Create a Stunning Baby Blanket: Free Block-a-Week CAL Pattern

There is something genuinely magical about crocheting a baby blanket from scratch. The repetitive rhythm of the hook, the soft weight of yarn between your fingers, and the knowledge that every stitch is made with love — it all comes together into something that will be treasured for years. If you have been searching for a project that feels both achievable and exciting, a Crochet-Along (CAL) format might be exactly what you need. This free block-a-week baby blanket CAL pattern is designed to guide you through the process one manageable square at a time, so you never feel overwhelmed, and you always have something to look forward to.

Whether you are a beginner who just learned your first chain stitch or an experienced crocheter looking for a fresh project to share with your online community, this pattern has something for everyone. Read on for everything you need to know — materials, gauge, stitch explanations, block-by-block instructions, and tips for joining and finishing your blanket beautifully.

What Is a CAL and Why Is It Perfect for a Baby Blanket?

A Crochet-Along, commonly shortened to CAL, is a community-driven event in which crocheters around the world work through the same pattern together, usually releasing one section at a time over a set period of weeks. The format was born from the popular concept of a knit-along (KAL) and has exploded in the fiber arts world because it transforms a solo craft into a shared experience.

For a baby blanket specifically, the CAL format is ideal for several reasons. First, baby blankets can feel like a long commitment when you look at the finished dimensions all at once. Breaking the project into individual blocks — one released each week — keeps motivation high and progress visible. Second, the block-by-block approach means you can easily customize the finished blanket by rearranging squares, swapping color placement, or even skipping a block you find too advanced and substituting one you love. Third, if you are making this blanket as a gift, the weekly pace keeps you on schedule without burning out.

This CAL runs for eight weeks, with one block released each week. By the end of week eight, you will have all the pieces you need to assemble a blanket that measures approximately 36 by 36 inches when blocked — a perfect size for a crib or a stroller.

Materials You Will Need

Before you dive in, gather your supplies so you are ready to cast on the moment week one begins.

Yarn: Choose a worsted weight (size 4) yarn labeled as machine-washable. Baby items need to be laundered frequently, and a washable yarn ensures the blanket stays soft and beautiful after countless cycles through the washing machine. Some wonderful options include Lion Brand Pound of Love, Paintbox Yarns Simply DK (held double), Red Heart Soft, or Cascade 220 Superwash. For a classic look, choose three coordinating colors — a main color (MC), a contrasting color (CC1), and a second contrast (CC2). You will need approximately 800 yards of MC and 300 yards each of CC1 and CC2, for a total of roughly 1,400 yards.

Hook: A size 5.0 mm (H/8) crochet hook works beautifully with worsted weight yarn. If you tend to crochet tightly, move up to a 5.5 mm hook. If your tension runs loose, try a 4.5 mm hook.

Notions: You will also need a yarn needle for weaving in ends and seaming, scissors, stitch markers, and a spray bottle with water plus blocking mats for finishing.

Gauge

Gauge matters more than you might think in a modular project like this. If your blocks are significantly larger or smaller than the pattern specifies, they will not assemble neatly into a square blanket.

Work a gauge swatch before you begin: chain 16, then work single crochet back and forth for 16 rows. Your swatch should measure approximately 4 inches by 4 inches after a light block. If you are getting fewer stitches per inch (meaning your swatch is too big), go down a hook size. If you are getting more stitches per inch (swatch too small), go up a hook size.

Each finished block in this pattern should measure 9 inches by 9 inches after blocking. The completed blanket, assembled in a four-by-four grid, will measure approximately 36 by 36 inches.

Stitch Abbreviations

Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used:

ch — chain, sl st — slip stitch, sc — single crochet, hdc — half double crochet, dc — double crochet, tr — treble crochet, sk — skip, sp — space, st(s) — stitch(es), RS — right side, WS — wrong side, rep — repeat, MC — main color, CC1 — contrasting color 1, CC2 — contrasting color 2.

