Scrap Yarn Crochet Purse – Zero Waste Bag Pattern

If you’ve been crocheting for any length of time, you almost certainly have a basket, bin, or overflowing tote bag full of yarn scraps. Those half-used skeins, leftover balls from finished projects, and lonely orphan strands that never quite found a home — they accumulate faster than we expect, and getting rid of them feels wasteful. This scrap yarn crochet purse pattern is the answer to all of that beautiful, colorful chaos. It’s a zero waste bag project that transforms every last bit of yarn into something genuinely useful and seriously stylish.

Whether your scraps are bulky, worsted, or a mix of everything in between, this pattern is designed to be flexible enough to work with what you have. The goal isn’t a perfectly uniform bag — it’s a one-of-a-kind purse that tells the story of every project that came before it. Let’s dig in.

Why Scrap Yarn Projects Matter

Before we get to the actual pattern, let’s talk about why zero waste crochet projects like this one are worth making in the first place.

The textile industry is one of the most wasteful on the planet, and while handmade crafting is already a more sustainable alternative to fast fashion, even yarn crafters generate significant fiber waste. Leftover yarn from projects often ends up in landfills, donated to thrift stores where it may sit for years, or simply stuffed in a closet. When you commit to using up your scraps intentionally, you’re participating in a genuinely circular approach to crafting.

Beyond the environmental angle, scrap yarn projects are just plain economical. You’ve already paid for that yarn. Making something beautiful with it — something you’ll actually carry into the world every day — means you’re getting full value from your investment. There’s also something deeply satisfying about seeing your stash shrink as a finished object takes shape.

And let’s not overlook the creative challenge. Working with scraps forces you to think differently about color and texture. You can’t rely on a perfectly curated color palette purchased all at once. Instead, you’re making decisions on the fly, trusting your eye, and often landing on combinations you’d never have chosen intentionally. Some of the most beautiful crochet pieces come out of exactly that kind of happy accident.

Materials and Tools

Because this is a scrap yarn project, the materials list is intentionally loose. Here’s what you’ll need, along with some guidance for making smart substitutions.

Yarn: Any combination of worsted weight (size 4) yarn works best for structure, though you can blend in some bulky (size 5) here and there. Avoid mixing weights that are too drastically different in the same row, as this can create an uneven fabric. You’ll need approximately 200–300 yards total depending on the size of bag you make. This is a great estimate to get you started, but you likely have more than enough in your scrap bin already.

Hook: A size 5.0 mm (H/8) crochet hook is a good starting point for most worsted weight yarn blends. Adjust up slightly (5.5 mm) if your scraps run thinner, or down slightly (4.5 mm) if they run thicker.

Lining fabric (optional): A quarter yard of cotton quilting fabric or a repurposed tote bag liner adds structure and keeps small items from slipping through any gaps in the crochet fabric. This is optional but highly recommended for a purse you plan to use regularly.

Lining thread and needle: If you’re adding a fabric lining, you’ll need a hand sewing needle and coordinating thread.

Stitch markers: A handful of locking stitch markers helps you track rounds, especially once your color changes get going and everything starts to blur together.

Scissors: Any sharp pair works.

Yarn needle: For weaving in ends — though with a scrap project, you’ll be doing quite a bit of this, and we have tips for managing it below.

Handles: You can crochet handles directly from your scraps, use leather or faux leather purse handles from a craft store, or repurpose handles from a bag you’re no longer using. Bamboo ring handles also look gorgeous with this pattern and add an artisan feel.

Gauge and Sizing

Gauge: Approximately 14 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches in single crochet with worsted weight yarn and a 5.0 mm hook.

Finished size (as written): Approximately 11 inches wide x 9 inches tall, not including handles.

Because this is a scrap project and the whole point is flexibility, don’t stress too much about matching gauge exactly. If you want a smaller bag — a clutch or coin purse — just work fewer foundation chain stitches. If you want something larger — a market tote or beach bag — increase your starting chain and add more rounds. The pattern structure works at virtually any scale.

Pattern Notes

This bag is worked in two flat panels that are then joined together at the sides and bottom. The handles are either added afterward or replaced with your preferred attachment method. This construction makes it easy to keep track of your color changes and gives you a lot of creative flexibility as you work.

