How to Knit the Lagos Blanket – Free Knitting Pattern

There is something deeply satisfying about a blanket that looks complicated but knits up with a rhythm so natural your hands begin to memorize the stitches within the first few rows. The Lagos Blanket is exactly that kind of project. Named for the vibrant, layered energy of Lagos, Nigeria, this design draws on bold geometric repetition to create a striking textured fabric that works beautifully in a single color or in a carefully chosen palette. Whether you are a confident beginner ready to push into new territory or an experienced knitter looking for a cozy long-term project, the Lagos Blanket has something to offer you.

In this post I am going to walk you through every detail of this free pattern — the materials you will need, how to read the stitch pattern, tips for keeping your edges tidy, and how to finish the blanket so it looks polished and intentional. By the end you will have everything you need to cast on your first stitch with confidence.

A Little About the Design

The Lagos Blanket is built around a simple but visually powerful combination of knit and purl stitches arranged in a traveling block pattern. When you step back and look at the finished fabric, you see a series of raised squares that appear to tumble across the surface of the blanket, catching light differently depending on the angle. This effect is achieved entirely through basic knit and purl manipulation — no cables, no colorwork, no complex decreases. The design is accessible but never boring.

The blanket shown in the pattern photos is worked in a warm medium grey, but it would be equally gorgeous in a deep terracotta, a dusty sage, a creamy off-white, or even a rich charcoal. If you want to experiment with two colors, a simple stripe sequence every eight rows gives the pattern a completely different personality without complicating the stitch work at all.

Materials and Gauge

Before you cast on, gather your materials and swatch. I know, I know — swatching feels like the part everyone skips. But for a blanket this size, even a small gauge difference adds up to several inches across the finished width, so it genuinely pays to take fifteen minutes and check your numbers.

Yarn: Approximately 1,400 meters (1,530 yards) of a chunky weight yarn, classified as weight 5 (bulky) on the standard yarn weight system. The pattern sample was worked in a 100% wool single-ply chunky with excellent stitch definition. A smooth yarn without too much halo will show the texture most clearly. If you choose a softer, fluffier yarn the pattern will still be beautiful, just softer in definition.

Needles: 8mm (US 11) straight or circular needles, at least 80cm (32 inches) in length if you are using circulars. The blanket is worked flat back and forth in rows, so you do not need to join in the round. Circular needles are recommended simply because the total stitch count can feel unwieldy on straight needles as the fabric grows.

Notions: Stitch markers (optional but helpful), tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, tape measure.

Gauge: 12 stitches and 16 rows = 10cm (4 inches) in stockinette stitch after blocking. Check your gauge over a minimum 15cm by 15cm swatch, block it the same way you intend to block the finished blanket, and then measure.

Finished Dimensions: Approximately 120cm wide by 150cm long (47 inches by 59 inches). This is a generous lap blanket size that works equally well draped over a sofa or piled on a bed. You can adjust the finished size by casting on in multiples of 16 stitches plus 4 (for the selvedge stitches) and working more or fewer rows.

Abbreviations

Throughout this pattern the following abbreviations are used:

CO — cast on
BO — bind off
K — knit
P — purl
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
St/sts — stitch/stitches
Rep — repeat
Sl — slip stitch purlwise with yarn in back unless otherwise stated
PM — place marker
SM — slip marker

Special Techniques

Selvedge Stitches: This pattern uses a simple slipped selvedge on both edges. At the beginning of every row, slip the first stitch purlwise with the yarn held in front, then bring the yarn to the working position for your first actual stitch. At the end of every row, knit the last stitch through the back loop. This creates a neat, chain-like edge on both sides that makes finishing and seaming far tidier if you choose to add a border later.

Reading the Chart: If you are comfortable reading knitting charts, a downloadable version of the stitch chart is available at the end of this post. Each square on the chart represents one stitch. Squares with a dot represent purl stitches on the right side (knit stitches on the wrong side). Empty squares represent knit stitches on the right side (purl stitches on the wrong side). Read right-side rows from right to left and wrong-side rows from left to right.

The Stitch Pattern Explained

The Lagos stitch pattern is worked over a repeat of 16 stitches and 16 rows. Each block of stitches shifts by 8 stitches every 8 rows, creating the tumbling, stepping effect that gives the blanket its character. Here is how the 16-row repeat works in plain language before we get into the row-by-row instructions.

