Hemlock Ring Blanket — Free Pattern

There is something quietly magnificent about a lace blanket. It moves differently than a plain knit, catches light in ways that feel almost accidental, and somehow manages to look far more complex than the hours you actually spent making it. The Hemlock Ring Blanket is exactly that kind of project — a showpiece that lives at the intersection of heirloom craft and achievable skill, and one of the most beloved free patterns in the knitting community for good reason.

Whether you are a seasoned lace knitter looking for your next obsession or an adventurous intermediate knitter ready to try something genuinely beautiful, this pattern is worth every stitch. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from materials and yarn choices to the construction method, stitch pattern breakdown, helpful tips, and finishing touches that make all the difference.

What Is the Hemlock Ring Blanket?

The Hemlock Ring Blanket is a circular lace blanket knitted from the center outward. It was designed by Jared Flood, the New York-based designer and photographer behind Brooklyn Tweed, and it was originally published in Interweave Knits back in 2008. Flood made the pattern freely available, and it quickly became one of those cornerstone projects that appears on every “must-knit” list for lace knitters.

The design draws on traditional Shetland lace ring motifs, which Flood adapted and arranged into a large, dramatic circular blanket. The result is something that looks like it belongs in a museum or draped across a carefully styled bed in an interior design shoot, yet it uses only knit, purl, yarn over, and decrease stitches — the building blocks every intermediate knitter already knows.

The finished blanket measures approximately 60 inches in diameter, which makes it genuinely useful as a lap blanket, a throw, a christening blanket, a wedding gift, or an heirloom piece meant to be passed down. It is knitted on circular needles using a center-out construction, which means you start with just a handful of cast-on stitches and gradually work outward through concentric rings of pattern, each one more satisfying than the last.

Why Knitters Love This Pattern

The Hemlock Ring Blanket has remained popular for over fifteen years, which in the world of knitting trends is practically an eternity. There are a few reasons it has such staying power.

First, it is genuinely free. Jared Flood made it available without cost, and it has been hosted on various platforms and linked widely throughout the knitting community. You can find it on Ravelry, where it has accumulated thousands of project pages and an enormous collection of notes, photos, and modifications from knitters all over the world. That community knowledge base is invaluable when you are working through a tricky section or deciding on yarn substitutions.

Second, the construction is deeply satisfying. Starting from the center of a circular piece and watching it grow outward feels meditative and rewarding in a way that flat knitting sometimes does not. Every few rounds, you turn the piece and see the full shape emerging, and that visual feedback is genuinely motivating.

Third, and perhaps most importantly, the pattern is elegant but approachable. The lace work is not difficult — it relies on simple yo-k2tog and ssk decreases — but the arrangement of those stitches creates something that looks intricate and intentional. This is the kind of project you knit and feel proud to say you made.

Materials You Will Need

Yarn: The original pattern calls for a laceweight or fingering weight yarn. Flood used Quince and Co. Tern, a wool-silk blend, for several versions, but the pattern works beautifully in a wide range of fibers. You will need approximately 1,400 to 1,600 yards for a full-size blanket in fingering weight, or roughly 700 to 900 yards if you are working in a heavier laceweight and adjusting needle size accordingly.

When choosing yarn for this project, you want something with good stitch definition, as the lace pattern depends on clean, visible lines. Pure wool or a wool blend with a touch of silk or alpaca is ideal — both for definition and for the way blocked lace drapes and opens up. Superwash wool works, but it tends to be a bit stretchier and may not hold its blocked shape quite as crisply. Plant fibers like cotton and linen are technically possible but generally not recommended for their first lace project, as they lack the elasticity that makes lace knitting forgiving.

Some popular yarn choices from the knitting community include Malabrigo Lace, Brooklyn Tweed Loft, Hazel Knits Artisan Sock, and various indie-dyed fingering weight yarns. A hand-dyed semi-solid or tonal colorway tends to show the lace structure better than a busy variegated, though a gentle gradient from center to edge can be absolutely stunning if you plan it carefully.

