The Net Tote Everyone Is Making | Easy DIY Net Tote Bag Knitting Pattern

There’s something undeniably satisfying about walking into a farmers market, a beach day, or a casual weekend brunch with a handmade net tote bag slung over your shoulder. It’s the kind of accessory that looks effortlessly chic, sparks conversations, and carries the quiet pride of something you made yourself. If you’ve been scrolling through social media lately and noticed everyone seems to have one of these open-weave, mesh-style bags, you’re not imagining things. The net tote bag is having a major moment — and the best part is that it’s one of the most beginner-friendly knitting projects you can take on.

This post is your complete guide to making your own net tote bag from scratch. Whether you’re a brand-new knitter who just learned to cast on, or a seasoned maker looking for a quick and satisfying weekend project, this pattern is for you. We’ll walk through the materials you need, explain the stitches involved, break down the pattern row by row, and share tips for customizing the bag to suit your own style. By the time you finish reading, you’ll have everything you need to cast on and get started.

Why the Net Tote Bag Is So Popular Right Now

Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s talk about why the net tote has taken over every knitting community, Pinterest board, and Instagram grid in recent memory.

For one, it’s incredibly practical. A net tote is lightweight, stretchy, and surprisingly strong. It holds its shape well when full and collapses down to almost nothing when empty, which makes it easy to toss in a purse or backpack and pull out whenever you need it. It’s the perfect grocery bag, produce bag, library bag, or beach bag.

For another, it’s sustainable. Knitted net bags have been used for centuries across many cultures — the Spanish “bolsa de malla,” the Scandinavian mesh bag, the traditional string bags found in markets all over Europe — as reusable, durable alternatives to disposable packaging. Making your own means you’re reducing plastic waste with every use.

But probably the biggest reason this bag has exploded in popularity right now is simply that it looks beautiful. The open mesh design has a naturally organic, handcrafted aesthetic that fits perfectly with the current trend toward slower living, artisan goods, and things that feel personal. When you carry a net tote, you’re making a small but visible statement about the way you choose to move through the world.

Materials You’ll Need

One of the most appealing things about this project is how minimal the supply list is. You don’t need anything fancy or expensive. Here’s what to gather before you begin.

Yarn: Cotton yarn is the classic choice for net totes and for good reason. It’s durable, washable, doesn’t stretch out of shape over time, and has a clean, polished look. A DK weight or worsted weight 100% cotton yarn will give you excellent results. Some popular choices include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK Cotton, or Drops Paris. For this pattern, you’ll need roughly 200–300 yards, depending on how large you want the bag. One skein of worsted cotton is usually enough.

If you want a more rustic or beachy look, a natural jute twine or linen yarn also works beautifully. These have more texture and create a slightly stiffer bag that holds its shape very well.

Needles: You’ll want knitting needles that are one or two sizes larger than what the yarn label recommends. This creates a looser gauge and allows the mesh pattern to open up the way it should. For DK cotton, try US size 7 (4.5mm) needles. For worsted cotton, go with US size 9 (5.5mm) needles. You can use straight needles if you’re comfortable with seaming, or circular needles if you prefer to knit in the round.

Notions: You’ll need a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, a pair of scissors, and stitch markers if you’re working in the round. That’s genuinely it.

Understanding the Mesh Stitch

The defining feature of a net tote is, of course, the mesh pattern. Before you begin the pattern, let’s demystify how it works.

The basic mesh stitch used in this bag is a simple combination of yarn overs and decreases. A yarn over creates a new stitch and leaves a hole (the open part of the mesh), while the decrease removes a stitch so your total stitch count stays the same. The result is a regular, lacy grid of open spaces that gives the bag its net-like appearance.

The two stitches you need to know are yarn over (YO) and knit two together (K2tog). If you’ve never done either, here’s the quick version.

A yarn over is simply wrapping the yarn around the needle from front to back before working the next stitch. When you knit across the next row, you treat this wrapped loop as a regular stitch, and it forms a small hole in the fabric.

