Mesh Laundry Bag Crochet Pattern: A Complete Guide to Making Your Own
If you’ve ever pulled a delicate blouse out of the washing machine looking like it survived a tornado, you already understand why mesh laundry bags exist. These simple but brilliant little bags protect your clothes during the wash cycle, keeping bras from tangling, socks from escaping, and delicate fabrics from stretching or snagging. The good news? You don’t have to buy a flimsy plastic version from the dollar store. With just a few hours of crochet time and some basic materials, you can make a beautiful, durable, fully functional mesh laundry bag that will last for years.
This guide walks you through everything you need to know — from materials and hook sizes to step-by-step pattern instructions and helpful tips for customizing your bag. Whether you’re a beginner looking for a satisfying first project or an experienced crocheter wanting to add something practical to your handmade collection, this pattern is for you.
Why Crochet a Mesh Laundry Bag?
Before we dive into the pattern itself, it’s worth taking a moment to appreciate why handmade is so much better than store-bought in this case.
Most commercial mesh laundry bags are made from nylon or polyester netting. They do the job, but they’re often poorly constructed. The zippers break, the seams fray, and the mesh tears after heavy use. A crocheted mesh bag, on the other hand, is made in one continuous piece with no sewn seams to come apart. The open mesh structure allows water and detergent to flow freely through the bag while still protecting your garments. And because you control the yarn choice and bag size, you can tailor it exactly to what you need.
There’s also something undeniably satisfying about doing your laundry with something you made yourself. It turns a mundane chore into a small daily reminder of your own creativity.
Crocheted mesh bags are also eco-friendly. Using cotton yarn means you’re washing your clothes in a bag that’s natural, biodegradable, and free from the microplastics that synthetic laundry bags shed into the water supply with every wash. That’s a meaningful choice, and it costs you nothing extra.
Materials You’ll Need
Getting your materials right is the first step to a successful project. Here’s what you’ll need for a standard medium-sized mesh laundry bag, approximately 14 inches wide by 18 inches tall.
Yarn: 200 to 250 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn. Cotton is the best choice here because it’s durable, washable, and won’t stretch out of shape the way acrylic sometimes does. 100% cotton or a cotton-blend works well. Choose a light-colored yarn if you plan to use the bag for whites, or go bold with any color you love — the mesh structure looks beautiful in any shade. Popular brands for this project include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK Cotton, and Paintbox Simply Aran.
Crochet Hook: A 5mm (US size H/8) hook is ideal for worsted weight cotton. If you’re using DK weight yarn, drop down to a 4mm (US size G/6) hook. The key is that you want your stitches to be a bit looser than usual so water can flow through the finished fabric easily.
Notions:
A yarn needle for weaving in ends, a stitch marker to track your rounds, a pair of scissors, and a drawstring cord or ribbon for the bag’s closure. You can use a 30-inch length of cotton rope, nylon cord, or even a coordinating ribbon. Some crocheters crochet their own drawstring using a simple chain of about 60 inches.
That’s truly all you need. This is one of those projects that’s light on materials and big on results, which makes it perfect if you’re trying to crochet on a budget or use up cotton yarn from your stash.
Understanding the Stitch: The Chain Space Mesh
The magic of a crochet mesh bag is in the stitch pattern. Rather than creating a solid fabric, you’re creating an open lace-like grid of chain spaces and connecting stitches. The most common structure for a beginner-friendly mesh is a combination of chain spaces and single crochets or double crochets worked in a repeating pattern.
For this pattern, the foundation is a simple chain-2 mesh worked in the round. Each row creates a grid of open squares that allows water to pass through freely. Once you understand the rhythm of the stitch, it becomes almost meditative — you’ll find yourself moving through rows quickly while watching that beautiful open texture emerge.
If you’re new to crochet, a few terms you should know before starting:
Ch — chain stitch. The most basic stitch, made by pulling a loop of yarn through the loop already on your hook.
Sc — single crochet. A short, sturdy stitch. Insert your hook, pull up a loop, then pull through both loops on the hook.