Week One: The Classic Granny Square

The granny square is the heartbeat of crochet tradition. It is where so many crocheters began, and it remains one of the most versatile and satisfying blocks you can make. If you already know how to make a granny square, this is a great opportunity to refine your tension and experiment with your chosen color palette.

To begin, make a magic ring or chain 4 and join with a sl st to form a ring.

Round 1 (CC1): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into the ring, ch 2, (3 dc, ch 2) 3 times into the ring. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch 3. Fasten off. (4 clusters of 3 dc, 4 corner ch-2 spaces)

Round 2 (CC2): Join in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, work 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner sp, ch 1. Rep from * around, ending with 3 dc, ch 2 in the starting corner. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch 3. Fasten off.

Round 3 (MC): Join in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, work 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp (corner made), ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Rep from around. Join and fasten off.

Round 4 (MC): Join in any corner. Work corners as established, adding a ch-1 sp and cluster of 3 dc in each ch-1 sp along the sides. Join and fasten off.

Round 5 (CC1): Work a final border round the same way, working corners as established and filling in all ch-1 spaces with 3 dc clusters. Join and fasten off. Weave in ends. Block to 9 inches square.

Make 4 of this block. They will fill the four corner positions of your finished blanket.

Week Two: The Linen Stitch Block

The linen stitch (also called the moss stitch or granite stitch) creates a beautifully dense, woven-looking fabric that is soft and smooth — perfect for a baby’s delicate skin. It alternates single crochets and chain spaces in a way that produces a subtle texture without any complicated maneuvers.

With MC, chain 31.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, ch 1, sk 1 ch, sc in next ch. Rep from across. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp. Rep from across, ending with sc in last st. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until the block measures 9 inches, then fasten off and weave in ends. Block to 9 by 9 inches.

This block works beautifully as a solid-color square using your MC, but you can also switch colors every two rows for a subtle striped effect. Make 4 of this block.

Week Three: The C2C (Corner to Corner) Block

If you have never tried the corner-to-corner technique, prepare to fall in love. C2C builds diagonally from one corner to the opposite corner using small clusters of chains and double crochets. The result is a neat, slightly ridged diagonal texture.

Each C2C “pixel” is worked as follows: Ch 6, sl st in the 4th ch from hook to form a small loop, work 3 dc in that loop to complete a “box.” Each new box joins to the previous one by working a sl st through the ch-3 loop of the previous box and then working the new ch-3 loop and 3 dc.

For a 9-inch block at worsted weight with a 5.0 mm hook, you will typically work up to 9 boxes across the center row and then decrease back down. Follow the standard C2C increase and decrease instructions, using MC for the main diagonal sections and CC1 for the center diagonal stripe if you want to add visual interest. Make 4 of this block.

Week Four: The Shell Stitch Block

Shell stitches produce that classic fan-like texture seen in so many beloved crochet projects. They are easier than they look and create a beautiful rhythm once you settle into the pattern.

With CC1, chain 30 (or a multiple of 6 plus 3 for your gauge).

Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next ch, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, sk 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch (shell made). Rep from across, ending with sc in last ch. Turn.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, 2 dc in first sc (half shell at edge), sc in center dc of next shell, 5 dc in next sc. Rep from across, ending with 3 dc in turning ch sp. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc, 5 dc in next sc, sc in center dc of next shell. Rep from across. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the block measures 9 inches. Fasten off, weave in ends, and block. Make 4 of this block.

Week Five: The Bobble Block

Bobbles add a gorgeous three-dimensional texture that babies will love to run their tiny fingers over. Each bobble is made by working five partially-completed double crochets into the same stitch and then pulling through all loops at once.

With CC2, work a foundation chain of 29.

Row 1 (WS): Sc across. Turn.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, bobble in next st, sc in next 3 sts. Rep from to last 3 sts, bobble in next st, sc in last 2. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc across. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first 4 sts, bobble in next st, sc in next 3 sts. Rep from to last st, sc in last st. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc across. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2 through 5 until the block measures 9 inches. Fasten off, weave in ends, and block. Make 4 of this block.

