Mesh Laundry Bag Crochet Pattern: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide
If you’ve been searching for a practical crochet project that you’ll actually use every single day, a mesh laundry bag might be exactly what you need. This pattern is perfect for beginners who are ready to move beyond dishcloths and scarves, and it’s equally satisfying for experienced crocheters who love functional handmade items. By the end of this guide, you’ll have a sturdy, stretchy, and beautiful mesh laundry bag that can handle everything from delicate lingerie to everyday clothes — and you’ll have learned a few new techniques along the way.
Let’s dive into everything you need to know, from materials and gauge to stitch-by-stitch instructions and finishing tips.
Why Crochet a Mesh Laundry Bag?
Before we get into the pattern itself, it’s worth talking about why a crocheted mesh laundry bag is worth your time. Store-bought laundry bags are almost always made from thin, synthetic netting that tears easily, gets tangled in the wash, and breaks at the zipper after a few months. A hand-crocheted bag, on the other hand, is built to last. You control the yarn, the stitch density, and the size, which means you can customize it perfectly for your needs.
A mesh laundry bag made from cotton yarn is machine washable, naturally breathable, and gentle on fabrics. The open mesh structure lets water and detergent circulate freely, so your clothes actually get clean while still being protected. It’s also an eco-friendly alternative to single-use mesh bags or plastic lingerie protectors.
Beyond function, there’s something genuinely satisfying about pulling a handmade bag out of the washing machine and knowing you made it yourself. This project makes a wonderful gift for college students, newlyweds, or anyone who does their own laundry — which is to say, pretty much everyone.
Materials You’ll Need
Getting your materials together before you start crocheting saves a lot of frustration. Here’s exactly what you’ll need for this pattern.
Yarn: Choose a cotton or cotton-blend yarn in a worsted or DK weight. Cotton is the best choice for laundry bags because it’s durable, washable, and holds its shape well. Avoid acrylic for this project since it can stretch out of shape when wet and doesn’t breathe as well. A single skein of 400 yards will typically be enough for a medium-sized bag, but grab two if you want to make a larger one.
Hook: A 5.0 mm (H/8) crochet hook works beautifully with worsted weight cotton. If you’re using DK weight yarn, drop down to a 4.5 mm (G/6) hook. The key is to keep your mesh open and airy rather than tight and dense, so don’t be afraid to size up a hook if your tension runs tight.
Drawstring: You’ll need about 60 inches of cord for the drawstring closure. You can use cotton rope, paracord, ribbon, leather cord, or even a long chain made from the same yarn. A cord thickness of around 5 mm works well for easy pulling.
Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, and a button or toggle if you want to add one to the drawstring for a more secure closure.
Gauge and Sizing
For this pattern, gauge is less critical than it would be for a garment, but it still matters for getting the right size and mesh openness. Aim for approximately 14 stitches and 8 rows to equal 4 inches in the mesh pattern using a 5.0 mm hook and worsted weight cotton.
The finished bag in this pattern measures approximately 14 inches wide by 16 inches tall (before the drawstring casing), which is a versatile medium size — large enough for a full load of delicates or a week’s worth of a child’s clothes, but not so big that it becomes unwieldy. At the end of the pattern, you’ll find notes on how to adjust the size up or down to suit your needs.
Understanding the Mesh Stitch
The mesh pattern used in this bag is sometimes called a filet mesh, chain mesh, or open mesh stitch. It’s built on a simple foundation of chain spaces and single crochet or double crochet stitches, and it creates that classic open, net-like fabric that lets air and water pass through freely.
If you haven’t worked mesh stitches before, don’t worry. The basic concept is straightforward: instead of working into every stitch, you skip stitches and work into chain spaces, creating gaps in the fabric. The repeat is easy to memorize, and you’ll find your rhythm quickly.
For this pattern, we’re using a chain-2 mesh worked in double crochet, which creates generous, open spaces ideal for a laundry bag. The double crochet gives the mesh more height and stretch compared to a single crochet mesh, making the bag flexible enough to accommodate different loads.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
dc — double crochet
ch-2 sp — chain-2 space
sk — skip
rep — repeat
sp — space
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
st — stitch
The Pattern
Bag Body
This bag is worked in the round from the bottom up, which means you’ll have no side seams to sew and the bag will be one continuous tube. The bottom is worked flat first, then joined and worked upward in rounds.
Foundation Row (Bottom of Bag):
Chain 51. (This gives you 25 mesh repeats plus a turning chain.)
Row 1: Dc in the 5th chain from the hook (the skipped chains count as dc plus ch-2), ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch; repeat from across. You will have 17 dc and 16 ch-2 spaces. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as dc plus ch 2), turn, dc in first ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in next ch-2 sp; repeat from across, ending with dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn.
Rows 3 through 5: Repeat Row 2. At the end of Row 5, do not turn. You now have a flat rectangle for the bottom of the bag.
Joining to Work in the Round:
After your last row of the bottom panel, rotate your work 90 degrees to begin working along the long side edge. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds.
Round 1 (Sides Begin): Ch 5, work dc evenly along the side of the bottom panel, spacing your stitches to maintain the mesh look. Then work across the foundation chain edge in the same mesh pattern you established, work up the remaining long side, and join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning ch-5.
The goal here is to work continuously around the perimeter of the rectangle, picking up stitches along the side edges and the foundation chain to create a seamless tube. Don’t worry if this joining round feels a little awkward — it gets easier with practice, and the finished bag will look clean and professional.
Working the Sides in the Round:
Round 2: Ch 5, dc in same ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in next ch-2 sp; repeat from around, join with sl st to top of beginning ch.
Continue working Round 2 as established for approximately 28 to 32 rounds, or until the bag body measures about 14 to 16 inches tall. The mesh is stretchy, so err on the side of a little shorter — the bag will expand under the weight of laundry.