Rows 1 through 8 create a set of raised knit blocks sitting on a purl background. Rows 9 through 16 shift those blocks horizontally by half a repeat, so the raised squares now sit where the purl valleys were before. When you repeat these 16 rows across the length of your blanket, the pattern tiles seamlessly and creates the continuous tumbling effect.

Pattern Instructions

Cast On: Using the long-tail cast on method (or your preferred cast on), CO 148 stitches. The pattern repeat is 16 stitches, and you have 144 stitches for the pattern plus 4 stitches total for the selvedge (2 at each edge). If you want to adjust the width, add or remove stitches in multiples of 16.

Take a moment before you begin to mark the center of your cast on row with a stitch marker if you are new to tracking pattern repeats. This can help you catch any miscounts early before they ripple down into the fabric.

Rows 1–8 (First Half of Repeat)

Row 1 (RS): Sl1, K8, P8; rep from to last 3 sts, K2, K1tbl.

Row 2 (WS): Sl1, P8, K8; rep from to last 3 sts, P2, K1tbl.

Row 3: As Row 1.

Row 4: As Row 2.

Row 5: As Row 1.

Row 6: As Row 2.

Row 7: As Row 1.

Row 8: As Row 2.

Rows 9–16 (Second Half of Repeat)

Row 9 (RS): Sl1, P8, K8; rep from to last 3 sts, P2, K1tbl.

Row 10 (WS): Sl1, K8, P8; rep from to last 3 sts, K2, K1tbl.

Row 11: As Row 9.

Row 12: As Row 10.

Row 13: As Row 9.

Row 14: As Row 10.

Row 15: As Row 9.

Row 16: As Row 10.

These 16 rows form the complete pattern repeat. Continue working Rows 1 through 16 until the blanket measures approximately 148cm (58 inches) from the cast on edge, or until you have worked your desired number of repeats. The blanket as written ends after a complete 16-row repeat, giving a clean, symmetrical finish.

Bind Off: On a right-side row, bind off all stitches loosely in pattern, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches as you encounter them. A loose bind off is important here because a tight edge will draw in and fight against the natural stretch of the fabric. If you tend to bind off tightly, try going up one needle size for the bind off row only.

Tips for Knitting the Lagos Blanket Successfully

Count your stitches regularly. Because the pattern relies on the clean offset between rows 1–8 and rows 9–16, even a single dropped or added stitch can throw the blocks out of alignment. Get into the habit of counting your stitches at the end of every right-side row, especially for the first few repeats while the rhythm is establishing itself.

Use lifelines. At the end of every complete 16-row repeat, thread a contrasting yarn through all live stitches with a tapestry needle. This means that if you discover an error several rows back, you can rip back to the lifeline rather than starting from scratch. For a large blanket, this simple habit saves enormous amounts of stress.

Watch your tension on the purl stitches. Many knitters purl slightly looser than they knit, which can create visible inconsistencies in the blocks. If you notice that your purl rows look slightly looser, try using the combination knitting method for your purl stitches (purling through the back loop on the return row to compensate) or simply be mindful to keep your working yarn snug before each purl stitch.

Keep a row counter nearby. It sounds obvious, but losing track of whether you are on row 7 or row 9 is where most Lagos knitters run into trouble. A simple click counter or a pencil and paper tally will keep you oriented within each 16-row repeat.

Knitting in sections. If you are new to large blanket projects, it can help to think of the work in sections rather than as one continuous slog. Each complete 16-row repeat adds approximately 10cm to the length of the blanket. That means you have roughly 15 repeats to work in total, which is an easy mental framework for tracking progress. Completing one repeat per sitting is a perfectly achievable goal that keeps momentum alive.

Yarn Substitution Advice

The pattern calls for a bulky weight (weight 5) yarn, and while many yarns will work technically, the best results come from yarns with good stitch definition. This means avoiding extremely fuzzy or heavily textured yarns like bouclé or thick-and-thin singles where the stitch pattern will be obscured.

Excellent substitutes include any smooth wool or wool-blend chunky, such as Drops Andes, Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick, Paintbox Simply Chunky, or Cascade Yarns Magnum. If you want a more luxurious option, a merino-alpaca blend in chunky weight gives beautiful drape and softness while still showing the texture clearly.

For a summer or warm-weather version, a cotton-linen blend in a lighter weight (adjust your needle size and gauge accordingly) gives the blanket an entirely different character — crisper, lighter, and with a beautiful drape that would work well as a throw for a warmer climate.

