Square One Project Bag: An Easy Drawstring Linen Stitch Crochet Pouch
If you’ve been crocheting for any length of time, you’ve probably found yourself hunting for the perfect project bag — something small enough to toss in your purse, sturdy enough to hold a skein and a hook, and pretty enough that you don’t mind pulling it out in public. I’ve been there too, and after trying every tote, zippered pouch, and repurposed cosmetics bag I could find, I finally decided to just make my own. The result is what I’m calling the Square One Project Bag: a simple, satisfying drawstring pouch worked in the linen stitch that’s beginner-friendly, endlessly customizable, and genuinely useful from the very first day you finish it.
This post walks you through everything — the pattern itself, tips for working the linen stitch smoothly, yarn and hook recommendations, and ideas for making this pouch your own. Whether you’ve never tried the linen stitch before or you’re looking for a quick make to use up some beautiful cotton or linen yarn, this is the project for you.
Why the Linen Stitch?
The linen stitch (sometimes called the moss stitch or linen stitch in rows) is one of those techniques that looks far more complicated than it actually is. The fabric it creates is tight, structured, and has a gorgeous woven texture that feels right at home on a bag. Because the stitches interlock so closely, the fabric has very little stretch, which is exactly what you want for something meant to hold hooks, scissors, stitch markers, and a small skein of yarn.
Beyond its practical advantages, the linen stitch is meditative to work. Once you get the rhythm — single crochet, chain one, skip a stitch, repeat — you’ll find yourself flying through rows without even thinking about it. That rhythmic quality makes it ideal for a project you can pick up and put down easily, which is especially fitting for a project bag.
The stitch also works up beautifully in any fiber. Linen and cotton yarns showcase the woven quality of the fabric in a way that acrylic doesn’t quite capture, though a quality cotton-acrylic blend works wonderfully too if you want a little more softness and ease of care.
What You’ll Need
Before you get started, gather your supplies. One of the things I love most about this pattern is how little you actually need.
Yarn: Approximately 150–200 yards of a DK or worsted weight yarn. I used a 100% cotton yarn in a warm off-white for the sample shown, but linen yarn, linen-cotton blends, and even a smooth wool DK would all work beautifully. For a sturdier bag with a more structured feel, opt for 100% linen or a linen-cotton blend. For something softer and more relaxed, a mercerized cotton is lovely.
Hook: A 4.0 mm (G) or 4.5 mm (7) crochet hook. I recommend going slightly smaller than what your yarn label suggests because the linen stitch benefits from a tighter gauge, and you want the fabric firm enough that small items won’t poke through.
Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, two pieces of cotton cord or ribbon approximately 36 inches each for the drawstring (I used a 5mm natural cotton macramé cord), and stitch markers if you like to track your rows.
Finished Size: Approximately 7 inches wide by 8 inches tall when laid flat (before adding the drawstring), which gives you an opening of roughly 14 inches around when the bag is open. This is large enough for a full skein of sock yarn, a few hooks, and your small notions.
A Note on Gauge
Because this is a functional bag and not a garment, gauge doesn’t need to be exact — but it does matter. If your fabric is too loose, the bag will be floppy and small items will slip through. If it’s too tight, the bag will feel stiff and the drawstring channel may be hard to work. Aim for approximately 18 stitches and 20 rows per 4 inches in the linen stitch with your chosen yarn and hook.
To check your gauge, work a small swatch of at least 20 stitches and 22 rows, block it lightly if needed, and measure. Adjust your hook size accordingly. Going up a hook size will give you a looser, more flexible fabric. Going down will give you something stiffer and more structured.
Pattern Abbreviations
Before we dive in, here’s a quick key to the abbreviations used throughout:
ch — chain
sc — single crochet
ch-1 sp — chain one space
sk — skip
sl st — slip stitch
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
rep — repeat
The Square One Project Bag Pattern
Starting Chain
Begin by chaining 51. This foundation chain creates the first row of the bag’s front panel. (If you’d like a larger or smaller bag, just chain any odd number of stitches.)
