Free Rose Dishcloth or Afghan Square Knitting Pattern — Daisy and Storm
There is something quietly wonderful about sitting down with a pair of knitting needles, a skein of cotton yarn, and a pattern that manages to be both beginner-friendly and genuinely beautiful. The Daisy and Storm Rose Dishcloth or Afghan Square pattern is exactly that kind of project — one of those deceptively simple designs that looks intricate once it is finished but is approachable enough that you can knit it while watching television or chatting with a friend. Whether you are making a single dishcloth for your kitchen, a set of coordinating cloths as a handmade gift, or joining dozens of squares together into a full-sized afghan, this pattern rewards every hour you put into it.
In this post, you will find the complete free pattern, a full materials list, helpful tips for beginners, ideas for customizing the design, and suggestions for using your finished squares. Pull up a chair, grab your yarn, and let us get started.
Why You Will Love the Daisy and Storm Pattern
Before diving into the pattern itself, it is worth talking about why this particular design has such lasting appeal. The rose motif sits at the center of each square, created through a clever combination of simple knit and purl stitches that give the impression of layered petals without requiring any complex techniques like cables or lace. The surrounding “storm” border — worked in a textured stitch pattern that evokes movement and depth — frames the central flower beautifully and makes every square feel complete and polished.
The name “Daisy and Storm” comes from the contrast between the soft, rounded quality of the rose center and the angular, rhythmic quality of the border. That contrast is precisely what makes the finished piece so visually satisfying. When you hold up a completed square, the eye travels naturally from the calm center outward to the energetic border, creating a sense of balance that is pleasing whether you are looking at one square on its own or dozens of them joined in a blanket.
Because the pattern is worked flat from the bottom edge to the top, there is no complicated construction to worry about. You cast on, work your rows, bind off, and you have a finished object. It does not get much more satisfying than that.
Materials You Will Need
One of the reasons this pattern is so popular is that it requires very little in the way of materials. Here is what you will need to get started.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn works beautifully for this pattern. If you are making dishcloths, 100% cotton is the ideal choice — it is absorbent, durable, and machine washable. Sugar n’ Cream, Paintbox Simply DK Cotton, and Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton are all excellent options. If you are working on an afghan, you can use any worsted weight wool, acrylic, or cotton-acrylic blend you love. A single skein of 100g cotton yarn is typically enough for two to three dishcloths, depending on the exact yarn weight and your tension.
Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) straight or circular needles work well for most worsted weight cotton yarn. If you tend to knit tightly, try going up half a size to US 7.5 or even US 8. The goal is a fabric that feels dense enough to be useful as a dishcloth but not so tight that it is stiff. For an afghan worked in wool or acrylic, follow the gauge guidelines on your yarn label.
Notions: You will need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and optionally a blocking mat and pins if you want to block your squares before joining them. A stitch counter can be helpful when you are first learning the pattern, though most knitters find they can work it from memory after one or two squares.
Gauge: Approximately 18 stitches and 26 rows to 4 inches in stockinette on US 7 needles. The finished square measures approximately 8 inches by 8 inches when blocked. If your gauge is slightly off, your square will simply be a bit larger or smaller — for dishcloths and afghan squares, gauge is flexible.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
Before you start knitting, it helps to review the abbreviations used in this pattern.
CO — Cast on
BO — Bind off
k — Knit
p — Purl
k2tog — Knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
ssk — Slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
yo — Yarn over
RS — Right side of work
WS — Wrong side of work
rep — Repeat
st(s) — Stitch or stitches
pm — Place marker
sl m — Slip marker
The pattern uses only knit and purl stitches in its main body, with the rose created through a raised purl technique worked over several rows. Even if you have never knit a motif before, you will find this one very manageable.
The Daisy and Storm Rose Dishcloth Pattern
Finished size: Approximately 8 inches × 8 inches after blocking
Cast on 40 stitches using your preferred cast-on method. A long-tail cast on gives a neat, elastic edge that looks particularly tidy.
Bottom Border (Rows 1–6)
The border is worked in seed stitch, which creates a firm, non-rolling edge that frames the square on all four sides.
Seed stitch setup: On every row, alternate k1, p1 across the row. On the next row, knit the purl stitches and purl the knit stitches — in other words, always work the opposite of what you see.
Row 1 (RS): K1, p1; rep from to end.
Row 2 (WS): P1, k1; rep from to end.
Rows 3–6: Repeat rows 1 and 2 two more times.
Body and Rose Motif (Rows 7–34)
The body section establishes the side borders in seed stitch while creating the rose motif in the center. The storm border texture fills the space between the seed stitch edges and the rose.
Row 7 (RS): K1, p1, k1 (seed stitch border), k to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1 (seed stitch border). — 40 sts
Row 8 (WS): P1, k1, p1, p to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.
Work rows 7 and 8 two more times (rows 9–12) to establish the plain stockinette field inside the borders.
Storm Texture Section (Rows 13–18)
The storm texture is worked in a simple broken rib that creates a rhythmic pattern of raised columns, suggesting movement around the rose.
Row 13 (RS): K1, p1, k1, k3, p2; rep from to last 7 sts, k4, p1, k1, p1.
Row 14 (WS): P1, k1, p1, p4, k2, p3; rep from to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.
Row 15 (RS): Same as row 13.
Row 16 (WS): Same as row 14.
Row 17 (RS): K1, p1, k1, k to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1.
Row 18 (WS): P1, k1, p1, p to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.
Rose Motif Center (Rows 19–26)
This is the heart of the pattern. The rose is created by working a series of purl stitches on the right side in a petal arrangement. The surrounding stitches are worked in reverse stockinette (purl on the RS, knit on the WS) to make the petals pop forward.