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
st = stitch
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
rep = repeat
sk = skip

Reading the pattern: Instructions in parentheses are to be repeated the number of times indicated. Work into both loops unless otherwise stated.

The Pattern

Front and Back Panels (Make 2)

Foundation: With your first scrap color, ch 40.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in the second ch from hook and in each ch across. (39 sc) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (39 sc) Turn.

Rows 1 and 2 establish your base fabric. Continue working Row 2 as written, changing colors whenever you like or whenever a strand runs out. The color change method is explained below.

Continue repeating Row 2 until your panel measures approximately 9 inches from the foundation chain. At the end of your last row, do not fasten off — you’ll use the working yarn to join your panels or to work the border.

Color Changing

Changing colors in single crochet is simple and satisfying, and with scraps, you’ll be doing it often.

To change color at the end of a row: Work the last single crochet of the row until two loops remain on your hook. Drop the current color (leave a tail of at least 6 inches), pick up your new color, and pull it through both loops to complete the stitch. Turn and continue with the new color.

You can also change color in the middle of a row for a more patchwork effect. Work to your desired change point, then use the same method — two loops on hook, drop old color, pull new color through.

Don’t cut the old color if you’re going to come back to it within a few rows. You can carry it loosely along the edge or the back of your work. For scraps you won’t use again, cut and leave a 6-inch tail to weave in later.

A note on weaving in ends: With a scrap project, you will have a lot of ends. Two tips that help enormously: First, weave your ends in as you go rather than saving them for the end. It takes slightly more time in the moment but saves you from an overwhelming finishing session. Second, weave horizontally through the back loops of your stitches for at least an inch, then change direction and weave back. This locks the end in place without it ever showing on the right side of your fabric.

The Border

Once both panels are complete, add a single crochet border to each one. This evens out the edges and makes joining much cleaner.

Border Round: With RS facing, join yarn in any corner stitch. Ch 1. Work sc evenly around the entire panel — 1 sc in each stitch across the top and bottom, and approximately 1 sc for every row along the sides (adjust as needed to keep the fabric lying flat, adding extra stitches at corners if needed). Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Joining the Panels

Place your two panels with wrong sides together (right sides facing out). Using a yarn needle and a coordinating yarn, use the mattress stitch or a slip stitch join to seam along the two side edges and the bottom edge. Leave the top open.

Slip stitch join (visible, decorative): Hold panels together with WS facing in. Insert hook through both layers at the corner, join yarn, ch 1, and slip stitch along the edge. This creates a visible ridge on the outside and gives the bag a fun, graphic look that ties in nicely with the scrap aesthetic.

Mattress stitch join (invisible): Thread a yarn needle and work through the outermost loops of corresponding stitches on each panel, pulling snugly every inch or so. This creates an invisible seam and gives the bag a more polished finish.

Neither method is better — it depends entirely on the look you’re going for.

Adding Handles

Crocheted handles: Using your sturdiest or most abundant scrap color, join yarn at the top edge of the front panel, approximately 3 inches in from one side edge. Ch 50 (or adjust for longer or shorter handles). Join to the top edge again approximately 3 inches in from the other side edge. Work 2–3 more rows of sc over the chain to build the handle up and give it structure. Repeat on the back panel. Weave in all ends securely.

Bamboo ring handles: Insert your bamboo ring through the top edge of the bag. Fold the top edge down over the ring by about half an inch, encasing the ring inside the fold. Using a yarn needle and matching yarn, whip stitch along the fold to secure it. Repeat on the back. These handles give the bag a beautiful, handcrafted feel and are extremely durable.

Purchased handles: Leather or faux leather handles typically have small holes or slits at the ends for attachment. Use a tapestry needle and sturdy thread or thin yarn to sew them to the inside top edge of the bag, reinforcing with several passes.

Optional: Fabric Lining

A fabric lining transforms this from a lovely handmade bag into a truly practical everyday purse. Here’s how to add one.

