Butterfly Bedspread Filet Crochet Pattern: Complete Instructions and Chart

Few things in the world of textile arts carry the timeless beauty of a hand-crocheted butterfly bedspread. Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for your next showpiece project or an intermediate crafter ready to take on something magnificent, a filet crochet butterfly bedspread offers everything you could want: elegance, structure, portability, and the deep satisfaction of creating something truly heirloom-quality with your own hands.

This guide walks you through everything you need to know to complete a stunning butterfly bedspread using the filet crochet technique. From understanding the basic principles of filet crochet to reading the chart, choosing the right thread, and finishing your piece beautifully, you will find complete instructions here. Grab your hook, pull up a comfortable chair, and let’s get started.

What Is Filet Crochet?

Filet crochet is a technique that creates images, patterns, and designs by alternating filled squares and open squares (called mesh) on a grid. The open squares create the background, while the filled squares — worked with double crochet stitches — form the design itself. Because the pattern is built on a structured grid, it is incredibly well-suited to pictorial designs like butterflies, flowers, and geometric motifs.

Unlike other crochet techniques that require complex stitch combinations, filet crochet relies on just a few stitches: chain stitches, double crochet stitches, and the ability to read a chart. This makes it approachable for intermediate crocheters while still producing results that look sophisticated and intricate.

A filet crochet bedspread takes this concept and scales it beautifully. By working in fine cotton thread, you create a fabric that is lightweight, breathable, and structurally delicate — everything you want in a summer coverlet or a decorative bedspread that lies across the foot of a bed.

Materials You Will Need

Before diving into the pattern itself, gather your materials so the project flows without interruption.

Thread: Use size 10 crochet cotton thread for a traditional, fine-weight bedspread. A single color — typically white, ecru, or a soft natural cotton — produces the most classic result. You will need approximately 8 to 12 balls of size 10 thread (400 yards per ball) depending on the final size of your project. For a full-size bedspread, estimate closer to 12 to 15 balls. Always buy more than you think you need and try to purchase all balls from the same dye lot to ensure color consistency.

Hook: A steel crochet hook in size 7 (1.65mm) pairs well with size 10 thread. However, hook size is ultimately a matter of gauge and personal tension. Always work a gauge swatch before beginning.

Gauge: The standard gauge for filet crochet worked in size 10 thread on a size 7 steel hook is approximately 4 mesh squares per inch and 4 rows per inch. Your actual gauge should produce a fabric that is neither too stiff nor too loose — it should drape softly when held up and show the open mesh squares clearly without distortion.

Additional supplies: You will need a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, rust-proof straight pins and a blocking board or clean towels for wet blocking, a ruler or measuring tape, and scissors.

Understanding the Filet Crochet Chart

The butterfly bedspread pattern is worked from a chart, which is a grid of squares. Each square represents one mesh unit of the pattern. There are two types of squares you will encounter.

An open square, or open mesh, is represented by an empty square on the chart. To crochet an open mesh, you work: double crochet in the next stitch, chain 2, skip 2 stitches, double crochet in the next stitch.

A filled square, or block, is represented by a filled or shaded square on the chart. To crochet a filled block, you work: double crochet in each of the next 4 stitches (or double crochet, double crochet, double crochet, double crochet into the spaces if working across a mesh from the previous row).

Reading the chart is straightforward once you understand the principle. Start from the bottom-right corner of the chart and read right to left for odd-numbered rows (right side rows). Turn your work and read left to right for even-numbered rows (wrong side rows). Each square on the chart corresponds to one mesh unit as you work across.

The butterfly design in this pattern creates a central repeat motif of a butterfly with spread wings. The body of the butterfly is formed by a vertical column of filled blocks, while the wings extend outward in sweeping curves made from alternating filled and open squares that create the illusion of wing shape and detail.

The Butterfly Motif Chart

The butterfly motif is worked over a grid of 30 squares wide by 28 rows tall for a single butterfly repeat. Here is a text-based representation of the chart. An “O” represents an open mesh, and an “X” represents a filled block.

Rows 1–4: All open mesh across.