Row 19 (RS): K1, p1, k1, k8, p1, k3, p1, k3, p1, k3, p1, k3, p1, k3, p1, k8, p1, k1, p1. — 40 sts
Note: Each p1 worked on the right side will appear as a raised purl bump, forming the outline of the rose petals.
Row 20 (WS): P1, k1, p1, p8, k1, p3, k1, p3, k1, p3, k1, p3, k1, p3, k1, p8, k1, p1, k1.
Row 21 (RS): K1, p1, k1, k7, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k7, p1, k1, p1.
Row 22 (WS): P1, k1, p1, p7, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p7, k1, p1, k1.
Row 23 (RS): K1, p1, k1, k7, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k7, p1, k1, p1.
Row 24 (WS): P1, k1, p1, p7, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k1.
Row 25 (RS): K1, p1, k1, k8, p5, k3, p5, k8, p1, k1, p1. (This row closes the inner petals and draws the rose together at center.)
Row 26 (WS): P1, k1, p1, p8, k5, p3, k5, p8, k1, p1, k1.
Storm Texture Return (Rows 27–32)
Mirror the storm texture section to create a balanced composition.
Row 27 (RS): K1, p1, k1, k to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1.
Row 28 (WS): P1, k1, p1, p to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.
Row 29 (RS): K1, p1, k1, k3, p2; rep from to last 7 sts, k4, p1, k1, p1.
Row 30 (WS): P1, k1, p1, p4, k2, p3; rep from to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.
Row 31 (RS): Same as row 29.
Row 32 (WS): Same as row 30.
Transition Rows (Rows 33–34)
Row 33 (RS): K1, p1, k1, k to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1.
Row 34 (WS): P1, k1, p1, p to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.
Top Border (Rows 35–40)
Mirror the bottom border to finish the square.
Row 35 (RS): K1, p1; rep from to end.
Row 36 (WS): P1, k1; rep from to end.
Rows 37–40: Repeat rows 35 and 36 two more times.
Bind off loosely in seed stitch pattern on row 41: work each stitch in pattern as you bind off (knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches).
Weave in ends. Block if desired.
Blocking Your Square
Blocking makes a significant difference in the finished appearance of this pattern, especially if you are making multiple squares to join into an afghan. Wet blocking cotton yarn is simple: soak the finished square in cool water for about ten minutes, gently squeeze out the excess water without wringing, lay it flat on a blocking mat, and pin it to the correct dimensions. Allow it to dry completely before removing the pins. You will immediately notice how much more clearly the rose motif reads once the square has been blocked and the stitches have had a chance to relax and even out.
For wool yarn, steam blocking is also an option — hold a steam iron a few centimetres above the surface and allow the steam to penetrate the fabric, then reshape and leave to dry.
Customizing the Daisy and Storm Pattern
One of the joys of this kind of square pattern is how easily it adapts to different styles and purposes.
Colour: The pattern looks striking in a single solid colour, which allows the texture of the rose and the storm border to do all the visual work. But it is equally beautiful in a variegated or tonal yarn, where the subtle colour shifts add extra depth to the petal shapes. If you want a high-contrast look, consider a two-colour approach: work the border rows in one colour and the body section in another, carrying the yarn up the side of the work or breaking and rejoining as needed.
Size: To make a smaller dishcloth, cast on fewer stitches and reduce the number of rows in the body sections. A 30-stitch cast-on with a slightly reduced body produces a cloth approximately 6 inches square — ideal for a delicate hand cloth or a washcloth. To make a larger square for a throw or blanket, scale up by adding stitches in multiples of five so the storm texture pattern stays consistent.
Yarn weight: The pattern works in any weight, though the results differ beautifully depending on your choice. DK weight yarn on slightly smaller needles produces a denser, more refined fabric with crisp stitch definition. Bulky yarn on large needles creates a chunky, cozy version that works up very quickly — excellent for a speedy gift project.
Purpose: Beyond dishcloths and afghan squares, think about using this pattern for coasters (worked at a smaller scale in cotton), potholders (doubled up with two layers held together), decorative pillow fronts, or even as a standalone wall art piece if you work it in a beautiful hand-dyed yarn and frame it behind glass.
Joining Squares into an Afghan
If you decide to knit a full afghan from these squares, you will need to think about how to join them. The three most popular methods each give a different aesthetic result.
The mattress stitch join worked on the right side gives a nearly invisible seam that allows each square’s border to flow smoothly into the next. This is the most time-intensive method but produces the most polished result.
The three-needle bind-off joins two squares simultaneously while you are still on the needles, creating a neat ridge on the wrong side. It is fast and sturdy, which makes it a favourite for blankets that will see heavy use.
The crochet slip stitch join worked on the wrong side creates a visible ridge on the right side, which can itself become a design element if you work it in a contrasting colour. Many knitters love this approach because the joining lines create a secondary grid pattern that emphasizes the geometry of the squares.
For a standard lap blanket approximately 48 inches by 60 inches, you would need approximately 48 squares joined in a 6 by 8 arrangement. At roughly one square per two-hour knitting session, that is a very manageable long-term project — the kind you can work on consistently over several months and then gift or keep as an heirloom.
Tips for Beginners
If you are relatively new to knitting, here are a few pieces of advice that will help you get the best results from this pattern.
Read through the entire pattern before you cast on. Understanding the overall structure — borders, body, rose, body, borders — will help you see where you are in the pattern at any given moment and make it easier to troubleshoot if something goes wrong.
Use a row counter or a pencil and paper to keep track of your rows, especially through the rose motif section. It is very easy to lose your place in the middle of a motif if you are interrupted, and the rose section requires precise placement to look correct.
Do not worry if your first square looks a little uneven before blocking. Cotton and