Dc — double crochet. Taller than a single crochet. Yarn over first, insert hook, pull up a loop, pull through two loops, then pull through the remaining two loops.
Sl st — slip stitch. Used to join rounds. Insert hook, pull yarn through the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion.
Sp — space. Refers to the open chain space rather than a stitch.
Mesh Laundry Bag Crochet Pattern: Step by Step
Gauge
12 stitches and 8 rows = 4 inches in double crochet with worsted weight cotton and a 5mm hook. Gauge is flexible for this project since the mesh doesn’t need to be a specific tightness, but measuring your gauge will help you predict the finished size of your bag.
Finished Size
Approximately 14 inches wide by 18 inches tall (before drawstring), holding roughly a medium load of delicates comfortably.
The Base
The bag is worked from the bottom up, starting with a flat oval or circular base and then continuing upward in rounds to form the body.
Round 1 (Foundation Chain): Chain 25. Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across — 24 sc. Do not turn. Continue working around the other side of the foundation chain, placing 3 sc in the last stitch to turn the corner, then sc across the bottom of the chain back to the beginning. Place 3 sc in the first stitch to close the oval. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc. You should have approximately 54 stitches around the oval.
Rounds 2 and 3: Single crochet in each stitch around, increasing at each end of the oval to keep the base flat. Place 3 sc at each of the two curved ends of the oval. By Round 3, you should have approximately 66 stitches. Join with a slip stitch at the end of each round.
These three rounds create a flat, solid oval base that gives your bag a firm, stable bottom. The solid base keeps small items from poking through while still looking clean and intentional against the open mesh sides.
Beginning the Mesh Body
Now comes the fun part. You’ll transition from the solid base into the open mesh pattern that forms the body of the bag.
Round 4 (Transition Round): Chain 3 (counts as first dc), skip 1 stitch, double crochet in next stitch. Continue in this pattern — dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st — all the way around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the ch-3. This begins the open grid structure. You should have approximately 33 chain-1 spaces around.
Rounds 5 through 28 (Mesh Body): Chain 4, turn (or if you prefer to work without turning, simply slip stitch and chain up). Single crochet in the first chain-1 space, then chain 3. Continue working 1 sc in each chain-1 space with a chain 3 between each sc, all the way around. Join with a slip stitch to the base of the starting chain. This forms the classic chain-3 mesh that you’ll see in most lace mesh patterns.
Repeat Round 5 continuously for approximately 24 rounds or until your mesh body measures about 14 to 16 inches in height. The exact number of rounds will depend on your gauge, your hook size, and how tall you want your finished bag to be. A shorter bag works great for bras and small items; a taller bag is better for full loads of delicates.
The Drawstring Channel
Once your bag body has reached the desired height, you’ll work a final few rounds to create the drawstring casing at the top of the bag.
Round 29 (Transition to Drawstring Channel): Work one round of double crochet, placing a dc in each chain space and at each sc. This creates a solid row of stitches that anchors the top of the mesh and forms the base of the drawstring channel. Join with a slip stitch.
Rounds 30 and 31 (Drawstring Casing): Chain 3, double crochet in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch. These two solid rounds create the casing through which your drawstring will run.
Round 32 (Drawstring Holes): Chain 3, double crochet in the next 2 stitches, chain 2, skip 2 stitches, double crochet in the next 2 stitches, chain 2, skip 2 stitches. Repeat this sequence all the way around. Join with a slip stitch. This creates evenly spaced holes around the top of the bag for your drawstring.
Rounds 33 and 34: Chain 3, double crochet in each stitch and 2 dc in each chain-2 space around. Join. These final two rounds close up the top of the casing.
Finishing: Fasten off and weave in your ends using your yarn needle. Be thorough about this — loose ends can work their way out during washing.
