Rainbow Mandala Entrelac Blanket Knitting Pattern: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide

There is something undeniably magical about a project that combines color, geometry, and texture all at once. The Rainbow Mandala Entrelac Blanket is exactly that kind of project — a stunning, conversation-starting piece that looks wildly complex but is built entirely from small, manageable squares worked one at a time. Whether you are a seasoned knitter looking for your next showstopper or an adventurous intermediate knitter ready to level up, this pattern will guide you through every step of creating a breathtaking heirloom blanket.

Entrelac is one of those techniques that tends to stop people in their tracks at craft fairs and yarn shops. The interlocking diagonal squares create a woven, basketweave-like fabric that feels luxurious in the hand and photographs beautifully. Add a mandala-inspired rainbow color progression to the mix, and you have a blanket that functions almost like a piece of wall art. Let’s get into everything you need to know.

What Is Entrelac Knitting?

Before diving into the pattern itself, it helps to understand the technique behind it. Entrelac (from the French word meaning “interlaced” or “entwined”) is a method of knitting where you create a series of small squares or rectangles that connect to each other as you work. Unlike traditional knitting, where you build rows of fabric horizontally from cast-on to bind-off, entrelac creates fabric on the diagonal. Each small square is picked up from the edge of a previously completed square, knitted, and then left to connect seamlessly to the next.

The result looks woven — almost like the squares were interlaced by hand after knitting — but it is created entirely with needles, with no sewing or weaving required. The fabric is thick, squishy, and wonderfully structured, making it perfect for blankets.

One of the most appealing aspects of entrelac for a project like this is that it is naturally modular. You work in small, defined units, which means color changes are both easy and intuitive. Each individual square becomes an opportunity to introduce a new shade, and when those shades follow a rainbow gradient radiating outward like the rings of a mandala, the final effect is genuinely breathtaking.

Understanding the Mandala Color Concept

The “mandala” in this blanket’s name refers to its color structure rather than any literal mandala motif in the stitch pattern. Mandalas are circular designs that radiate symmetrically from a central point, and this blanket mirrors that idea through the placement of color.

You begin with a single square at the center in a deep, rich anchor color — traditionally a jewel-toned purple or indigo — and then work outward in concentric rings of color. As the blanket grows, the colors shift from violet to blue, from blue to green, from green to yellow, from yellow to orange, and finally to red at the outermost edge, completing the full spectrum of a rainbow.

This progression creates the illusion that the blanket is radiating color outward from the center the way light radiates from a single source. The diagonal orientation of entrelac squares enhances this effect, giving the piece a dynamic, spiraling energy that static grid-based blankets simply cannot achieve.

You can work this gradient with individual skeins of yarn in carefully chosen shades, or you can use a self-striping or gradient yarn that handles the color transitions for you. More on that in the materials section.

Materials You Will Need

Getting your materials sorted before you begin will make the entire project more enjoyable. Here is what you need to gather.

Yarn: You will need approximately 1,200 to 1,800 yards of worsted-weight yarn in total, depending on the finished size of your blanket. For the rainbow gradient, plan for roughly six to eight distinct color families: violet/purple, blue, teal/green, yellow-green, yellow, orange, red-orange, and red. If you are buying individual skeins, look for 100% superwash wool or a wool-acrylic blend for durability and easy care. Brands like Cascade 220 Superwash, Paintbox Simply DK (held double), or Lion Brand Wool-Ease are all excellent choices. If you prefer to let the yarn do the color work, a long-repeat gradient yarn like the Freia Fine Handpaints Ombre Sport or a hand-dyed gradient set works beautifully.

Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) circular needles are ideal for most worsted-weight yarns in this pattern. Circular needles are strongly recommended even though you are not knitting in the round — the cable gives you room to hold the growing number of active stitches without straining your wrists. If you have a strong preference for straight needles, you can use them for the individual squares, but you will find circulars much more comfortable as the piece grows.

Additional supplies: A set of stitch markers, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and a row counter or a simple tally system for tracking your square count. A blocking mat and rustproof pins are very helpful for finishing, as blocking transforms entrelac from nice to extraordinary.

Gauge

Gauge matters in a blanket primarily for sizing, not for fit. With worsted-weight yarn on US 7 needles, you should expect approximately 20 stitches and 28 rows over a 4-inch square in stockinette. Each entrelac square in this pattern is worked over 10 stitches and 20 rows, producing a roughly 2-inch by 2-inch finished square. The full blanket as written measures approximately 40 by 40 inches, making it a generously sized lap blanket or a perfect crib blanket.

