Straw-Like Easy Backpack Free Knitting Pattern: Your Complete Guide to a Stylish Summer Carry-All
There is something deeply satisfying about carrying a bag you made yourself. When that bag is light, airy, and woven in a beautiful straw-like texture that looks like it came straight from a boutique shelf, the satisfaction doubles. This free knitting pattern for a straw-like easy backpack is designed for knitters who want a project that is approachable enough to finish in a weekend or two but impressive enough to earn compliments every time they wear it.
Whether you are heading to the farmers market, the beach, a casual brunch, or a day of errands, this backpack brings together practical carrying capacity with an effortlessly chic aesthetic. The open, breathable stitch structure gives it that coveted natural, woven appearance reminiscent of a rattan or straw bag, but with all the flexibility and comfort of knitted fabric. The straps are built right into the construction, and the drawstring closure keeps your belongings secure without adding bulk or complication to the design.
Read on for everything you need — materials, gauge, stitch breakdown, and row-by-row instructions — to make your own beautiful straw-like backpack completely for free.
Why You Will Love This Pattern
Before diving into the instructions, let’s talk about what makes this pattern special. A lot of knitters assume that textured or woven-looking bags require advanced techniques like wicker weaving, basket-making, or complex cable work. This pattern proves that assumption wrong. The straw-like texture is achieved using a simple combination of yarn-overs and slipped stitches that any knitter with a basic understanding of knit and purl can master. You do not need to have knitted a bag before. You do not need to be an advanced knitter.
This pattern is also genuinely free. No purchase required, no email sign-up wall, no paywalled PDF. Every instruction you need is right here on this page.
The bag is worked in the round on circular needles, which means there are no seams to sew and almost no finishing work beyond weaving in your ends and threading the drawstring. The straps are knitted as i-cord tubes that are sturdy enough to carry a loaded bag without digging into your shoulders. The base is a flat rectangle worked back and forth before you join to work the body in the round, giving the backpack a clean, flat bottom that holds its shape well.
Materials You Will Need
Gathering the right materials before you start makes the knitting process much smoother. Here is what this pattern calls for.
Yarn: Approximately 400 to 500 yards of a DK weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn. Cotton is the ideal fiber for this bag because it has very little stretch, which means the bag will hold its structure and not sag under the weight of your belongings. A raffia-inspired yarn or a cotton-linen blend will enhance the straw-like appearance beautifully. Look for yarns with a slightly matte, natural finish rather than a high-sheen mercerized cotton, as the matte texture reads more authentically as a woven material. Good color choices include natural ecru, warm sand, off-white, dusty terracotta, sage green, and warm camel. These earthy tones lean into the straw basket aesthetic.
Needles: US size 6 (4.0mm) circular needles in a 32-inch or 40-inch cable length. You will also need a set of US size 6 double-pointed needles for knitting the i-cord straps.
Notions: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds, two large locking stitch markers or safety pins, approximately two yards of cord or ribbon for the drawstring, a wooden toggle or bead for the drawstring closure (optional but lovely), and scissors.
Gauge
Gauge matters more for bags than for many other knitting projects because it determines the final size of your backpack and the density of your fabric. A loosely knitted bag will stretch and sag, while a fabric that is too tight will be stiff and uncomfortable to carry.
For this pattern, aim for 20 stitches and 28 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch. The straw stitch pattern is slightly more open than plain stockinette, so your finished fabric will have a lovely airy drape without being so open that small items fall through.
Always knit a gauge swatch before beginning. Wash and block your swatch the same way you plan to treat the finished bag, because cotton can relax and grow slightly after washing.
Finished Measurements
The finished backpack measures approximately 13 inches wide, 15 inches tall (not including the drawstring), and 4 inches deep at the base. This gives it enough capacity for a water bottle, a light jacket, a small wallet, and a few everyday essentials — the perfect day-bag size.
Abbreviations
Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used.
