Satchel Grande Knit Bag — Free Knitting Pattern

There is something deeply satisfying about carrying a bag you made with your own hands. It holds your things, yes, but it also holds hours of quiet work, the particular texture of yarn you chose on a Tuesday afternoon, and the small thrill of someone asking where you got it. The Satchel Grande Knit Bag is that kind of project. It is a structured, roomy, genuinely useful bag that knits up beautifully in a bulky or chunky yarn, and once you finish it, you will wonder how you ever left the house without one.

This free pattern walks you through every step of the construction, from the base to the flap, with simple shaping and an approachable stitch count that makes it suitable for confident beginners and a pleasurable weekend project for more experienced knitters. The finished bag has a classic satchel silhouette — a flat rectangular body, a fold-over flap, and a long adjustable strap — but the texture and character it develops depends entirely on the yarn you choose. A tweedy wool gives it a heritage, countryside feel. A smooth cotton makes it crisp and summery. A heathered chunky in charcoal or camel looks like something you would find in a very expensive boutique.

Let us get into everything you need to know.

About This Pattern

The Satchel Grande is knit flat in one main piece, then seamed at the sides. The base is reinforced by working through both loops of a few foundation rows, and the strap is knit as a long i-cord or a narrow flat strip, depending on your preference. A magnetic snap or a large button closure gives it a polished, finished look. There is no complicated stitch work here — if you can knit and purl, you can make this bag.

The pattern uses a combination of stockinette and seed stitch to create gentle texture contrast between the body panels and the borders. Seed stitch along the edges and flap not only looks lovely but also helps prevent rolling, which is always a welcome benefit when you are working with a wool that wants to curl. The result is a bag that lies flat, holds its shape, and behaves itself.

Materials

Yarn: Approximately 250–320 yards of bulky weight yarn (weight 5 or 6). The exact yardage will depend on how large you make your bag and whether you choose the extended strap option. A single skein of many bulky yarns will be enough for the body; you may need a second skein for the strap. Good choices include Cascade 128 Superwash, Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick, Paintbox Simply Chunky, or any yarn you love that falls in the bulky range.

Needles: US size 10 (6mm) straight or circular needles, or the size needed to achieve gauge. If you like a tighter fabric for a sturdier bag, you can go down a needle size. If you want a softer, slightly more draped bag, go up.

Notions:
One magnetic snap set (18mm or 20mm works well) or one large decorative button plus a small piece of leather or felt for backing on the inside of the flap. A yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends. Stitch markers. A ruler or tape measure. Optional: a thin piece of plastic canvas or stiff interfacing cut to the shape of the base if you want extra structure.

Gauge: 12 stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, blocked. Gauge is not critical for a bag, but it will affect the finished size, so a quick swatch is worthwhile if you want to match dimensions closely.

Finished Dimensions

The body of the bag measures approximately 13 inches wide by 10 inches tall before the flap, with the flap adding another 5 inches. The depth of the bag is approximately 3 inches. The strap, made to full length, measures around 48–52 inches, which is long enough to wear as a crossbody. If you prefer a shorter shoulder bag strap, simply stop knitting the strap when it reaches your preferred length.

Abbreviations

Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used:

K — knit
P — purl
K2tog — knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
Ssk — slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
St(s) — stitch or stitches
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
Rep — repeat
PM — place marker
SM — slip marker

A Note on Yarn Substitution

Because this is a bag and not a garment, you have a great deal of freedom in your yarn choice. The main thing to consider is fiber content and how it affects structure. Wool and wool blends have natural memory and will hold the shape of the bag well over time. Cotton is heavier and can cause the bag to stretch slightly under load, though it gives a beautiful, crisp look when new. Acrylic is durable and easy to care for, which matters a great deal for a bag that will spend its life being tossed onto chairs and dragged through grocery stores. A blend of wool and acrylic is often the sweet spot for this type of project — you get the structure and warmth of wool with the washability and durability of acrylic.