If you want a larger throw (around 50 by 60 inches), you can increase the number of stitches per square to 12 or 14 and adjust the row count proportionally, or simply add additional rounds of color to the outer edge.

Abbreviations and Stitch Key

Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used.

CO: cast on. BO: bind off. K: knit. P: purl. K2tog: knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease). SSK: slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease). PU: pick up. RS: right side. WS: wrong side. St(s): stitch(es).

Pattern Instructions

Foundation Squares (Center)

The blanket begins with a base tier of squares that will anchor all future squares. Unlike most entrelac blankets, which begin with a rectangular base row, this one begins from a central point and expands outward in all four diagonal directions, giving it the mandala-style radiating shape.

Central Square (make 1 in Color A — deep violet):

Using Color A, CO 10 sts. Work in stockinette (knit RS rows, purl WS rows) for 20 rows. Do not bind off. Leave sts on needle or place on a holder. This is your first and only center square.

Tier 1 Squares (work 4 squares in Color A):

These four squares are picked up from each side of the central square, establishing the diagonal orientation of the entrelac grid.

For each Tier 1 square: With RS facing and using Color A, pick up and knit 10 sts along one edge of the center square. Work in stockinette for 20 rows, joining the last stitch of every WS row to the adjacent live stitch from the center square via SSK. When all live stitches have been joined, work the final row and leave stitches on a holder.

Repeat for all four sides of the center square.

Expanding Outward: Tiers 2 Through Final Border

Each subsequent tier adds a ring of squares around the perimeter of the growing blanket. As you move outward from the center, the number of squares in each tier increases by four, maintaining the square shape of the overall blanket.

Tier 2 (work 8 squares in Color B — medium blue):

The corners of the expanding blanket require a special corner square technique. At each corner position, you will pick up stitches from two adjacent squares — 5 from one edge and 5 from the other — for a total of 10 stitches. Work these as you did Tier 1 squares, joining to adjacent live stitches on WS rows. Along the edges between corners, work standard squares picked up from a single adjacent square edge.

For Tier 2, you will have 4 corner squares and 4 edge squares, totaling 8 squares.

Tier 3 (work 12 squares in Color C — teal/blue-green):

Continue expanding. Tier 3 has 4 corner squares and 8 edge squares, totaling 12 squares.

Tier 4 (work 16 squares in Color D — green):

4 corner squares and 12 edge squares. 16 squares total.

Tier 5 (work 20 squares in Color E — yellow-green):

4 corner squares and 16 edge squares. 20 squares total.

Tier 6 (work 24 squares in Color F — golden yellow):

4 corner squares and 20 edge squares. 24 squares total.

Tier 7 (work 28 squares in Color G — orange):

4 corner squares and 24 edge squares. 28 squares total.

Tier 8 (work 32 squares in Color H — red-orange):

4 corner squares and 28 edge squares. 32 squares total.

Tier 9 / Border Tier (work 36 squares in Color I — deep red):

This is your final tier and forms the outermost ring. Work exactly as the preceding tiers. Once all 36 squares are complete, proceed to the border.

The Border

A clean, even border pulls the entire blanket together and keeps the diagonal edges from looking unfinished.

With Color I (deep red) or a contrasting border color of your choice, pick up stitches evenly around the entire perimeter of the blanket — approximately 1 stitch for every row end along the diagonal edges, and 1 stitch for every stitch along the flat edges. Place markers at each of the four corners.

Work three rounds of garter stitch (knit every round), increasing at each corner marker by working a yarn-over before and after each marker stitch on every round. This creates the gentle mitered corners that allow the border to lie flat. Bind off loosely on the final round. If you want a deeper border, work five or seven rounds instead of three.

Color Variations and Customization

One of the joys of this pattern is how many ways it can be personalized. The rainbow gradient described here is just one interpretation. Here are a few others worth considering.

A monochromatic version in shades of a single color — from near-white at the center to the deepest, richest version of that color at the edge — creates a sophisticated, elegant blanket that works beautifully in navy, forest green, or dusty rose. This version tends to appeal to knitters who love texture but prefer subtle color.

A sunset version reverses the traditional rainbow, placing warm reds and oranges at the center and fading outward through cooler pinks, lavenders, and finally soft blues and grays at the outer edge. This colorway has become extremely popular in the craft community because it photographs with stunning warmth and depth.