Adding the Drawstring
Cut a length of cotton cord or ribbon to approximately 60 inches. Attach a safety pin to one end and thread it through the drawstring holes you created in Round 32, weaving it in and out all the way around the top of the bag. Knot the two ends together or tie them in a bow. Alternatively, you can use two shorter cords threaded from opposite sides so that pulling both ends cinches the bag closed evenly.
Customization Ideas
One of the best things about making your own crochet mesh laundry bag is how easy it is to adjust the pattern to suit your needs. Here are a few ways to make this project truly your own.
Change the size. For a small bag to hold a single bra or a pair of stockings, start with a shorter foundation chain (around 12 stitches) and work fewer rounds of mesh. For a large bag capable of holding a full load of delicates, extend your foundation chain to 35 or 40 stitches and work 35 or more mesh rounds.
Experiment with the mesh size. Using chain-4 spaces instead of chain-3 creates a more open, airy mesh that still protects garments while allowing maximum water flow. Tighter chain-2 spaces create a finer mesh that’s ideal for very small or delicate items like lingerie or baby socks.
Try different yarn weights. DK weight cotton creates a lighter, more flexible bag that’s great for lingerie. Bulky cotton gives you a sturdier bag better suited to heavier fabrics like jeans or towels. Just remember to adjust your hook size accordingly.
Add a label. If you’re making a set of mesh bags to give as a gift, crochet a small flat rectangle in solid single crochet and attach it to the outside of the bag. You can hand-stitch letters or use an iron-on label to indicate what goes inside.
Try a color-blocked design. Work the solid base in one color and the mesh body in another. Switch colors again for the drawstring casing. This looks especially striking in contrasting colors like navy and white or terracotta and cream.
Tips for Success
A few practical notes that will make this pattern go more smoothly and ensure your finished bag holds up beautifully in the wash.
Use pre-washed cotton yarn if possible, especially if you’re giving the bag as a gift or want to prevent any initial shrinkage. Many cotton yarns are pre-shrunk, but it’s worth checking the label.
When you wash your finished bag in the machine, put it through its first cycle empty. This helps any remaining dye set and lets you see if there’s any pilling or distortion before you trust it with your favorite lingerie.
Keep your tension consistent throughout the mesh body. Uneven tension in a mesh pattern is more visible than in a solid fabric, so it’s worth pausing occasionally to check that your chain spaces are all roughly the same size.
If you make a mistake in the mesh section, don’t panic. Tinking (undoing stitch by stitch) is easier in this pattern than you might expect because the chain spaces are loose and forgiving. Take it slow and you’ll be back on track quickly.
Store your finished bag in a dry place between uses. Even though cotton handles moisture beautifully, storing a damp bag bunched up can eventually lead to mildew, especially if your laundry room is humid.
Making Multiple Bags for a Complete Set
Once you’ve made one mesh laundry bag, you’ll almost certainly want to make more. Many people find it useful to have three or four bags in different sizes — one for bras and delicate lingerie, one for socks and small accessories, one for baby clothes or children’s delicates, and one larger bag for blouses and lightweight sweaters. Working up a full set takes only a weekend and makes a genuinely practical and thoughtful gift.
Consider crocheting each bag in a different color so you can easily identify what’s inside at a glance. A color system takes about thirty seconds to set up and will save you five minutes of squinting at bags in the laundry room every week. Practical magic.
Final Thoughts
A crocheted mesh laundry bag is one of those rare projects that manages to be quick, inexpensive, beginner-friendly, and genuinely useful all at once. You’ll spend a few hours with your hook and some cotton yarn, and you’ll end up with something that protects your clothes, reduces your reliance on plastic, and makes you feel a little more connected to the things you own.
The pattern itself is wonderfully flexible. Once you understand the basic mesh structure, you can scale it up or down, adjust the density, change the colors, and modify the shape to your heart’s content. It’s a great pattern to return to whenever you want a fast, satisfying make that doesn’t require hours of concentration.
Whether you’re crocheting for yourself or making a set to give away, this mesh laundry bag pattern delivers every time. Grab your cotton yarn, pick up your hook, and get started — your wardrobe will thank you.
