Toiletry Bag Pattern | Make a Travel Bag – Step by Step

There is something deeply satisfying about making your own travel accessories. A handmade toiletry bag is not only practical and durable, but it becomes a small reflection of your personal style every time you unzip it in a hotel bathroom or pull it from your luggage. Whether you are an experienced sewist looking for a new weekend project or a beginner who wants to try something beyond pillowcases and tote bags, this toiletry bag pattern is approachable, rewarding, and endlessly customizable.

This guide will walk you through everything you need — materials, cutting instructions, measurements, and a complete step-by-step sewing process — so that by the end, you will have a beautiful, lined travel bag with a zipper closure that you can use, gift, or even sell.

Why Make Your Own Toiletry Bag?

Before we get into the pattern itself, it is worth pausing to consider why a handmade toiletry bag is such a worthwhile project. Store-bought versions are often made from thin nylon or flimsy plastic lining that cracks over time. They tend to come in generic sizes that are either too small for a full set of toiletries or so large they waste space in your luggage.

When you sew your own, you control the dimensions, the fabric choice, the lining material, and the hardware. You can make a compact version for a weekend trip, a generous size for longer travel, or a flat lay style for easy visibility. You can also choose waterproof lining fabric so that any spills from shampoo or face wash stay contained inside the bag rather than soaking through to the rest of your luggage.

Beyond the practical benefits, a handmade gift that someone can use daily carries a special meaning. Toiletry bags are popular handmade gifts for birthdays, graduations, bridal parties, and holiday giving.

Materials and Supplies

To make one standard toiletry bag measuring approximately 10 inches wide by 7 inches tall by 4 inches deep, you will need the following:

Fabric. One half yard of exterior fabric is enough for most projects. Choose something with body, like a cotton canvas, a quilting cotton backed with iron-on interfacing, a waxed cotton, or an exterior-weight nylon. Avoid very lightweight or stretchy fabrics for your first attempt, as they can be difficult to manage around the zipper.

Lining fabric. One half yard of lining fabric. This is a great place to use a laminated cotton or an oilcloth, both of which are waterproof and wipe clean easily. If you prefer a softer interior, a regular cotton works well too, especially if you add a layer of fusible fleece or batting for structure.

Interfacing. If your exterior fabric is lightweight, cut pieces of medium-weight fusible interfacing to match each exterior piece. This adds structure so the bag keeps its shape.

Zipper. One 12-inch zipper in a coordinating or contrasting color. Nylon coil zippers are the easiest to sew and most beginner friendly. Metal zippers give a more polished, high-end look. You can use a zipper slightly longer than 12 inches and shorten it if needed.

Zipper pull or charm. Optional, but a leather zipper pull or a small decorative charm elevates the finished look considerably.

Coordinating thread. Choose a thread weight suitable for the fabrics you are using. A standard 50-weight all-purpose thread works for most fabric combinations.

Basic sewing supplies. You will need a sewing machine, scissors or a rotary cutter and mat, a ruler, pins or wonder clips, an iron and pressing surface, a seam ripper (just in case), and a water-soluble fabric marker or chalk pencil for marking.

Optional: a zipper foot. While not strictly required, a zipper foot makes sewing close to the zipper teeth much easier and gives cleaner results.

Understanding the Pattern Pieces

This toiletry bag is made up of a small number of pattern pieces, which is part of what makes it so manageable even for sewists who are newer to bag making.

You will cut two exterior main panels, two lining main panels, one exterior bottom panel, and one lining bottom panel. The zipper connects the two main panels at the top, and the bottom panel creates the boxed shape that gives the bag its three-dimensional depth.

All measurements include a half-inch seam allowance throughout unless otherwise noted.

Main panel. Cut two pieces from exterior fabric and two pieces from lining fabric, each measuring 11 inches wide by 8 inches tall.

Bottom panel. Cut one piece from exterior fabric and one piece from lining fabric, each measuring 11 inches wide by 5 inches tall.