Avoid anything too loosely spun or too fine for this project. A single-ply laceweight is not going to give you the fabric density a bag needs. Stick to plied yarns in the bulky range and you will be happy with the result.

Pattern Instructions

The Main Body

The main body of the bag is worked as one long flat piece that will fold at the base. You knit the back panel first, then the base, then the front panel, all in one continuous piece. Then you seam the sides.

Cast on 40 stitches using your preferred long-tail or cable cast-on method.

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 to end. (Seed stitch row)
Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 to end.
Rows 3–4: Repeat rows 1 and 2.

You now have 4 rows of seed stitch at the bottom edge of your back panel. This will become the top edge of the back of the bag once everything is assembled.

Switch to stockinette stitch:
Row 5 (RS): Knit to end.
Row 6 (WS): Purl to end.

Continue in stockinette until the piece measures 10 inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Base Section:

Now you will knit the base of the bag. To add density and structure here, work the next 14 rows by knitting every row (garter stitch). This creates a firmer base that will stand up to the weight of whatever you put inside.

Rows 1–14 (Base): Knit every row.

The base section should measure approximately 3 inches. If you want a slightly deeper bag, add 2 more rows here.

Front Panel:

Switch back to stockinette:
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Continue until the front panel measures 10 inches from where you started it (at the end of the base), ending with a WS row.

Seed stitch border:
Rows 1–4: Work K1, P1 across (adjusting for seed stitch alignment as established).

Bind off all stitches loosely.

The Flap

The flap is worked separately and seamed to the top of the back panel, or you can pick up stitches directly from the cast-on edge if you prefer a seamless join.

Pick up and knit 40 stitches along the top edge of the back panel (the cast-on edge with the seed stitch border).

Rows 1–4: Work in seed stitch (K1, P1 across, alternating correctly for seed stitch pattern).

Row 5 (RS): K2, work seed stitch to last 2 sts, K2.
Row 6 (WS): P2, work seed stitch to last 2 sts, P2.

Continue as established, keeping the 2 outermost stitches in stockinette and the rest in seed stitch, until the flap measures 4 inches from where you picked up.

Flap Shaping:
Decrease Row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (38 sts)
Next Row (WS): Work as established.
Decrease Row 2 (RS): K1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (36 sts)
Next Row (WS): Work as established.

Continue decreasing every RS row in this manner until you have 28 stitches remaining.

Work 4 more rows in seed stitch without decreasing.

Bind off loosely.

The Strap

The strap is worked as a narrow flat strip in seed stitch. Cast on 7 stitches.

Every Row: K1, P1, K1 to end.

Continue until the strap measures 52 inches, or your desired length. Bind off. Because seed stitch lies flat and does not curl, this strap will hold its shape beautifully without any extra finishing.

For an i-cord strap instead, cast on 4 stitches on double-pointed needles and work i-cord until it reaches your desired length. An i-cord strap gives a more rounded, ropelike look and is slightly narrower, which some people find more comfortable over the shoulder.

The Side Panels (Optional Gusset)

If you want a more structured three-dimensional bag rather than a flat envelope style, you can add simple gusset side panels. Cast on 10 stitches and work in seed stitch until the piece measures 10 inches. Make two of these. You will seam them between the front and back panels when assembling the bag.

Assembly

Lay your main body piece flat with the wrong side facing up. Fold it so that the base section sits at the bottom and the two panel sections meet at the top. The front and back panels should be the same height. If they are slightly uneven, block the piece gently to even them out before seaming.

Using your yarn needle and a length of matching yarn, seam the two side edges together using mattress stitch. Mattress stitch creates an invisible seam on the right side of the fabric and is well worth the extra few minutes it takes to learn. Work from the bottom fold upward on both sides.

If you are using gusset panels, pin them in place before seaming to ensure even distribution, then seam along all four edges of each gusset.

Turn the bag right side out and press gently with a damp cloth if your yarn allows it.

Attach the strap by sewing each end securely to the inside top edge of the bag, one end on each side. Use a square stitch pattern to reinforce the attachment points, going over the seam several times. This is a bag that will carry weight, so do not skimp on securing the strap.