Row 5: O O O O O O O O O O O O O O X X O O O O O O O O O O O O O O

Row 6: O O O O O O O O O O O O O X X X X O O O O O O O O O O O O O

Row 7: O O O O O O O O O O O O X X X X X X O O O O O O O O O O O O

Row 8: O O O O O O O O O O X X X X X X X X X X O O O O O O O O O O

Row 9: O O O O O O O O X X X O O O O O O X X X X O O O O O O O O O

Row 10: O O O O O O X X X O O O O O O O O O X X X O O O O O O O O O

Row 11: O O O O X X X O O O O O O O O O O O O X X X O O O O O O O O

Row 12: O O X X X O O O O O O O X X O O X X O O O X X O O O O O O O

Row 13: O X X X O O O O O O X X X X X X X X X X O O X X O O O O O O

Row 14: X X X O O O O O X X X X X X X X X X X X X X O X X O O O O O

Row 15: X X O O O O O X X O O O X X X X X X O O X X X O X O O O O O

Row 16: X X O O O O X X O O O O O X X X X O O O O X X O X X O O O O

Row 17: X X O O O O X X O O O O O X X X X O O O O X X O X X O O O O

Row 18: X X O O O O O X X O O O X X X X X X O O X X X O X O O O O O

Row 19: X X X O O O O O X X X X X X X X X X X X X X O X X O O O O O

Row 20: O X X X O O O O O O X X X X X X X X X X O O X X O O O O O O

Row 21: O O X X X O O O O O O O X X O O X X O O O X X O O O O O O O

Row 22: O O O O X X X O O O O O O O O O O O O X X X O O O O O O O O

Row 23: O O O O O O X X X O O O O O O O O O X X X O O O O O O O O O

Row 24: O O O O O O O O X X X O O O O O O X X X X O O O O O O O O O

Row 25: O O O O O O O O O O X X X X X X X X X X O O O O O O O O O O

Row 26: O O O O O O O O O O O O X X X X X X O O O O O O O O O O O O

Row 27: O O O O O O O O O O O O O X X X X O O O O O O O O O O O O O

Row 28: O O O O O O O O O O O O O O X X O O O O O O O O O O O O O O

Rows 29–32: All open mesh across (creating a border of background mesh between repeats).

This single butterfly motif can be repeated horizontally and vertically across the bedspread to create an all-over pattern. A typical twin-size bedspread might feature four columns and six rows of butterfly motifs, while a queen or king size would require wider and longer repetition.

Foundation Chain and Setup

To begin the bedspread, you need to calculate your starting chain based on the number of butterfly repeats you want across the width of the piece.

Each butterfly repeat is 30 squares wide. Add a border of at least 5 open mesh squares on each side. For a bedspread with four butterfly repeats across: 4 x 30 = 120 squares, plus 10 squares for borders = 130 squares total width.

For filet crochet, the starting chain formula is: (number of squares x 3) + 4. For 130 squares: (130 x 3) + 4 = 394 chains.

Foundation chain: Chain 394 (or adjust based on your chosen width).

Row 1 (right side): Double crochet in the 8th chain from hook (this creates your first open mesh). Chain 2, skip 2 chains, double crochet in next chain. Repeat the chain-2, skip-2, double crochet sequence across to the end of your foundation chain. Turn.

Row 2: Chain 5 (counts as double crochet, chain 2), turn. Skip the first mesh, double crochet in the next double crochet, continue in pattern across. Turn.

From here, you follow the chart, working each row according to the pattern of open mesh and filled blocks indicated.

Working Open Mesh and Filled Blocks

Open mesh: Double crochet in next stitch, chain 2, skip 2 stitches, double crochet in next stitch. This creates one open square.

Filled block from a previous open mesh: Double crochet in next stitch, double crochet in the chain-2 space (work 2 double crochets into the space), double crochet in the next stitch. This fills a previously open square.

Filled block from a previous filled block: Double crochet in each of the next 4 stitches.

Open mesh from a previous filled block: Double crochet in next stitch, chain 2, skip 2 stitches, double crochet in next stitch.

Open mesh from a previous open mesh: Double crochet in next stitch, chain 2, skip the chain-2 space, double crochet in next stitch.

Turning chain: At the end of every row, chain 5 and turn. This chain-5 counts as your first double crochet plus the chain-2 of the first open mesh on the next row, or as your first double crochet when the first square of the next row is a filled block (in which case you chain 3 to turn instead of 5, and then double crochet in the next stitch to complete the first filled block).

