Which Blanket Stitch Would You Choose?

There is something quietly satisfying about a well-executed blanket stitch. Whether you are finishing the edge of a handmade quilt, embroidering a felt ornament, or reinforcing a buttonhole on a wool coat, this stitch has been a staple of needlework for centuries — and for very good reason. It is strong, decorative, and surprisingly versatile once you understand its many variations. But here is the question that every stitcher, beginner or experienced, eventually faces: which blanket stitch is actually the right one for what you are making?

This post is going to walk you through all the major variations of the blanket stitch, explain what makes each one special, and help you decide which version belongs on your next project. By the end, you will not just know what these stitches look like — you will understand why you would choose one over another, and how small changes in technique can dramatically shift the result.

A Little History Before We Begin

The blanket stitch did not earn its name arbitrarily. For generations, it was used almost exclusively to finish the raw edges of woolen blankets, preventing fraying and adding a neat border that was both functional and attractive. Before the era of overlocking machines and sergers, finishing raw fabric edges by hand was a necessary skill in every household.

Over time, needleworkers began to realize that the structure of the stitch — essentially a series of looped threads worked along an edge, with each loop anchoring the next — lent itself beautifully to purely decorative work as well. Embroiderers adopted it. Quilt makers refined it. Felt artists embraced it. And today, it exists in dozens of delightful variations that serve purposes far beyond blanket edging.

Understanding where it came from helps you appreciate why it is structured the way it is, and why each variation developed to solve a specific problem or create a specific effect.

The Classic Blanket Stitch

Let us start at the beginning. The classic blanket stitch, sometimes called the open blanket stitch, is worked along the edge of a fabric with evenly spaced vertical stitches that are looped at the bottom. Each stitch travels from the back of the fabric to the front, and before the needle is pulled through, the working thread is looped beneath the needle tip so that a horizontal bar forms along the very edge of the fabric.

The result is a row of neat, evenly spaced “L” shapes running along the edge, connected by a continuous bar of thread at the bottom. It is clean, it is classic, and it is often the first variation a new stitcher learns.

When would you choose this version? Choose the classic blanket stitch when you want a clean, professional-looking edge that does not draw too much attention to itself. It is ideal for finishing the edges of appliqué pieces, working around felt shapes in ornament or brooch making, hemming a baby blanket by hand, or edging a craft project where function and tidiness matter more than decorative flair. If you are stitching in a thread that closely matches your fabric, the effect will be subtle and refined. If you use a contrasting thread, the evenly spaced bars become a decorative feature without being overpowering.

The Whipped Blanket Stitch

Once you have your classic blanket stitch in place, you can immediately elevate it by adding a second pass with a whipping thread. This means taking a second thread — often in a contrasting color — and weaving it through the vertical bars of your completed blanket stitch without piercing the fabric at all.

The whipped blanket stitch creates a braided or twisted appearance along the edge. Depending on whether you whip from the same direction each time or alternate, you can achieve slightly different textures. Using two strongly contrasting colors makes this one of the most visually striking edge treatments in hand embroidery.

This variation is particularly popular in folk embroidery traditions, including certain styles of Scandinavian and Eastern European needlework, where bold color combinations are a signature feature. It is also a common choice for finishing felt bags and pouches, where the edge itself becomes part of the design. Choose the whipped blanket stitch when you want something that genuinely looks finished and intentional — when the edging is meant to be seen and admired, not just to serve a functional role.

The Buttonhole Stitch

Here is where many stitchers get confused, because the buttonhole stitch and the blanket stitch look almost identical on the page. The key difference is in the spacing and tension. While a blanket stitch is worked with slight gaps between each stitch, a buttonhole stitch is worked with no gap at all — each stitch sits directly beside the last, so that the vertical bars are packed closely together and form a dense, solid band along the edge.

This tighter structure is what makes it appropriate for actual buttonholes, where the stitching must reinforce the cut edge of fabric against the constant friction of a button passing through. The density of the stitching prevents the fabric from fraying even under repeated stress.

