Mosu Bag Free Crochet Pattern: Step-by-Step Guide for a Beautiful Textured Tote

If you’ve been scrolling through crochet inspiration lately, you’ve probably noticed the Mosu bag popping up everywhere — and for very good reason. This stunning tote combines a satisfying texture with a practical, open-top silhouette that works just as well at the farmers market as it does on a beach vacation. The best part? You don’t need to spend a single penny on a pattern. This complete free crochet pattern for the Mosu bag walks you through every step, from choosing your yarn to finishing off the handles with a polished edge.

Whether you’re an intermediate crocheter looking for a weekend project or someone who’s been making granny squares for years and wants to try something with a little more structure, the Mosu bag is a wonderful fit. Settle in, grab your hook, and let’s make something beautiful.

What Is the Mosu Bag?

The name “Mosu” comes from a style of weave that creates a dense, slightly raised surface with a woven appearance. In the crochet world, this look is most often achieved using the linen stitch (also called the woven stitch or moss stitch by some makers), which alternates single crochets with chain spaces in a way that produces a fabric that looks almost knitted or hand-woven.

The result is a bag that feels firm and structured without needing a stiff liner — the stitch itself holds the shape. The Mosu bag typically features a rectangular or slightly trapezoid body, two sturdy handles, and an open top that makes it easy to toss in your wallet, keys, a book, and still have room for a bouquet of flowers you pick up on the way home. It’s the kind of bag that looks like it came from a boutique but costs very little to make if you already have a decent stash of cotton yarn at home.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you start, gather your supplies. Having everything on hand means you won’t need to stop mid-row to hunt for a stitch marker.

Yarn: You’ll want approximately 400–500 yards of worsted weight (size 4) cotton yarn. Cotton is the preferred choice for this bag because it’s durable, holds its structure over time, and gives that clean, crisp look that makes the linen stitch really pop. 100% cotton or a cotton-blend both work well. Choose a solid or semi-solid color if you want the texture to show off — variegated yarns can obscure the woven look of the stitch pattern.

Hook: A 5.0 mm (H/8) crochet hook works well with most worsted weight cotton. If your tension runs tight, go up to a 5.5 mm. If it runs loose, drop to a 4.5 mm. The fabric should feel firm but still have a little give.

Notions: You’ll need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and at least four stitch markers. Optional but helpful: a row counter (or just your phone’s notes app), and a small piece of cardboard for blocking if desired.

Finished size: Approximately 13 inches wide by 11 inches tall (body only), with handles adding about 10 inches of height. This makes a medium-to-large tote.

Gauge

Gauge matters more for bags than for many other crochet projects because you want the fabric to be dense enough not to stretch out under the weight of your belongings.

In linen stitch: 16 stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches square using a 5.0 mm hook and worsted weight cotton.

Make a small swatch before you begin and wash it the way you plan to wash the finished bag. Cotton can shrink slightly, and knowing your gauge beforehand will save you from a bag that ends up too small or droops at the bottom.

Understanding the Linen Stitch (Mosu Stitch)

The linen stitch is the foundation of this entire pattern, so spend a few minutes getting comfortable with it before jumping into the bag itself.

The stitch alternates between a single crochet worked into a stitch and a chain-1 skipping the next stitch, then repeats. On the return row, you work single crochets into the chain-1 spaces from the previous row and chain-1 over the single crochets. This offset creates that woven, brick-like texture.

Basic linen stitch (worked flat):

Row 1 (foundation): Chain an even number of stitches. Single crochet in the 2nd chain from hook. Chain 1, skip 1 chain, single crochet in the next chain. Repeat to end. Turn.

Row 2: Chain 1, single crochet in the first chain-1 space. Chain 1, single crochet in the next chain-1 space. Repeat to the last stitch, single crochet in the turning chain space. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 for the pattern.

A few important notes: the chain-1 at the beginning of each row does NOT count as a stitch. Work your first single crochet into the first stitch (or space) of the row, not into the turning chain. This keeps your edges clean and even.

Pattern: Mosu Bag

Abbreviations

ch — chain
sc — single crochet
ch-1 sp — chain-1 space
sl st — slip stitch
st(s) — stitch(es)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
rep — repeat

Part One: The Bag Body

The body of the bag is worked flat in two identical panels, then joined along the sides and bottom.

Foundation Chain: Chain 54.

Row 1 (RS): Single crochet in the 2nd chain from hook. (Ch 1, skip 1, sc in next ch) repeat to end. You will have 27 sc and 26 ch-1 spaces. Turn. (53 stitches total across the row)

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc in first sc. (Ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp) repeat across, ending with sc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 3 onward: Repeat Row 2.

Continue in this linen stitch pattern until the panel measures 11 inches from the foundation chain. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Make a second panel identical to the first.

Part Two: The Base

For a flat, reinforced bottom, work the base separately and sew it to the bottom edge of each panel.

Foundation Chain: Chain 54.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (53 sc) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until the base measures 4 inches wide. This creates a sturdy, solid-stitch base that supports the weight of the bag’s contents without stretching.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Part Three: Joining the Panels

Place the two panels with wrong sides facing each other. Using your yarn needle and the long tail left from one panel, whipstitch or single crochet through both layers along one side edge. Repeat for the other side edge.

To attach the base, pin it to the bottom edges of both panels. The base should align evenly with the bottom of both panels, forming a box shape. Whipstitch along all four edges of the base, connecting it securely to both panels. This creates a bag with a flat bottom that stands up on its own — a practical detail that makes a real difference when you’re trying to set your bag down without everything spilling.

Turn the bag right side out and gently press the corners with your fingers (or steam block lightly) to make them crisp and square.

Part Four: The Edging

Before adding handles, work a clean border around the top opening.

