How to Knit a Cable Heart | Free Knitting Pattern + Video

There’s something deeply satisfying about combining two classic knitting techniques into one beautiful design. Cable knitting has been a beloved tradition for centuries, and when you shape those twisted stitches into a heart, the result feels both timeless and personal. Whether you’re making a Valentine’s Day gift, a wedding keepsake, or simply treating yourself to a rewarding weekend project, a cable heart is one of those patterns that earns gasps of admiration from everyone who sees it.

This free knitting pattern walks you through every step of creating a cable heart from scratch. We’ve included detailed written instructions, a stitch guide, tips for beginners, and guidance on how to follow along with the video tutorial. By the end, you’ll have a gorgeous textured heart that can be worn as a patch, framed as wall art, turned into a pillow, or gifted as a standalone keepsake.

Let’s dive in.

Why Knit a Cable Heart?

Cable knitting looks intimidating at first glance, but it’s one of those techniques that becomes almost addictive once you understand the basic principle. You’re simply moving stitches off their normal order by slipping them to a cable needle and holding them either in front of or behind your work before knitting them. That small manipulation creates the beautiful rope-like twists that define cable fabric.

When you apply cables to a heart shape, something magical happens. The twisted stitches follow the curves of the heart, giving it a raised, sculptural quality that flat stockinette simply can’t match. A cable heart looks handcrafted in the best possible sense — like something your grandmother might have made, but entirely your own.

This pattern is also wonderfully versatile. You can scale it up or down by adjusting your yarn weight and needle size. Knit it in chunky merino for a dramatic wall hanging. Use fingering weight cotton for a delicate bookmark. Work it in a classic cream wool for a wedding favor. The heart shape reads clearly at any scale, and the cables add texture and depth that photographs beautifully.

Materials You’ll Need

Before casting on, gather everything you need so you can work without interruption.

Yarn: Approximately 50 grams of a smooth, plied yarn in a worsted weight (approximately 200 yards). Smooth yarn is essential for cables because it allows the twist and structure of the stitch to show clearly. Avoid fuzzy or heavily textured yarns for your first attempt, as they obscure the cable definition. A classic wool or wool blend in a light or medium color will show the cables most beautifully.

Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) straight or circular needles. You can adjust this based on your yarn’s recommended gauge, but this is a good starting point for worsted weight.

Cable Needle: A short cable needle or a double-pointed needle in a similar or slightly smaller size. Some knitters prefer a J-shaped cable needle that holds stitches securely while you work; others use a straight DPN. Either works perfectly.

Tapestry Needle: For weaving in ends once you’ve finished.

Scissors.

Stitch Markers (optional): Helpful for keeping track of the cable panels, especially when you’re first learning the pattern.

Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US 7 needles. Gauge is less critical here than in a fitted garment, but if your heart comes out much larger or smaller than intended, adjust your needle size accordingly.

Understanding the Abbreviations

If you’re new to knitting patterns, abbreviations can feel like a foreign language. Here’s everything you’ll need for this pattern.

CO — Cast on. This is how you put your initial stitches onto the needle to begin knitting.

K — Knit. The most fundamental stitch in knitting.

P — Purl. The second fundamental stitch, which creates a bumpy texture on the side facing you.

K2tog — Knit two stitches together. A right-leaning decrease that reduces your stitch count by one.

SSK — Slip, slip, knit. A left-leaning decrease that also reduces your stitch count by one.

C4F — Cable four front. Slip two stitches to cable needle, hold in front, knit two stitches from left needle, then knit two stitches from cable needle.

C4B — Cable four back. Slip two stitches to cable needle, hold in back, knit two stitches from left needle, then knit two stitches from cable needle.

RS — Right side. The side of the fabric that faces outward when worn or displayed.

WS — Wrong side. The reverse side of the fabric.

PM — Place marker.

SM — Slip marker.

BO — Bind off. How you secure and remove stitches from your needle to finish the piece.

Rep — Repeat.

The Cable Heart Knitting Pattern

This pattern creates a flat, worked-in-the-round piece approximately 5 inches wide and 4.5 inches tall on the recommended yarn and needle size. It’s worked flat in rows, beginning at the bottom point of the heart and increasing outward, then dividing to form the two upper lobes.

Casting On and Working the Bottom Point

CO 3 stitches.

