Weekend Tote: Free Bag Knitting Pattern

There is something deeply satisfying about carrying a bag you made yourself. Every time you sling it over your shoulder, you get that quiet sense of accomplishment that only handmade things can give you. Today I am sharing a free knitting pattern for a roomy, sturdy weekend tote that works beautifully as a market bag, a beach bag, a project bag for your yarn stash, or an everyday carry-all. This pattern is written for knitters with some basic experience — you should be comfortable with casting on, knitting, purling, and doing a few simple decreases — but it is very approachable if you are an adventurous beginner who does not mind a little learning along the way.

Let’s talk about what makes this tote special before we dive in. The design is intentionally simple and classic. There are no fussy stitch patterns to memorize, no complicated shaping, and no seaming nightmares. The body of the bag is worked in a dense seed stitch that gives it beautiful texture while keeping the fabric tight enough that nothing falls through. The base is reinforced with a few rows of stockinette so the bag sits flat on a surface without tipping over. The straps are long enough to wear over the shoulder or carry in the crook of your arm, and they are knitted in an I-cord technique that makes them round, strong, and comfortable against your skin. This is a bag that will last for years if you use a sturdy cotton or linen yarn.

Materials You Will Need

Before you cast on, gather everything you need so you are not scrambling mid-project.

Yarn: You will need approximately 400 to 500 yards of a worsted-weight cotton, linen, or cotton-blend yarn. I love using 100% cotton for bags because it is washable, durable, and has just enough structure to hold the bag’s shape. Some great options include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK (held double), Cascade Ultra Pima, or any worsted-weight yarn you love. Avoid very stretchy yarn like a superwash merino for this project — you want something with low stretch so the bag holds its shape even when loaded up with heavy items.

Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) straight or circular needles. If you prefer to work flat on circular needles, a 32-inch or 40-inch circular works perfectly. You will also need a spare double-pointed needle or short straight needle in the same size for working the I-cord straps.

Notions: Stitch markers, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and optionally a bag base insert (a piece of stiff plastic or cardboard cut to size) if you want an extra-sturdy bottom.

Gauge: 18 stitches and 28 rows equals 4 inches in seed stitch on US size 7 needles. Gauge matters more for this bag than it would for a decorative project, because you want the fabric dense enough to be functional. If your gauge is significantly off, adjust your needle size accordingly. The finished bag will be approximately 15 inches wide, 13 inches tall, and 4 inches deep at the base.

Abbreviations

Here are the abbreviations used throughout the pattern.

CO — cast on. K — knit. P — purl. K2tog — knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease). SSK — slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease). RS — right side. WS — wrong side. Rep — repeat. St(s) — stitch(es). Rnd — round. PM — place marker. SM — slip marker.

Seed Stitch (worked flat over an even number of stitches): Row 1: K1, P1; repeat from to end. Row 2: P1, K1; repeat from to end. Repeat these two rows for the pattern. The key to seed stitch is that you always knit the purls and purl the knits as they face you.

Pattern Instructions

Base of the Bag

The base is worked first as a flat rectangle, then stitches are picked up around all four edges to begin the sides.

Cast on 20 stitches using a long-tail cast on, which gives you a neat, sturdy edge.

Work in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) for 60 rows. This gives you a base that is approximately 4 inches wide and 8 inches long. Bind off all stitches but do not cut your yarn — leave a long tail.

Picking Up Stitches for the Sides

This is the most technical part of the pattern, but take your time and it will go smoothly.

With the right side of your base rectangle facing you, and beginning at one of the short edges, pick up and knit as follows:

Along the first short edge (the bound-off edge): pick up and knit 20 stitches. Place marker.

Along the first long edge: pick up and knit 70 stitches (roughly one stitch for every row, though you can space them evenly and adjust to hit this number). Place marker.

Along the second short edge (the cast-on edge): pick up and knit 20 stitches. Place marker.

Along the second long edge: pick up and knit 70 stitches. Place marker.

You should now have 180 stitches on your needle with four stitch markers placed at the corners of the rectangle. Join to work in the round if you are using a circular needle, or continue working flat — instructions for both are given below.

If working flat (recommended for beginners): You will work the front and back panels of the bag separately and seam them at the sides. This is simpler to visualize and makes it easy to keep the seed stitch pattern correct. Divide your 180 stitches in half — 90 stitches for the front panel and 90 stitches for the back panel. You can work them on separate needles or work one first, then the other.

Working the Front and Back Panels (worked flat, each panel separately):

Cast on or begin with your 90 stitches for the front panel.

Set-up row (WS): P1, K1; repeat from to end.

Work in seed stitch as established for 80 rows total, ending with a WS row. Your panel should measure approximately 11.5 inches from the pick-up edge.

Top Border:

Work 6 rows in garter stitch (knit every row) to create a neat, flat border at the top of the bag. This stabilizes the opening and makes the bag look intentionally finished.

Bind off all stitches loosely. A loose bind-off is important here — if your bind-off is too tight, the top of the bag will pucker and resist being opened wide. If you tend to bind off tightly, try using a needle one or two sizes larger for the bind-off row.

Work the back panel the same way.

Seaming the Sides

Block both panels lightly by spritzing with water and letting them dry flat. This makes seaming much easier.

Hold the front and back panels with wrong sides together. Using your tapestry needle and a length of yarn, seam the side edges together using mattress stitch. Mattress stitch creates a nearly invisible seam on the right side of the fabric and lies flat without bulk. Work from the bottom of the side edge up to the top border, then fasten off and repeat on the other side.

If you started from a picked-up base, fold the base flat and seam the short sides of the base to the bottom of the side seams to close the corners of the bag, creating that neat, boxy shape. This is called “boxing the corners” and it is what gives the tote its flat, structured bottom.