Join yarn at any point along the top edge. Work one round of single crochet evenly around the entire opening, placing stitches approximately every row end along the side edges and directly into stitches along the top row. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc.

Work a second round of sc. Slip stitch to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

This edging stabilizes the top of the bag and gives the handles something firm to attach to.

Part Five: The Handles

The handles are worked flat and sewn on. You can also work them in the round for a rounder cord-like handle — both options are given below.

Flat Handle:

Chain 8.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (7 sc) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until the handle measures 22 inches. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Fold the handle lengthwise so it’s a tidy, firm strip and whipstitch the long edges together using the tail for a cleaner finish.

Round Handle (cord style):

Chain 4. Join with a sl st to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Do not join; work in a continuous spiral.

Continue working sc into each stitch around until the cord measures 22 inches. Fasten off.

Make two handles using either method.

Attaching the Handles:

Fold each end of a handle approximately 1.5 inches under itself to create a tab. Position the handles on the front and back panels symmetrically — typically about 3.5 inches in from each side edge and centered vertically on the top edging. Pin in place.

Using your yarn needle and a length of yarn, sew each handle tab to the bag with a box stitch: sew a rectangle, then an X inside it. This is the same technique used on commercial bags and is extremely strong. Repeat for all four attachment points.

Finishing Touches

Once your handles are attached, weave in any remaining ends securely. Tug on the seams gently to make sure everything is tight and nothing is coming loose.

If you want to give the bag a little extra structure, cut a piece of plastic canvas or thin foam to fit the base and slip it inside. This keeps the flat bottom truly flat and prevents the bag from collapsing inward when it’s not full.

For a different look, you can add a simple tassel or pom-pom to one of the handle attachment points, or work a row of reverse single crochet (crab stitch) along the top edging for a rope-like finish that’s both decorative and functional.

Tips for Success

The linen stitch can pull slightly tighter than regular single crochet, which is actually a benefit here since it adds structure. But if your fabric is coming out stiff rather than just firm, go up half a hook size and see if that improves the drape.

Cotton yarn can be a little rough on your hands during a long session. Taking breaks and keeping hand lotion nearby goes a long way. Some makers also prefer to work with a cotton-acrylic blend, which is a bit softer and more forgiving on the hook.

Keep your tension as consistent as possible throughout. Because the linen stitch is very regular and orderly, uneven tension shows up more visibly than it does in textured stitches like bobbles or shells. If you’re finding your tension drifting, try consciously pulling each chain to the same length and each single crochet to the same height.

Block your finished bag by dampening it with a spray bottle and pinning it to your measurements on a foam mat. Let it dry completely before removing the pins. Cotton responds beautifully to wet or steam blocking and the difference it makes in the final appearance is remarkable.

Customizing Your Mosu Bag

One of the great joys of making your own bags is the ability to tailor the pattern to exactly what you need.

For a smaller clutch or market pouch, reduce the foundation chain to 38 and shorten the panels to 7 inches. Use the same flat handle style but reduce the handle length to 14 inches.

For a large beach tote, extend the foundation chain to 70 and work the panels to 14 inches tall. Use a slightly chunkier yarn (a bulky weight with a 6.0 mm hook) and increase the handle length to 26 inches for an over-the-shoulder fit.

You can also work the entire bag body in the round rather than in flat panels if you prefer not to seam. To do this, chain your foundation and join into a ring, then work the linen stitch in continuous rounds. Note that working in the round shifts the stitch offset slightly, so your texture will look subtly different from the flat version — both are beautiful.

Adding a simple drawstring to the top opening is another popular modification. Before working the edging rounds, make a row of evenly spaced chain-2 eyelets by working (ch 2, skip 1 sc) around the top, then single crocheting into those spaces on the next round. Thread a length of braided cord or i-cord through the eyelets for a cinched top.

Why Crochet Your Own Bag?

There’s something uniquely satisfying about carrying a bag you made with your own hands. Unlike knit or purchased fabric bags, a crocheted cotton tote in the linen stitch is remarkably durable — the interlocked structure means it won’t unravel from a snag the way knitting might, and it gets softer and more supple with every wash without losing its shape.

The Mosu bag pattern has become a favorite in the crochet community partly because of its modern aesthetic. It doesn’t look “crafty” in the way some handmade bags can — it looks intentional, structured, and polished, which means people often can’t tell it was handmade until they ask. That’s a special kind of compliment for any maker.

From a practical standpoint, making your own tote means you choose exactly the size, color, and material. You can match it to an outfit, make one in your favorite team’s colors, create a set of produce bags in the same stitch at a miniature scale, or gift a custom bag to someone who would never buy one for themselves but lights up when they receive it.

Caring for Your Mosu Bag

Wash your finished bag in cold water on a gentle cycle, or hand wash it in a basin with a drop of gentle soap. Reshape it while damp and lay flat to dry or hang it by one handle from a shower rod. Avoid putting it in the dryer, as high heat can cause cotton to shrink unevenly and may distort the shape.

With proper care, a well-made cotton Mosu bag can last for years of daily use. Many makers report that their bags actually get better with age as the cotton softens and the texture becomes even more pronounced.

A Note on Sharing Your Work

If you make this pattern, consider sharing a photo of your finished bag with the crochet community online. Whether you post on Instagram, Pinterest, or in one of the many crochet groups on Facebook, seeing finished objects inspires other makers to try new things and keeps free patterns like this one visible and loved. Tag your work and leave a comment for other crafters who are mid-project and looking for encouragement.

Patterns stay alive because people make them, share them, and adapt them. Your version of the Mosu bag — your color choice, your handle variation, your little personal touches — adds something new to the tradition every time.

Happy hooking, and enjoy every stitch of this one. It really is as satisfying to make as it looks.