Mitred Granny Square Blanket – Free Pattern

There is something deeply satisfying about a project that looks far more complicated than it actually is. The Mitred Granny Square Blanket is exactly that kind of project. At first glance, the geometric precision of the joined squares, the crisp diagonal lines running through each block, and the overall sense of intentional design make it look like something you might find in a high-end home décor shop. Look a little closer, though, and you will find a pattern that is entirely approachable, endlessly customizable, and perfectly suited to crocheters of all skill levels who want to create something genuinely beautiful.

Whether you are a seasoned maker looking for your next cozy project or a confident beginner ready to level up from basic granny squares, this pattern is for you. Pull up a chair, grab your favorite yarn, and let’s walk through everything you need to know.

What Is a Mitred Granny Square?

Before diving into the pattern itself, it helps to understand what makes a mitred granny square different from a traditional one. A classic granny square is worked in rounds from the center outward, building up a series of cluster stitches around a central ring. The mitred version, by contrast, works with the concept of a diagonal centerline. The word “mitred” (also spelled “mitered”) comes from the world of woodworking and tailoring, where it describes a joint or seam cut at a 45-degree angle.

In crochet, a mitred square uses strategic increases and decreases to create that clean diagonal line across the middle of each block. The result is a square that appears to be made of two triangles stitched together, giving the finished blanket a modern, structured look that sits somewhere between a traditional heirloom piece and a contemporary geometric design.

The mitred construction also makes joining incredibly satisfying. Because each square has a strong visual axis, arranging them in different orientations creates entirely different overall patterns. You can achieve a pinwheel effect, a herringbone look, a diamond grid, or a simple two-tone checkerboard just by rotating your squares before joining. This versatility is one of the biggest reasons makers keep coming back to this style again and again.

Materials You Will Need

One of the best things about this blanket is that it does not require any specialist equipment. If you have been crocheting for a while, you likely have everything you need already.

Yarn: This pattern works beautifully in any worsted weight yarn (category 4). A smooth yarn will show the stitch definition most clearly and make the diagonal centerline really pop. Cotton blends are lovely for a crisper finish, while a soft acrylic or wool blend will give you something with more drape and warmth. For a standard throw size blanket, plan on approximately 1,200 to 1,800 yards depending on your chosen dimensions and tension. For a full-size bed blanket you will want significantly more. If you are using multiple colors, divide your yardage accordingly.

Hook: A 5mm (H/8) crochet hook is recommended for worsted weight yarn, but always make a test square first and adjust your hook size to achieve a firm, even fabric that is not too stiff or too floppy.

Other supplies: A yarn needle for weaving in ends and joining squares, scissors, stitch markers if you find them helpful for keeping your place, and a tape measure or ruler to check your square dimensions.

Gauge: Each finished square should measure approximately 6 inches (15 cm) square after a light block. If your square is coming out larger, go down a hook size. If it is coming out smaller, go up a hook size.

Choosing Your Color Palette

The color choices you make will define the entire personality of your blanket, so it is worth spending a little time thinking about this before you cast on. Mitred granny squares are incredibly versatile when it comes to color, and there are several approaches worth considering.

A simple two-color palette of a light and a dark shade creates maximum graphic impact. Think crisp white and navy, warm cream and deep burgundy, or sage green and charcoal grey. This high-contrast approach makes the diagonal lines read clearly and gives the finished piece a bold, modern feel.

For something softer and more complex, try a gradient palette. Choose a family of colors that moves from light to dark or through the color spectrum, assigning different shades to different squares or different sections of each square. The final blanket will have a painterly, ombre quality that feels luxurious without requiring any additional complexity in the making.

If you love a more scrappy, eclectic aesthetic, a stash-buster approach works wonderfully here. Because each square is a self-contained unit, you can use a different color combination for every single one and the mitred construction will still hold the whole thing together visually. This is a fantastic use for yarn leftovers and a great way to create something with a unique, one-of-a-kind character.

For this free pattern, we will work each square in two colors, which we will call Color A and Color B. Color A forms one half of the square and Color B forms the other, meeting along the diagonal centerline.

The Free Pattern: Mitred Granny Square

Abbreviations used:

ch = chain, sl st = slip stitch, sc = single crochet, hdc = half double crochet, dc = double crochet, dc2tog = double crochet two together (decrease), sp = space, rep = repeat, sk = skip

Foundation Chain

With Color A, ch 32. This gives you enough length to work a square approximately 6 inches across. If you want larger squares, add chains in multiples of 2 and adjust your yarn quantities accordingly.

Row 1 (Right Side): Starting in the 4th ch from the hook (counts as first dc), dc in each ch across to the center two chains. Work a dc2tog over the center two chains (this creates the mitre point). Continue with dc in each remaining chain across. Turn. (You should have equal numbers of dc on each side of the center decrease.)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), dc in each stitch across to the two stitches before the center point. Work a dc2tog over those two stitches (this is your mitre decrease once again). Dc in each remaining stitch to end. Turn.

Row 3 through end: Continue repeating Row 2, working dc in each stitch and always working a dc2tog at the center point on every row. As you work upward, the number of stitches on each row will decrease by two each time (one stitch lost on each side of the center decrease).

At the end of each row, the two sides of your square should always be equal in length. If they are not, check that you have been working your decrease consistently at the center point.

Joining Color B: When you have completed approximately half your rows in Color A and the square has taken on its triangle shape, you can join Color B for the second half. Some makers prefer to work the entire square in Color A first and add Color B as a contrast border or join it in a separate piece. For a true split-color mitred square, however, you join Color B by picking it up at one edge of your work and working down from the foundation chain edge in the opposite direction. This technique gives you the two-triangle effect with both colors meeting precisely at the center diagonal.

