Extra Pocket Knitting Patterns: Your Complete Guide to Adding Functional Style to Every Project
There is something deeply satisfying about a knitted garment that does more than just look beautiful. Pockets transform a sweater from a pretty piece of knitwear into something you actually reach for on busy mornings, something that holds your phone during a walk or keeps your hands warm on a cold afternoon. And yet, patterns with built-in pockets are surprisingly rare, leaving many knitters wondering how to add that extra pocket to a finished or in-progress piece. Whether you are a beginner working through your first sweater or an experienced knitter looking to expand your skills, this guide walks you through everything you need to know about extra pocket knitting patterns — how to find them, how to knit them, and how to add them to almost any project you love.
Why Pockets Matter in Knitwear
Before diving into the techniques and patterns themselves, it is worth pausing on why pockets are such a beloved feature in handknits. Commercially made clothing, especially women’s clothing, has long been criticized for inadequate or nonexistent pockets. Handknitting gives you the power to change that entirely. You decide where the pockets go, how deep they are, how wide, and what style suits the garment best.
Beyond function, pockets are also a wonderful design element. A contrasting-color patch pocket on a plain cardigan adds visual interest without requiring a complicated stitch pattern. A kangaroo pocket across the front of a pullover creates a cozy, casual aesthetic. Side seam pockets in a dress give a polished, tailored look that feels almost architectural. The point is that pockets do double duty in knitwear — they make a garment more useful and more interesting at the same time.
Understanding the Different Types of Knitted Pockets
Not all pockets are created equal, and knowing which type suits your project is the first step toward successfully adding one. Each style has a different construction method, a different aesthetic, and a slightly different skill requirement.
Patch Pockets
Patch pockets are the most straightforward option for knitters of all levels. You knit a separate rectangle or shaped piece, then seam or pick up and attach it to the surface of the finished fabric. Because they sit on top of the garment rather than being integrated into it, they are easy to add after the fact — making them ideal for projects that are already finished or nearly finished. The downside is that they add a layer of thickness to the fabric, which can look bulky on fine yarns. On chunkier textures or rustic wools, however, patch pockets look entirely at home and have a wonderfully handmade character.
Side Seam Pockets
These are knitted as part of the garment’s construction, inserted at the side seam during assembly. You work pocket linings separately while knitting the front and back panels, then join them when you sew or graft the sides together. Side seam pockets are nearly invisible from the outside, sitting flush with the garment’s surface and creating a clean, streamlined line. They work particularly well in cardigans, dresses, skirts, and long pullovers. The construction requires a bit of planning ahead, but the result is polished enough to rival a professionally made garment.
Inset or Set-In Pockets
Sometimes called integrated pockets or horizontal pockets, these are worked directly into the fabric of the garment as you knit. You work up to the desired pocket opening, place the live stitches on a holder, pick up a separately-knitted pocket lining, and continue working across. When the garment is complete, you finish the opening with a small band or hem and seam the lining to the inside. These pockets require the most planning and confidence, but they are extraordinarily satisfying to execute. The pocket mouth is integrated seamlessly into the fabric, with no visible join or disruption to the knitting.
Kangaroo or Pouch Pockets
These are a single large pocket that spans the front of a garment, most commonly seen on hoodies and casual pullovers. They are typically worked as a separate flat piece seamed on three sides to the front of the garment, leaving the top open and creating a roomy double-layered pouch. Kangaroo pockets are an excellent choice for children’s knitwear, casual adult loungewear, and any project where a relaxed, sporty feel is desired.
Welt Pockets
These are the tailored cousins of the inset pocket. A welt pocket features a neat, folded flap of fabric at the opening — similar to what you see on the chest pocket of a suit jacket. They require precise gauge and careful finishing but produce a result that looks truly refined. Welt pockets appear most often in advanced patterns designed for structured garments like blazer-style cardigans or double-knit jackets.
How to Add a Patch Pocket to Any Knitting Pattern
Because patch pockets are the most universally applicable, it is worth walking through the process in detail. You can add one to almost any project regardless of the stitch pattern used for the body of the garment.
Start by deciding on the placement and size of your pocket. For a cardigan or sweater, a good starting point is a pocket roughly 5 to 6 inches wide and 5 to 6 inches tall, positioned so that the top of the pocket sits just below the bust line or at a natural hand-resting position. You can adjust these dimensions freely based on your preferences and the scale of the garment.