Tip: If you lose track of your round count, place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round and move it up as you go. Some crocheters also find it helpful to count mesh spaces around the round periodically to make sure they haven’t accidentally increased or decreased.
Drawstring Casing
Once the bag body is the height you want, it’s time to create the drawstring casing. This is a solid band at the top of the bag through which you’ll thread your cord. The contrast between the open mesh body and the solid casing gives the bag a polished, intentional look.
Casing Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc and 2 dc in each ch-2 sp around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. You should have a solid round of double crochet now.
Casing Round 2: Ch 3, dc in each dc around. Join with sl st.
Casing Round 3: Repeat Casing Round 2.
Casing Round 4: Ch 1, sc in each dc around. Join with sl st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for weaving in.
You now have a firm, four-row casing at the top of the bag. This band is sturdy enough to hold the drawstring in place without the cord slipping or the casing stretching out of shape over time.
Adding the Drawstring
Thread your cord, ribbon, or rope onto a large blunt-tipped needle or a safety pin, which makes it much easier to weave through the casing. Insert the needle from the outside of the bag through one of the gaps between stitches in the second row of the casing. Weave the cord in and out around the entire casing, going in and out through the stitch gaps as you go.
When you’ve come all the way around, bring both ends of the cord out through the same opening. Knot the ends together securely, or thread them through a wooden toggle or button before knotting for an extra-secure closure and a beautiful finished look.
If you prefer a two-cord drawstring (where you pull from both sides), cut two pieces of cord, each about 60 inches long. Thread the first cord all the way around the casing and back out on the same side. Thread the second cord through from the other side and back out on that side. Pull each cord from its respective side to close the bag.
Finishing Touches
Weave in all your ends carefully using a yarn needle, working the tail through several stitches in different directions to anchor it securely. Cotton yarn can be a little slippery compared to wool, so taking the time to weave ends in well will prevent them from working loose in the wash.
Block your bag if you want it to look especially neat and professional. Wet blocking cotton works wonderfully — simply dampen the bag, gently shape it to your desired dimensions, and let it dry flat. Blocking evens out any uneven tension in the mesh and gives the finished piece a polished appearance.
Sizing Variations
One of the best things about this pattern is how easy it is to resize. Here’s how to adjust for different needs.
For a small bag (ideal for a single outfit or delicate items like bras and stockings), reduce your foundation chain to 31 stitches and work the body for about 18 to 20 rounds. This gives you a bag roughly 9 inches wide by 11 inches tall.
For a large bag (great for beach towels, baby blankets, or a family’s weekly laundry), start with a foundation chain of 71 stitches and work the body for 36 to 40 rounds. The finished bag will be approximately 18 to 20 inches wide and 18 to 20 inches tall — roomy enough for a substantial load.
For a long, narrow bag (excellent for storing yoga mats, sleeping bag liners, or sports equipment), keep the foundation chain around 31 stitches but work the body for 50 to 60 rounds, creating a tall, slim tube.
The mesh pattern repeats over every 3 stitches, so when adjusting your foundation chain, always use a multiple of 3 plus 3 additional chains for the turning chain at the beginning.
Yarn Color and Design Ideas
While a neutral cotton in natural white, soft gray, or warm tan is classic and practical (it won’t transfer dye onto your laundry), this pattern is also a wonderful canvas for color. A single bold color like coral, cobalt blue, or sage green makes a cheerful and practical addition to any bathroom. Striped bags — worked by switching yarn at the beginning of a round — are especially fun and are a great way to use up partial skeins from your stash.
You can also add a monogram or initial to the solid casing at the top of the bag using surface slip stitch embroidery or a small sewn-on patch. This is particularly nice if you’re making bags as gifts or if multiple family members share a laundry area and need to tell their bags apart.
Care Instructions for Your Finished Bag
The great news is that a cotton mesh laundry bag is as easy to care for as it is to make. Machine wash in cold or warm water on a gentle cycle. Lay flat to dry or tumble dry on low heat — high heat can shrink cotton, especially after the first few washes, so low and slow is the way to go. The bag can also be washed inside itself, which is a satisfying little trick.
Over time, cotton softens beautifully with washing, and the mesh will develop a lovely, lived-in drape that only gets better with use.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
If your mesh is pulling too tight and the holes are closing up, try going up one hook size or consciously loosening your tension on the chain-2 portions of each row.
If your bag is curling at the sides rather than lying flat, this is normal for flat crochet pieces and will resolve itself once the bag is joined in the round and worked upward. Blocking also helps tremendously.
If your round count is drifting and the bag seems to be spiraling rather than stacking evenly, make sure you’re consistently joining at the end of each round with a slip stitch and starting each new round with the correct number of turning chains.
If your drawstring won’t slide smoothly, try threading it through more loosely or switching to a cord with a slicker surface, such as nylon cord or satin ribbon.
Final Thoughts
A mesh laundry bag crochet pattern like this one sits in a sweet spot that few projects manage to hit: it’s genuinely useful, it’s approachable for intermediate beginners, it works up fairly quickly (most crocheters can complete one in a weekend), and it makes a thoughtful and practical handmade gift. Once you’ve made one, you’ll find yourself wanting to make several more — different sizes for different purposes, different colors for different family members, a few extras to keep on hand for last-minute gift-giving.
The mesh stitch itself is one of those fundamental techniques that opens up a whole new world once you master it. From market bags and produce bags to beach totes and wine bottle holders, the same basic structure that makes this laundry bag work so beautifully applies to dozens of other projects you’ll want to explore.
So gather your cotton yarn, grab your hook, and cast on that foundation chain. Your future self — the one pulling a neatly protected load of delicates out of the washing machine — will absolutely thank you.