Finishing and Blocking

Once you have bound off your final stitch and cut your yarn, take your time with the finishing. A well-blocked and neatly woven Lagos Blanket looks like a completely different object from an unblocked one, and the extra hour you spend on finishing is absolutely worth it.

Weaving in ends: Thread your tapestry needle and weave each end in at least two directions through the purl bumps on the wrong side of the work. Pull the end snug, not tight, before trimming. On a chunky yarn, ends have more bulk and can sometimes show through to the right side if woven in carelessly — take your time and work them into the fabric securely.

Wet blocking: Fill your bathtub or a large basin with lukewarm water and submerge the blanket completely. Allow it to soak for at least twenty minutes, pressing it gently to ensure the water has penetrated all the way through the fabric. Do not wring or twist. Lift the blanket out carefully (wet chunky wool is very heavy — support it from underneath to avoid distorting the fabric) and press it gently between clean dry towels to remove excess water.

Lay the blanket flat on a blocking surface — a foam blocking mat, a clean carpet, or even a spare bed covered with a clean sheet all work well. Pin the edges to your desired dimensions using rust-proof blocking pins or T-pins, easing the fabric gently to the finished measurements. Allow to dry completely, which for a chunky blanket may take up to 48 hours depending on your climate. The textured blocks will open up beautifully and the edges will lie flat once the blanket is fully dry.

Optional borders: If you would like to add a border, a simple two-row garter stitch pickup around all four edges is a clean and fast option. Using the same yarn, pick up stitches at a ratio of approximately 3 stitches for every 4 rows along the side edges, and 1 stitch for every cast on or bound off stitch along the top and bottom edges. Work 2 rows of garter stitch (knit every row) and bind off loosely. This adds a subtle, neat frame without competing with the textured interior.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make this blanket smaller for a baby or crib size?

Absolutely. Cast on 84 stitches (80 pattern stitches plus 4 selvedge stitches) and work until the piece measures approximately 90cm. This gives you a 70cm by 90cm baby blanket. Consider a softer, finer yarn for a baby version — a DK weight merino in a weight 3 yarn worked on 4.5mm needles, adjusted to the appropriate gauge, would create a wonderfully soft, lighter fabric.

What if I want to make a king-sized bed blanket?

To cover a standard king-sized bed as a top blanket, you would need to cast on approximately 244 stitches (240 pattern stitches plus 4 selvedge) and work to approximately 260cm in length. This is a significant project in terms of yardage — expect to need around 3,500 to 4,000 meters of chunky yarn. Consider joining as you go with multiple balls and checking your yarn lot numbers carefully to ensure consistent dye lots across the entire piece.

The blocks don’t seem to be offsetting correctly — what am I doing wrong?

The most common cause is beginning Row 9 in the wrong position within the repeat. Double-check that you have completed all 8 rows of the first half of the repeat before beginning Row 9. If your stitch count is correct but the offset looks wrong, count back to where you last had a clean block, rip back to your most recent lifeline, and restart from there. With a 16-stitch repeat it is easy to start a row on the wrong stitch if you have been interrupted mid-row.

Why You Will Love This Project

The Lagos Blanket occupies a wonderful spot in the knitting universe: it is complex enough to keep your attention across a long project, but regular enough that it becomes meditative once the rhythm is established. You will find yourself reaching for it on evenings when you want your hands busy while your mind is elsewhere, and you will also find it a satisfying puzzle when you sit down to knit with full attention.

The finished blanket has real weight and presence. It is the kind of object that feels considered, like it was designed to last and to be loved. Draped over the arm of a sofa or folded at the foot of a bed, it reads as intentional design rather than a casual craft project, even though you made every stitch yourself.

That, ultimately, is what the Lagos Blanket is about: the pleasure of creating something beautiful through patient, accumulated effort, one row at a time.

Share Your Makes

If you knit the Lagos Blanket, I would love to see it. Tag your finished photos with #LagosBlanket and #CJDesignBlog so the whole community can find them and be inspired by your colorway choices and yarn substitutions. There is nothing more motivating when you are on your twelfth repeat and counting down than seeing a beautiful finished photo from someone who made it to the end.

Happy knitting, and enjoy every stitch.

Free pattern by CJ Design Blog. This pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell or redistribute without permission. If you sell finished items made from this pattern, a link back to this original post is appreciated.