The Easiest Crochet Drawstring Bag You’ll Ever Make
There is something deeply satisfying about finishing a crochet project and immediately being able to use it. No waiting for blocking to dry, no sewing in dozens of ends, no wondering whether it will actually hold its shape. A simple drawstring bag checks every one of those boxes, and it does so in a way that even a beginner can pull off in a single afternoon. Whether you are brand new to crochet or you have been crocheting for years and just want a quick, satisfying project, this tutorial is going to walk you through every step of the process. By the end, you will have a functional, beautiful bag that looks like it took far more effort than it actually did.
Why a Crochet Drawstring Bag Is the Perfect Project
Before we dive into the pattern, it is worth talking about why this particular project deserves a spot at the top of your to-do list. Drawstring bags have been a staple in handmade crafting for generations, and for good reason. They are useful in everyday life in ways that decorative projects simply are not. You can toss one in your purse to hold your headphones, lip balm, and hair ties. You can use a larger version as a gym bag or a beach bag. You can make a small version as a gift bag during the holidays and skip the wrapping paper entirely. You can keep one on your nightstand to hold your phone and charger at night.
The drawstring design also makes this bag incredibly forgiving. Unlike a bag with a structured zipper closure, there are no precise measurements that have to line up perfectly. The opening can be a little uneven, the sides can be slightly irregular, and the finished product will still look intentional and charming. This is one of those rare patterns where imperfections add to the handmade aesthetic rather than detracting from it.
From a skill standpoint, this bag uses only the most basic crochet stitches. If you know how to chain, make a slip stitch, and work a single or double crochet, you have everything you need to complete this project. There are no complicated stitch patterns, no colorwork, and no special techniques. Just honest, reliable stitches worked in the round until your bag is the size you want it to be.
What You Will Need
One of the best things about this pattern is how little you need to get started. Here is a simple list of supplies.
Yarn: Any worsted weight yarn works beautifully for this project. Cotton yarn is a popular choice because it is sturdy, holds its shape well, and comes in a huge range of colors. Acrylic yarn is a more affordable option and works just as well if you want something machine-washable. You will need approximately 150 to 200 yards for a medium-sized bag, though you can use more or less depending on how big you want the finished bag to be. A single skein of most worsted weight yarns will be more than enough.
Hook: A 5mm hook is a good standard choice for worsted weight yarn. If you are using a thicker yarn or want a looser, more open fabric, go up to a 5.5mm or 6mm hook. If you want a tighter weave that will hold smaller items without letting them slip through, go down slightly to a 4.5mm hook.
Scissors: Any pair will do. You just need to cut your yarn at the end.
Tapestry needle: This is used to weave in your ends at the finish. A blunt-tipped tapestry or yarn needle works best.
Stitch marker: Optional but helpful, especially if you are new to working in the round. It marks the beginning of each round so you always know where you are.
Cord or ribbon for the drawstring: You can use a thin piece of yarn in a contrasting or coordinating color, a cotton macramé cord, a ribbon, or even a shoelace. You will need a piece approximately 40 to 50 inches long, though you can adjust this based on how your bag turns out.
Understanding the Construction
This drawstring bag is worked from the bottom up, which means you start at the base of the bag and work upward toward the opening. The bottom is worked flat in the round, which creates a small, circular disc that forms the floor of the bag. Once the base is the right size, you begin working up the sides without turning your work, which gives you the seamless, cylindrical shape of the bag body.
Near the top of the bag, you will work a row of simple chain spaces that create the channel through which your drawstring is threaded. This is often called a drawstring row or an eyelet row, and it is one of the only slightly technical parts of the pattern. Even so, it is nothing more than a simple repetition of one easy sequence, so do not be intimidated by it.
Once your bag body is complete, you weave the drawstring through the eyelet row, tie the ends together, and you are done. There is no lining to sew in, no handles to attach, and no additional construction required. The whole project comes together in just a few hours.
The Pattern: Step by Step
Starting Chain and Base
Begin by making a magic ring, or if you prefer not to use a magic ring, chain 4 and slip stitch to the first chain to form a loop. Both methods work equally well.
Round 1: Work 8 single crochets into the ring. Pull the magic ring closed if you used one. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of this round. You will have 8 stitches. (8 sc)
Round 2: Work 2 single crochets into each stitch around. You will have 16 stitches. (16 sc)
Round 3: Work 1 single crochet in the first stitch, then 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat this sequence all the way around. You will have 24 stitches. (24 sc)
Round 4: Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 2 stitches, then 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat all the way around. You will have 32 stitches. (32 sc)
Round 5: Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 3 stitches, then 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat all the way around. You will have 40 stitches. (40 sc)
At this point, your base should measure approximately 4 inches across. This is a good size for a medium bag. If you want a larger bag, continue adding increase rounds following the same pattern, adding one more single crochet between each increase with every round. If you want a smaller bag, you can stop at round 4 and begin working the sides.
Building the Sides
This is where the bag really comes together, and it is also the most satisfying part of the project because you get to watch it grow with each round.
Round 6 onward: Work 1 single crochet in each stitch around, without any increases. Continue working in this manner round after round. You are no longer increasing, just working straight up the sides of the bag.
Continue until the bag is as tall as you want it to be. For a small pouch, 10 to 12 rounds of the sides will give you a bag that is about 3 to 4 inches tall. For a medium bag, aim for 18 to 22 rounds, which will give you a bag about 6 to 7 inches tall. For a large tote-style bag, you might work 30 or more rounds.
