Bunny Cable Square Free Knitting Pattern: A Charming Project for Every Skill Level

There is something undeniably magical about combining two of knitting’s most beloved techniques into a single project. Cable knitting, with its rich braided textures and timeless appeal, pairs beautifully with the sweet, whimsical imagery of bunnies — and when you bring them together in a square format, you end up with one of the most versatile and rewarding knitting projects imaginable. Whether you are a seasoned knitter looking for a weekend project or someone who has recently discovered the joy of cables and wants to practice in a manageable format, this bunny cable square free knitting pattern is exactly what you have been searching for.

In this guide, you will find everything you need to knit your own bunny cable square from start to finish. We will cover the materials, abbreviations, techniques, step-by-step instructions, and plenty of ideas for how to use your finished squares. Best of all, this pattern is completely free, so you can bookmark this page and return to it as many times as you like.

Why Knit a Bunny Cable Square?

Before we dive into the pattern itself, let us talk about why this particular project is worth your time and yarn stash.

Cable squares are one of the most practical formats in knitting. A square is small enough to be portable, quick enough to finish in a few hours, and useful enough to justify making in large quantities. Many knitters use squares like this as building blocks for larger projects — think blankets, pillow covers, and patchwork throws. Others use them as standalone items: coasters, decorative wall hangings, or gifts that feel personal and handmade without requiring weeks of effort.

Adding a bunny cable motif takes things a step further. The bunny silhouette, rendered in raised cable stitches against a textured background, gives the square a charming, storybook quality that appeals to people of all ages. It is the kind of piece that draws compliments and inevitably prompts the question, “Did you really make that yourself?” And yes, you absolutely did.

This pattern is also excellent for building skills. If you have been wanting to try cable knitting but felt intimidated by complex projects, a small square is the ideal learning environment. Mistakes are easy to spot and correct, the time investment is low, and the reward is high. By the time you finish your first bunny cable square, you will feel confident enough to tackle cables in sweaters, socks, and beyond.

Materials You Will Need

One of the best things about this pattern is that it does not require any special or expensive materials. Here is what to gather before you cast on:

Yarn: Any worsted-weight yarn works beautifully for this pattern. A smooth, plied yarn will show off the cable definition best — look for something with minimal halo or texture so the bunny motif stands out clearly. Approximately 50 to 60 yards is enough for a single square. Cotton blends and wool blends both work well. If you are making squares for a baby blanket, opt for a machine-washable superwash wool or a soft cotton blend for easy care.

Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) straight or circular needles. If your gauge tends to run tight, go up to a US 8 (5mm). Always prioritize achieving the correct gauge over sticking rigidly to a needle size.

Cable Needle: A standard cable needle works fine. If you do not own one, a double-pointed needle or even a thick, blunt toothpick will do the job in a pinch.

Tapestry Needle: For weaving in ends at the end of the project.

Scissors: A small pair kept in your knitting bag.

Optional: Stitch markers to mark the boundaries of the cable panel and blocking pins if you plan to wet-block your finished square for a crisp, professional look.

Gauge

Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 7 needles.

Please take the time to swatch before beginning the main project, especially if you plan to join multiple squares together for a blanket. An off-gauge square will throw off your entire layout and make seaming frustrating. Wet-blocking your swatch before measuring will give you the most accurate reading of your true gauge.

The finished square measures approximately 6 inches by 6 inches (15 cm by 15 cm) after blocking.

Abbreviations and Techniques

Here is a quick reference guide to all the abbreviations used in this pattern:

CO — Cast on
BO — Bind off
k — Knit
p — Purl
k2tog — Knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
ssk — Slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
C4B — Cable 4 Back: slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold at back, knit 2, then knit 2 from cable needle
C4F — Cable 4 Front: slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold at front, knit 2, then knit 2 from cable needle
T3B — Twist 3 Back: slip 1 stitch to cable needle and hold at back, knit 2, then purl 1 from cable needle
T3F — Twist 3 Front: slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold at front, purl 1, then knit 2 from cable needle
RS — Right side
WS — Wrong side
rep — Repeat
pm — Place marker
sm — Slip marker

If any of these techniques are new to you, do not worry. Cable stitches look more complicated than they are. The basic principle is always the same: you temporarily remove some stitches from your main needle, hold them either at the front or back of the work, knit the next stitches on the needle, and then knit the held stitches. The direction you hold them (front or back) determines which way the cable twists.

Pattern Notes

This square is worked flat, back and forth in rows. The right side features the bunny cable motif, and the wrong side rows are mostly purled to maintain the stockinette fabric behind the cables.

The border of the square is worked in seed stitch to prevent curling and to frame the design neatly. Seed stitch also adds a pleasant textural contrast against the smoother cable panel.

The bunny motif is created using a combination of cables for the body and ears, with simple decreases shaping the head. It sits centered on the square against a reverse stockinette background (purl stitches on the right side), which makes the knit cables pop forward visually.

Read through the entire pattern once before beginning. This will help you understand how the motif comes together and prevent any surprises mid-project.

The Pattern

Cast On

Using your chosen yarn and US 7 needles, CO 30 stitches.

Border Setup — Rows 1 through 4:

Row 1 (RS): (k1, p1) across all 30 stitches.
Row 2 (WS): (p1, k1) across all 30 stitches.
Row 3 (RS): (k1, p1) across all 30 stitches.
Row 4 (WS): (p1, k1) across all 30 stitches.

These four rows establish the seed stitch border at the bottom of the square.

