Market Bag Knitting Pattern (and Free Video Tutorial)
There is something deeply satisfying about knitting something you will actually use every single day. A market bag sits in that sweet spot between practical and beautiful — it stretches to hold a surprising amount of groceries, folds flat into your purse when empty, and looks charming enough that strangers at the farmers market will stop to ask where you got it. The answer, of course, is that you made it yourself.
This pattern is designed for knitters who have mastered the basics and are ready to tackle a project that feels rewarding without being overwhelming. If you can knit, purl, yarn over, and work a basic decrease, you have everything you need. The lace mesh construction is what gives the bag its stretch and its gorgeous open texture, and once you get the rhythm going, the rows fly by.
Whether you are stocking up on summer produce, heading to the beach with a towel and a good book, or just trying to cut down on single-use plastic at your weekly shop, this bag is going to become one of your most-reached-for makes.
Why Knit a Market Bag?
Before we get into the pattern itself, it is worth taking a moment to talk about why knitted market bags have become such a beloved project in the knitting community.
The environmental case is the obvious starting point. A well-made cotton market bag can replace hundreds of plastic bags over its lifetime. Knitted fabric is inherently sturdy when made with the right fiber, and a simple mesh bag can hold much more weight than you might expect. Unlike the thin, disposable bags that tear the moment you add a pineapple to the mix, a knitted bag made from cotton or hemp will genuinely last for years with minimal care.
But the appeal goes beyond sustainability. Knitted market bags are fast. Depending on your gauge and how much time you have to sit with your needles, you can finish one in a weekend. They make outstanding gifts — everyone needs one, they are one-size-fits-all, and they photograph beautifully for those who like to share their finished objects online. They also use a relatively small amount of yarn, which means they are a great stash-busting project or an excuse to try a single skein of something special you have been saving.
There is also the customization factor. Change the yarn weight and you change the drape and stretch. Change the colorway and you change the whole personality of the bag. The basic construction stays the same whether you choose a natural undyed cotton, a cheerful variegated yarn, or a crisp linen-cotton blend. The pattern adapts beautifully to all of them.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials sorted before you sit down to cast on will make the whole process smoother. Here is what you need for this market bag pattern.
Yarn: Approximately 200 to 250 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn. Pure cotton is the classic choice because it is washable, durable, and has just the right amount of non-stretch structure to hold a bag’s shape under load. That said, a cotton-linen blend or a cotton-bamboo blend will give you a slightly softer or silkier finish if you prefer it. Avoid wool for a bag you plan to use for groceries — it felts when wet and will not stand up to the kind of weekly washing a market bag needs. Popular choices among knitters include Paintbox Simply DK Cotton (you may need to hold it double for worsted weight), Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, and Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima.
Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) circular needles, 16 to 24 inches long, or a set of double-pointed needles if you prefer working small circumferences that way. The bag is worked in the round from the bottom up, so circular needles will be your most comfortable option.
Notions: A stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, and scissors. That is genuinely all you need.
Gauge: Approximately 16 stitches and 24 rounds over 4 inches in stockinette stitch with worsted weight cotton. Gauge is less critical for a bag than for a garment, but if your gauge is significantly tighter than this, your bag will come out smaller and stiffer. If it is significantly looser, the mesh holes will be larger and the bag may not hold smaller items securely. Swatch if you want to dial it in, or simply proceed and see how the finished object feels.
Finished Measurements
This pattern produces a bag with a body approximately 12 inches wide and 14 inches deep when laid flat and unstretched, with handles that sit comfortably over a shoulder or are long enough to carry in hand. The mesh fabric is stretchy, so the bag will expand considerably when loaded. It can comfortably hold a week’s worth of produce, a full baguette (a personal requirement for any self-respecting market bag), and still have room for a few extras.
Pattern Notes
The bag is worked from the bottom up, beginning with a small cast-on that forms the base, then increasing outward to create the body. Once the body is established, you work the mesh pattern in the round. The handles are worked as simple i-cord or knitted straps at the end.
A note on the mesh stitch: it is made up of yarn overs and k2tog decreases paired together so the stitch count stays constant. This combination is what gives the fabric its open, lacy look while keeping everything structurally sound. If you have never worked a yarn over before, the video tutorial linked below walks you through it slowly, stitch by stitch.
Abbreviations used in this pattern:
CO — cast on, K — knit, P — purl, YO — yarn over, K2tog — knit two together, SSK — slip slip knit, M1 — make one increase, PM — place marker, SM — slip marker, BO — bind off.
The Pattern
Step One: The Base
Using the long-tail cast-on method, CO 8 stitches onto double-pointed needles or the tip of your circular needle. Distribute evenly if using DPNs. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist, and PM to mark the beginning of the round.
Round 1: Knit all stitches.
Round 2: (K1, M1) repeat to end of round — 16 stitches.
Round 3: Knit all stitches.
Round 4: (K2, M1) repeat to end of round — 24 stitches.
Round 5: Knit all stitches.
Round 6: (K3, M1) repeat to end of round — 32 stitches.
Round 7: Knit all stitches.
Round 8: (K4, M1) repeat to end of round — 40 stitches.
Round 9: Knit all stitches.
Round 10: (K5, M1) repeat to end of round — 48 stitches.
Round 11: Knit all stitches.
Round 12: (K6, M1) repeat to end of round — 56 stitches.
Round 13: Knit all stitches.
Round 14: (K7, M1) repeat to end of round — 64 stitches.
Round 15: Knit all stitches.
Round 16: (K8, M1) repeat to end of round — 72 stitches.
You should have 72 stitches on your needles and a small, flat circular base that looks a bit like a coaster. This is the foundation of your bag.
