the bracelet. Exact yardage is listed with each pattern.
Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) for worsted projects, US size 5 (3.75mm) for the bracelet. Straight needles work fine for all three since none of them are worked in the round.
Cable needle: Any style works. Some knitters prefer a bent cable needle that holds stitches securely; others use a short straight needle or even a toothpick for smaller stitch counts.
Additional tools: Tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers if helpful, and a button or snap closure for the bracelet.
Abbreviations
CO — cast on
BO — bind off
K — knit
P — purl
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
CN — cable needle
C4B — slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold to back, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
C4F — slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold to front, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
Rep — repeat
St(s) — stitch(es)
PM — place marker
Project One: Honeycomb Cable Bracelet
This bracelet is a perfect first cable project. It uses a narrow panel of just 8 stitches with seed stitch borders on either side, keeping the total width manageable while giving you a clear, focused canvas for the honeycomb repeat. Finished, it wraps around the wrist and fastens with a small button, making it both practical and polished.
Finished measurements: Approximately 1.5 inches wide and 7 inches long (adjustable)
Yarn: Approximately 30–40 yards of DK weight yarn
Needles: US size 5 (3.75mm)
Gauge: 22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette (gauge is not critical for this project)
Notions: Cable needle, one small button (approximately 3/4 inch), tapestry needle
Bracelet Pattern
CO 16 stitches.
Setup Row (WS): (K1, P1) twice, P8, (K1, P1) twice.
This establishes 4 seed stitch border stitches on each side framing the 8-stitch honeycomb cable panel in the center.
Row 1 (RS): (K1, P1) twice, C4B, C4F, (P1, K1) twice.
Row 2 (WS): (K1, P1) twice, P8, (K1, P1) twice.
Row 3 (RS): (K1, P1) twice, K8, (P1, K1) twice.
Row 4 (WS): (K1, P1) twice, P8, (K1, P1) twice.
Row 5 (RS): (K1, P1) twice, K2, C4F, K2, (P1, K1) twice.
Row 6 (WS): (K1, P1) twice, P8, (K1, P1) twice.
Row 7 (RS): (K1, P1) twice, K8, (P1, K1) twice.
Row 8 (WS): (K1, P1) twice, P8, (K1, P1) twice.
These 8 rows form the honeycomb cable repeat for the bracelet. Repeat rows 1–8 until the piece measures approximately 6.5 inches from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
Buttonhole Row (RS): Work in seed stitch across all 16 stitches as established for 3 rows.
On the last seed stitch row, work a buttonhole by binding off 2 stitches in the center of the panel and casting them back on in the following row.
Bind off all stitches in pattern.
Weave in ends. Sew button onto the opposite end, centered on the cable panel. Block lightly if desired by spritzing with water and patting flat.
Notes on the Bracelet
The beauty of this bracelet is that you can customize the length easily. Measure your wrist and add about half an inch of ease, then knit until the piece (minus the button placement) reaches that measurement. If you want a wider bracelet, you can add a second 8-stitch cable panel in the center by casting on 24 stitches instead of 16 and working C4B, C4F, C4B, C4F across the cable section on row 1.
Color is another place to have fun with this small project. A single skein of variegated or semi-solid yarn in a deep jewel tone makes the cable texture especially striking. Navy, forest green, burgundy, and mustard all photograph beautifully and tend to be popular in handmade jewelry and accessory markets if you plan to sell your work.
Project Two: Honeycomb Cable Headband
The headband is a step up in scale from the bracelet but still a relatively quick knit. It uses a wider cable panel flanked by ribbing to help the band grip the head comfortably without slipping. This pattern is worked flat and seamed at the back, which keeps the construction simple.
Finished measurements: Approximately 4 inches wide and 19–21 inches circumference (adjustable)
Yarn: Approximately 75–100 yards of worsted weight yarn
Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm)
Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette. The honeycomb cable will pull in slightly, so swatch if fit is important to you.
Notions: Cable needle, tapestry needle, stitch markers
Headband Pattern
CO 30 stitches.
Setup Row (WS): P2, K2, P2, K2, P16, K2, P2, K2, P2.
This sets up 2 knit-purl ribs on each side (8 stitches total on each edge) framing a 16-stitch honeycomb panel in the center.
Headband Cable Repeat:
Row 1 (RS): K2, P2, K2, P2, C4B, C4B, C4F, C4F, P2, K2, P2, K2.
Wait — let’s simplify this. With 16 stitches in the cable panel, your row 1 works as follows across the center 16 stitches: C4B, C4B, C4F, C4F (working each cable crossing over 4 stitches for a total of four cable crossings across the panel).
Row 2 (WS): K2, P2, K2, P2, P16, P2, K2, P2, K2. (Purl all cable panel stitches on WS.)
