Autumn Lattice Throw Knitting Pattern
There is something deeply satisfying about knitting a throw blanket as the days grow shorter and the air takes on that unmistakable crispness that means autumn has finally arrived. The Autumn Lattice Throw is one of those projects that feels like the season itself — warm, textured, and quietly beautiful in the way that only handmade things can be. Whether you are curling up with it on the couch, draping it over an armchair, or gifting it to someone who needs a little extra warmth this year, this pattern is one you will come back to again and again.
This post walks you through everything you need to know to knit the Autumn Lattice Throw from start to finish. We will cover the materials, the stitch pattern, the full written instructions, and plenty of tips along the way to make sure your knitting experience is as smooth as possible. If you are a fan of texture knitting and love the look of woven lattice cables, this project is going to be a favourite.
Why You Will Love This Pattern
Before we dive into the yarn and needles, let me tell you a little about what makes this throw special. The Autumn Lattice Throw uses a simple but stunning lattice cable pattern that creates a woven, basket-weave-inspired texture across the entire blanket. It looks impressively complex, but once you have worked a few repeats, the rhythm becomes second nature and you will barely need to glance at the pattern.
The throw is worked flat on circular needles to accommodate the width. It is a generous lap-to-couch size, making it versatile enough for everyday use. The stitch pattern uses only knit stitches, purl stitches, and cable crosses, so if you are comfortable with basic cable knitting, you are absolutely ready for this project.
This is also a wonderful pattern for knitters who want to practise their cable work without committing to a complex garment. Blankets are forgiving — there are no seams, no shaping, and no fitting concerns. You just knit, row after row, and watch the lattice build up in front of you like something from an autumn dream.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials together before you cast on makes the whole process much more enjoyable. Here is what you need for the Autumn Lattice Throw.
Yarn: Approximately 1,400–1,600 yards of bulky weight yarn (weight 5 or 6). The throw shown here was made using a warm chestnut brown, but this pattern looks gorgeous in any earthy autumn tone — think burnt orange, deep burgundy, forest green, heathered grey, or creamy oatmeal. You want a yarn with good stitch definition so that the lattice cables really pop. Wool and wool-blend yarns tend to work beautifully for this, though a high-quality acrylic will give you a softer, more washable result.
Needles: US 10.5 (6.5 mm) circular needles, 32 or 40 inches long. The length of the cable matters here because you will be holding a large number of stitches at once. If you find the gauge is off, go up or down a needle size as needed.
Cable needle: One cable needle in a size that matches your working yarn. If you prefer to work cables without a cable needle once you get into the rhythm, that works perfectly well too.
Notions: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers to mark your pattern repeats (optional but helpful), scissors, and a measuring tape.
Gauge: Approximately 13 stitches and 18 rows over 4 inches in the lattice pattern after blocking. Always swatch! A throw this size uses a lot of yarn, and being off gauge can mean the difference between a snuggly lap blanket and something that barely covers your knees.
Finished Size: Approximately 44 inches wide by 54 inches long after blocking. You can easily adjust the size by adding or subtracting full pattern repeats in multiples of 8 stitches.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
Before we get into the pattern, let us go over the abbreviations you will encounter throughout. Keeping this list handy while you knit will save you from flipping back to the beginning every time something looks unfamiliar.
k — knit
p — purl
sl — slip stitch purlwise unless stated otherwise
cn — cable needle
C4F — Cable 4 Front: Slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in front of work, knit 2 stitches from left needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle
C4B — Cable 4 Back: Slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in back of work, knit 2 stitches from left needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle
T3F — Twist 3 Front: Slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in front, purl 1 stitch from left needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle
T3B — Twist 3 Back: Slip 1 stitch to cable needle and hold in back, knit 2 stitches from left needle, then purl 1 stitch from cable needle
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
rep — repeat
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
CO — cast on
BO — bind off
Pattern Notes
There are a few things worth reading before you cast on your very first stitch.
The lattice pattern is worked over a multiple of 8 stitches, plus a border of 6 stitches on each side. The side borders are worked in a simple 2×2 rib to keep the edges neat and prevent curling, which is especially important for a flat piece like a throw blanket.
The cable pattern has a 16-row repeat. This may sound like a lot to memorise, but you will find that by about the second or third repeat, your hands will know what they are doing before your brain catches up. Many knitters find it helpful to use a row counter or to keep a simple tally on paper as they work through each repeat.
Always check your tension occasionally as you knit. It is easy to tighten up when working cable rows and loosen when working plain rows, which can give the fabric an uneven look. Try to keep your tension consistent throughout, and blocking at the end will smooth out any minor inconsistencies beautifully.
If you are new to cables and find T3F and T3B a little tricky at first, practise them on a small swatch before starting the actual throw. There is nothing more frustrating than frogging several rows on a wide blanket because the twist cables went in the wrong direction.
The Pattern
Casting On
Using the long-tail cast on or your preferred stretchy method, cast on 146 stitches.
If you would like a narrower or wider throw, you can adjust the stitch count. The pattern repeat for the lattice section is 8 stitches. The border on each side uses 6 stitches. So your formula is: 12 (for both borders) + any multiple of 8 for the central lattice section.
For example, casting on 138 stitches gives you a slightly narrower throw, while 154 stitches gives you a slightly wider one.
Bottom Border
Work 10 rows in 2×2 rib as follows:
All rows: *K2, p2; rep from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
This ribbed border gives the bottom edge structure and a clean finished look without requiring any additional finishing steps.
Main Body — Lattice Pattern
The main body of the throw is worked in the Autumn Lattice stitch pattern. The first and last 6 stitches of every row form the side borders in 2×2 rib. The central 134 stitches work through the lattice cable chart.