Knit two together means inserting your right needle through two stitches at once (from left to right) and knitting them as if they were one stitch. This leans the decrease to the right and is the most common decrease in knitting.

In the mesh pattern, you’ll alternate yarn overs with K2tog decreases across each row. This is the entire “trick” of the stitch. Once you’ve done it for even a few rows, your fingers will find the rhythm and it becomes almost meditative.

The Pattern

This pattern creates a simple, roomy net tote bag with a flat bottom and two handles. It’s worked flat (back and forth on straight or circular needles) and seamed up the sides. The finished bag is approximately 12 inches wide and 14 inches tall before stretching, and will accommodate a surprising amount of produce, books, or beach gear.

Gauge: Gauge is relaxed for this project. Approximately 14 stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches in mesh pattern on US size 9 needles with worsted cotton. Your finished measurements may vary slightly, and that’s perfectly fine — the beauty of a mesh bag is that it stretches to fit what’s inside.

Abbreviations:
CO = cast on
K = knit
P = purl
YO = yarn over
K2tog = knit two together
BO = bind off
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Rep = repeat
St(s) = stitch(es)

Cast On

Using the long-tail cast on method (or your preferred method), CO 44 stitches.

The long-tail cast on is recommended because it creates a stretchy, neat edge that works well for the bottom of the bag. If you’re not familiar with it, a simple backward loop cast on will work fine too.

Bottom Rows (Solid Base)

Rows 1–8: Work in stockinette stitch (knit on RS rows, purl on WS rows).

These solid rows form the base of the bag. They give the bottom structure and stability so the bag holds its shape when you set it down. You can also work these rows in garter stitch (knitting every row) if you prefer a slightly sturdier, less curling base.

Mesh Section

Now the fun begins. This is where you establish the mesh pattern.

Row 1 (RS): K2, YO, K2tog; rep from to last 2 sts, K2.
Row 2 (WS): Purl all stitches.

Repeat these two rows until the mesh section measures approximately 12–13 inches from the end of your solid base, or until the bag is the depth you want. This will be roughly 50–60 rows of mesh, but you should measure as you go and adjust to your preference.

The first and last two stitches of every RS row are knit plain — these are your selvedge stitches, and they create a smooth, clean edge that’s much easier to seam. Don’t skip them.

Top Ribbing

Once your mesh section is the length you want, it’s time to add a bit of structure to the top of the bag.

Rows 1–6: Work in 2×2 rib: K2, P2; rep from across. (If your stitch count doesn’t divide evenly by 4, adjust by adding or removing 1–2 stitches evenly across the first ribbing row.)

The ribbing at the top reinforces the opening of the bag and gives it a polished, intentional look. It also keeps the top edge from rolling outward.

Bind Off

BO all stitches in pattern (knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches as you bind off). Use a stretchy bind off if possible — a simple way to achieve this is to use a needle one or two sizes larger for the bind off row.

Making the Second Side

Repeat the entire pattern from cast on to bind off to create the second side of the bag. Both pieces should be identical.

Finishing: Seaming the Sides

Place both pieces with right sides together. Using your tapestry needle and a length of the same yarn, seam up both side edges using a mattress stitch or whipstitch. The mattress stitch will give you a nearly invisible seam if worked carefully, but a whipstitch works just as well and is faster.

Turn the bag right side out. You now have the main body of the bag complete.

Making the Handles

You have a few options for handles, and which you choose depends on the look you want and how much you plan to carry.

Option 1: I-cord Handles (recommended for a neat, polished finish)

Using double-pointed needles or the magic loop method, CO 4 stitches. Work I-cord as follows: knit all 4 stitches, then without turning the work, slide all stitches to the right end of the needle and pull the yarn across the back. Repeat until the cord measures 20–24 inches (or your preferred handle length). BO all stitches.

Make two identical cords. Fold each cord in half to find the center, then pin the center of each handle to the side seam of the bag, approximately 3 inches from the outer edges on each side. Stitch both ends of each handle securely to the inside of the top ribbing, making sure the handles sit flat and even.