Needles: You will need a set of circular needles in US size 4 (3.5mm) or US size 5 (3.75mm), in a long length — at least 40 inches, and ideally 47 or 60 inches — to accommodate the large number of stitches as the blanket grows. Magic loop technique works well for the early rounds when the stitch count is still low, and you may want a shorter circular or a set of DPNs for the very center if magic loop feels uncomfortable with so few stitches.

Gauge matters somewhat, but this is a blanket rather than a garment, so a little variation from the stated gauge will simply result in a slightly larger or smaller finished piece. The pattern calls for approximately 22 stitches and 30 rounds per 4 inches in stockinette, but lace patterns always need to be blocked to measure accurately, so do not stress too much about matching this exactly.

Notions: You will need stitch markers — quite a few of them, actually, as the pattern uses them to divide the work into repeating sections. Having at least 12 to 16 markers is helpful, and using a slightly different marker for the beginning of round makes tracking your place much easier. A tapestry needle for weaving in your ends, a blocking mat, blocking wires, and T-pins are essential for finishing. We will talk more about blocking later, because it is genuinely transformative for this project.

Understanding the Construction

The Hemlock Ring Blanket is worked in the round from the center outward. You begin with a small number of cast-on stitches, typically using Judy’s Magic Cast-On or a similar center-start method, and work an initial increase section that establishes the circular shape. From there, you work through a series of charted lace sections, each of which is a full ring of pattern that adds another layer to the growing circle.

The pattern is worked entirely from a chart, which is a grid where each square represents one stitch and one round. If you have never worked from a chart before, this pattern is a wonderful introduction. The symbols are straightforward: a blank square is a knit stitch, a circle is a yarn over, a right-leaning line is a k2tog, and a left-leaning line is an ssk or sl1-k1-psso. Once you understand what each symbol means, the chart becomes easy to read and you quickly stop needing to refer to a written legend.

Each section of the blanket is worked over a certain number of rounds, and the stitch count increases as you move outward. The increases happen at regular intervals within the pattern, and the chart accounts for them naturally. You will place markers between each repeat of the pattern, which helps you keep track of where you are and makes it easy to catch mistakes before they compound.

The pattern has several distinct sections. The center medallion is worked first and establishes the shape. From there, you move through a series of lace rings, each with its own character — some dense and geometric, some more open and floral. The outer border is worked last and creates a clean, defined edge that frames the entire piece beautifully.

Tips for Success

Read the entire pattern before you begin. This sounds obvious, but for a project of this complexity, it really matters. Understanding how the sections connect, where the increases happen, and what the finished piece should look like will help you avoid confusion midway through.

Use lifelines generously. A lifeline is a length of smooth, contrasting yarn threaded through all the live stitches at the end of a complete section. If you make a mistake later, you can rip back to your lifeline without losing your work. For a blanket with hundreds of stitches per round, this is not just a convenience — it is essential peace of mind. Thread one at the end of each completed lace section, and you will never feel anxious about knitting a complicated row.

Work in good light. Lace knitting requires you to see your stitches clearly, and working in dim light leads to errors that are frustratingly hard to spot until you have already knitted several rounds past them. Natural daylight is best, and a good task lamp is a worthwhile investment for evening knitting.

Count your stitches regularly. After every increase round or at the end of each major section, count the stitches between your markers. The count should match the chart. If it does not, it is much easier to fix the problem now than after ten more rounds.

Do not pull your yarn overs tight. This is one of the most common beginner lace mistakes. The yarn overs in lace knitting form the holes that create the pattern, and if you tighten them as you go, the fabric will be stiff and the holes will disappear. Work with a relaxed tension, and trust that blocking will tighten up any unevenness.

Consider a swatch — blocked. Yes, swatching for a blanket feels unnecessary, but for lace work, a blocked swatch tells you something an unblocked swatch never will. Cast on a small section of the lace pattern, work it for a few inches, then wet it, pin it out, and let it dry. You will see how the yarn behaves when opened up, how the color looks with light coming through the holes, and whether you love the drape before you commit to 1,500 yards of knitting.

Reading the Chart

The Hemlock Ring chart is divided into sections that correspond to the rings of the blanket. Each section has a repeat that is worked a certain number of times around the circle — the number of repeats increases as the stitch count grows and the diameter expands.