Tips for Working a Large Filet Project

A bedspread is a long-term project, and keeping your work organized and consistent over many sessions requires a few practical strategies.

Use a magnetic chart board or a printed copy of your chart where you can mark off each completed row. Losing your place in a large filet chart is frustrating, and marking your progress as you go prevents mistakes.

Work in good light. Fine thread and small hook sizes demand clear visibility. Natural daylight is ideal, and a daylight-balanced LED lamp is the next best option for evening sessions.

Store your work loosely rolled inside a cotton pillowcase to protect it from dirt, snagging, and exposure to light, which can yellow cotton thread over time.

Take breaks and stretch your hands and wrists regularly. Large thread crochet projects require sustained tension and repetitive motion. Hand stretches and short breaks every 30 to 45 minutes help prevent strain.

Check your gauge every 10 to 15 rows. If your work is tightening up (as sometimes happens when we find our rhythm and unconsciously increase tension), switch to a slightly larger hook size to compensate.

Joining New Thread

When you reach the end of a ball of thread, join your new thread as invisibly as possible. The best method for filet crochet is the Russian join, which eliminates the need to weave in ends later. Alternatively, join new thread in the last pull-through of the stitch before you run out, leaving a 6-inch tail on each end, and weave those ends securely in several directions using your tapestry needle once the piece is complete.

Never join new thread in the middle of a filled block if you can help it. Try to plan your joins so they occur at the end of a row or at a point in the design where the thread transition will be less noticeable.

Finishing the Bedspread

Once all rows are complete, fasten off your thread securely and weave in any remaining ends. Give the ends a tiny knot as well as weaving them through multiple directions for security — cotton thread does not grip itself as firmly as wool, so extra weaving is worthwhile.

Blocking transforms a filet crochet bedspread from something that looks finished to something that looks extraordinary. To wet block your bedspread, soak the entire piece in cool water for 20 to 30 minutes until fully saturated. Gently squeeze out the excess water without wringing or twisting. Lay the bedspread flat on a clean surface (a large blocking mat, a bed covered with towels, or even a clean carpet section) and pin the edges to the correct dimensions using rust-proof pins. Gently stretch the fabric to open the mesh squares and align the butterfly motifs so they appear symmetrical and clearly defined.

Leave the piece to dry completely, which may take 24 to 48 hours depending on your environment. Once dry, remove the pins. The difference before and after blocking is remarkable — the open mesh squares become crisp, the butterfly wings spread beautifully, and the entire fabric gains a graceful drape.

Adding an Edging

A simple border elevates the finished look significantly. A classic shell border suits the butterfly motif beautifully. To add it, join thread at any corner, work a row of single crochet evenly around the entire perimeter (picking up approximately 3 stitches per mesh along the sides and 1 stitch per row end along the top and bottom), then work a second round as follows: skip 2 stitches, 5 double crochets in the next stitch (shell made), skip 2 stitches, slip stitch in the next stitch. Repeat around.

For a more elaborate edging, a picot border or a deep scallop lace edging in a matching thread adds an additional 1 to 2 inches of delicate detail around the entire piece.

Caring for Your Butterfly Bedspread

Cotton thread bedspreads are surprisingly easy to care for. Machine wash on a gentle cycle in cool water using a mild detergent. Lay flat or hang to dry rather than using a dryer, which can cause cotton thread items to shrink or become stiff. If the bedspread needs to be stored for any length of time, fold it loosely (not tightly pressed), wrap it in acid-free tissue paper, and keep it away from direct sunlight and humidity.

Why a Butterfly Bedspread Makes a Perfect Heirloom Project

There is something uniquely satisfying about creating a textile that will outlast you. A filet crochet butterfly bedspread, properly finished and cared for, can remain beautiful for decades and even generations. The butterfly motif carries natural symbolism — transformation, freedom, and delicate beauty — that makes it a meaningful gift for weddings, milestone birthdays, new homes, and baby showers alike.

Beyond the sentiment, a crocheted butterfly bedspread is simply a beautiful object to live with. Draped over a bed, it adds texture and craftsmanship that no commercially manufactured textile can replicate. Every open square, every filled block, and every graceful wing curve was placed there deliberately by hand. That presence — that evidence of sustained human attention and care — is what makes handmade textiles so enduring.

Working through a project of this scale also teaches patience