Set-up for the main body:
Row 1 (RS): K2, p2, k2 (border), work Row 1 of Lattice Pattern across centre 134 stitches, k2, p2, k2 (border).
Row 2 (WS): K2, p2, k2 (border), work Row 2 of Lattice Pattern across centre 134 stitches, k2, p2, k2 (border).
Continue working border stitches as established on every row while working through the 16-row Lattice Pattern repeat in the centre.
Autumn Lattice Stitch Pattern (worked over a multiple of 8 sts)
Row 1 (RS): *K2, p4, k2; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 2 (WS): *P2, k4, p2; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 3 (RS): *T3B, p2, T3F; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 4 (WS): *K1, p2, k2, p2, k1; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 5 (RS): *P1, C4B, p1; rep from * to end — note that within each 8-stitch repeat the C4B is worked over stitches 2–5, then p1 finishes the repeat.
Row 6 (WS): *K1, p4, k1, p2; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 7 (RS): *T3F, p2, T3B; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 8 (WS): *P2, k4, p2; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 9 (RS): *K2, p4, k2; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 10 (WS): *P2, k4, p2; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 11 (RS): *C4F, p4; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 12 (WS): *K4, p4; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 13 (RS): *K2, T3F, T3B; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 14 (WS): *P4, k2, p2; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 15 (RS): *P2, C4B, p2; rep from * to end of centre section.
Row 16 (WS): *K2, p4, k2; rep from * to end of centre section.
Repeat Rows 1–16 until your throw measures approximately 50 inches from the cast-on edge, ending after a Row 8 or Row 16 of the pattern repeat for the neatest transition into the top border.
Top Border
Work 10 rows of 2×2 rib, matching the bottom border:
All rows: *K2, p2; rep from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
Bind off loosely in pattern on the final row. A loose bind-off is essential for a throw — binding off too tightly can pull the top edge in and make the blanket look puckered. If you tend to bind off tightly, try using a needle one or two sizes larger for the bind-off row only.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all ends with your tapestry needle, taking care to weave them in securely so they do not loosen with washing and use.
Blocking will absolutely transform your Autumn Lattice Throw. Even if it looks beautiful straight off the needles (and it will), blocking opens up the fabric, evens out the stitches, and allows the lattice pattern to really shine. This step is not optional — it is what takes a good knitted piece to a great one.
For wool or wool-blend yarns, wet blocking works best. Soak the throw in cool water for about 20–30 minutes until it is fully saturated, then gently squeeze out the water without wringing. Roll it in a clean towel and press firmly to remove excess moisture, then lay it flat on a blocking mat or clean carpet and pin it to your desired dimensions. Allow it to dry completely before unpinning — this can take 24 to 48 hours depending on your environment.
For acrylic yarns, you can steam block by holding a steam iron a few inches above the surface and letting the steam penetrate the fabric. Do not press the iron directly onto acrylic yarn or you will ruin it. Many knitters also use the “killing” technique for acrylic, which gives the fabric a soft, drapey quality — but this is irreversible, so do your research before trying it.
Yarn Substitution Tips
If you cannot find the exact yarn used in this project, do not worry. There are a few things to keep in mind when substituting.
Look for a yarn with similar fibre content to whatever you had in mind. Wool and wool blends give the best stitch definition for cable knitting. Alpaca blends are incredibly soft but can be a little slippery and may cause cables to look less defined. Acrylic yarns are widely available and machine-washable, which makes them ideal for throws that will get a lot of use.
Always match the weight. A bulky yarn (weight 5) or a super bulky (weight 6) worked on US 10.5 needles will give you the best results for this pattern. Going significantly heavier or lighter will change the drape, the size, and the overall look of the throw.
When in doubt, swatch. This advice appears in every knitting pattern ever written for a reason. It works.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make this throw smaller for a baby blanket?
Yes, absolutely. You can cast on fewer stitches (keeping in mind the 8-stitch multiple plus the 12 border stitches) and work fewer repeats in length. A baby blanket using this pattern would look absolutely gorgeous.
What if I have never done cables before?
This is a great first cable project. The cables used here are all basic four-stitch crosses, which are the most common type you will encounter in cable knitting. If you practise the C4F and C4B on a small swatch first, you will feel confident jumping into the full pattern.
How do I know if my gauge is right?
Cast on at least 30 stitches and work about 4 inches of the lattice pattern. Measure across 4 inches in the centre of your swatch (not the edges) and count the stitches. If you have more stitches than the pattern calls for, go up a needle size. If you have fewer, go down a needle size.
Can I use a straight needle instead of circular?
For this throw, circular needles are really the way to go. The number of stitches on the needle at any given time is too large for standard straight needles, and the weight of the project is much easier to manage on circular needles where the work rests in your lap rather than being held up by the needle tips.
A Few Final Thoughts
The Autumn Lattice Throw is one of those knitting projects that will follow you through a season. You will pick it up on rainy weekday evenings, carry it to weekend gatherings where you can sneak in a few rows, and feel a quiet pride every time the lattice grows a little taller on your needles. When it is finished and blocked and draped over your sofa, you will know you made something truly worth keeping.
Knitting is one of the most rewarding crafts you can practise, and a throw like this one is proof of what patience and a little yarn can create. I hope this pattern becomes a favourite in your project queue, and I cannot wait to see how yours turns out.
If you make the Autumn Lattice Throw, please share a photo! Tag me over on Instagram or leave a comment below — I absolutely love seeing your finished objects and hearing how the knitting went. Whether you stuck to traditional autumn tones or went with something completely unexpected, every version of this throw is a little piece of the season made by hand.
Happy knitting, friends.