CO — cast on; K — knit; P — purl; YO — yarn over; Sl1 — slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn held in front; K2tog — knit 2 stitches together; PM — place marker; SM — slip marker; BO — bind off; RS — right side; WS — wrong side.
Understanding the Straw Stitch
The straw stitch, sometimes called the linen stitch or the wicker stitch depending on the variation, is the heart of this pattern. It creates a dense, horizontal fabric that closely resembles woven straw or rattan. The stitch alternates slipped stitches with yarn-overs and basic knit stitches to build up that distinctive horizontal texture.
Here is how the straw stitch works over a flat swatch so you can practice before beginning the bag.
Cast on an even number of stitches.
Row 1 (RS): K1, Sl1 wyif (with yarn in front), repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): P1, Sl1 wyib (with yarn in back), repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for the pattern.
When working in the round, both rounds become RS rounds and the pattern adjusts as follows.
Round 1: K1, Sl1 wyif repeat to end.
Round 2: Sl1 wyif, K1 repeat to end.
These two rounds, alternated, produce the staggered horizontal lines that create the straw-like fabric. It is a meditative, rhythmic stitch that moves quickly once your hands learn the sequence.
Pattern Instructions
Step 1: Knit the Base
The base is worked flat, back and forth in stockinette stitch. This gives the bag its flat, rectangular foundation.
Using your circular needles, CO 40 stitches.
Work in stockinette (knit RS rows, purl WS rows) for 60 rows, or until your piece measures approximately 4 inches wide by 13 inches long. This rectangle forms the bottom of your backpack.
Do not bind off. You will pick up stitches around the entire perimeter of this rectangle to begin knitting the body in the round.
Step 2: Pick Up Stitches and Join in the Round
This step transforms your flat base into a tube. With the right side of your base facing you, begin picking up stitches around all four edges.
Along the long edge of the base, pick up and knit 1 stitch for every 2 rows, which should give you approximately 52 stitches along each long side. Along the short edges, knit across the live stitches (40 stitches on one end) and pick up the equivalent count at the cast-on edge.
Total stitch count should be approximately 184 stitches once you have worked around the entire perimeter. Adjust your count up or down by a stitch or two if needed to make it divisible by 2, which the straw stitch requires.
Place your beginning-of-round marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches.
Step 3: Work the Body
Now the satisfying part begins. You will work the straw stitch pattern in the round for the main body of the bag.
Work the straw stitch rounds as described above, alternating round 1 and round 2, until the body measures approximately 14 inches from where you joined in the round. This will take somewhere between 90 and 100 rounds depending on your gauge, so put on a podcast or your favorite playlist and enjoy the rhythm.
If you want to add a small interior pocket, this is the moment to do it. You can knit a small rectangle of stockinette fabric separately (approximately 8 inches wide by 6 inches tall), then hand-sew it to the interior of the bag after completing the main knitting. It is optional but a lovely practical touch.
Step 4: Create Eyelets for the Drawstring
Once your body reaches the desired height, you will work one eyelet round to create a channel for the drawstring.
Eyelet Round: K2, YO, K2tog repeat from * to end of round.
Follow this immediately with two rounds of plain knit stitches.
Then work a second eyelet round: K2, YO, K2tog repeat to end.
These two eyelet rows, separated by two plain knit rounds, create two parallel rows of small holes that allow your drawstring to be threaded through and pulled from either side — one of the small design details that makes this bag look polished and intentional.
Step 5: Knit the Drawstring Casing
Work 6 rounds of plain stockinette (knit every round), then bind off all stitches loosely. Fold the casing to the inside along the eyelet rounds and loosely whipstitch it in place using your tapestry needle, taking care to keep the stitches hidden on the outside. Leave the two eyelet holes open and aligned so the drawstring can pass through cleanly.