But the buttonhole stitch is not only for buttonholes. In surface embroidery, it is used to fill leaf shapes, petals, and other organic forms with smooth, directional texture. When worked in a circle, with the looped edge facing inward, it creates what is known as a closed buttonhole circle — a technique that appears frequently in crewelwork and Jacobean embroidery styles. Choose the buttonhole stitch when you need maximum durability at an edge, or when you want the dense, velvety texture it creates in a filled embroidery shape.

The Knotted Blanket Stitch

If you enjoy stitches with a bit of extra texture and personality, the knotted blanket stitch is worth learning. In this variation, you add a small knot — essentially a half-hitch — to each vertical bar before pulling the stitch through. The result is a row of tiny raised knots sitting along the top of each vertical bar, giving the edging a beaded or pearlized appearance.

This stitch takes a little more time and patience to execute consistently, because the knots need to be kept at the same position on each bar for the result to look intentional rather than accidental. But when it is done well, it is one of the most beautiful edge finishes you can create by hand.

The knotted blanket stitch appears frequently in traditional Hardanger embroidery from Norway, where precision and texture go hand in hand. It also works beautifully on thick felt or heavy wool, where the raised knots have room to stand out without being crushed by the fabric. Choose this stitch when you want a stitch that looks hand-crafted in the best possible sense — textured, deliberate, and rich.

The Crossed Blanket Stitch (or Double Blanket Stitch)

This variation involves working two rows of blanket stitches in opposite directions, so that the vertical bars cross each other and create a series of “X” shapes along the edge. It can also be achieved by working a single row and crossing each stitch with an additional diagonal thread before moving on to the next.

The crossed blanket stitch is immediately recognizable and creates a very different visual rhythm from the classic version. Instead of neat, parallel bars, you get a dynamic zigzag pattern that draws the eye along the length of the edge.

This stitch works especially well on wider edges and on projects where a more rustic or folk-art aesthetic is appropriate — think embroidered tote bags, hand-stitched book covers, fabric journal pages, or wearable textile art. Because the crossing threads provide additional stability, it is also a good choice for any edge that needs a little more reinforcement. Choose the crossed blanket stitch when you want your edging to be a bold design element, not a background detail.

The Closed Blanket Stitch (and Its Triangle Variation)

In the closed blanket stitch, pairs of vertical stitches are angled toward each other so that their tops meet, forming a series of triangles or tent shapes along the edge. Rather than standing parallel, each pair of stitches leans in to share a single point at the top, creating a chevron-like pattern.

The triangle variation takes this a step further by working three stitches that converge at a single top point, creating more pronounced pyramid shapes. Both versions give a highly decorative edge with a geometric, almost architectural quality.

These stitches are beautiful on projects with straight edges — the geometric regularity of the pattern is best appreciated when the line of stitching is straight or gently curved, rather than sharply angled. They appear frequently in crazy quilt embellishment, textile art samplers, and decorative borders on table linens or cushion covers. Choose the closed or triangle blanket stitch when you want a geometric border that feels bold and graphic without requiring any extra materials or tools.

The Long and Short Blanket Stitch

As the name suggests, this variation simply alternates the height of the vertical stitches — one tall, one short, one tall, one short — creating a rhythmic, castle-battlement silhouette along the top of the edging. It is one of the simplest variations to learn because it requires no change in technique, only in the length of each stitch.

Despite its simplicity, the effect is charming and distinctive. It works particularly well for children’s projects, holiday crafts, and any piece where you want a whimsical, handmade character. It is also a smart choice for embroiderers who are still developing consistency in their stitch spacing, because the alternating heights mean that small variations in the lengths are part of the design rather than mistakes.