Row 1 (RS): K1, PM, K1, PM, K1.
Row 2 (WS): P across all stitches.
Row 3 (RS): K1, M1R, SM, K1, SM, M1L, K1. (5 stitches)
Row 4 (WS): P across.
Row 5 (RS): K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1. (7 stitches)
Row 6 (WS): P across.

Continue in this manner, making one increase on either side of the center stitch on every RS row, until you have 29 stitches. You will work approximately 13 increase rows total to reach this count.

Remove your stitch markers on the last increase row. You now have a triangular wedge of stockinette fabric that forms the bottom point of the heart.

Setting Up the Cable Panel

Now you’ll establish the cable pattern across the full width of your work. The cables run vertically up the body of the heart, so setting them up correctly here is important.

Next RS row (setup): K4, P2, K6, P3, K1, P3, K6, P2, K4. (29 stitches)

Next WS row: P4, K2, P6, K3, P1, K3, P6, K2, P4.

These two rows establish your rib and cable pattern. The two 6-stitch sections are your cable panels. The center single knit stitch is the heart of the design — it will become the center dip at the top of the heart.

Cable Pattern Rows

You will now work the cable pattern while continuing to increase on each side.

RS Cable Row: K1, M1R, K3, P2, C4F, K2, P3, K1, P3, K2, C4B, P2, K3, M1L, K1. (31 stitches)

WS Row: P5, K2, P6, K3, P1, K3, P6, K2, P5.

RS Plain Row: K1, M1R, K4, P2, K6, P3, K1, P3, K6, P2, K4, M1L, K1. (33 stitches)

WS Row: P6, K2, P6, K3, P1, K3, P6, K2, P6.

Continue in this pattern, working C4F and C4B on the cable panels every 4th RS row and maintaining the rib columns and center stitch as established. Keep increasing one stitch on each side of every RS row until you have 41 stitches.

Work 4 more rows even (no increases) to add height to the body of the heart, maintaining all pattern stitches as established.

Dividing for the Two Lobes

This is the most exciting part of the pattern. You’ll divide your work in half to create the two rounded bumps at the top of the heart.

Dividing Row (RS): Work 20 stitches in pattern, BO the center stitch (this is your marked center K1), then work the remaining 20 stitches in pattern. (20 stitches on each side, with the center stitch bound off.)

You will now work each lobe separately. Set aside the left lobe stitches on a holder or a length of waste yarn.

Right Lobe

Turn so you’re working on only the 20 right-lobe stitches.

Row 1 (WS): BO 1 stitch at the inner edge (the edge near the center divide), work in pattern to end.
Row 2 (RS): Work in pattern to last 2 stitches, K2tog.
Row 3 (WS): BO 1 stitch at inner edge, work in pattern to end.
Row 4 (RS): Work in pattern to last 2 stitches, K2tog. (16 stitches)

Now work the outer edge of the lobe by increasing on the left side of your work as you decrease on the right, rounding the top of the lobe.

Row 5 (RS): K1, M1L, work in pattern to last 2 stitches, K2tog.
Row 6 (WS): Work even.
Row 7 (RS): K1, M1L, work in pattern to last 2 stitches, K2tog.
Row 8 (WS): Work even.

Continue in this manner, working the cable turns as they fall every 4 rows, for 8 more rows, keeping the stitch count steady as you shape the curve.

Begin decreasing on both sides to close the top of the lobe.

Next RS row: SSK, work in pattern to last 2 stitches, K2tog.
Next WS row: P2tog, work in pattern to last 2 stitches, P2tog tbl.

Repeat these two rows until 4 stitches remain. BO all stitches.

Left Lobe

Return your held left-lobe stitches to the needle, and rejoin yarn at the inner edge with the RS facing.

Row 1 (RS): BO 1 stitch at the inner edge, work in pattern to end.
Row 2 (WS): Work in pattern to last 2 stitches, P2tog.
Row 3 (RS): BO 1 stitch at inner edge, work in pattern to end.
Row 4 (WS): Work in pattern to last 2 stitches, P2tog. (16 stitches)

Now mirror the right lobe shaping.

Row 5 (RS): SSK, work in pattern to last stitch, M1R, K1.
Row 6 (WS): Work even.
Row 7 (RS): SSK, work in pattern to last stitch, M1R, K1.
Row 8 (WS): Work even.

Continue for 8 more rows, maintaining cables as they fall.

Begin closing the top of the lobe.

Next RS row: SSK, work in pattern to last 2 stitches, K2tog.
Next WS row: P2tog, work in pattern to last 2 stitches, P2tog tbl.