Main Body — Begin Bunny Cable Panel:

From this point forward, the outer 3 stitches on each side are maintained in seed stitch as a side border, and the central 24 stitches carry the cable motif. Place markers after stitch 3 and before stitch 28 if you find it helpful.

Row 5 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), pm, p4, k4, p8, k4, p4, pm, (k1, p1, k1).
Row 6 (WS): (p1, k1, p1), sm, k4, p4, k8, p4, k4, sm, (p1, k1, p1).
Row 7 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p4, C4B, p8, C4F, p4, sm, (k1, p1, k1).
Row 8 (WS): Repeat Row 6.
Row 9 (RS): Repeat Row 5.
Row 10 (WS): Repeat Row 6.

These first six rows of the main panel establish the two ear cables. They sit symmetrically on either side and will begin to lean inward as you continue.

Row 11 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p3, T3B, T3F, p6, T3B, T3F, p3, sm, (k1, p1, k1).
Row 12 (WS): (p1, k1, p1), sm, k3, p2, k1, p2, k6, p2, k1, p2, k3, sm, (p1, k1, p1).
Row 13 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p2, T3B, p1, T3F, p4, T3B, p1, T3F, p2, sm, (k1, p1, k1).
Row 14 (WS): (p1, k1, p1), sm, k2, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k2, sm, (p1, k1, p1).

The ears are now fully formed and the two cable pairs are angling toward the center, beginning to form the bunny’s head.

Row 15 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, C4B, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, sm, (k1, p1, k1).

Wait — for clarity, let us restate row 15 in plain language: maintain your seed border, then work the left ear cables straight, work across the center body cable (using C4B to cross the four central stitches), then work the right ear cables straight. This row begins to connect the ears to the body mass.

Row 16 (WS): Work all knit stitches as purl and all purl stitches as knit across the cable panel, maintaining seed stitch borders.
Row 17 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p2, T3F, p2, T3F, C4B, T3B, p2, T3B, p2, sm, (k1, p1, k1).
Row 18 (WS): Maintain established pattern, keeping seed borders.
Row 19 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p3, T3F, p2, k4, p2, T3B, p3, sm, (k1, p1, k1).

By row 19, the body of the bunny is becoming clearly defined. The four central knit stitches form the core of the body, and the cables framing them suggest the rounded sides of the bunny silhouette.

Row 20 (WS): (p1, k1, p1), sm, k4, p2, k4, p4, k4, p2, k4, sm, (p1, k1, p1).
Row 21 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p4, k2, p3, C4F, p3, k2, p4, sm, (k1, p1, k1).
Row 22 (WS): Repeat Row 20 structure, adjusting for stitch positions.
Row 23 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p4, T3F, p2, k4, p2, T3B, p4, sm, (k1, p1, k1).
Row 24 (WS): (p1, k1, p1), sm, k5, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k5, sm, (p1, k1, p1).
Row 25 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p5, T3F, C4B, T3B, p5, sm, (k1, p1, k1).
Row 26 (WS): (p1, k1, p1), sm, k6, p8, k6, sm, (p1, k1, p1).
Row 27 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p6, C4F, C4B, p6, sm, (k1, p1, k1).
Row 28 (WS): Repeat Row 26.
Row 29 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p6, k8, p6, sm, (k1, p1, k1).
Row 30 (WS): Repeat Row 26.

The body is now at its fullest. Rows 26 through 30 represent the rounded tummy of the bunny, formed by those eight central knit stitches sitting on the purl background.

Row 31 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p6, ssk, k4, k2tog, p6, sm, (k1, p1, k1). — 28 sts inside markers.
Row 32 (WS): (p1, k1, p1), sm, k6, p6, k6, sm, (p1, k1, p1).
Row 33 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p6, ssk, k2, k2tog, p6, sm, (k1, p1, k1). — 26 sts inside markers.
Row 34 (WS): (p1, k1, p1), sm, k6, p4, k6, sm, (p1, k1, p1).
Row 35 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p6, C4F, p6, sm, (k1, p1, k1).
Row 36 (WS): Repeat Row 34.

The decreases in rows 31 and 33 taper the bunny body upward, creating the narrowing waist/neck area that transitions into the head.

Row 37 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p7, k4, p7, sm, (k1, p1, k1).
Row 38 (WS): (p1, k1, p1), sm, k7, p4, k7, sm, (p1, k1, p1).
Row 39 (RS): (k1, p1, k1), sm, p6, T3B, T3F, p6, sm, (k1, p1, k1).
Row 40 (WS): (p1, k1, p1), sm, k6, p2, k2, p2, k6, sm, (p1, k1, p1).

Top Border:

Remove markers.

Row 41 (RS): (k1, p1) across all stitches.
Row 42 (WS): (p1, k1) across all stitches.
Row 43 (RS): (k1, p1) across all stitches.
Row 44 (WS): (p1, k1) across all stitches.

Bind off all stitches loosely in pattern on row 45 using a stretchy bind-off if desired. The Russian bind-off or Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off both work beautifully here.

Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle. Block the finished square by soaking it in cool water, gently pressing out excess moisture in a towel, and pinning it to your blocking mat in a neat square. Allow to dry completely before removing pins.

Finishing and Blocking Tips

Blocking makes an enormous difference in cable knitting. The cables will open up, the seed stitch borders will lie flat, and the bunny silhouette will become much more defined. Even if you are using an acrylic yarn, wet-blocking or steam-blocking will improve the finished appearance significantly.

For a crisp, even square, use blocking pins or blocking wires to hold the edges straight while drying. If you are making multiple squares to sew together, block them all to the same dimensions before