As you work these rounds, the fabric will naturally curve upward and the sides of your bag will begin to take shape. The stitch marker you placed earlier should be moved up at the beginning of each round to help you keep track of where one round ends and the next begins.
Switching to Double Crochet for an Open, Airy Look
If you want a bag with a slightly lighter, more open texture, you can switch to double crochet stitches once you finish the base. Double crochet stitches are taller than single crochet, which means your bag will grow more quickly with each round. They also create a slightly looser weave, which gives the bag a more relaxed, bohemian look that works beautifully with cotton yarn.
To work the sides in double crochet, simply chain 3 at the beginning of each round (which counts as your first double crochet), and then work 1 double crochet in each stitch around. At the end of the round, slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3 to close the round. The construction is otherwise identical to the single crochet version.
Creating the Drawstring Channel
Once your bag body is the height you want, it is time to create the channel that will hold your drawstring. This is the eyelet row, and it is worked as follows.
Eyelet Round: Chain 3, skip the next stitch, work 1 double crochet in the following stitch. Continue this sequence all the way around, alternating chain 3 spaces with double crochet stitches. At the end of the round, slip stitch to the top of the first double crochet.
The chain 3 spaces form small openings in the fabric. Once you have worked this row, you will be able to see a series of little holes running around the circumference of the bag, and these are exactly what you will use to thread your drawstring through.
Final Round: Work 1 single crochet in each stitch and each chain space from the previous round all the way around. This gives the top of your bag a clean, finished edge that will not curl. Slip stitch to the first single crochet, cut your yarn, and fasten off.
Weave in all your ends with your tapestry needle.
Adding the Drawstring
Cut your drawstring material to approximately 40 to 50 inches. You want it long enough to thread all the way through the channel, come out the same opening you went in through, and have enough length on both ends to tie a knot and still pull comfortably.
Attach a safety pin to one end of the cord. This will act as a needle and make it much easier to guide the cord through the channel. Insert the safety pin into one of the eyelet openings and begin weaving it through the channel, going into each opening and out the next one all the way around the bag. When you arrive back at the opening where you started, pull both ends of the cord out so that they are even.
Tie both ends of the cord together in a simple overhand knot, or tie them separately with a knot at each end to create two pulls instead of one. Both methods work well, and it comes down to personal preference.
To close the bag, simply pull both sides of the drawstring and the opening will cinch together. To open it, relax your grip and the bag will open back up naturally.
Customizing Your Bag
One of the most enjoyable parts of this pattern is how easy it is to adapt it to your exact needs and tastes. Here are a few ideas for making your bag uniquely yours.
Color: The simplest way to personalize your bag is with color. A single bold color looks modern and clean. Stripes, worked by changing yarn colors at the beginning of a new round, add visual interest without any extra complexity. You can alternate two or three colors for a striped effect or change colors every few rounds for a more gradient-inspired look.
Texture: If you want more visual interest without adding complexity, try working into the back loop only for some or all of the side rounds. Working in the back loop only creates a subtle ribbed texture that looks very polished and adds a bit of stretch to the fabric.
Size: Scale this bag up or down for any purpose. A tiny version worked with fingering weight yarn and a smaller hook makes a sweet coin purse or jewelry pouch. A large version worked with bulky yarn becomes a sturdy market bag or gym bag. The proportions stay the same regardless of size.
Handles: If you want the option to carry the bag over your shoulder rather than just pulling it closed with the drawstring, you can add simple chain handles. After finishing the bag, reattach your yarn at any point along the top edge, chain 40 to 50 stitches, and slip stitch to a point several inches away on the same side of the bag. Repeat on the opposite side for a second handle.
Embellishments: A simple crochet flower, a tassel on the drawstring ends, or a crocheted initial appliqué can all elevate this bag from a quick project to a genuine handmade gift.
Tips for a Neat Finish
A few small habits can make a noticeable difference in how your finished bag looks.
Keep your tension consistent throughout the project. Tension refers to how tightly or loosely you hold your yarn as you work, and it affects the size of your stitches. If your tension is very tight, your stitches will be small and your fabric will be dense. If your tension is loose, your stitches will be larger and your fabric will be more open. Neither is wrong, but inconsistent tension can make your bag look uneven. If you notice your tension changing, take a moment to relax your grip and find a comfortable rhythm before continuing.
Count your stitches at the end of each round, at least while you are working the base. It is much easier to catch a missed increase while you are working the base than it is to notice it later when the bag is already half finished.
Weave in your ends securely by running the yarn tail through several stitches in different directions before trimming it close to the fabric. A well-woven end will not come loose even after many uses and washes.
Block your finished bag if you used cotton yarn. Wet blocking is simple: soak the finished bag in cool water, gently squeeze out the excess water, shape it, and let it dry flat. This evens out the stitches and gives cotton projects a noticeably smoother, more professional appearance.
A Project Worth Returning To Again and Again
Once you have made your first crochet drawstring bag, you will very likely find yourself making more. The pattern is short enough to memorize after just one run-through, which means subsequent bags come together even faster than the first one. Many crocheters keep this pattern on rotation as a go-to gift for friends and family, a quick stash-buster when they have leftover yarn from larger projects, or a satisfying evening project when they want to make something but do not have the energy for anything complicated.
The drawstring bag is also a wonderful first project for teaching someone else to crochet. The steps are logical, the construction makes intuitive sense, and the result is something the beginner can actually use and be proud of, which is one of the most powerful motivators for continuing to learn a new craft.
So grab your hook, pull out that skein of yarn you have been saving, and give this project a try. You might be surprised at how quickly it comes together and how much you enjoy making it.