Step 6: Knit the I-Cord Backpack Straps
The straps are knitted as i-cord using your double-pointed needles. I-cord is a brilliantly simple technique that produces a smooth, round tube of knitting that makes an excellent strap — strong, comfortable, and polished-looking.
To make i-cord: CO 4 stitches onto a double-pointed needle. Knit across all 4 stitches. Without turning your work, slide the stitches to the right end of the needle. Pull the working yarn firmly across the back of the stitches and knit across again. Repeat these two steps — slide, pull, knit — until your i-cord measures 48 inches long. Bind off.
Make two straps of equal length.
If you want padded straps for extra comfort, you can thread a length of thin cotton ribbon or soft cord through the center of the i-cord tube before attaching it to give it a slightly firmer, more padded feel.
Step 7: Attach the Straps
The strap placement is what determines whether your backpack hangs correctly and distributes weight evenly. Lay your finished bag on a flat surface and fold it gently to identify the front and back panels.
For each strap, you will attach one end to the top of the back panel (near the drawstring casing) and the other end to the bottom of the back panel (at the base). Use the same yarn and your tapestry needle to sew each strap end securely, working several passes through the fabric and looping around the strap to anchor it firmly. A few extra reinforcing stitches at each attachment point will ensure your straps can handle the weight of your everyday essentials.
Position the straps approximately 3 inches apart from each other at both the top and bottom of the back panel. The wider the spacing at the base, the more the weight will be distributed across your back.
Finishing
With your straps attached and all ends woven in securely, it is time to add the drawstring. Cut two lengths of your cord or ribbon, each approximately 36 inches long. Thread one length through the eyelet channel starting from the left side, going all the way around the bag and exiting from the left side again. Thread the second length starting from the right side. When both ends of each piece of cord exit from their respective sides, tie a knot at each end or thread a bead or toggle through for decoration and security. Pulling both cords simultaneously closes the bag neatly.
Block your finished bag by lightly dampening it with cool water, reshaping it to your desired dimensions, and allowing it to air dry completely. Cotton responds beautifully to blocking and your straw stitch fabric will relax into a crisp, even texture that really shows off the pattern.
Tips for Success
A few practical notes that will make your knitting experience smoother. Use a yarn with high stitch definition so the slipped-stitch texture really pops. Fuzzy or heavily textured yarns can obscure the pattern. When working the straw stitch in the round, keep your floats — the strands of yarn carried behind the slipped stitches — loose enough that the fabric does not pucker. If you notice the fabric pulling slightly, go up half a needle size. Keep your tension consistent; because the straw stitch alternates between active stitches and slipped stitches, it is easy to unconsciously knit more tightly or loosely than usual. Check in with yourself every few rounds.
Customizing Your Backpack
One of the great joys of knitting your own accessories is the freedom to customize. You can make this bag larger by casting on more stitches for the base and picking up more stitches around the perimeter. You can make it smaller and tighter for a mini backpack silhouette. You can add a leather base to make it more structured. You can swap the cotton yarn for a linen-cotton blend to get an even more pronounced natural fiber texture. You can add crochet flowers, knitted leaves, or a leather tassel to the drawstring for a boho touch. The pattern is simple and solid enough to serve as a canvas for your creativity.
A Note on Wearing Your Handknit Bag
Handknit cotton bags are remarkably durable with proper care. Wash yours in cool water with a gentle detergent, either by hand or on a delicate machine cycle inside a mesh laundry bag. Lay flat to dry rather than hanging, which can stretch the fabric. Avoid overloading the bag with heavy items repeatedly, as this will stretch the straps over time. With reasonable care, your straw-like knitted backpack can last for many seasons and will only get softer and more beautiful with washing.
There you have it — a complete, free knitting pattern for a straw-like easy backpack that is as fun to make as it is to wear. Whether this is your first bag knitting project or your twentieth, this pattern offers something satisfying: a quick rhythm, a beautiful texture, and a finished object you will genuinely use and love. Happy knitting.