Alternatively, you can achieve the same look by working two separate triangles and joining them along their hypotenuse (the diagonal edge) using a flat slip stitch join or a joining single crochet. This method is slightly easier for beginners and gives an equally clean finish.

Finishing the Square: Fasten off and weave in all ends securely. Block your finished square gently by misting with water or wet-blocking, then pinning to shape on a foam mat. Allow to dry completely before joining. Blocking makes an enormous difference to the neatness and consistency of your squares and is especially worthwhile when you are making multiple blocks for a blanket.

Working the Full Blanket

Once you have made your first square and are happy with the size and tension, it is time to plan your blanket dimensions. Here are some approximate size guides to help you plan:

A baby blanket or lap blanket (approximately 30 by 36 inches) will require roughly 30 squares arranged in 5 columns and 6 rows. A generous throw (approximately 48 by 60 inches) will need around 80 squares in an 8 by 10 arrangement. A large bed blanket or bedspread can require 150 squares or more, depending on how big you make each individual block.

Make all your squares before you start joining. This may feel counterintuitive if you are excited to see the blanket come together, but having all your blocks finished and blocked before you join allows you to lay them out, experiment with different orientations and color arrangements, and make any adjustments before you commit to joining. Take a photo of your final layout so you can refer back to it as you join.

Joining the Squares

There are several ways to join crochet squares and each gives a slightly different look. Here are the most popular options for this blanket.

The flat slip stitch join is worked with right sides facing together. Insert your hook through the edge stitches of both squares simultaneously and work a slip stitch through both layers. This creates a subtle ridge on the wrong side of the work and an almost invisible join on the right side, which is ideal if you want the squares to be the main visual focus.

The join as you go (JAYG) method attaches each new square to the existing work while you are still crocheting the border of the new square. This avoids a separate joining step entirely and can make a large project feel more manageable, since the assembly happens progressively rather than all at once at the end.

The surface crochet join or decorative join works a visible line of stitches along the join line, often in a contrast color. This can become a design feature in itself, adding a grid-like framework that highlights the geometric structure of the layout. This approach works particularly well if you have used a scrappy, multicolored palette and want to unify the squares visually.

Whichever method you choose, work consistently across all joins to ensure the blanket lies flat and the squares remain evenly spaced.

Border Options

A finished border is what transforms a collection of joined squares into a truly polished blanket. There are many directions you can take the border, from something very simple to something quite elaborate.

For a clean, minimal finish, one or two rounds of single crochet in a solid color works beautifully. Work an even number of stitches around the entire perimeter, working three single crochets into each corner to keep the corners square and flat. If the blanket has a slight tendency to ruffle, you can work a final round of reverse single crochet (also known as the crab stitch) to firm up the edge.

For something with a little more personality, a shell border or a simple fan stitch border adds texture and movement without overwhelming the geometric design of the squares. Work the foundation round in single crochet first to establish an even stitch count, then work your decorative round over the top.

A picot border, where small three-chain loops are worked at regular intervals, adds a delicate, lacy quality that suits blankets made in lighter, pastel colors particularly well.

Tips for Success

There are a few things that can make a real difference to how smoothly this project comes together and how much you enjoy the making process.

Always, always make a gauge square before you start the full project. It only takes a few minutes and it will save you from the frustration of discovering that your blanket is significantly larger or smaller than you intended after you have already made dozens of squares.

Keep a consistent tension throughout the project. If you are picking the work up and putting it down over a period of weeks or months, your tension can shift slightly depending on your mood, how relaxed you are, and how much time you have. If you notice a difference between older and newer squares, try to identify what has changed and adjust accordingly.

Weave in ends as you go rather than saving them all for the end. With a large blanket made of many individual squares, the end-weaving can feel overwhelming if you face it all at once. Tackling each square as soon as it is finished keeps the pile of loose ends manageable and makes the final finishing stage much quicker.

Label your yarn cakes or balls with the color name and dye lot number before you start, and try to buy all the yarn you need in one go. Dye lots can vary between batches, and if you run out of a color mid-project and have to buy more, you may end up with a noticeable difference in shade in one area of your blanket.

Caring for Your Finished Blanket

Once your blanket is finished, give it one final block to even out any inconsistencies in the squares and to relax the fabric beautifully. Care instructions will depend on the yarn you have chosen, so always refer to the yarn label. Most acrylic and acrylic-blend yarns can be machine washed on a gentle cycle and laid flat to dry. Pure wools and wool blends should generally be hand washed in cool water and laid flat to dry to prevent shrinkage or felting. Cotton blankets are typically very robust and can often be machine washed and even dried on a low setting.

Store your finished blanket folded loosely rather than tightly compressed, and if you are storing it for a longer period, pop a cedar block nearby to discourage moths if you have used natural fibers.

A Project Worth Making

The Mitred Granny Square Blanket is one of those projects that rewards you at every stage. Each individual square is quick enough to feel satisfying but complex enough to stay interesting. The joining stage lets you see the design come together block by block. And the finished blanket is something genuinely special — the kind of piece that gets draped over a sofa arm and admired by everyone who visits.

It is also a project that scales beautifully. Make a small version as a baby gift, a medium throw for your living room, or a full-size blanket for a bed you want to make feel extra cozy. Change the color palette and you have an entirely different blanket each time.

We hope this free pattern gives you everything you need to cast on with confidence. Share your finished makes with us — we love seeing how different makers interpret this design and make it their own. Happy crocheting.