Cast on the number of stitches that gives you your desired width at your gauge. If your gauge is 20 stitches per 4 inches and you want a 6-inch pocket, you will need approximately 30 stitches. Work in your chosen stitch — stockinette is classic, but seed stitch, ribbing, or a small textured pattern all work beautifully — until the pocket reaches your desired depth. You may want to add a small border or edging at the top to prevent the pocket mouth from curling. A few rows of seed stitch, a short ribbed band, or even a simple garter stitch hem all accomplish this well.
Once your pocket piece is complete and blocked, pin it to the garment in your chosen position. Use a ruler or measuring tape to ensure it is straight and evenly placed. Then seam it to the garment using mattress stitch or whip stitch, working along the sides and bottom of the pocket only, leaving the top open.
The key to a clean patch pocket is careful blocking and seaming. Block the pocket piece before attaching it so that it lies flat. When seaming, try to catch the same row or stitch consistently on both the pocket and the garment to keep your line straight and even. Taking an extra few minutes here makes the difference between a pocket that looks like an afterthought and one that looks intentional and well-crafted.
Adding a Side Seam Pocket to an Existing Pattern
Adding a side seam pocket to a pattern that does not call for one requires a little arithmetic but is well within reach for intermediate knitters. The basic approach is to knit separate pocket linings that will be sandwiched into the side seam during finishing.
For each pocket, cast on enough stitches to create a lining that is roughly 5 to 6 inches wide and 7 to 8 inches tall. Work these in stockinette — since they will be hidden inside the garment, stitch pattern does not matter here. Block the linings lightly so they lie flat.
When you are assembling the garment, instead of seaming the sides straight from hem to underarm, you leave a gap at the pocket position. Position the linings so that they open toward the front of the garment, with the cast-on edges aligned with the bottom of the pocket opening. Seam the lining edges to both the front and back panels, and then continue seaming the side of the garment above and below the pocket opening as normal. The lining creates a bag inside the garment, and the gap in the side seam is your pocket mouth.
To finish the opening neatly, you can pick up stitches around the pocket mouth and work a few rows of ribbing or seed stitch as a facing, then graft or seam this facing to the inside of the garment. This step is optional but adds a tidy, professional finish that prevents the pocket mouth from stretching out over time.
Working an Integrated Inset Pocket
If you are starting a new project and want to plan for integrated pockets from the beginning, you have the most flexibility and the opportunity to create the cleanest result.
Plan the placement of your pocket opening before you begin. Most patterns suggest placing horizontal pockets somewhere between the hip and waist, roughly 2 to 3 inches above the cast-on edge. Decide on your pocket width — typically 20 to 30 stitches, depending on your gauge and desired size.
Before you begin knitting the main body, cast on and work your pocket linings. These are separate flat pieces worked in stockinette to the same height as where your pocket opening will appear on the garment. Place them on stitch holders when complete.
When you reach the pocket opening row while working the garment body, you will work to the first edge of the pocket position, place the pocket stitches on a holder, pick up the live stitches from your pre-knitted lining, and continue working across. This is the critical moment — the pocket lining stitches replace the garment stitches for the width of the pocket, and those held garment stitches will become your pocket facing later.
Once the garment body is complete, return to the held pocket stitches. Pick up along the opening and work a pocket border — typically a narrow band of ribbing or seed stitch, just 4 to 6 rows deep. Graft or seam the pocket lining to the inside of the garment on three sides. Press the edges lightly if your yarn allows it.
Tips for Getting Gauge Right When Adding Pockets
Gauge is always important in knitting, but it becomes especially critical when adding pockets to a garment. A pocket worked at a slightly different gauge than the body will pucker, sag, or pull at the attachment points. Before casting on any pocket piece, always swatch in the exact yarn and needles you are using, and confirm that your gauge matches.
If you are adding a patch pocket in a different stitch pattern than the body — say, a seed stitch pocket on a stockinette sweater — remember that different stitch patterns can produce different gauges even on the same needles and yarn. Seed stitch tends to be slightly wider and shorter than stockinette at the same needle size. Swatching in the actual pocket stitch is the only reliable way to account for this.