Repeat until 4 stitches remain. BO all stitches.

Finishing Your Cable Heart

Once both lobes are bound off, you’re in the final stretch. Weave in all ends securely using your tapestry needle, taking care to run ends along the back of the cable columns where they’ll be hidden by the texture.

Block your heart by dampening it gently and pinning it to a foam blocking board or a folded towel. Use rust-proof pins to shape it into a clean, symmetrical heart. Pay particular attention to the two upper lobes, coaxing them into smooth, rounded curves. Allow it to dry completely before removing the pins. Blocking transforms a cable knit piece — it relaxes the stitches, opens up the texture, and helps the shape read clearly and beautifully.

Video Tutorial

If you’re a visual learner, following along with a video makes cable knitting much easier to grasp. In the video tutorial linked with this post, you’ll find a step-by-step demonstration of every technique used in this pattern: the cable cast-on, working C4F and C4B, the increase rows, dividing for the lobes, and the final shaping. We demonstrate each step slowly and from multiple angles so you can see exactly what the stitches should look like at every stage.

Don’t be discouraged if your first cable attempt feels awkward. The mechanics of slipping stitches to a cable needle and holding them out of the way are unfamiliar the first time, but by your second or third cable turn, your hands will begin to understand the rhythm. Many knitters describe the moment cables “click” as one of the most satisfying experiences in the craft.

Tips for Success

A few hard-won tips will help your cable heart turn out beautifully on the first try.

Use a smooth, light-colored yarn for your first knitting attempt. Dark colors make it difficult to see individual stitches, and fuzzy or textured yarns hide the definition of the cables. Once you’ve made one heart and feel comfortable with the pattern, you can experiment with any fiber or color you like.

Don’t pull your yarn too tightly when crossing cables. One of the most common beginner mistakes is tugging the yarn after a cable cross, which creates puckering and uneven tension. Instead, work the stitches at a consistent, relaxed tension, and let the twist itself create the visual interest.

Count your stitches after every increase row. It’s easy to accidentally add or skip an increase, and catching the mistake early saves you from frogging (unraveling) a lot of work later.

If you find cable needles slippery and frustrating, try a different style. J-shaped needles grip stitches better than straight ones. Some knitters eventually abandon cable needles altogether and work cables without them once they’re confident — look up “cabling without a cable needle” once you’ve mastered the basics.

When dividing for the two lobes, use a locking stitch marker or a safety pin to mark the center stitch before you bind it off. This helps you find the exact center point and ensures both lobes are symmetrical.

Creative Ways to Use Your Cable Heart

Once you’ve finished your first cable heart, you’ll quickly want to make more — and the good news is that this small pattern opens up a world of creative possibilities.

Sew your heart onto a knitted or woven cushion cover for a Valentine’s Day pillow that can be displayed year-round. The textured surface adds visual interest to any living room or bedroom.

Frame it as textile art. Mount your blocked heart onto a contrasting fabric background, place it in a simple wooden frame, and hang it on the wall. It makes a deeply personal and beautiful piece of home décor.

Knit several hearts in different colors and sew them together into a garland. String them on a length of twine or ribbon for a heartfelt decoration for a baby shower, wedding, or seasonal display.

Attach a button loop to the back and use it as a brooch. A cable heart in a neutral or jewel-toned yarn makes a striking accessory pinned to a coat lapel or a knitted hat.

Incorporate the cable heart into a larger project. The basic cable and shaping principles in this pattern can be applied to yokes, mittens, blanket squares, and bag panels. Once you understand how the cables and increases work together to create the shape, you can adapt the idea to almost any knitted surface.

Make multiples as gifts. This pattern uses less than 50 grams of yarn and can be completed in a few hours by an intermediate knitter. That makes it a perfect project for knitting thoughtful gifts for everyone on your list without spending a fortune on materials.

Storing and Caring for Your Cable Heart

Wool and wool-blend knits do best when hand-washed in cool water with a gentle wool wash, then laid flat to dry. Avoid hanging knitted pieces, as the weight of wet yarn can stretch the fabric out of shape. If you’ve used a superwash wool, you may be able to machine wash on a gentle cycle, but always check your yarn label.

Store finished pieces folded in a drawer or on a shelf rather than hanging. For long-term storage, add a cedar block or lavender sachet to deter moths, which are especially attracted to natural wool fibers.

A Note on Modifying This Pattern

Knitting patterns are