Row 1 (RS):
Insert your hook into the second chain from the hook and work 1 sc. Chain 1, skip the next chain, work 1 sc into the following chain. Continue across in this manner — sc, ch 1, skip 1, sc — until you reach the end of your foundation chain. You should end with a sc worked into the final chain. Turn.
This row establishes the linen stitch pattern. The key here is consistent tension: your chain-1 spaces should look neat and even, sitting right above the skipped chains beneath them.
Row 2 (WS):
Chain 1, turn. Work 1 sc into the first stitch. Chain 1, skip the ch-1 space, work 1 sc into the next sc. Continue in pattern across — sc, ch 1, skip the ch-1 sp, sc into the next sc — to the end of the row. Work your final sc into the turning chain from the previous row. Turn.
This is the only row you’ll need to remember for the body of the bag. Repeat Row 2 until your piece measures approximately 8.5 inches from the foundation chain, ending with a wrong side row.
Drawstring Channel
The drawstring channel is worked with a slightly different construction to create a tunnel through which your cord will pass.
Row 1 of Channel: Chain 3, turn. Skip the first stitch, work 1 dc into the ch-1 space, ch 1, work 1 dc into the next sc. Continue across — ch 1, dc into ch-1 sp, dc into sc — to end. You’ll be creating a row of double crochet stitches with chain-1 spaces between them, forming a row of visible eyelets. Turn.
Row 2 of Channel: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 sc into the first dc. Chain 1, skip the ch-1 sp, sc into the next dc. Continue in pattern across, working sc and ch-1 spaces to re-establish the linen stitch. End with a sc into the top of the turning chain. Turn.
Rows 3–4 of Channel: Work two more rows in the linen stitch pattern (as Row 2 of the body). This gives the channel enough depth to hold the drawstring comfortably without it pulling at the fabric.
Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Making the Second Panel
Repeat the entire pattern — body plus drawstring channel — to create a second identical panel. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Assembling the Bag
Lay your two panels flat, wrong sides together, making sure the drawstring channel rows are aligned at the top. Using your yarn needle and a length of yarn, whipstitch or slip stitch the two panels together along the bottom edge and both side edges. Take care to keep your seaming even and to stitch through the corresponding stitches on each panel rather than through the chains.
When seaming, work just below the drawstring channel rows so the channel itself is left open at both sides — this is where your drawstring cord will enter and exit the bag. You’ll have a small opening at each side seam level with the channel.
Once all three sides are seamed, turn your bag right side out. The linen stitch fabric looks beautiful on both sides, but the right side has slightly more definition in the chain-1 spaces.
Adding the Drawstring
Cut two lengths of cotton cord or ribbon, each approximately 36 inches. Using a large safety pin or a small bodkin as a guide, thread one length of cord all the way around the inside of the channel, entering from the left side opening and exiting from the same left side opening after going all the way around. Pull both ends even and tie them together with a secure knot, or thread them through a small wooden bead if you’d like a decorative touch.
Thread the second cord starting from the right side opening, going all the way around the channel in the same way, and exiting from the right side opening. Knot or bead the ends in the same manner.
When you pull both drawstring cords outward simultaneously, the bag closes evenly from both sides, creating a gathered, rounded top rather than one that pulls only to one side. This two-cord method is the most practical and attractive finish for a project bag drawstring.
Blocking Your Bag
Linen stitch fabric in cotton or linen yarn responds beautifully to blocking. Wet your finished bag thoroughly, squeeze out the excess water gently without wringing, then shape it to your desired dimensions and lay it flat to dry. You’ll notice the fabric relaxes slightly and the stitch definition becomes even more pronounced. The bag will feel softer and more pliable after a good wet block, and any slight unevenness in your tension will smooth right out.