For knitters who are new to charts, the most important thing to understand is that you read a chart from right to left and from bottom to top. Row 1 is at the bottom of the chart, and you work the first row by reading the symbols from right to left. The next row up is Row 2, and so on. When knitting in the round, every row is a right-side row, which means you are always reading the chart in the same direction — right to left — which actually simplifies things considerably compared to flat knitting.

Place a sticky note or ruler below your current row to keep your place. Moving it up after each completed round is a small habit that prevents a surprising amount of confusion. Some knitters also like to photocopy the chart and make notes directly on it, circling completed sections or marking where they added lifelines.

Blocking: The Transformation

If there is one step in this project that you absolutely cannot skip, it is blocking. Blocking a lace piece is the difference between a crumpled, indistinct fabric and a breathtaking heirloom. Before blocking, your Hemlock Ring Blanket will look like a vaguely circular wad of yarn. After blocking, it will look like the photographs that made you want to knit it in the first place.

To block a wet-blocked piece, submerge the finished blanket in cool or lukewarm water with a small amount of wool wash. Let it soak for at least 20 to 30 minutes, until the fiber is thoroughly saturated. Gently squeeze out the excess water — do not wring or twist — and then roll the blanket in a dry towel to remove more moisture. It should be damp, not dripping.

Lay your blocking mats out in a large open area. A spare bedroom floor, a clean living room rug, or even a few yoga mats pushed together works well. Lay the blanket flat and begin pinning it out from the center, smoothing and stretching the fabric outward as you go. Use blocking wires threaded through the outer edge to create a smooth, even perimeter, and then pin the wires at intervals to hold the shape. The edge should be taut but not strained.

Pay particular attention to the lace sections as you pin — pull the yarn overs open gently with your fingers and make sure each motif is stretched evenly. The circular shape should be as close to a true circle as you can manage, though slight variations are perfectly normal and will not be noticeable once the blanket is in use.

Leave the blanket to dry completely, which will take anywhere from several hours to a full day depending on your climate and yarn choice. When you unpin it, the transformation will be immediate and wonderful.

Yarn Substitutions and Color Ideas

The beauty of a free pattern with a large community behind it is that you have thousands of finished projects to draw inspiration from. On Ravelry alone, you will find the Hemlock Ring worked in every conceivable color, from pure undyed natural wool to vivid jewel tones to soft pastels to sophisticated deep neutrals.

For a christening or baby blanket, very soft white, cream, pale yellow, or the softest of pinks or blues tend to read as heirloom and precious. For a personal throw, deeper colors — navy, forest green, burgundy, warm charcoal — give the lace a richness and drama that is genuinely sophisticated. For a wedding or shower gift, the recipient’s favorite color or a color that suits their home is always appreciated.

If you want to try a gradient effect, some knitters have used gradient yarn sets or mini skein sets, joining new colors at the beginning of each new lace section. This creates a blanket that shifts gradually from one shade to another and really showcases the circular construction. The effect is stunning and worth the additional planning.

Finishing and Care

Once blocked and dry, your Hemlock Ring Blanket needs only its ends woven in — and because you were knitting in one continuous piece from the center out, there should be very few ends to deal with unless you joined new yarn along the way.

For ongoing care, most wool lace blankets do best with hand washing in cool water with a gentle wool wash. Avoid machine washing unless your yarn is explicitly superwash, and never put a lace knit in the dryer. Store it folded loosely in a breathable bag or wrapped in acid-free tissue paper if you are putting it away for a long period.

A Project Worth the Time

The Hemlock Ring Blanket is one of those rare knitting projects that rewards you at every stage — the meditative rhythm of the plain rounds, the satisfaction of a completed lace section, the growing circle taking shape on your needles, and finally the extraordinary moment when a blocked, opened-up piece of lace lies flat and you see what you have actually made.

It is a project that makes you proud of your craft. It is the kind of thing you photograph and frame and give to people you love and keep for yourself with only a small amount of guilt. It has been knitted by tens of thousands of people since Jared Flood put it into the world, and every single one of them, at some point while pinning out that wet blanket on a bedroom floor, has thought: this is why I knit.

Find the free pattern, gather your yarn, cast on those first few stitches, and start. The rings will grow. The lace will open. The blanket will become exactly as beautiful as you imagined.