Cut two pieces of lining fabric, each measuring 12 inches wide by 10 inches tall (adding a half inch seam allowance on all sides). With right sides together, stitch the two pieces together along the sides and bottom, leaving the top open. Turn under a half inch at the top edge and press. Slip the lining into the bag with wrong sides together, so that you can’t see the inside of either the lining or the crochet. Pin the top folded edge of the lining just inside the top of the bag, approximately a quarter inch below the top edge. Whip stitch the lining in place by hand all the way around. That’s it — you now have a lined purse.

If you want to add an interior pocket, cut a rectangle of fabric, fold the top edge under, hem it, then fold the remaining three sides under and topstitch it to the lining piece before you assemble the lining. A single interior pocket sized about 4 inches by 5 inches is perfect for a phone or small notebook.

Design Variations

One of the most fun things about this pattern is how differently it can look depending on the scraps you happen to have. Here are a few intentional variations to consider.

Classic stripe: Use scraps in similar weights but in a sequential color progression — lights to darks, or in rainbow order. The result looks deliberate and striking despite being made entirely from leftovers.

Random patchwork: Embrace the chaos. Change colors every row, every few stitches, or whenever a strand runs out. The more variety in your color mix, the more vibrant and eclectic the result.

Texture play: Mix single crochet with rows of half double crochet or even rows of shell stitch. This adds texture depth and uses up shorter straps of yarn that might not be enough for an entire row at the same stitch height.

Planned color blocks: Work several inches in one color before switching. This gives a more graphic, modern look and tends to photograph beautifully.

Fringe bottom: Before joining your panels, add a row of fringe to the bottom edge of each panel by cutting yarn scraps into 8-inch lengths, folding in half, and using a hook to pull them through the bottom edge. Trim to even lengths. This is a great way to use even the tiniest scraps.

Tips for Working with Multiple Scrap Yarns

Working with scraps is liberating, but it comes with its own set of small challenges. Here are a few things that make the process smoother.

Sort your scraps by weight before you start. Even if you’re not being strict about color, keeping the yarn weights similar within a project will give you a more even, professional-looking fabric. A row of thin fingering weight next to a row of super bulky will create obvious bumps and distortions.

Measure your scraps loosely before you start. A strand that’s only two yards long might give you a quarter of a row — enough for a fun accent stripe but not enough to start a new section. Group your longer lengths together for the main body of the bag and use shorter pieces for the accent rows.

Embrace imperfection. This is a zero waste project, which means it was always going to be a little bit unpredictable. The color that doesn’t quite match, the stripe that’s only one row wide because you ran out — these aren’t flaws. They’re the whole point.

Keep a small bowl or box beside you while you crochet to collect your cut tails as you go. This keeps them out of your work and makes cleanup easier. Any tails too short to weave in properly can still be used as stuffing for amigurumi or pincushions — truly zero waste.

Finishing and Care

Once your bag is assembled, give it a good block if needed. Wet blocking is ideal — submerge the bag in cool water, gently squeeze out the excess without wringing, and lay it flat to dry in the shape you want. This evens out any uneven tension from the color changes and gives the bag a more finished, professional look.

For care: Most acrylic and acrylic blend scraps are machine washable on a gentle cycle, but if your bag contains any natural fibers (wool, cotton, linen, alpaca), hand washing in cool water is the safest approach. Air dry flat. If you’ve added a fabric lining, check whether the lining fabric is also machine washable before tossing the whole thing in.

Final Thoughts

There is something incredibly satisfying about looking at a finished object and knowing that every strand of yarn in it was already sitting in your house — already purchased, already loved through one project, and now given a second life as something beautiful and functional. This scrap yarn crochet purse is exactly that kind of project.

It’s forgiving for beginners because there’s no pressure to get the color changes “right.” It’s engaging for experienced crocheters because the design decisions are constant and creative. It’s genuinely sustainable because it uses what you already have and sends nothing to the landfill. And it’s practical because at the end of it, you have a real, usable purse.

If you make this bag, we’d love to see it. Tag your photos on Instagram so we can spot your scrap combinations in the wild. And if you have questions about adapting the pattern to your specific stash situation, drop them in the comments — we’re always happy to help you figure out how to make it work with what you’ve got.

Happy crocheting — and happy destashing.