Step Two: The Sides
Work 4 rounds in plain stockinette (knit every round) to create a small vertical wall at the base. This gives the bag a bit more structure at the bottom so it sits well when you set it down.
Step Three: The Mesh Body
Now comes the fun part. The mesh pattern is simple and repetitive, and you will find yourself memorizing it after just a few repeats.
Mesh Pattern (worked over an even number of stitches, repeat every 2 rounds):
Round A: (YO, K2tog) repeat to end of round.
Round B: Knit all stitches.
Repeat Rounds A and B until the body of the bag measures approximately 13 to 14 inches from the base, or until you reach your desired depth. Remember that the cotton mesh will stretch with use, so it is better to err slightly shorter than longer.
Step Four: The Top Edge
Work 4 rounds of plain knit stitches to create a clean, stable top edge that mirrors the base.
Step Five: The Handles
Divide your 72 stitches in half — 36 stitches for the front of the bag and 36 stitches for the back.
For each handle, you will work back and forth in rows rather than in the round.
With the right side facing, identify the center 10 stitches of the front 36. You will be working these 10 stitches back and forth to create the handle.
Row 1 (RS): K10.
Row 2 (WS): P10.
Repeat these two rows until the handle measures approximately 10 to 12 inches, or until it is long enough to comfortably slip over your shoulder or carry in hand.
Bind off these 10 stitches.
Rejoin yarn to the center 10 stitches of the back 36 and work the second handle in exactly the same way.
Once both handles are bound off, pick up and knit 1 stitch per row along the side edges of each handle gap to close the sides of the bag neatly. Bind off these stitches. Alternatively, you can seam the sides closed using mattress stitch if you prefer.
Weave in all ends securely. Cotton has a tendency to work its way loose over time, so take a little extra care here and weave each tail in two directions.
Free Video Tutorial
If any part of the written pattern has left you puzzling over your needles, the free video tutorial is here to help. The tutorial walks through every section of this pattern in real time, including a close-up demonstration of the yarn over mesh stitch, tips for working the circular increase rounds on double-pointed needles, and a walkthrough of the handle construction. There is also a segment on finishing and weaving in ends so your bag looks clean and polished from every angle.
The video is filmed with a plain background and good lighting so you can see exactly what is happening with the stitches. It is designed to be paused and replayed as many times as you need, and the chapters are clearly labeled so you can jump directly to the section you need help with. Knitting along with a video tutorial while following a written pattern is one of the best ways to lock in a new technique, and the combination of written instructions and visual demonstration means almost any knitter can work through this project with confidence.
Tips for Success
Tension and cotton: Cotton yarn does not have the elasticity of wool, which means it shows tension inconsistencies more readily. If your gauge feels uneven at first, keep going — most knitters find that their tension evens out once they have settled into the rhythm of the mesh pattern. Blocking the finished bag will smooth out any minor unevenness beautifully.
Blocking: Speaking of blocking, a cotton bag benefits enormously from a good wet block. Once you have finished knitting, soak the bag in cool water for about 20 minutes, gently press out the excess water (do not wring), and lay it flat or stuff it with plastic bags to shape it. Allow it to dry completely. The mesh will open up, the stitches will relax and even out, and the bag will look genuinely finished in a way that fresh-off-the-needles cotton sometimes does not.
Customizing the size: This pattern is straightforward to scale. More increase rounds at the base will give you a wider bag. More mesh rows will give you a deeper bag. More stitches in the handle will give you a wider strap. Knitting really is forgiving in this way — once you understand the construction logic, you can adjust freely.
Choosing yarn color: Lighter colors show the mesh structure beautifully, which is worth considering if you love the look of the open lace. Deeper or more saturated colors give the bag a bolder, more graphic quality. Variegated yarns create a kind of natural randomness in the mesh that many knitters find charming, though self-striping yarns can create a slightly chaotic visual effect in the mesh pattern. Solid and semi-solid colors are the most forgiving and predictable choices.
Caring for your bag: Most cotton yarns are machine washable on a gentle or delicate cycle, but check the label of your specific yarn to be sure. Lay flat to dry rather than machine drying, which can cause cotton to shrink slightly. After washing and drying, your bag will look practically new and be ready for another round of market trips.
Making It Your Own
Once you have knitted this bag once and understand how it works, there are many small variations worth exploring. You might try working the entire body in a simple seed stitch or garter stitch rather than mesh, which creates a denser fabric with less stretch but a lovely rustic texture. You might work stripes by alternating two colors every few rounds — this works particularly well with the mesh section where the yarn-over holes let color from the round below peek through.
Some knitters add a simple crochet border around the top edge or along the handles for extra durability and a slightly more finished look. Others knit a second bag in a coordinating color and stitch them together along the sides to create a double-layered, extra-sturdy version. The basic recipe is endlessly adaptable, and that flexibility is part of what makes it such a beloved project for beginners and experienced knitters alike.
You might also experiment with the handle length. A shorter handle, around 6 to 8 inches, creates a hand-carry bag with a more structured feel. A longer handle, 14 inches or more, functions as a proper shoulder bag. Some knitters make two handles of different lengths and attach them both to create a bag that works both ways.
Share Your Finished Bag
One of the great joys of the knitting community is sharing finished objects — and this is exactly the kind of project that photographs beautifully. If you make this bag, consider sharing it online. Seeing someone else’s version of a pattern you have knitted yourself is one of the small pleasures of being part of this community, and beginners especially benefit from seeing the range of outcomes possible with a single pattern.
Tag your photos with the pattern name and connect with other knitters who have made it. The variations you see will inspire your next version, and your version will inspire someone else to pick up their needles and try.
Happy knitting. May your gauge be even, your yarn never tangle, and your market bag be full of good things.