Wool yarn bags can be blocked the same way, but take care with temperature if you’re using a superwash or non-superwash blend.
Yarn Suggestions and Color Ideas
Part of what makes this bag such a satisfying project is the opportunity to play with yarn and color. Because the linen stitch creates a relatively neutral, woven-looking background, it lets the color of the yarn do most of the talking.
For a classic, natural look, reach for an undyed or lightly dyed linen or cotton in ecru, stone, or a warm natural white. These tones complement the woven texture of the stitch and give the bag a relaxed, artisan feel that looks beautiful with wooden beads on the drawstring.
For something more playful, try a bold, saturated cotton in terracotta, indigo, or forest green. The linen stitch shows off solid and semi-solid colorways particularly well because the interlocking nature of the stitch creates interesting light and shadow that changes across the surface.
You can also use two colors in alternating rows for a subtle stripe effect. Work two rows in your main color and two rows in a contrasting color throughout the body of the bag. The transitions blend softly because of the chain-one spaces, giving you something that reads more like a tweed than a strict stripe.
Tips for Working the Linen Stitch
A few things will make your experience with this stitch much smoother.
Work into the stitch, not the space. In the linen stitch, it can be tempting to accidentally insert your hook into the chain-one space rather than the single crochet stitch below it, or vice versa. Take a moment at the start of each row to confirm you’re working into the right place. The sc stitches are the raised “heads” you can see at the top of each stitch; the ch-1 spaces are the little holes between them.
Maintain consistent chain tension. Loose chains will make your ch-1 spaces look large and uneven, while tight chains can cause the fabric to pucker. If you struggle with uneven chain tension, try wrapping the yarn around your index finger one extra time to give yourself more control.
Count your stitches at the end of the first few rows. It’s easy to accidentally skip or add a stitch in the linen stitch, especially while you’re learning the rhythm. A quick count after every few rows will catch any mistakes before they compound.
Use a stitch marker to mark your right side. Because the linen stitch looks similar on both sides, dropping a stitch marker on the right side at the beginning helps you keep track of which side is which, especially if you put the project down and come back to it later.
Customizing Your Square One Project Bag
Once you’ve got the basic bag down, there are so many ways to make it your own.
You can make a larger version by increasing your starting chain and working more rows. For a bag that fits a full 100-gram skein of worsted weight yarn along with a full set of hooks, try a starting chain of 71 and work until the body measures 10 inches before starting the drawstring channel.
A smaller version makes a wonderful pencil case, makeup pouch, or crayon bag for a child. Start with a chain of 31 and work until the body measures 5 inches.
Adding a small crochet tag or label is a lovely touch. Work a small rectangle of linen stitch, fold it in half, and stitch it into one of your side seams with a word or initial embroidered onto it.
You can also experiment with the drawstring material. Leather lacing, satin ribbon, velvet ribbon, braided embroidery floss, or a simple I-cord worked in a contrasting color all make beautiful alternatives to macramé cord.
Caring for Your Project Bag
Cotton and linen project bags are wonderfully easy to care for. Toss yours in the washing machine on a gentle cycle with cold water, or hand wash it in cool water with a drop of mild soap. Lay it flat to dry and reshape it while it’s damp. Because the linen stitch fabric is so structured, it holds its shape well wash after wash and just gets softer and more beautiful with use.
Final Thoughts
The Square One Project Bag earns its name because it’s the kind of project you can return to again and again, at any skill level, with any yarn, for any purpose. It’s genuinely one of those patterns where the process is as satisfying as the finished object — the rhythm of the linen stitch is calming, the assembly is quick, and the result is something you’ll actually reach for every day.
Whether you’re making this for yourself to corral your crochet notions, stitching one up as a gift for a crafty friend, or using it as a practice piece to master the linen stitch before tackling a larger project, I hope you enjoy every stitch of it. The best project bag is always the one you made yourself, and this one starts with exactly where you are right now: square one.
Happy crocheting.