Choosing the Right Yarn for Pocket Knitting
Almost any yarn can be used for knitted pockets, but a few considerations are worth keeping in mind. For pocket linings, which will not be visible, you want a yarn that is smooth, relatively thin, and does not add unnecessary bulk. If your main garment is worked in a thick or textured yarn, consider using a thinner, complementary yarn for the lining to reduce bulk inside the pocket.
For visible pocket elements like patch pockets or pocket borders, you want the yarn to match or intentionally contrast with the main fabric. Matching yarn is the safest choice for a seamless look. Contrasting yarn in a complementary color can add a lovely pop of detail — think a mustard-yellow pocket on a navy cardigan or a rust-orange pocket flap on a heathered gray pullover.
Durability matters too. Pockets take real wear. They are stuffed with phones, pulled open repeatedly, and subjected to more stress than most parts of a garment. A yarn with good stitch definition and decent durability — a wool-nylon blend, for example — holds up better in pockets than something delicate and loosely spun.
Finishing Your Pockets Beautifully
Finishing is where knitted pockets succeed or fail visually. Even a structurally sound pocket can look sloppy if the finishing is rushed. A few habits will serve you well here.
Always weave in your ends securely before seaming. Pocket edges see a lot of movement, and an end that works itself loose in a pocket is frustratingly difficult to fix after assembly.
Block your pocket pieces before attaching them. Blocking evens out the stitches, sets the dimensions accurately, and makes seaming dramatically easier. Even a light wet blocking makes a real difference.
Use a sharp tapestry needle and a length of matching yarn for seaming. Work slowly, matching rows carefully, and pull your seaming yarn snugly but not tightly — tight seaming puckers the fabric.
If your pocket mouth shows any tendency to curl or stretch, reinforce it from the inside with a small length of grosgrain ribbon or cotton twill tape. Fold it over the inside edge and tack it in place with a needle and thread. This is a classic tailoring technique that works equally well in handknits.
Finding Extra Pocket Knitting Patterns
If you would rather work from a pattern that already includes pockets — or specifically adds a pocket to an existing design — there are excellent resources available. Ravelry is the most comprehensive database of knitting patterns in the world, and its search function allows you to filter for patterns that include pockets. Searching “extra pocket” or “add pocket” alongside your project type brings up a wide range of options for every skill level.
Many independent knitwear designers have published standalone pocket add-on patterns — short, inexpensive PDF downloads that give you all the instructions for adding a specific pocket style to any project. These are particularly useful if you have a favorite sweater pattern that is otherwise perfect but lacks pockets.
Books dedicated to knitwear construction, such as those by Elizabeth Zimmermann, Alasdair Post-Quinn, and Ann Budd, include detailed sections on pocket construction and modification that translate well across many patterns. Knitting workshops, both in-person and online, also frequently cover pocket techniques as part of a broader garment construction curriculum.
Inspiring Ideas for Using Extra Pockets in Your Knitting
Once you have mastered the basics of knitting pockets, it is worth thinking creatively about where and how to use them. A large patch pocket on the back of a children’s sweater makes a charming surprise. A small secretive welt pocket on the inside of a coat lining is a lovely personal detail. A row of three small pockets across the front of a simple tote bag adds instant practicality and visual rhythm.
Pockets can be embellished with buttons, embroidery, or applied crochet edging for extra character. They can be shaped — rounded at the bottom corners for a soft, vintage look, or squared off sharply for a modern aesthetic. They can be deep enough to hold a paperback book or shallow enough to tuck a handkerchief.
The beauty of adding pockets to your knitting is that it is one of the most satisfying ways to make a garment truly your own. Every knitter who has experienced the moment of plunging their hands into the pockets of something they made themselves knows that particular joy. It is the feeling of a garment that is not just beautiful but genuinely, completely yours — built for your hands, your life, and your sense of what a piece of clothing ought to be.
Whether you start small with a patch pocket on a finished cardigan or plan a fully integrated inset pocket into your next sweater from cast-on to bind-off, adding pockets to your knitting is a skill that rewards every bit of effort you put into it. The techniques are learnable, the tools are minimal, and the result is knitwear that you will reach for again and again. That is the real promise of the extra pocket knitting pattern — more function, more character, and more joy in every stitch.