Adding the Closure

A magnetic snap is the most practical closure for a bag like this. Mark the center of the flap and the corresponding spot on the front panel. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, attach the two halves of the snap, backing each side with a small square of felt or leather on the inside to distribute the load and prevent tearing. Push the prongs through the fabric, through the backing piece, and fold them flat.

If you prefer a button closure, sew a large button (28–32mm works well at this scale) to the center front of the bag, about 1.5 inches from the top edge. Then create a button loop at the center of the flap’s bound-off edge by crocheting a small chain or sewing a loop of yarn or ribbon.

Blocking and Finishing

Fill the bag loosely with plastic bags or a folded towel to give it its shape, then mist it lightly with water and allow it to dry completely before using. This step makes a real difference in the finished look — it evens out the fabric, sets the seams, and gives the bag that crisp, intentional quality that distinguishes a handmade bag from a homemade one.

Weave in all ends carefully and trim them close. Because this bag will be handled and stressed more than a garment, it is worth weaving in ends over at least an inch of fabric in two directions to prevent them from working loose.

If you want to add a lining, cut two pieces of fabric to the dimensions of the front and back panels plus a seam allowance, sew them together with the gusset width accounted for, and slip the lining inside the bag with the wrong sides of both together. Hand stitch the lining to the inside of the bag along the top edge, turning under the raw fabric edge as you go.

Tips for Success

The single most useful thing you can do for this project is to use a stitch marker at each side edge of the main body panel. This keeps your stitch count honest and makes it easy to find the seaming line during assembly.

If you find that the body of your bag feels too loose or open when you hold it up, try going down a needle size on your next make. A denser fabric holds its shape better and stands up to wear more gracefully. For bags specifically, slightly tight gauge is nearly always better than loose gauge.

Consider adding a small interior pocket by knitting a rectangle in a coordinating or contrasting yarn and hand stitching it to the inside front panel before adding the lining. A pocket just large enough for a phone and a card is endlessly useful in a bag this size.

If you want a shorter bag — something closer to a clutch style — simply reduce the number of rows in the front and back panels proportionally. The base and flap dimensions can remain the same.

Ways to Customize

This pattern is a very willing canvas for personalization. A color-blocked version — working the front panel in one color and the back and flap in another — looks graphic and modern. Stripes worked across the panels in two or three complementary colors give it a relaxed, casual energy. If you are comfortable with intarsia or duplicate stitch, you can add a small motif to the front panel before assembly.

Fringe along the bottom edge of the flap is a fun addition that takes only a few minutes and transforms the bag into something that feels much more boho and expressive. Cut lengths of yarn twice the desired fringe length, fold each one in half, and pull the loop through the edge of the flap with a crochet hook, then pass the ends through the loop and pull tight.

Hardware is another way to elevate the look significantly. Swapping a simple sewn strap attachment for a small D-ring and lobster clasp turns the bag into something that looks genuinely professional, and it allows you to detach the strap when you want to use the bag as a clutch.

Skill Notes

This pattern is rated as intermediate beginner. You should be comfortable with cast-ons, basic knit and purl stitches, simple decreases, and mattress stitch seaming before you start. If seaming is new to you, take ten minutes to practice on a swatch before you commit to the bag — it is a technique that clicks very quickly and will serve you well in every project that follows.

The total knitting time for an experienced knitter working in evenings will be roughly four to six hours for the body plus an additional two to three hours for the strap. Beginners should plan for a comfortable weekend project, perhaps ten hours spread across two days.

Final Thoughts

The Satchel Grande Knit Bag is the kind of pattern you will come back to again and again, in different yarns and different colorways, for yourself and for everyone on your gift list. It requires no specialty skills, no expensive notions, and no hours of complicated shaping — just steady knitting, a little patience at the seaming stage, and the genuine pleasure of making something useful from scratch.

Pick up your needles, choose a yarn that makes you happy, and start knitting. Your new favorite bag is closer than you think.