Option 2: Knitted Strap

CO 8 stitches. Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 20–24 inches. BO and attach the same way as the I-cord handles. This creates a flat, slightly wider strap that distributes weight a bit more comfortably.

Option 3: Leather or Rope Handles

If you want a more structured look, you can skip knitting the handles entirely and use a pair of leather bag handles or a length of cotton rope, attaching them through the knitted fabric using a tapestry needle and a few secure stitches.

Weaving In Ends

Use your tapestry needle to weave in all remaining yarn ends, taking care to weave them in different directions for extra security. Give the ends a gentle tug to make sure they won’t work loose.

Blocking (Optional but Recommended)

If you’re working with cotton yarn, a quick wet block will significantly improve the finished look of your bag. Soak it in cool water for about 10 minutes, gently squeeze out the excess water (don’t wring), then lay flat or hang to dry. This relaxes the fibers and evens out the mesh holes so they look more uniform and open.

Customization Ideas

One of the most exciting things about this pattern is how easily it adapts to different styles, sizes, and uses. Once you have the basic structure down, the creative possibilities are wide open.

Change the yarn color. A classic off-white or natural cotton gives a timeless, organic look. But a bold terracotta, forest green, mustard yellow, or deep navy makes a statement and lets the bag become a real accessory rather than just a utility item. Variegated or hand-dyed yarn creates a beautiful marbled effect through the mesh.

Make it bigger or smaller. To make a larger market bag, simply cast on more stitches (in a multiple of 2 plus 4 for the selvedge stitches) and work more rows. To make a mini produce bag or a gift bag, cast on fewer stitches. The math is simple and the structure stays the same.

Add a solid stripe. For a more textured design, work a few rows of solid stockinette or garter stitch within the mesh section at regular intervals. This creates a striped effect that breaks up the mesh and adds visual interest.

Try a different mesh pattern. For larger, more open holes, try working the YO, K2tog repeat every other row instead of every RS row. For a diagonal mesh, offset the placement of your yarn overs by one stitch every row to create a traveling lace pattern.

Add a lining. For those who want to use the bag for things like dry bulk goods or small items that would slip through the mesh, you can sew a simple fabric lining from a piece of cotton or linen fabric. This takes the bag from purely decorative and functional to truly versatile.

Caring for Your Net Tote

Cotton knitted bags are wonderfully easy to care for. Machine wash on a gentle or delicate cycle in cool water, then reshape and lay flat to dry or hang. Avoid putting them in the dryer, as heat can shrink cotton and distort the mesh pattern.

If you notice the mesh holes becoming uneven with regular use, a quick soak and re-blocking will restore the bag to its original shape.

With proper care, a handknitted cotton net tote will last for years — far longer than any plastic or disposable bag, and with far more personality.

A Few Final Tips for Success

If you’re new to knitting or new to mesh patterns, a few extra pointers will make the process smoother.

Work in good light, especially when you’re first learning the yarn over. It’s easy to miss a yarn over or accidentally drop one if you’re knitting in dim conditions, and the mistake doesn’t always show up until a few rows later.

Count your stitches at the end of every right-side row for the first several repeats. Because the mesh pattern involves adding and removing stitches in the same row, any error will show up as a stitch count that’s off, and catching it early saves you from having to rip back very far.

Don’t tug the yarn too tightly. The whole beauty of the mesh pattern is the openness of the holes, and if your tension is very tight, the holes will close up and the bag will look more like a regular piece of stockinette than a net. Keep your yarn overs loose and relaxed, and let the fabric breathe.

Finally, enjoy the process. This is a project that rewards the time you put into it. Every row of mesh is a small repetitive act of making, and there’s a real meditative quality to the rhythm of yarn over, knit two together, yarn over, knit two together, moving across the needle. Many knitters find mesh patterns deeply relaxing precisely because of this repetition. By the time you finish the bag and hold it up to see those beautiful open squares lined up in neat rows, the sense of accomplishment is entirely real.

The net tote everyone is making is waiting for you to make it yours. Cast on, pick your favorite cotton, and see what you create.