The long and short blanket stitch is frequently used to edge felt Christmas ornaments, stuffed fabric animals, and appliqué shapes on children’s quilts. If you are teaching a younger person to embroider, this is a wonderful first variation to introduce after the basic stitch, because it immediately shows them that changing one small thing can create something that feels entirely new.

The Pinwheel or Circular Blanket Stitch

Rather than working along a straight or curved edge, the circular blanket stitch is worked in a ring, with all the vertical bars radiating outward from a central point. The result is a flowerlike medallion that can stand alone as a decorative motif or be combined with other stitches to build a larger design.

This is a technique that appears often in stumpwork and raised embroidery, where individual motifs are constructed separately and then applied to the main fabric. A small circular blanket stitch medallion can become the center of an embroidered flower, a decorative button cover, or a small brooch worked on felt.

The circular blanket stitch requires a little more planning than the linear versions, because you need to think about how many stitches will fit evenly around your circle before you begin — too few and the stitches will be widely spaced, too many and they will bunch. But once you get the count right, it creates one of the most satisfying and complete-looking motifs in the embroiderer’s repertoire.

Choosing the Right Thread and Fabric

No matter which variation you choose, the materials you use will have as much influence on the final result as the stitch itself. Here are a few general principles worth keeping in mind.

For classic and whipped blanket stitches worked as edge finishes, stranded cotton embroidery floss gives a smooth, shiny result with good coverage. Using all six strands gives a bolder line; using two or three strands gives something more delicate.

Pearl cotton (perle cotton) is a single twisted thread that cannot be separated into strands. It has a beautiful sheen and creates very clean, rounded loops — it is an excellent choice for the knotted blanket stitch and the buttonhole stitch because the twist gives each loop excellent definition.

Wool thread, whether crewel wool or tapestry wool, softens the appearance of any blanket stitch variation and gives a matte, fuzzy texture that suits projects with a folk art or rustic character. It is particularly beautiful on wool felt and heavy woolen fabric.

As for fabric, blanket stitches work on virtually anything — woven fabric, felt, knit fabric (with a stabilizer), leather (with an awl to pre-pierce the holes), and even paper. The main consideration is whether your fabric is stable enough to hold the tension of the stitch without puckering. For delicate or loosely woven fabrics, working with an embroidery hoop is always recommended.

A Few Tips for Consistent, Beautiful Stitching

Consistent spacing is the single most important factor in making any blanket stitch variation look polished. Before you begin, use a water-soluble fabric marker or a piece of masking tape to mark evenly spaced intervals along your edge. This is especially important for the closed, crossed, and triangle variations, where the geometric effect depends entirely on regularity.

Keep your thread tension consistent throughout. Too tight and the fabric will pucker; too loose and the loops will be sloppy and unstable. The correct tension is firm but relaxed — the thread should lie flat against the fabric without pulling it.

Start and end your thread by weaving it under a few stitches on the back of the work rather than knotting. This keeps the back tidy and prevents lumps from showing through on the front, which matters especially on lightweight or single-layer projects like felt ornaments or appliqué pieces.

Finally, do not rush. The blanket stitch is not a stitch that rewards speed. It rewards attention. Slow down, check your spacing, keep your loops even, and the result will speak for itself.

So, Which Would You Choose?

That depends entirely on what you are making and what you want the edging to say. If you want something clean and functional, the classic blanket stitch or the buttonhole stitch will serve you beautifully. If you want something that invites a second look — something that makes the edge of your work feel like a design feature — the whipped, knotted, or crossed variations are your friends. If you are making something for a child, or something that needs a touch of whimsy, the long and short variation is delightful and forgiving. And if you are building individual embroidery motifs, the circular variation opens up a whole world of possibilities.

The blanket stitch, in all its forms, is proof that some of the most enduring techniques in craft are enduring precisely because they are not rigid. They adapt. They evolve. They invite experimentation. And no matter which variation you choose, each one connects you to a long, unbroken line of stitchers who picked up a needle, looped a thread, and made something worth keeping.

Now the only question left is: which one will you try first?