If you are using interfacing, cut it to the same dimensions as each exterior piece and fuse it to the wrong side of the fabric before cutting, following the manufacturer’s instructions for heat settings.

Preparing Your Fabric

Good preparation is the foundation of a well-sewn bag. Before you cut anything, prewash and press your exterior and lining fabrics if they are natural fibers like cotton. This prevents unwanted shrinkage after the bag is finished. Laminated cotton and oilcloth do not need prewashing.

Press all your fabric pieces flat. Apply your interfacing to the wrong side of each exterior piece according to the manufacturer’s instructions, pressing firmly and evenly with a dry iron or a light press cloth if needed. Allow each piece to cool flat before moving it.

Label your pieces with a fabric marker or small safety pin if they look similar to each other. This is especially helpful when you are using the same color for both panels and the bottom, since it is easy to confuse the exterior and lining pieces once they are all cut and piled together.

Step One: Prepare the Zipper

Lay one exterior main panel face up on your work surface. Place the zipper face down along the top 11-inch edge, with the zipper pull end toward the left side of the panel. The zipper tape should be aligned with the raw top edge of the fabric.

Now place one lining main panel face down on top of the zipper, sandwiching the zipper between the exterior and lining, right sides together. You should have a fabric sandwich with the exterior on the bottom (right side up), the zipper in the middle (face down), and the lining on top (right side down).

Pin or clip through all three layers along that top edge.

Using your zipper foot, sew along the top edge with a half-inch seam allowance. Sew slowly and carefully, and stop with the needle down to pivot if needed as you pass near the zipper pull.

Once sewn, flip the exterior and lining away from each other so that the zipper is now sandwiched and exposed along the top seam. Press gently, using a pressing cloth if working with a nylon zipper to avoid melting the teeth. Topstitch close to the folded edge, about an eighth of an inch from the seam, to keep everything flat and tidy.

Repeat this entire process with the second exterior main panel and the second lining main panel on the other side of the zipper tape.

When finished, you will have a zipper unit with two fabric panels hanging from either side of it, each consisting of an exterior and lining sewn together at the top.

Step Two: Open the Zipper

This is an essential step that many beginners forget, and it can lead to a frustrating moment when you realize you cannot turn the bag right side out because the zipper is closed. Before you sew the bag pieces together, open the zipper about halfway. You do not need to open it all the way, just enough to create an opening you can reach through later to turn the bag right side out.

Step Three: Attach the Bottom Panel

Fold the zipper unit so that the two exterior main panels are facing each other (right sides together) and the two lining panels are also facing each other (right sides together). You will have the exterior pieces forming the outer shell and the lining pieces forming the inner pouch, all connected along the zipper seam at the top.

Take your exterior bottom panel and place it along the bottom raw edge of one exterior main panel, right sides together, matching the 11-inch edges. Pin or clip in place. Sew along this bottom edge with a half-inch seam allowance.

Now attach the opposite long edge of the exterior bottom panel to the bottom raw edge of the other exterior main panel, right sides together. You will need to fold and arrange the fabric carefully so that the two main panels are cupping the bottom panel between them. Pin, clip, and sew along the bottom edge.

You now have the exterior of the bag assembled into a tube shape, with the zipper at the top and the bottom panel connecting the two sides at the base.

Repeat this process for the lining: sew the lining bottom panel to the bottom edges of the two lining main panels the same way.

Step Four: Sew the Side Seams

With the bag still inside out and the exterior pieces facing each other, find the side raw edges of the exterior. These are the short 8-inch edges. Sew down each side seam with a half-inch seam allowance, stitching from the zipper seam down to the bottom panel corners.

At the corners where the side seam meets the bottom panel, clip a small notch into the seam allowance to help the corner lie flat when turned. Be careful not to clip through your stitching.

Repeat for the lining side seams.

At this point, the exterior bag and the lining bag are both assembled but still connected to each other at the zipper and open at the sides where lining meets exterior. Make sure those side seams are nestled neatly and that nothing is twisted.