Week Six: The Basketweave Block

The basketweave stitch mimics the look of woven material and is worked using front-post and back-post double crochets. These are simply double crochets worked around the post of the stitch below rather than through the top loops — and the result is a richly textured, padded fabric that is thick enough to keep a baby warm.

With MC, chain 31.

Row 1: Dc across. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, work 4 FPdc (front-post dc) around next 4 sts, work 4 BPdc (back-post dc) around next 4 sts. Rep from across. Turn.

Row 3: Rep Row 2, but work BPdc where you previously worked FPdc and vice versa to create the woven effect.

Rows 4 and 5: Rep Row 2.

Rows 6 and 7: Rep Row 3.

Continue alternating in this pattern until the block measures 9 inches. Fasten off, weave in ends, and block. Make 4 of this block.

Week Seven: The Flower Motif Block

This is the most intricate block of the CAL, and it is worth every extra moment you invest. A simple dimensional flower is crocheted separately and then appliquéd onto a solid background square, giving the blanket one truly show-stopping panel.

For the background, work a flat square of sc rows in MC until the piece measures 9 by 9 inches.

For the flower, use CC1 to make a magic ring. Round 1: Ch 1, work 8 sc into the ring. Join. Round 2: (Ch 3, sl st in next sc) 8 times to create 8 small petal loops. Round 3: For fuller petals, work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) into each ch-3 loop around. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Use CC2 to add a French knot or small sc cluster at the center for a pop of contrast.

Position the flower in the center of your background square and whipstitch it in place using the tail. Weave in all ends. Block gently to avoid flattening the dimensional petals. Make 4 of this block.

Week Eight: The Striped Border Block

For the final block, you will work a simple but striking striped square. This one alternates your three colors in two-row stripes of hdc, creating a cheerful, graphic block that ties your color palette together.

Chain 29 with MC.

Row 1: Hdc across. Turn.

Rows 1 and 2: MC. Rows 3 and 4: CC1. Rows 5 and 6: CC2. Repeat this sequence until the block measures 9 inches. Fasten off, weave in ends, and block. Make 4 of this block.

Assembling Your Blanket

You now have 32 blocks in eight different styles — four of each. Lay them out on a flat surface and arrange them in a pattern you love. A good approach is to distribute the more textured blocks (bobbles, basketweave, flower) so they are spread across the blanket rather than clustered together. Alternate light and dark color-dominant blocks for a balanced look.

To join, use the flat slip stitch join: hold two blocks with wrong sides together and, working through both thicknesses, slip stitch along one edge. This creates a slightly raised seam on the right side that looks intentional and neat. Alternatively, use the join-as-you-go method or a simple whipstitch if you prefer an invisible seam.

Join blocks into four rows of four, then seam the rows together.

Final Border

A unified border is what takes a collection of blocks and transforms it into a polished blanket. With MC and RS facing, join yarn at any corner.

Round 1: Sc evenly around the entire blanket, working 3 sc in each corner. Join with sl st.

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in each sc around, working (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each corner. Join with sl st.

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc around, working 3 sc in each corner ch-2 sp. Join with sl st. Fasten off.

For a scalloped finish, add one more round: (sl st, ch 3, 3 dc, sl st) in every 4th st around. Fasten off and weave in all remaining ends.

Blocking Your Finished Blanket

Blocking is the final step that elevates handmade crochet into something that looks truly professional. Wet block your finished blanket by soaking it in cool water for 20 minutes, then gently pressing out excess water in a towel (never wring). Lay it flat on blocking mats, pin the corners and edges into square, and allow it to dry completely — usually 24 to 48 hours. The transformation is remarkable: stitches even out, blocks line up, and the fabric blooms into its full softness.

Care Instructions for the Finished Blanket

Attach a small note to your gift that explains