Knitting the Straps

This is my favorite part of the whole pattern because I-cord straps feel so luxurious to use. They are smooth, round, and comfortable on the shoulder.

Using double-pointed needles or the magic loop method on a circular needle, cast on 4 stitches.

Knit all 4 stitches. Without turning your work, slide the stitches to the other end of the needle. The yarn will pull across the back. Rep from until the I-cord measures 28 inches (or your desired length — see the note below about strap length).

Bind off all 4 stitches and cut yarn, leaving a long tail for attaching.

Make a second strap the same length.

A note on strap length: 28 inches is a comfortable shoulder-carry length for most people. If you prefer a longer strap for cross-body carrying, work until the I-cord measures 36 to 40 inches. If you prefer short handles, work to about 18 inches. Just keep in mind that longer straps require more yarn — plan for an extra 50 to 80 yards per strap for significantly longer lengths.

Attaching the Straps

Position the end of one strap on the inside top of the front panel, approximately 3 inches from each side edge. Using the long tail and your tapestry needle, sew the strap end securely to the inside of the bag. Go through the strap multiple times in a box or cross pattern to make sure it is firmly anchored — this is a load-bearing seam and you want it strong. Repeat for the other end of the same strap on the back panel, directly across from the front attachment point. Attach the second strap the same way.

Finishing Touches

Weave in all ends using your tapestry needle, burying them deep in the fabric so they do not work their way out with use.

Give the entire bag a gentle wet block. Fill a basin with cool water and a small amount of gentle wool wash or dish soap, submerge the bag, and let it soak for fifteen minutes. Gently squeeze out the water without wringing, roll the bag in a towel to absorb excess moisture, and then shape it while damp. Stuff the inside with plastic bags or a pillow to help it hold its rectangular shape while it dries. Let it dry completely before using it.

If you want a sturdier base, cut a piece of plastic canvas (found at any craft store) to the dimensions of the bag’s bottom and slip it inside. This makes the bag sit upright on its own and prevents the base from sagging under heavy loads.

Yarn Alternatives and Customization Ideas

One of the joys of a simple pattern like this is how easy it is to customize. Here are some ideas.

Change the stitch pattern. If you want a different texture, try working the body in a simple basket weave (alternating blocks of knit and purl stitches) or a ribbed pattern. Just be aware that very open or lacy stitch patterns will let small items fall through — stick to denser textures for a functional tote.

Add a lining. If you sew, a simple fabric lining transforms this bag from a casual knit to something that feels polished and professional. Cut two rectangles and a base piece from a quilting cotton, sew them together with a sewing machine, fold the top edge under, and slip stitch the lining to the inside of the bag along the top border. A lining also makes the bag easier to clean and prevents stretching from heavy loads.

Try color blocking. Work the first 20 rows in one color, the next 40 rows in a second color, and the final 20 rows in your original color for a bold, graphic stripe. This is a great way to use up yarn from your stash.

Embellish with a button or closure. If you want the bag to close, sew a large wooden button to the center front of the bag’s top border, and work a simple loop of chain stitch or a crocheted loop from the back top border to slip over it as a closure.

Make a smaller version. To make a wine bag, small gift bag, or project bag for your knitting notions, cast on 12 stitches for the base and work a base rectangle of 30 rows. Pick up stitches proportionally and work the sides for about 40 rows before binding off.

Tips for Knitting Success

If you are new to bag knitting, a few tips will help your project come out beautifully.

Work with yarn that you love the feel of, because you will be spending a lot of time with it. Scratchy or stiff yarn will make the knitting feel like a chore, and the finished bag will not be pleasant to use.

Tension matters more for bags than for garments. A loose, drapey fabric might be lovely for a shawl but it will result in a bag that stretches out of shape. Aim for a firm, tight fabric where you can barely see through the stitches when you hold the work up to the light.

Block your finished pieces before seaming. It makes the seaming process dramatically easier and the finished seams look much cleaner.

If your I-cord straps twist while you are attaching them, that is completely fine — a slight twist in a strap actually makes it more comfortable and prevents it from cutting into your shoulder. Just make sure both straps twist in the same direction for a consistent look.

Do not rush the finishing. Most knitters (including me) are tempted to skip straight to using a new project the moment the knitting is done, but taking the time to block, seam carefully, and weave in ends thoroughly makes the difference between a bag that looks handmade in the best possible way and one that looks sloppy.

Caring for Your Knitted Tote

If you used cotton or linen yarn, your bag is almost certainly machine washable — check the yarn label to confirm. Wash in cold water on a gentle cycle and reshape while damp, then let it air dry. Avoid putting a knitted bag in a hot dryer, which can cause shrinkage or distortion. Most cotton yarn actually softens and becomes more pleasant with washing and use, so do not be afraid to throw it in the wash after a trip to the farmer’s market.

A Few Final Thoughts

Knitting a bag is one of the most satisfying quick-ish projects out there. Unlike a sweater, which can take months, this tote can realistically be finished in a weekend — which is exactly where the name comes from. Sit down on a Friday evening with a good podcast or a favorite show, and you might find yourself attaching the straps by Sunday afternoon.

The finished bag also makes a wonderful gift. A handknitted tote is practical, thoughtful, and always appreciated. Tuck a bottle of wine, a jar of homemade jam, or a small plant inside for an extra-special birthday or housewarming gift that people will actually use for years.

I hope you enjoy knitting this pattern as much as I enjoyed designing it. If you make one, I would love to hear how it turns out — what yarn you used, what changes you made, and how you plan to use it. Happy knitting.