Step Five: Turn and Close

Reach through the open zipper and carefully pull the exterior bag right side out through the zipper opening. Take your time here and use your fingers to push the corners out gently. A blunt tool like a chopstick or a turning tool helps.

Once right side out, tuck the lining down inside the exterior bag. Press the bag firmly, paying particular attention to the zipper seam and the side seams. A well-pressed bag looks significantly more professional than one that has not been ironed.

If you have a gap in the side seams where the lining meets the exterior at the top near the zipper, tuck the raw edges inward by half an inch and hand stitch or machine stitch the gap closed. A simple slip stitch by hand is almost invisible and gives a very clean finish.

Step Six: Topstitch and Finish

With the bag fully assembled and pressed, do a final topstitch around the entire zipper perimeter if you have not already done so after each zipper attachment. This keeps the lining from peeking out and adds a clean, finished appearance.

If you want to add a zipper pull, loop a strip of leather, ribbon, or cord through the zipper hole and knot or fold it back on itself before stitching it in place. Even a simple loop of leather cord looks striking and makes the zipper much easier to use.

Tips for a Professional Finish

Pressing at every stage makes a visible difference. Every time you sew a seam, press it before moving on. This is especially important around the zipper, where puckering and bulk tend to accumulate.

Slowing down your machine speed near the zipper teeth helps prevent broken needles. A universal needle in size 80/12 or 90/14 handles most fabric combinations well, but if you are sewing through multiple layers of canvas or interfacing, move up to a 100/16.

If your lining fabric is laminated or oilcloth, do not use pins, as they leave permanent holes. Use clips instead. A Teflon presser foot or a walking foot is also helpful for these fabrics, as they can stick under a standard presser foot.

Customizing Your Toiletry Bag Pattern

One of the greatest pleasures of sewing your own toiletry bag is the ability to customize it. Here are a few ideas for variations once you are comfortable with the base pattern.

Adding a D-ring loop to the zipper end gives you a place to hang the bag on a towel bar or hook, which is incredibly practical in small hotel bathrooms. Simply fold a strip of webbing or ribbon around a D-ring and sandwich it between the exterior and lining when you sew the side seam.

An interior pocket is another useful addition. Before assembling the lining, sew a simple flat pocket onto one of the lining panels. This is ideal for storing items you want to access quickly, like lip balm, a travel toothbrush, or bandages.

If you want a flatter, zip-around style that folds open for full visibility, adapt the main panel measurements to be wider and add a second zipper along the side seam rather than the bottom panel. This creates a trifold layout similar to a dopp kit variation.

You can also make a set of bags in graduated sizes using the same pattern scaled up or down. A small version works perfectly as a jewelry pouch or a cable organizer, while a larger version handles full-size bottles with room to spare.

Fabric Pairing Inspiration

Choosing fabric combinations is one of the most enjoyable parts of bag making. A classic and always elegant approach is a bold, graphic exterior print paired with a clean white or natural linen lining. Vintage-inspired florals in deep jewel tones look beautiful with a mustard yellow zipper. Geometric prints in gender-neutral colors make wonderful gifts for people of any style.

For a more luxurious feel, try a heavy-duty waxed canvas in olive or navy for the exterior with a striped cotton for the lining. This combination is durable enough for years of use and ages beautifully as the waxed canvas develops a natural patina.

If you are making bags to sell, a cohesive fabric collection approach — where all your bags share a color palette but different prints — photographs beautifully and helps establish a recognizable brand aesthetic.

Caring for Your Handmade Toiletry Bag

If your lining is laminated cotton, wipe it clean with a damp cloth. If both exterior and lining are standard cotton, the bag can typically be machine washed on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag. Allow it to air dry rather than machine drying to preserve the zipper and any interfacing.

Store the bag with a small piece of tissue paper inside to help it keep its shape during times when it is not in use.

Making a toiletry bag is one of those projects that rewards you long after the sewing is done. Every trip you take, every morning you unzip it in a bathroom mirror somewhere new, you get to enjoy something made with your own hands. With this pattern as your foundation, the variations are truly limitless — and once you have made one, you will almost certainly find yourself planning the next.