For babies or children, a soft pastel rainbow using high-quality cotton or superwash wool in baby-appropriate colors makes a gift that will be treasured for years. The entrelac structure holds up remarkably well to washing, especially in a wool-acrylic blend.

You can also break from the solid-per-tier rule and use a different color for every single square, sourcing small amounts of yarn from your stash. This scrap-yarn approach creates a wildly colorful, confetti-like version that is deeply personal and a wonderful way to commemorate years of other projects.

Tips for Successful Entrelac Knitting

If this is your first entrelac project, a few pieces of practical advice will make your experience much smoother.

Work a practice swatch of at least four squares before you begin the blanket. Entrelac requires you to pick up stitches from edges at specific intervals, and the spacing takes a little practice to get consistent. A few trial squares will calibrate your muscle memory before any of it counts.

Keep your tension consistent. Because you are constantly picking up new stitches from edges, it is easy to pull too tight at pick-up points. Be intentional about maintaining the same relaxed tension you would use for any other knitting.

Weave in ends as you go. Entrelac generates a large number of ends — one for every color change and every new square — and leaving them all for the end is genuinely daunting. A few minutes of end-weaving between tiers keeps the project manageable and the back of the blanket tidy.

Use a lifeline if you are nervous about mistakes. Thread a piece of contrasting yarn through all live stitches at the end of a completed tier. If you need to rip back, you will only lose one tier at most rather than having to start over.

Label your yarn. When working with eight or more colors, it is surprisingly easy to grab the wrong skein. Small sticky notes or yarn tags attached to each wound ball with the tier number they belong to will save you from color-order confusion.

Blocking Your Finished Blanket

Blocking is the step that transforms a good knitted piece into a truly spectacular one, and it matters especially for entrelac because the diagonal construction can leave the edges looking slightly irregular before wet blocking.

To wet block your blanket, soak it completely in cool water with a small amount of wool wash for about 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out the water without wringing or twisting — roll the blanket in a clean towel and press firmly to remove as much moisture as possible. Lay it flat on your blocking mat and ease it into a perfectly square shape, pinning the corners and edge points as needed. Allow it to dry completely, which may take 24 to 48 hours depending on your climate and the fiber content of your yarn.

Once dry and unpinned, the difference is remarkable. The squares settle into their structure, the fabric relaxes and evens out, and the colors appear more vibrant and distinct. If you used superwash wool or an acrylic-blend yarn, you can also use the steam-blocking method with a garment steamer held a few inches above the surface, never pressing down.

Caring for Your Rainbow Mandala Entrelac Blanket

For a blanket made in superwash wool or a wool-acrylic blend, machine washing on a gentle, cool cycle in a mesh laundry bag is perfectly fine. Lay flat to dry rather than putting it in the dryer, as heat can cause felting in wool fibers and distort the structure of the squares. Pure cotton versions can be machine-washed and dried on low heat.

Store the blanket folded rather than rolled when not in use, and keep it away from prolonged direct sunlight, which can fade the colors over time — especially the deeper jewel tones.

Why Knitters Love This Project

Beyond the technical satisfaction of mastering entrelac, this blanket has an almost meditative quality to its construction. Because each square is small and self-contained, you always know exactly where you are in the project. There are no long rows to slog through, no complex stitch counts to keep track of across hundreds of stitches, and no single mistake that requires unraveling large swaths of work. Each square is a small commitment — 20 rows, done, next square.

The color progression adds a layer of anticipation to the project. Every time you reach the end of a tier and pick up your next skein, there is a small thrill of seeing the new color join the growing wheel of the blanket. Watching the mandala take shape tier by tier is immensely satisfying in a way that few knitting projects match.

This is also a blanket that makes an extraordinary gift. It photographs well, it has clear sentimental value, and anyone who receives it will immediately understand that significant time and skill went into its creation. It works as a wedding gift, a graduation gift, a baby shower gift, or simply as a gesture of love for someone who deserves something made with care.

If you have been on the fence about trying entrelac, this project is the right excuse. The technique is more approachable than it looks, the color structure guides you through the process naturally, and the finished result is something that will genuinely make people ask, every single time they see it, “You made that?”

Yes. You did.

Final Thoughts

The Rainbow Mandala Entrelac Blanket sits at the intersection of geometry, color theory, and craft in a way that feels rare and special. It is the kind of project that reminds you why you fell in love with knitting in the first place — because with two needles, some yarn, and a little patience, you can build something that is genuinely beautiful from nothing