Rows 3–4: Work the border in established rib, knit all cable panel stitches on RS, purl all on WS.
Row 5 (RS): K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, C4F, C4B, C4F, C4B, K2, P2, K2, P2.
On this row you shift the crossings by working 2 plain knit stitches at each end of the cable panel before beginning the crossings, and the cross directions alternate compared to row 1. This creates the second half of the honeycomb cell.
Row 6 (WS): As row 2.
Rows 7–8: As rows 3–4.
Rows 1–8 form the headband repeat.
Work the repeat until the headband measures approximately 18–20 inches from the cast-on edge (measure to fit the intended wearer’s head, aiming for a circumference about 1–2 inches smaller than the head measurement for a snug, comfortable fit).
Bind off all stitches loosely in pattern.
Seam the two short ends together using mattress stitch or whip stitch. If you prefer a seamless look, you can use Kitchener stitch on live stitches instead of binding off and then seaming.
Weave in ends and block gently.
Notes on the Headband
The headband works up quickly — most knitters complete it in two to four hours. Because it is worked flat, you can easily try it on or measure as you go, which makes fitting a breeze. If you are making this for a child, reduce the cast-on to 24 stitches and adjust the cable panel to 12 stitches (working C4B, C4F across the panel on row 1, and shifting accordingly on row 5).
For a more polished look, add a simple knot or pleat at the center back seam. After seaming, thread a short length of the same yarn around the gathered seam and tie it off on the inside. This creates the classic knotted headband silhouette that has been popular in handmade accessories for years.
The headband also provides a wonderful opportunity to practice consistent tension on cable crossings, since a longer piece makes any inconsistencies easier to spot and correct as you go.
Project Three: Honeycomb Cable Ear Warmer
The ear warmer is the most practical of the three projects and one of the most satisfying to knit. Slightly wider and sturdier than the headband, it is designed to cover the ears fully and stay in place during outdoor activities. This pattern uses a full honeycomb cable panel across the entire width of the band, so there is no ribbing border — just pure textured cable from edge to edge.
Finished measurements: Approximately 5 inches wide and 20–22 inches circumference (adjustable)
Yarn: Approximately 100–130 yards of worsted weight yarn
Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm)
Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette
Notions: Cable needle, tapestry needle
Ear Warmer Pattern
CO 24 stitches.
Setup Row (WS): P24.
Since the honeycomb panel runs the full width of the ear warmer, all wrong-side rows are purled across.
Row 1 (RS): C4B, C4B, C4F, C4F, C4B, C4F.
Wait — let me lay this out clearly. With 24 stitches divided into six 4-stitch cable groups, row 1 works as follows: C4B over stitches 1–4, C4B over stitches 5–8, C4F over stitches 9–12, C4F over stitches 13–16, C4B over stitches 17–20, C4F over stitches 21–24.
Row 2 (WS): P24.
Rows 3–4: K24 on RS, P24 on WS.
Row 5 (RS): K2, C4F, C4B, C4F, C4B, C4F, K2.
On row 5, work 2 plain knit stitches at each edge, then work the interior 20 stitches as follows: C4F, C4B, C4F, C4B, C4F — five cable crossings across the shifted panel.
Row 6 (WS): P24.
Rows 7–8: K24 on RS, P24 on WS.
Rows 1–8 form the ear warmer cable repeat.
Continue working the repeat until the piece measures approximately 19–21 inches from cast-on, ending after a WS row. As with the headband, aim for a circumference roughly 1–2 inches smaller than the wearer’s head measurement.
Bind off all stitches.
Seam the two short ends together. Block by wet blocking or steam blocking to even out the cable texture and open up the cells.
Notes on the Ear Warmer
The ear warmer benefits enormously from wet blocking. Before seaming, soak the finished piece in cool water, press out the excess moisture in a towel, and pin it flat to your blocking mats at the desired dimensions. Once dry, the honeycomb cells will open up beautifully and the fabric will have a professional, polished drape.
For a practical upgrade, you can add a button and loop closure instead of seaming the ends. This makes the ear warmer adjustable and easier to put on without disturbing a hairstyle — a feature that is particularly appreciated as a gift.
You can also experiment with yarn weight here. A chunky yarn on US size 10 needles will produce a cozy, oversized ear warmer in under an hour. A DK weight on US size 6 needles will result in a more refined, lightweight band. The pattern scales to any weight; just be sure your 24-stitch cast-on gives you the width you need before beginning, and swatch or measure accordingly.
Tips for Working Honeycomb Cables Successfully
A few practical notes that apply to all three projects will save you troubleshooting time and help your finished pieces look their best.
Keep your cable crossings consistent. The most common issue
